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  • I've been basically asked to reinterpret Shie's work,

    基本上,他們希望我重新詮釋悉麓的作品,

  • and Shie's been asked to reinterpret one of my looks.

    悉麓也同樣被要求重塑我的作品。

  • So it's kinda like a job swap, really.

    所以實際上,這有點像是交換創作。

  • When I received the email,

    我收到電子郵件時,

  • I was like, "Is it real?"

    心想,「這是真的嗎?」

  • Two designers enter each other's world and see what miracles can happen.

    兩位設計師進入彼此的世界,看看會產生什麼奇蹟。

  • I loved that there were a lot of things that I kind of immediately identified in Shie's work.

    我很欣賞一些在悉麓作品中能一眼看見的東西。

  • There's all this beautiful quilting that's kind of I think where we started

    我認為我們該從這些漂亮的絎縫下手,

  • and also the color palette is really beautiful.

    作品色調也非常漂亮。

  • And so that's what we picked up on was this idea of the blues and then building out the denim.

    因此我們決定將主色調定為藍色,並運用丹寧創作。

  • And I truly believe when I work with next generation designers

    與新世代設計師合作時,

  • that this is already part of their working ways,

    我發現再利用的想法已自然融入他們創作中了,

  • it's not forced, it's not greenwashing,

    不是被迫,也不是為打環保旗號。

  • and I think that's really positive, it gives me hope.

    這點真的很正向,讓我充滿希望。

  • Well, the look that Shie has,

    悉麓的風格

  • it's not dissimilar to what I'm kind of wearing actually,

    其實與我現在穿的這身沒有差太多,

  • it's quite a masculine take,

    十分陽剛,

  • it's very sort of Stella McCartney tailoring.

    剪裁與史黛拉麥卡尼相似。

  • My team and I were very surprised when we received the suit set.

    收到這套衣服時,我和我的團隊都非常驚訝。

  • There is a double breasted jacket and wool trousers.

    是件雙排扣外套和羊毛長褲。

  • The style is very modern and chic with the sort of Savile Row tailoring techniques.

    風格非常現代和別緻,採用塞維街西服剪裁法。

  • I think there is seamlessness of feminine and masculine, elements of androgyny.

    作品完美結合男性與女性元素,陰陽融合。

  • Inside of a tailored jacket is very interesting,

    訂製西服的內襯十分值得探究,

  • there are so many things like paddings, layers of like horse hairs, fabrics, many structures,

    內層有很多東西,如襯墊、馬毛內層、織物,還有許多結構,

  • so I want to make the style very opposite.

    因此,我想做出完全相反的風格。

  • I want to turn it into something very wild, bold, and maybe seductive.

    我想將它變成非常狂野、大膽,甚至可能誘人的作品。

  • I like a challenge and I also lean into technology hugely to answer a lot of my problems.

    我喜歡挑戰,也傾向運用科技解決我的很多問題。

  • And I for a long time have been working with waste.

    很長一段時間,我一直在實行「廢物利用」。

  • And actually this has come out of what I did during the pandemic

    而實際上,這件作品我在疫情期間就已經想出來了,

  • because I did an alphabet, an A to Z with the artist collaborations

    我與藝術家合作,創作了一系列由 A 到 Z 的作品,

  • and one of the looks was a zero waste look that was all denim,

    其中一個就是零廢物創作,都是運用牛仔布,

  • so that's very much inspired, this collaboration and this piece of work.

    那給了我這次合作很大的啟發。

  • Ripping something apart that's already made is something I do quite a lot.

    我經常拆解已完成的作品。

  • My first commercial collection happens during the beginning of Covid,

    我的第一個商業設計誕生於疫情剛開始的階段,

  • so there's nowhere to buy materials, you can only use what you have.

    當時買不到材料,只能運用現有的東西。

  • That's why I started to reuse and upcycle things left in my studio.

    這就我開始重新利用、再造我工作室裡的東西的原因。

  • I use a zero waste pattern cutting techniques and then we cut into different pieces.

    我用的是零浪費裁切技術,將布料裁成不同的部分。

  • And the very interesting thing is we turn the inside out.

    有趣的部分是,我們把內裏翻出來。

  • So we show the chest paddings, the shoulder pads,

    將胸襯墊、肩墊放在外側,

  • then we make it all flat and use the embroidery machine to stitch them together,

    然後將其熨平,用縫紉機縫在一起。

  • and then we keep the very beautiful inside things.

    我們保留了美麗的內襯及內側做工。

  • When you're working in a way that's breaking down a garment,

    本次創作需要先將原本的衣服拆解,

  • in a kind of mindful way and in a considerate way, and in a creative way,

    以小心,精心考慮過且有創意的方式拆解,

  • that does take time in itself just physically breaking apart a pair of jeans where you can still use aspects of it.

    光是要拆解一條牛仔褲,還要拆完布塊都可以用,就是件很費時的事了

  • So I was sort of piling that all together

    所以,我把這些布料堆在一起,

  • and trying to create an item that you'd still wanna wear, but at least have you know, a lot of interest to look at.

    試著創造出一件有趣,但你還是會想穿的衣服。

  • I think being a female designer designing for women,

    作為為女性設計衣服的女設計師,

  • the one thing at least I can do is make something desirable to wear.

    我至少要能做出令人滿意,想穿的衣服。

  • You cut the shape, we put this piece here, we put pockets here.

    切割出形狀,然後我們把布塊放在這,把口袋放在那。

  • So the whole process is very free and creative.

    整個過程非常自由,有創造性。

  • When you really look at the dress,

    如過認真看這條裙子,

  • you can't see the real structures of Stella McCartney's jackets.

    你是看不到原本史黛拉麥卡尼外套的剪裁的。

  • So it's also like a record.

    所以這件作品也像個記錄。

  • 'Course they're gonna deconstruct the whole thing.

    當然,他們也會拆解我的衣服。

  • She can do anything, she can even burn it.

    她可以做任何事,甚至可能燒了它。

  • So I will leave the surprise to the last minute and I'm super looking forward to it.

    我想把這個驚喜留到最後,真的很期待。

  • When I look at her work, I think the silhouettes are much rounder.

    我認她的作品輪廓更加圓潤。

  • There's cropping going on when I've seen it. I think she'll probably get padding.

    有很多剪裁,所以我猜她可能會用到襯墊。

  • I think she'll just be ripping it apart and making it way more brilliant than I did.

    她大概會把衣服撕碎,做出比我更出色的作品。

  • When we receive the garments,

    我們收到服裝時,

  • all the members here, we're just so excited.

    團隊所有成員都十分興奮。

  • When you have the chance to work with someone you heard for a long, long time, you know,

    有機與自己敬仰了很久的人物合作,

  • it's such a huge honor and a huge chance for us, for me.

    對我,對我們來說都是莫大的榮耀。

  • You know, there's a natural, I think, connection between our work.

    我認為我們的作品間有個自然的聯繫。

  • I really felt the love from your team.

    我真實的感受到了你們團隊的熱愛。

  • You know, I can tell it's a small team and I think that's, you know, you can feel it.

    可以看出你們是個小團隊,可以感覺得出來。

  • You can feel it in the work.

    都能從作品中感受到。

  • Wow. Cool. I didn't wanna zoom in on that.

    哇,很酷,我不捨得放大。

  • Can I go closer in? There's so much detail, Shie.

    有細部圖嗎?好多細節啊,悉麓。

  • You've basically dissected it.

    你基本上剖析了整件衣服。

  • We're not far off each other's looks, funnily enough.

    有趣的是,我們的成品沒有差很多。

  • All the fabric you see, besides the black tulle, all the other fabrics like white, black, and gray

    除了黑紗,你看到的所有布料,白色、黑色和灰色,

  • are all from the tailor jackets.

    都是來自原本的西服。

  • But we turn the inside out.

    但我們將內裏翻出。

  • I think it's important to let people know the effort your team made for one jacket.

    我覺得讓人們知道你的團隊在一件西服外套上下了多少功夫很重要。

  • What.

    什麼!

  • Wow. It's like many fabrics there.

    哇,看起來像是用了很多種布料。

  • Like, many handwork,

    下了很多功夫,

  • I can see.

    看得出來。

  • I was drawn to the color of the skirt and the jacket.

    我被那件裙子和外套的顏色吸引。

  • There's such a youthful edge to it

    非常年輕的感覺,

  • that I really wanted to take those elements and maybe Stella-fy them a little bit.

    我想提取這些元素,用我的風格重塑。

  • But also keeping the youth.

    同時也要保留青春感。

  • And for me denim is ageless.

    對我來說,丹寧永不過時。

  • I really wanted to obviously do a completely up-cycled and not bring in any new materials into the conversation.

    我真的很想完全重塑再造,不用任何新材料。

  • And then I wanted to use this complete 360 upcycling to patchwork together your garment with our pieces.

    然後我想用這種全方位再造的方式融合我們的作品。

  • The inside has as much work as the outside

    裏側的作工並不輸外側,

  • and I think that comes back to what you were saying about the tailoring

    我認為這又回到了你剛才提過,跟裁縫相關的點上,

  • and what inspired you on how to translate my bespoke jacket.

    啟發你再造我西裝外套的點。

  • Shie, it was such a pleasure finally meeting you,

    悉麓,很高興終於見到你了。

  • and I've loved working on this project.

    這次合作很愉快。

  • - Thank you so much, Stella. Bye. - Bye.

    - 非常感謝你,史黛拉,掰掰。- 再見。

  • It's nice, you know, you feel like you've met them without meeting them.

    這很好,感覺就像你已經見過對方了,即使你們素未謀面。

  • Even though we're miles away from each other,

    儘管我們彼此相距甚遠,

  • you can definitely pick up on the energy of the designer and their hand

    肯定能感受設計師的氛圍,還有他的手藝,

  • and, you know, a sense of who they are through their work.

    可以通過作品了解對方。

  • 'Cause it's such a huge honor for us to have this chance to collaborate.

    這個合作機會,對我們來說是莫大的榮耀。

  • Give me more, like, fresh perspectives and fresh ideas.

    給了我很多新穎的視角和想法。

  • It's very meaningful for us.

    對我們來說意義重大。

I've been basically asked to reinterpret Shie's work,

基本上,他們希望我重新詮釋悉麓的作品,

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