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  • We've been tagging and tracking fish for literally

  • decades. Over those years is a distinct pattern that

  • repeats and repeats.

  • But in the last several years, that pattern is no

  • longer there.

  • This is Rick Goche.

  • He's been fishing since he was 13.

  • Today he's the owner of Sacred Sea Tuna, a family

  • owned albacore canned tuna business.

  • Rick is just a small part of the massive $40 billion

  • tuna industry in its latest tracking from NOAA.

  • The US imported over 637 million pounds of tuna in

  • 2020. Nearly 71% of that was canned.

  • Over the course of the 40 plus years I've been in the

  • fishing industry, we've had to learn to be more

  • adaptable and more nimble in our response to new

  • technologies, new markets, changes in global markets.

  • The industry is largely made up of multinational

  • conglomerates, with large fleets of suppliers sourcing

  • tuna for household names like chicken of the sea,

  • owned by Thai Union Group, the largest seafood producer

  • in the world.

  • At the union is around 4 to $4.5 billion, and it has

  • been growing quite nicely over the past two years.

  • But despite its vast scale, the canned tuna industry has

  • faced some serious challenges since 2000.

  • Per capita consumption has dropped by more than 45%, a

  • decline mainly triggered by shifting consumer

  • preferences. But there are also some other challenges,

  • like years of consolidation, stifling

  • competition, questions around sustainability and

  • transparency, and a price fixing scandal lasting

  • nearly a decade.

  • The CEO of Bumblebee ended up getting indicted and then

  • convicted for price fixing.

  • All sorts of things going on.

  • This is a $40 billion industry so unsustainable,

  • illegal, unregulated and unreported fishing is a

  • major concern.

  • Cnbc visited chicken of the seas packaging facility in

  • Lyons, Georgia, and Wild Planet Tuna in

  • Mckinleyville, California, to get a better idea of the

  • inner workings of the $40 billion tuna industry.

  • Over 100 miles from the nearest ocean.

  • In the heart of Georgia's countryside lies one of

  • America's largest canned tuna processing facilities.

  • Chicken of the sea.

  • I'm standing in front of our giant drive in freezer.

  • These frozen pallets are brought in through the Port

  • of Savannah, where we receive them from processing

  • plants all over the.

  • Most of our fish are processed in Thailand, but

  • we also receive fish processed from other areas

  • of the world.

  • Most major tuna brands, like chicken of the Sea and Wild

  • Planet do not have their own dedicated fishing

  • fleets. Instead, fishing is outsourced to third party

  • suppliers.

  • We don't have any, any, any boats, any fishing boats on

  • this one. So we are buying all our fish from third

  • party suppliers and we don't control them at all.

  • Of course we are significant because we are

  • producing maybe one can out of 4 or 5 within the within

  • the world.

  • Canned tuna has been a staple in American pantries

  • for years, and for good reason.

  • It's cheap and loaded with protein.

  • The process of how it gets into American homes looks

  • something like this.

  • Thai Union and other similar entities primarily

  • gather tuna from global fishing fleets and tuna rich

  • zones. Fishing vessels spend days or even weeks

  • catching fish before returning to ports.

  • Some even prolong their time at sea using

  • transshipment, a process of where they offload their

  • catch to a carrier ship, resupply and head back out

  • for more. Once caught, the tuna is prepped for

  • processing, and that's in Thailand, where the tuna is

  • frozen, and from there it's transported to places like

  • Lyons, Georgia. The tuna shipped from Thailand is

  • then thought at chicken of the seas canning facility to

  • about 38 degrees.

  • It's then unwrapped from its plastic casing, cut to

  • size for cans filled with brine, oil or water.

  • Then pressure cooked in its retort process, where about

  • 18,000 cans are cooked at a time.

  • Once the tuna is done cooking, it's then ready for

  • shipping. But there are other ways to prepare canned

  • tuna for the masses.

  • Just take Wild Planet's approach.

  • So I began canning tuna in 1999 with just pure tuna in

  • the can with only salt, no water or oil, and that cooks

  • in the can. Exactly the same as my Portuguese family

  • method that we had done for decades before, that

  • conventional tuna processing is done with pre

  • cooking of the tuna in ovens and then cleaning the

  • tuna once it's cooked, and the meat is firm and easy to

  • clean, and then it's packed in the can but it's lost its

  • moisture. And so they have to add water or oil and then

  • cook it again in the sterilization process.

  • Catching tuna is exceptionally challenging,

  • even for the largest tuna processor and exporter, Thai

  • Union Group, which brought in $4.3 billion in 2022.

  • Vessel costs are rising, import tariffs are pricey,

  • oil prices are constantly fluctuating, and tuna

  • migration patterns are becoming unpredictable.

  • When you head out on the open water and you are

  • trying to catch something that may or may not be there

  • and trying to follow it around the globe, and then

  • get it back to your point of origin, to then have it

  • processed, to then ship it out.

  • It's just a much more dynamic space, you know,

  • it's not a high margin business.

  • Thai Union brought over $980 million in revenue and a 3%

  • profit margin in the second quarter of 2023.

  • Overall, our operating margin stands around four

  • five 6% during the good year.

  • If you're not performing well, if you're not

  • efficient in your operations, then you will

  • lose some ground.

  • Despite being a tight margin industry, tuna companies

  • like Thai Union have faced dwindling US consumption

  • rates for decades, plateauing from 2016 to

  • 2018.

  • Call it 2016 to 2018, there was an oversupply of tuna

  • simply because the trends weren't in the consumption

  • favorability. But since then and now, as it's

  • continued to expect to grow at a 5% rate, there's every

  • likelihood that tuna prices will continue to fluctuate

  • and go up as a result of the demand.

  • But in 2020 there was high demand for tuna.

  • A big part of that surge was the pandemic, as

  • consumers flocked to this affordable, protein packed

  • staple. Pushing consumption rates to its highest since

  • 2011. That translated to a near 19% profit spike for

  • Thai union in 2020, with consumption growing about

  • 18% from the previous year.

  • Us consumption stabilized, while Thai Union's profits

  • saw record highs.

  • But in 2021, Tuna's consumption rates dropped

  • again and consequently Thai Union's profits went down by

  • about 20% from 2021 to 2022.

  • Due to its unique positioning, Thai Union has

  • protected itself from serious downturns.

  • The company began as a processor and exporter of

  • canned tuna in the 1970s, but over the last 46 years,

  • the conglomerate steadily invested in acquired tuna

  • brands in order to compete in new markets.

  • So very, very rapid growth over the first 30 years, I

  • would say the past ten years.

  • I think we have been facing with a more mature market.

  • So the challenge we are facing is really how can we

  • attract, again, some new consumers in the category.

  • The tuna industry has experienced significant

  • consolidation, all of which has had implications on

  • market control and pricing.

  • In 2014, chicken of the sea pursued a $1.5 billion deal

  • to acquire Bumblebee, but that never materialized.

  • Instead, it opened up a Pandora's box of legal woes

  • for the top US tuna brands as the DOJ unmasked a price

  • fixing scandal.

  • There was a huge lawsuit in 2015 where Bumblebee and

  • Starkist and Chicken of the sea were thought to be in

  • collusion. There is a lot of competition in the space,

  • but I think it's one of those rare situations where

  • there's also competition.

  • At the time.

  • The three largest companies, Bumblebee,

  • Starkist and Chicken of the sea, collectively controlled

  • 80% of the US market.

  • They were accused of conspiring to increase tuna

  • prices, leading to lawsuits, substantial fines

  • and imprisonment.

  • Bumblebee and Starkist pleaded guilty and agreeing

  • to fines of 25 and $100 million, respectively.

  • In September of 2017, Thai Union acknowledged the fact

  • that chicken of the sea had taken on the role of

  • whistleblower and therefore avoiding direct penalties.

  • Nonetheless, the company didn't emerge unscathed.

  • It took on settlements approximately $39.5 million

  • and went through a comprehensive overhaul of

  • policies and leadership structure.

  • First of all, we have been changing many people in the

  • top management and in the in the in the executives

  • also. Plus, we have been launching also a very strict

  • compliance and training program for, again for the

  • top management, the executives and also for the

  • whole sales force.

  • We made it very clear that there cannot be any

  • discussion at all with competitors, even friendly

  • discussions. You cannot have a friend with your

  • competitors because it's too dangerous and too risky.

  • On this one, the.

  • Facts of the scandal trickled into consumers as

  • well. The DOJ estimated $600 million in losses for

  • both customers and retail and business partners.

  • The former CEO of Bumblebee and the scandals alleged

  • ringleader, was sentenced to 40 months in prison less

  • than a year later. Bumblebee was acquired by

  • Taiwanese FKF for roughly $928 million.

  • The pandemic caused serious supply chain backlogs

  • entering 2023.

  • Inflation increased operational costs because.

  • We had to do some some price increase, and the whole

  • industry has been doing some price increase to cope

  • with the inflation.

  • The price of the tuna right now is record high and has

  • been record high since the beginning of the year, so we

  • are still impacted a lot by inflation.

  • One pressing concern for Thai Union has been freight

  • costs. Being a global supplier with a vast

  • manufacturing base in Asia, shipping from Thailand to

  • its largest importer, the US has ballooned.

  • Of course, we have a very large manufacturing

  • footprint in Asia and in Thailand, so the price of a

  • container from from Thailand to the US is very

  • important for us. And we have been facing some prices

  • multiplied by 4 or 5.

  • Last year we have been facing also after the war

  • between Russia and Ukraine, on inflation, on the energy

  • prices, also on the packaging and also on the

  • utility prices.

  • But the price surge isn't limited to just operational

  • logistics. The cost of tuna itself has spiked.

  • Typically, Thai Union sourced skipjack tuna for

  • anywhere between $1300 and $1700 per ton, or 2,000

  • pounds in 2023.

  • Those figures are hovering between 1800 to $2000.

  • And the issue we are facing is when you are reaching

  • this kind of level of tuna price, then many customers,

  • they will just wait and see, okay?

  • They know the situation is not supposed to last very

  • long, so they will just stop ordering and they will

  • wait for some some price decrease.

  • And this is a bit the situation we have been

  • facing since the beginning of 2023.

  • To better mitigate these price shocks, Thai Union has

  • been proactive, trying to push for automation and of

  • course, raising prices.

  • Beyond inflation and record prices, the industry is also

  • battling more existential threats.

  • Sustainability, climate change and illegal fishing

  • are just a few areas affecting large

  • conglomerates like Thai Union and smaller business

  • owners like Rick O'shay.

  • The way I see it, the the biggest threat to the

  • viability of the albacore fishery to future

  • generations of fishermen is climate change.

  • Climate change is changing virtually everything about

  • what we do, about where the fish are, where the bait is,

  • what kind of bait that we're seeing, what kind of

  • fish we're seeing.

  • The $40 billion tuna industry spans 70 countries,

  • teeming with fisheries, competing for a market share

  • of the world's most popular fish.

  • Amid this sustainability, challenges persist.

  • Brands like Wild Planet are leading with traceability to

  • combat illegal fishing, hoping to foster a more

  • sustainable future for the industry.

  • We buy fish from the vessels that are known in their port

  • of landing and that are identified, recognized and

  • properly registered in that country.

  • And and that limits our our pool of fish that we can

  • buy. But we're confident, therefore, in that fish

  • being what it actually is, is stated to be the World.

  • Wildlife Fund is urgently advocating for more

  • sustainable fishing regulations, fearing the

  • industry will otherwise collapse.

  • And what we are seeing in the last few decades, we are

  • seeing a 20 fold increase in conflict over fish and

  • with climate change, tuna and other fish is going to

  • move to other parts of their territory.

  • So we are going to see 23% in the next eight years of

  • fish, including tuna, move from one place to the other.

  • And this is really, really dangerous for food,

  • livelihood and peace and security, considering just

  • how important tuna are in general.

We've been tagging and tracking fish for literally

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Why Americans Fell Out Of Love With Canned Tuna

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    林宜悉 發佈於 2023 年 10 月 31 日
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