There's indoor gyms like this one opening all around the country and in 2020 for the first time it will be an official sport at the Olympics made up of three events.

全國各地都有像這樣的室內體育館，2020年，它將首次成為奧運會上由三個項目組成的正式運動。

The first is lead climbing that's scaling a tall wall using a rope that you use to anchor yourself along a route.

第一種是帶頭攀登，就是用一根繩索攀爬高牆，你用這根繩索沿著路線固定自己。

That changes from competition to competition.

這在不同的競爭中會發生變化。

The second is bouldering no rope this time because it's closer to the ground.

第二塊是巨石，這次沒有繩子，因為離地面比較近。

But the problems are physically and mentally a lot more demanding like lead climbing the roots change from competition to competition.

但問題是身體和精神上的要求要高得多，就像攀登鉛球一樣，根基在比賽中不斷變化。

And the third is speed climbing which is exactly what it sounds like climb a 15 m wall as fast as you possibly can.

第三種是速度攀登，這正是它聽起來的樣子，以儘可能快的速度爬上15米的牆。

Here's the twist unlike lead climbing and bouldering, the route stays the same every single time the holds like this one are standardized and they're in the exact same position in the exact same place along the route.

這裡有一個轉捩點，與帶頭攀巖和抱石不同，路線每次都保持不變，像這樣的支架是標準化的，它們在路線上的位置也完全相同。

Whether you're climbing today, a year from now in the U.

無論你是今天登山，還是一年後在美國登山。

S.

S.

Or abroad.

或在國外。

The fastest time ever recorded on a speed wall is 5.48 seconds.

有史以來在速度牆上記錄的最快時間是5.48秒。

Look at that time.

看看那個時候。

Go down today, we're going to look at why climbing a speed wall in five seconds flat is almost impossible to find out what it takes.

今天下去，我們要看看為什麼在五秒鐘內爬上速度牆幾乎是不可能的，看看它需要什麼。

I climbed with one of the fastest american speed climbers.

我和一個最快的美國速度攀登者一起攀登。

Okay, talked big wall speed climbing with Alex Honnold speed climbing.

好吧，用Alex Honnold的速度攀登來談大牆速度攀登。

Big walls, you don't think about your lactic threshold and just do it over and over and just you know it improves and the physics of flying up the equivalent of a four story building with a bio mechanistic like running or swimming.

大牆，你不考慮你的乳酸閾值，只是一遍又一遍地做，只是你知道它的改善，以及飛上相當於四層樓的物理學，與跑步或游泳一樣的生物力學。

The start procedure is very, Very important, climbing fast in and of itself isn't exactly new people have been racing each other up walls since at least the 1940s, but the standardized route that will see for speed climbing in the Olympics has only been around for a few years.

起步程序是非常非常重要的，快速攀登本身並不新鮮，人們至少從20世紀40年代起就開始在牆上互相比賽，但在奧運會上看到的速度攀登的標準化路線只存在了幾年時間。

The very fastest climber, Iranian Raisa Lalitpur set the world record at 5.48 seconds in 2017 but not even a decade earlier.

非常快的攀登者，伊朗人雷薩-拉利特普爾在2017年以5.48秒的速度創造了世界紀錄，但在十年前甚至沒有。

The record was in the mid six second range today.

今天的記錄是在六秒鐘的範圍內。

That's how long it takes.

這就是它所需要的時間。

This 16 year old champion sprint up the wall.

這個16歲的冠軍衝刺上牆。

So we're here today at Earth treks gym in Englewood colorado.

是以，我們今天在科羅拉多州恩格爾伍德市的Earth treks健身房。

We're gonna do some speed climbing and with us today to help us out is two time national champion Jordan Fishman, you have a couple of records in speed climbing right?

我們要做一些速度攀登，今天和我們一起幫助我們的是兩屆全國冠軍喬丹-菲什曼，你在速度攀登方面有幾個記錄，對嗎？

Alright, he's very fast at it.

好吧，他的動作非常快。

And also with us is Alex Honnold, he is a speed climber of a different sort, he works on bigger walls and you've actually never climbed this either.

和我們在一起的還有Alex Honnold，他是一個不同類型的速度攀登者，他在更大的巖壁上工作，實際上你也沒有爬過這個。

Right, I've never climbed the wall, this is gonna be great.

對了，我從來沒有爬過牆，這一定會很棒。

Alright, I haven't either.

好吧，我也沒有。

I'm super nervous.

我超級緊張。

Let's try this.

我們來試試這個。

I went first, so exciting, let's just say that I did not set any records, he's off like a rocket.

我先走了，太激動了，這麼說吧，我沒有創造任何記錄，他像火箭一樣飛走了。

It took me more than a minute to get up the wall.

我花了1分多鐘才爬上牆。

Yeah, Okay, one minute 15 seconds.

是的，好的，1分15秒。

Ah Alright Alex is turned Then it was Donald's turn.

啊，好吧，亞歷克斯轉身了，然後就輪到唐納德了。

Not surprisingly, he was much faster.

毫不奇怪，他的速度更快。

He made it to the top in just under 30 seconds.

他只用了不到30秒就登上了頂峰。

29 seconds.

29秒。

I feel winded and kinda shaky.

我覺得風很大，有點發抖。

So the progression was 75 seconds, 29 a half seconds.

所以進度是75秒，29秒半。

Let's see you Jourdan.

讓我們看看你朱丹。

Even with a couple of missteps, he scrambled up the wall in 8.5 seconds.

即使有幾次失誤，他也在8.5秒內爭先恐後地爬上了牆。

Just a walk in the park.

只是在公園裡散步。

I know it's pretty classic with mistakes and as a warm up it's still 8.5 seconds.

我知道這是很經典的錯誤，作為熱身，它仍然是8.5秒。

Just for comparison.

只是為了比較。

Here is a shot of each of us on our first climbs.

這是我們每個人第一次爬坡時的照片。

As you can see I'm picking my way slowly up the wall, figuring out the holes as I go.

正如你所看到的，我正在慢慢地往牆上爬，一邊爬一邊摸索洞口。

To be totally honest, My main focus here is on not falling, so I'm being very deliberate with my movements and as a result climbing very slowly.

說實話，我在這裡主要關注的是不要摔倒，所以我在動作上非常謹慎，結果爬得很慢。

Now take a look at Honnold here in the middle like me, he's climbing this route for the very first time, so he's figuring it out as he goes, but he's still much faster in the time it takes me to reach the top.

現在看看像我這樣在中間的Honnold，他是第一次攀登這條路線，所以他是邊走邊摸索，但他還是比我到達頂峰的時間快得多。

Honnold could have climbed this route 2.5 times and a lot of that has to do with his strength and confidence, but also pay attention to his footwork to move fast.

Honnold可以攀登這條路線2.5次，這很大程度上與他的力量和信心有關，但也要注意他的腳下功夫，以快速移動。

He's using not just the holds on the wall, but the wall itself, climbers call this smearing and on the speed wall, it spares them from looking down to find footholds, saving them valuable time.

他使用的不僅僅是牆上的支撐點，還有牆體本身，攀登者稱此為塗抹，在速降牆上，這使他們不必低頭尋找立足點，為他們節省了寶貴的時間。

And then there's fishermen on the far right, he knows this route by heart, so he's relying on explosive strength and muscle memory to blast himself up the wall like Honnold.

然後是最右邊的漁夫，他對這條路線瞭如指掌，所以他依靠爆發力和肌肉記憶，像Honnold一樣把自己轟上牆。

He's also smearing his feet, He's moving so fast that he stumbles a couple of times, but even with those missteps, he still soars up this wall in the time it takes me to climate once fishermen could have climbed it and tagged the buzzer at the top nearly nine times.

他的腳上也沾滿了泥土，他走得很快，以至於有幾次跌倒了，但即使有這些失誤，他仍然在我花的時間裡飛快地爬上了這面牆，而一次漁民可以爬上這面牆，並在牆頂的蜂鳴器上標記了近9次。

I was obviously the slowest took me 75 seconds to complete the run Alex was a lot faster than I was.

我顯然是最慢的，我花了75秒完成了跑步，亞歷克斯比我快得多。

He took just under 30 seconds to complete it, Jordan, you talk about, let's see, that's 8.5 seconds to run through that as a warm up run and you missed a couple holes all right, but that that's a huge difference and I feel like a lot of it boils down to the style with which we were climbing it, like I was being a lot more delicate about it, Alex, you were smearing a lot.

他只用了不到30秒就完成了，喬丹，你說到，讓我看看，那是8.5秒的熱身跑，你錯過了幾個洞，但那是一個巨大的差異，我覺得這很大程度上歸結於我們爬坡的風格，就像我對它更細膩，亞歷克斯，你抹了很多。

So you were just putting your foot directly on the wall.

所以你只是把你的腳直接放在牆上。

I was trying to but obviously there was a lot of room for improvement.

我在努力，但顯然有很多改進的餘地。

So why were you doing that?

那麼你為什麼要這樣做呢？

Uh Just so that I didn't have to think about the footholds as much, basically.

呃......只是為了讓我不必考慮那麼多的立足點，基本上。

So I could focus on just making big moves between the handholds all right, and then you just blaze through it 8.5 seconds.

是以，我可以專注於在手掌之間做大的動作，然後你就在8.5秒內猛衝過去。

So what what how do you how do you trim off 20 seconds?

那麼，什麼什麼，你如何如何減掉20秒？

Part of it is that he didn't have to think about anything because he knows exactly what to do, so his body is just executing without thinking about it.

部分原因是他不必考慮任何事情，因為他清楚地知道要做什麼，所以他的身體只是在執行而不去想它。

Yeah, that's the other thing, this is the first time I've ever done it, this is the first time Alex has ever done it, so there's nothing for us to do would improve, that's the spirit.

是的，這是另一件事，這是我第一次做，這是亞歷克斯第一次做，所以我們沒有什麼可做的會改進，這就是精神。

How did you get faster for one?

你是如何得到更快的一個？

Knowing the route helps and knowing the holds like where you have to grab them and when you have to grab them uh because that just like just thinking, takes time off, so by doing that you can get faster and that also helps with your feet because you know where to place them, so you don't think about that either as you might expect, the start is crucial if you have a bad start, you can kind of ruin your run because as you push off, you have to carry that momentum all the way up through the entire out.

瞭解路線有幫助，也知道要在哪裡抓住它們，什麼時候抓住它們，因為這就像思考一樣，需要時間，所以通過這樣做，你可以變得更快，這對你的腳也有幫助，因為你知道把它們放在哪裡，所以你也不會像你所期望的那樣考慮這個問題，開始是至關重要的，如果你有一個糟糕的開始，你會毀掉你的跑步，因為當你推開時，你必須把這種勢頭一直帶到整個出去。

So if you don't get as fast as a start, typically you're running as fast, even if you can catch up speed would fishman and many other elite speed climbers do is bypass an entire hold, you want to go foot and hand at the same time.

是以，如果你不像開始時那麼快，通常你跑得那麼快，即使你能趕上速度也會fishman和其他許多精英速度攀登者做的是繞過整個保持，你想在同一時間去腳和手。

So you kind of, you get back, you generate as you pull, you push off of this foot cut and then you catch like this and then you kind of start to barn door, but you want to carry the barn door through and then and then fly upward.

所以你那種，你回來，你產生，因為你拉，你推開這個腳切，然後你像這樣抓住，然後你那種開始穀倉門，但你想通過穀倉門進行，然後然後向上飛。

Exactly the move is now called the reason for the Iranian climber who has used it to slash the record up to 15 m wall to 5.48 seconds.

確切地說，此舉現在被稱為伊朗登山者的原因，他用此舉將15米牆的記錄砍到了5.48秒。

Like it just saves so much time off and it, it almost makes you flow better through the next like three or four moves because you're better set up there already.

就像它只是節省了很多時間，它，它幾乎使你在接下來的三或四個動作中更流暢，因為你在那裡已經有了更好的準備。

But the Reza is not easy.

但雷薩並不容易。

I struggled.

我掙扎著。

So did Honnold, but even without the Reza start, could we get faster?

Honnold也是如此，但即使沒有Reza的啟動，我們是否能更快？

We each went again to find out.

我們各自又去了解了一下。

Yeah, that's really good.

是的，這真的很好。

I shaved 40 seconds off my first time running it in 35 seconds.

我第一次跑的時候，35秒就把40秒減掉了。

Honnold took five seconds off doing a 24.5 2nd run And Fishermen Fishermen crushed it 6.62 seconds.

Honnold花了5秒鐘做了24.5秒的跑步，而Fishermen漁民則壓了6.62秒。

Your record is 6.38 right?

你的記錄是6.38，對嗎？

So that's crazy.

所以這很瘋狂。

And that's like, you know you were saying on on any given day, I feel like your record could be a lot lower than any random morning.

這就像，你知道你在任何一天都在說，我覺得你的記錄可能比任何一個隨機的早晨要低很多。

We're not even that warmed up.

我們甚至沒有那麼熱身。

I mean we just showed up and did a little climbing most get average anywhere from like 65268 or nine.

我的意思是，我們只是出現了，做了一個小的攀登，最得到平均任何地方，如65268或9。

But it all, it all just depends on the run in the day of having.

但這一切，都取決於在一天中的運行情況。

So would you consider that a good run?

那麼，你會認為這是一個好的運行嗎？

Yeah, that's surprisingly good.

是的，那是出乎意料的好。

Yeah, for me for like semi warm too.

是的，對我來說，也是為了半溫暖。

And how many of those do you have in you on a given day anywhere?

而在某一天的任何地方，你身上有多少個這樣的東西？

Sometimes I'll do two runs a day, sometimes we'll do eight or nine.

有時我一天跑兩趟，有時我們會跑八、九趟。

But yeah, but it doesn't take money in your cooked, right?

但是，是的，但它不需要在你煮的錢，對嗎？

Yeah.

是的。

It's funny to think that doing six seconds of exertion six times and you're done with the day.

想想看，做六秒鐘的運動六次就可以完成一天的工作，這很有趣。

Like man, I worked out for 45 seconds today, totally anaerobic.

就像夥計，我今天鍛鍊了45秒，完全是無氧運動。

Right?

對嗎？

And what you doing is much more aerobic.

而你所做的是更多的有氧運動。

What I'm doing is completely aerobic.

我所做的完全是有氧運動。

It's basically what you're doing is basically a marathon and you're doing a sprint.

基本上你所做的基本上是一場馬拉松，你在做衝刺。

Many people know Honnold as the subject of Free Solo, the 2018 documentary about his rope ascent of El capitan in Yosemite National Park, but he's also set a number of speed records in the park, including the 3000 ft nose route of El Cap, which he scaled with Tommy caldwell in record time in 2018.

許多人知道Honnold是Free Solo的主題，這是一部關於他在優勝美地國家公園繩索攀登El capitan的2018年紀錄片，但他也在公園裡創造了許多速度記錄，包括El Cap的3000英尺鼻子路線，他在2018年與Tommy caldwell一起以創紀錄的時間攀登。

This footage of the record climb comes from an upcoming film from real rock.

這段攀登記錄的鏡頭來自於真岩石即將推出的一部電影。

It takes most people multiple days to complete that climb.

大多數人需要多日才能完成這一攀登。

But Honnold and caldwell did it in just under two hours.

但霍諾德和考德威爾只用了不到兩個小時就完成了。

Speed climbing outdoors is more about precision and smoothness than it is about being sloppy and fast, which is part of the reason why like people aren't climbing the nose in minutes.

戶外速攀更講究精確和平穩，而不是馬虎和快速，這也是為什麼像人們沒有在幾分鐘內爬上鼻樑的部分原因。

Right?

對嗎？

Yeah, that's that's the reason why it takes a couple hours to climb, you know, pretty much most big walls outside.

是的，這就是為什麼要花幾個小時來爬，你知道，幾乎是外面的大多數大牆。

Yeah.

是的。

Could you apply indoor speed climbing tactics to big walls?

你能把室內速攀戰術應用於大牆嗎？

Not exactly the thing about the speed wall indoors is that there's absolutely no risk.

不完全是，在室內的速度牆的事情是完全沒有風險的。

So you can you can be as free as you want, like you can take risks but outdoors if you take risk you're gonna, you know, you could potentially die on something and the climbing style is completely different.

所以你可以你可以像你想的那樣自由，比如你可以冒險，但在戶外如果你冒險，你會，你知道，你有可能死在什麼東西上，而且攀登的風格完全不同。

I went to Diablo rock gym in concord California to talk with hans florine is tough, so I usually will go off to the footholds on the sides, flooring literally wrote the book on speed climbing big walls and has owned the nose record numerous times.

我去加州concord的Diablo岩石體育館與hans florine交談，他很強硬，所以我通常會去兩側的立足點，flooring簡直是寫了一本關於快速攀登大牆的書，並且無數次擁有鼻子的記錄。

He was a speed climbing star in the nineties but he's still really fast.

他是九十年代的速度攀登明星，但他的速度仍然非常快。

This is the first ever World Championship speed climbing cup, fully drinkable.

這是有史以來第一個世界錦標賽速攀杯，完全可以飲用。

He's in his fifties and last year broke both his legs and both his angles falling on el Cap, he still beat me up the wall twice.

他已經50多歲了，去年在el Cap上摔斷了兩條腿和兩個角，他仍然把我打得滿地找牙。

Then he showed me what it's like to climb on El Cap climbing there to rest the outside of my hand.

然後他向我展示了在El Cap上攀登的感覺攀登在那裡休息我的手的外面。

We went to the gyms crack wall, which simulates the fissured granite that you find on much of the nose route and requires a completely different style of climbing.

我們去了健身房的裂縫牆，它模擬了你在鼻子路線的大部分地方發現的裂縫花崗岩，需要一種完全不同的攀登風格。

Remember just rotate your hand or your wrist and find where it's most comfortable or least painful.

記住只要轉動你的手或你的手腕，找到最舒適或最不痛苦的地方。

Only took me, you know, 34 minutes, right?

只花了我，你知道，34分鐘，對嗎？

But then again, that's only 30 ft.

但話說回來，這只是30英尺。

So 3000 ft on El Cap, you do 99 more laps.

是以，在El Cap的3000英尺處，你又做了99圈。

And this would be a really long show, but that would be doing the nose in a day at the gym, right?

而這將是一個非常長的節目，但這將是在健身房一天內做的鼻子，對嗎？

And then there's the weight of all the safety equipment you have to take.

還有就是你必須攜帶的所有安全設備的重量。

You've got this extra added weight.

你已經有了這個額外的附加重量。

This is probably, you know, 11 12 £13.

這可能是，你知道，11 12英鎊13。

And that's about what you'd carry if you were just going to climb the nose of El Cap in a single day.

如果你只是想在一天內爬上埃爾卡普的鼻子，這大概就是你要攜帶的東西。

Still experienced climbers like florian and Honnold think the time for a classic route, like the nose could still be brought down.

還是像弗洛裡安和霍諾德這樣有經驗的攀登者認為，像鼻子這樣的經典路線的時間還是可以帶下來的。

And we thought it was kind of like the marathon that it would get close to two hours.

我們認為這有點像馬拉松比賽，會接近兩小時。

But then it turns out actually wasn't that hard to break two hours.

但後來發現其實要突破兩小時並不難。

It's not like the marathon, it'll probably go down to 1 20.

它不像馬拉松，它可能會下降到1 20。

I think that if you apply the climbing pace that's used on an indoor climbing wall to El Cap, I mean yeah, you could do it in half an hour but it's just hard to imagine climbing that quickly while still placing protection and clipping your rope and managing all the other systems.

我認為，如果你把室內攀巖牆的攀登速度應用於埃爾卡普，我的意思是，是的，你可以在半小時內完成，但你很難想象攀登速度如此之快，同時還要放置保護裝置，夾住你的繩子，管理所有其他系統。

But the speed wall is pure climbing.

但速度牆是純粹的攀登。

Could it get any faster?

還能再快一點嗎？

The start is clearly key but there's more elements to the climb than that.

起點顯然是關鍵，但爬坡的要素不止這些。

So I called up french researcher Pierre La and I was the first champion speak time in champion in France in 90 89.

所以我叫來了法國研究員皮埃爾-拉，我是90年89年法國的第一個冠軍發言時間。

And now I'm working biomechanics in climbing has studied speed climbing data and found that the fastest athletes optimize the root the top.

而現在我在工作中生物力學在攀登中研究了速度攀登的數據，發現最快的運動員優化了根基的頂部。

It is like the fable of the hare and the total.

這就像兔子和總數的寓言。

So here goes very fast and spends its time sleeping and walking around the path.

所以這裡走得非常快，把時間花在睡覺和走動的路上。

So it will travel a lot of way and would take a lot longer than the total that never stops and moves in a straight line.

是以，它將會走很多路，而且會比永不停歇、直線運動的總要長很多。

And the speed climbing is similar if the path of the body mass center is very, very long.

而如果身體品質中心的路徑非常非常長，速度的攀升也是類似的。

The time at the end will also be very high.

最後的時間也會很高。

Take a look at this graph based on research the blue line is the path to the climber center of mass takes from the bottom of the climb to the top.

看看這個基於研究的圖表，藍線是攀登者的質心從底部到頂部的路徑。

The red lines are the furthest of the climber center of mass moves left or right.

紅線是攀登者質心向左或向右移動的最遠位置。

The straighter the blue line and the narrower the red ones.

藍色的線越直，紅色的越窄。

The faster an athlete can climb.

運動員爬得越快。

That is exactly what resonated when he eliminated that fourth handhold.

這正是他消除那第四個手掌時的共鳴。

When the wood was created, the idea of the would settle was to position the climb To the left in the starting position like source.

當木頭被創造出來的時候，會安的想法是把攀登的位置放在左邊的起始位置，如源。

And that's the 1st 400 holes of the word.

而這就是這個詞的第400個洞。

Our position to the left.

我們的位置在左邊。

Here's video of Reza in 2013 as you can see he makes this big arc going to the fourth hold here he is again in 2017.

這是2013年雷扎的視頻，你可以看到他做了這個大弧線，去了第四個地方，在這裡他又是在2017年。

This time pulling off his signature move it straightens the curve and makes him considerably faster to make our website.

這次拉開了他的招牌動作，它拉直了曲線，使他大大加快了我們的網站。

It's necessary to arrive on the third hand hold with a very high speed.

有必要以很高的速度到達第三隻手的位置。

But not all people use the reason it requires a lot of strength and coordination.

但並不是所有的人都使用，因為它需要很大的力量和協調。

And there's another variable as well.

而且還有另一個變量。

That's the texture of the wall itself.

那是牆壁本身的紋理。

So the holds might not change their position might not change.

是以，持有者可能不會改變他們的立場可能不會改變。

But some walls are super rough, which is good and others are super slick, which can make it really hard to get your shoe on it and get yourself that push you need to move up the wall.

但有些牆面超級粗糙，這是好事，而另一些牆面則超級光滑，這可能會使你的鞋子真的很難穿上它，讓你自己得到你需要的推力，從而在牆上移動。

A very important point for the fish will therefore to supersize the surface of the walls to allow climbers to invent new strategies that will allow to climb faster and faster.

是以，對魚來說，非常重要的一點將是超大的牆面，以允許攀登者發明新的策略，從而使攀登速度越來越快。