Name: 兩位設計師交換作品會碰出什麼火花？一起來看看 Vogue 的重塑計畫！（2 Designers Transform Each Other’s Work (ft. Stella McCartney & Shie Lyu) | Vogue）
Uploaded: 2023-07-02T21:01:20.000Z
Duration: 8 min 25 s

I've been basically asked to reinterpret Shie's work,

基本上，他們希望我重新詮釋悉麓的作品，

and Shie's been asked to reinterpret one of my looks.

悉麓也同樣被要求重塑我的作品。

所以實際上，這有點像是交換創作。

Two designers enter each other's world and see what miracles can happen.

兩位設計師進入彼此的世界，看看會產生什麼奇蹟。

I loved that there were a lot of things that I kind of immediately identified in Shie's work.

我很欣賞一些在悉麓作品中能一眼看見的東西。

There's all this beautiful quilting that's kind of I think where we started

我認為我們該從這些漂亮的絎縫下手，

and also the color palette is really beautiful.

And so that's what we picked up on was this idea of the blues and then building out the denim.

因此我們決定將主色調定為藍色，並運用丹寧創作。

And I truly believe when I work with next generation designers

that this is already part of their working ways,

我發現再利用的想法已自然融入他們創作中了，

不是被迫，也不是為打環保旗號。

and I think that's really positive, it gives me hope.

這點真的很正向，讓我充滿希望。

it's not dissimilar to what I'm kind of wearing actually,

其實與我現在穿的這身沒有差太多，

it's very sort of Stella McCartney tailoring.

My team and I were very surprised when we received the suit set.

收到這套衣服時，我和我的團隊都非常驚訝。

There is a double breasted jacket and wool trousers.

The style is very modern and chic with the sort of Savile Row tailoring techniques.

風格非常現代和別緻，採用塞維街西服剪裁法。

I think there is seamlessness of feminine and masculine, elements of androgyny.

作品完美結合男性與女性元素，陰陽融合。

Inside of a tailored jacket is very interesting,

訂製西服的內襯十分值得探究，

there are so many things like paddings, layers of like horse hairs, fabrics, many structures,

內層有很多東西，如襯墊、馬毛內層、織物，還有許多結構，

so I want to make the style very opposite.

因此，我想做出完全相反的風格。

I want to turn it into something very wild, bold, and maybe seductive.

我想將它變成非常狂野、大膽，甚至可能誘人的作品。

I like a challenge and I also lean into technology hugely to answer a lot of my problems.

我喜歡挑戰，也傾向運用科技解決我的很多問題。

And I for a long time have been working with waste.

很長一段時間，我一直在實行「廢物利用」。

And actually this has come out of what I did during the pandemic

而實際上，這件作品我在疫情期間就已經想出來了，

because I did an alphabet, an A to Z with the artist collaborations

我與藝術家合作，創作了一系列由 A 到 Z 的作品，

and one of the looks was a zero waste look that was all denim,

其中一個就是零廢物創作，都是運用牛仔布，

so that's very much inspired, this collaboration and this piece of work.

那給了我這次合作很大的啟發。

Ripping something apart that's already made is something I do quite a lot.

My first commercial collection happens during the beginning of Covid,

我的第一個商業設計誕生於疫情剛開始的階段，

so there's nowhere to buy materials, you can only use what you have.

當時買不到材料，只能運用現有的東西。

That's why I started to reuse and upcycle things left in my studio.

這就我開始重新利用、再造我工作室裡的東西的原因。

I use a zero waste pattern cutting techniques and then we cut into different pieces.

我用的是零浪費裁切技術，將布料裁成不同的部分。

And the very interesting thing is we turn the inside out.

有趣的部分是，我們把內裏翻出來。

So we show the chest paddings, the shoulder pads,

then we make it all flat and use the embroidery machine to stitch them together,

然後將其熨平，用縫紉機縫在一起。

and then we keep the very beautiful inside things.

我們保留了美麗的內襯及內側做工。

When you're working in a way that's breaking down a garment,

本次創作需要先將原本的衣服拆解，

in a kind of mindful way and in a considerate way, and in a creative way,

以小心，精心考慮過且有創意的方式拆解，

that does take time in itself just physically breaking apart a pair of jeans where you can still use aspects of it.

光是要拆解一條牛仔褲，還要拆完布塊都可以用，就是件很費時的事了

So I was sort of piling that all together

所以，我把這些布料堆在一起，

and trying to create an item that you'd still wanna wear, but at least have you know, a lot of interest to look at.

試著創造出一件有趣，但你還是會想穿的衣服。

I think being a female designer designing for women,

作為為女性設計衣服的女設計師，

the one thing at least I can do is make something desirable to wear.

我至少要能做出令人滿意，想穿的衣服。

You cut the shape, we put this piece here, we put pockets here.

切割出形狀，然後我們把布塊放在這，把口袋放在那。

So the whole process is very free and creative.

整個過程非常自由，有創造性。

you can't see the real structures of Stella McCartney's jackets.

你是看不到原本史黛拉麥卡尼外套的剪裁的。

'Course they're gonna deconstruct the whole thing.

當然，他們也會拆解我的衣服。

She can do anything, she can even burn it.

她可以做任何事，甚至可能燒了它。

So I will leave the surprise to the last minute and I'm super looking forward to it.

我想把這個驚喜留到最後，真的很期待。

When I look at her work, I think the silhouettes are much rounder.

There's cropping going on when I've seen it. I think she'll probably get padding.

有很多剪裁，所以我猜她可能會用到襯墊。

I think she'll just be ripping it apart and making it way more brilliant than I did.

她大概會把衣服撕碎，做出比我更出色的作品。

all the members here, we're just so excited.

When you have the chance to work with someone you heard for a long, long time, you know,

有機與自己敬仰了很久的人物合作，

it's such a huge honor and a huge chance for us, for me.

對我，對我們來說都是莫大的榮耀。

You know, there's a natural, I think, connection between our work.

我認為我們的作品間有個自然的聯繫。

我真實的感受到了你們團隊的熱愛。

You know, I can tell it's a small team and I think that's, you know, you can feel it.

可以看出你們是個小團隊，可以感覺得出來。

Wow. Cool. I didn't wanna zoom in on that.

Can I go closer in? There's so much detail, Shie.

有細部圖嗎？好多細節啊，悉麓。

We're not far off each other's looks, funnily enough.

有趣的是，我們的成品沒有差很多。

All the fabric you see, besides the black tulle, all the other fabrics like white, black, and gray

除了黑紗，你看到的所有布料，白色、黑色和灰色，

I think it's important to let people know the effort your team made for one jacket.

我覺得讓人們知道你的團隊在一件西服外套上下了多少功夫很重要。

哇，看起來像是用了很多種布料。

I was drawn to the color of the skirt and the jacket.

我被那件裙子和外套的顏色吸引。

that I really wanted to take those elements and maybe Stella-fy them a little bit.

我想提取這些元素，用我的風格重塑。

I really wanted to obviously do a completely up-cycled and not bring in any new materials into the conversation.

我真的很想完全重塑再造，不用任何新材料。

And then I wanted to use this complete 360 upcycling to patchwork together your garment with our pieces.

然後我想用這種全方位再造的方式融合我們的作品。

The inside has as much work as the outside

and I think that comes back to what you were saying about the tailoring

我認為這又回到了你剛才提過，跟裁縫相關的點上，

and what inspired you on how to translate my bespoke jacket.

Shie, it was such a pleasure finally meeting you,

- 非常感謝你，史黛拉，掰掰。- 再見。

It's nice, you know, you feel like you've met them without meeting them.

這很好，感覺就像你已經見過對方了，即使你們素未謀面。

Even though we're miles away from each other,

you can definitely pick up on the energy of the designer and their hand

肯定能感受設計師的氛圍，還有他的手藝，

and, you know, a sense of who they are through their work.

'Cause it's such a huge honor for us to have this chance to collaborate.

這個合作機會，對我們來說是莫大的榮耀。

Give me more, like, fresh perspectives and fresh ideas.

給了我很多新穎的視角和想法。