Ni'Kita Wilson: Oh, no.

尼基塔-威爾遜哦，不。

No, no, no, no, no, no, no.

不，不，不，不，不，不，不。

"You don't need to exfoliate." Pssh.

"你不需要去角質。"Pssh.

Chang: [laughs] Oh, man.

張：[笑]哦，夥計。

Wilson: Oh, I love this one.

威爾遜。哦，我喜歡這個人。

Myth: "If you feel a tingling or burning sensation,

誤區："如果你感到刺痛或灼熱的感覺。

it means the product is working."

這意味著該產品正在發揮作用。

Chang: Oh, my gosh. I had to say, "No!"

張。哦，我的天哪，我不得不說，"不！"

when I saw this myth.

當我看到這個神話的時候。

My name is Ni'Kita Wilson, and I'm a cosmetic chemist.

我的名字是Ni'Kita Wilson，我是一名化妝品化學家。

And my name is Dr. Claire Chang,

我的名字是克萊爾-張博士。

and we're here today to debunk

而我們今天在這裡是為了駁斥

a few myths about skin care.

關於皮膚護理的幾個神話。

Wilson: Let's get started!

威爾遜。讓我們開始吧!

"Drinking extra water will make your skin look better."

"多喝水會使你的皮膚看起來更好"。

Ooh, take it away, Dr. Chang.

哦，把它拿走，張博士。

Chang: Although drinking an adequate amount of water

張。雖然喝足量的水

is important for your overall health,

對你的整體健康很重要。

there's actually no scientific evidence

實際上沒有科學證據

that drinking extra water goes straight to your skin

多喝水會直接影響你的皮膚

or that it can improve your skin hydration.

或者說，它可以改善你的皮膚水合作用。

Excess water is most likely just filtered

多餘的水很可能只是被過濾了

out of your body through urine.

通過尿液排出體外。

Wilson: I can personally attest to the extra water

威爾遜：我個人可以證明，額外的水

just passing through.

只是路過。

Chang: Our next myth:

張。我們的下一個神話。

"Your skin will get used to the products you use,

"你的皮膚會習慣於你使用的產品。

and then they'll stop working."

然後他們就會停止工作。"

Wilson: Oh, I love that one.

威爾遜。哦，我喜歡這句話。

It's not a matter of your skin getting used to the products.

這不是你的皮膚習慣於產品的問題。

A product can only do but so much.

一個產品只能做這麼多。

There comes a point where those ingredients have done

有一個點，這些成分已經做了

all they could possibly do for your skin.

他們可能為你的皮膚所做的一切。

Chang: If you've noticed a huge improvement

張：如果你注意到一個巨大的改善

when you first started using a product

當你第一次開始使用產品時

and then notice less improvement over time,

然後注意到隨著時間的推移，改善程度降低。

just like Ni'Kita said,

就像Ni'Kita說的那樣。

it may be because over time we reach a plateau

這可能是因為隨著時間的推移，我們達到了一個高原狀態

in which your skin's visibly improved,

其中，你的皮膚明顯改善。

and at this point the ingredients are still working,

而在這一點上，這些成分仍在發揮作用。

but they're maintaining a new normal.

但他們正在維持一種新的常態。

Wilson: "The order in which you use

威爾遜："你使用的順序是

your skin-care products doesn't matter."

你的皮膚護理產品並不重要。"

Chang: Order definitely matters.

張。秩序絕對重要。

In general,

一般來說。

you should apply your products thinnest to thickest,

你應該從最薄到最厚地使用你的產品。

and those with the active ingredients should go on first.

而那些有活性成分的應該先上。

Wilson: Agree 100%.

威爾遜。100%同意。

If you have a water-based serum,

如果你有一個水基血清。

it's going to be hard-pressed to fight its way

它將很難打出自己的路。

through those barriers that we created in the cream

通過我們在奶油中創造的那些障礙

in order to get into the skin to work.

以便進入皮膚起作用。

So definitely thinner, more active first,

所以肯定是先瘦一點，再活躍一點。

and then build up heavier later.

然後以後再建立更重的。

Chang: So, I recommend doing a cleanser first,

張。所以，我建議先做一個洗面乳。

then a toner, essences or ampoules,

然後是爽膚水、精華液或安瓶。

then do your thicker moisturizers and your creams,

然後再做較厚的保溼劑和麵霜。

then your facial oils,

然後是你的面部油。

then your sunscreen, and then your makeup.

然後是你的防晒霜，然後是你的化妝。

Our next myth is, "Pores can get smaller."

我們的下一個神話是，"毛孔可以變小"。

Wilson: Oh, nope.

威爾遜。哦，不對。

Your pores do not get smaller.

你的毛孔不會變小。

Chang: There is also a circulating myth going around

張。還有一個流傳甚廣的神話故事

that cold water can shrink the pores,

冷水可以收縮毛孔。

but this is just a myth.

但這只是一個神話。

Wilson: Your pores are the same size.

威爾遜：你的毛孔是一樣大的。

What can happen is your pores could swell up,

可能發生的情況是你的毛孔可能會腫起來。

you know, oil can bring dirt, debris,

你知道，油會帶來汙垢和碎片。

dead skin cells can get in there and swell.

死皮細胞會進入那裡並膨脹。

They get engorged, you know,

它們會被充血，你知道。

from all this stuff that gets stuck in there,

從所有這些東西被卡在那裡。

and then when they're cleaned out,

然後當他們被清理出來。

they just get back to the normal size.

他們只是恢復到正常大小。

But the walls can also get compromised,

但牆壁也會受到影響。

and so they can kind of lean and become weak.

是以，他們可以有點傾斜，變得虛弱。

And that also could change the appearance

而這也可能改變外觀

of how your pores look.

你的毛孔看起來如何。

"You don't need to moisturize your face if it's oily."

"如果你的臉是油性的，你就不需要保溼。"

Chang: This is definitely a myth.

張。這絕對是一個神話。

There is a difference between skin oil and skin hydration.

皮膚油和皮膚水化之間是有區別的。

So, skin hydration is the water content

所以，皮膚的水合作用是指水的含量

or the moisture levels of the skin,

或皮膚的水分水準。

whereas skin oil is the sebum content.

而皮膚油是指皮脂含量。

So, sebum is secreted by your facial oil glands

所以，皮脂是由你的面部油腺分泌的

or sebaceous glands,

或皮脂腺。

and it helps protect the skin barrier.

而且它有助於保護皮膚屏障。

But sebum can contribute to that oily, greasy look

但皮脂會導致那種油膩的外觀

on the face, so people don't like it.

在臉上，所以人們不喜歡它。

The important thing to remember is

要記住的重要事情是

that oily skin can become dehydrated

油性皮膚會變得缺水

and have a low water content,

並具有較低的含水量。

so moisturizing is still important.

所以保溼仍然很重要。

I advise that you use the right moisturizers,

我建議你使用正確的保溼劑。

oil-free moisturizers that are noncomedogenic.

不產生粉刺的無油保溼劑。

Also look for lightweight lotions

也要尋找輕盈的乳液

rather than thicker creams.

而不是較厚的奶油。

The lotions have a higher water-to-oil content,

這些乳液的水油含量較高。

whereas creams have a higher oil-to-water content.

而面霜的油水含量更高。

Most recently I've been using Sulwhasoo,

最近，我一直在使用雪花秀。

which is a Korean brand.

這是一個韓國品牌。

S U L W H A S O O.

S u l w h a s o o.

Wilson: You didn't know this was going to be

威爾遜：你不知道這將會是

a spelling bee too, did you?

你也參加了拼寫比賽，是嗎？

Chang: "You don't need to wear sunscreen,

張："你不需要塗抹防晒霜。

even when it's cloudy."

即使是在陰天。"

Wilson: You need to wear sunscreen when it's cloudy,

威爾遜：陰天時你需要塗抹防晒霜。

when it's sunny.

晴天的時候。

The only time you don't need to wear sunscreen

唯一不需要塗抹防晒霜的時候

is when there is no sun. It's night.

是沒有太陽的時候。它是夜晚。

Just because you can't see the sun,

只是因為你看不到太陽。

the UV rays are still there.

紫外線仍然存在。

They're still present.

他們仍然存在。

And it's the UV rays that are doing the damage.

而造成損害的正是紫外線。

And it doesn't matter what your pigmentation load is,

而且，你的色素沉著量是多少並不重要。

you need sunscreen.

你需要防晒霜。

I recommend 30 and above,

我建議30歲及以上。

because if you're using 15 and then using

因為如果你在使用15，然後使用

a little bit, you're not going to get

一點點，你就不會得到

the level of protection that you need.

你需要的保護水準。

"The more expensive the product,

"產品越是昂貴。

the better it works."

它的效果就越好。"

Chang: Absolutely false.

張。絕對是假的。

Many of the products that I use

我所使用的許多產品

and that I recommend are very affordable

而我推薦的是非常實惠的

and found in the drugstore.

並在藥店找到。

I say that the efficacy of the ingredients

我說，成分的功效

and the formulation matter a lot more than the price.

和配方比價格重要得多。

Wilson: I agree.

威爾遜：我同意。

You know, as a chemist,

你知道，作為一個化學家。

I want you to buy the most expensive product we make.

我想讓你購買我們生產的最昂貴的產品。

[laughs]

[笑聲]

But the reality is,

但現實是。

it really does get down to the ingredients

它確實可以歸結為成分

and what you're looking for.

和你正在尋找的東西。

You can go to the drugstore

你可以去藥店

and you can pick out really great products

而且你可以挑選出真正偉大的產品

that can really help you and really

能真正幫助你和真正

make a difference in your skin care.

使你的皮膚護理與眾不同。

Chang: The next myth is,

張。下一個神話是。

"The more you wash your face, the better."

"洗臉越多越好。"

Wilson: Oh, no.

威爾遜。哦，不。

No, no, no, no, no, no, no.

不，不，不，不，不，不，不。

Your face is not that dirty.

你的臉沒有那麼髒。

You know, you wash it in the morning, you wash it at night.

你知道，你在早上洗，在晚上洗。

You don't have to overdo it.

你不需要做得太過火。

Actually, the more you wash your face,

實際上，你越是洗臉。

your skin could be worse off.

你的皮膚可能會變得更糟。

One, you are getting rid of the microbiome.

第一，你正在擺脫微生物組。

You're throwing that all off balance,

你讓這一切失去了平衡。

and when you do that,

而當你這樣做的時候。

you compromise your skin barrier,

你損害了你的皮膚屏障。

and when your skin barrier is compromised,

以及你的皮膚屏障受到損害時。

that can lead to irritation, sensitivity.

這可能導致刺激性、敏感性。

Chang: Over-washing your face,

昌。過度洗臉。

especially with harsh soaps or scrubs,

特別是用刺激性的肥皂或磨砂膏。

the ones with those beads in it,

有那些珠子的。

can really dry out and irritate the skin.

真的會使皮膚變得乾燥和刺激。

I just recommend washing your face twice a day,

我只是建議每天洗兩次臉。

and then also after sweating heavily,

然後也是在大汗淋漓之後。

because sweat can clog the pores

因為汗水會堵塞毛孔

and irritate the skin further.

並進一步刺激皮膚。

Wilson: "You don't need to exfoliate." Pssh.

威爾遜："你不需要去角質"。Pssh.

Chang: [laughs]

張：[笑]

Oh, man.

哦，夥計。

Everyone can benefit from some gentle exfoliation.

每個人都可以從一些溫和的去角質中受益。

Exfoliating can help renew and brighten your skin,

去角質可以幫助更新和提亮你的皮膚。

even your skin tone, de-clog pores.

均勻你的膚色，疏通毛孔。

It helps in anti-aging,

它有助於抗衰老。

and it can actually improve the absorption

而且它實際上可以改善吸收

of other topicals you're putting on your skin.

你在皮膚上使用的其他外用藥。

Wilson: I love exfoliation.

威爾遜：我喜歡去角質。

I love it for every reason you just named.

我喜歡它，因為你剛才提到的每一個原因。

And for me, again, because I have

而對我來說，又因為我有

very oily skin and acne-prone

非常油膩的皮膚和容易長痘的人

and also hyperpigmentation, exfoliation really helps.

還有色素沉著，去角質確實有幫助。

Chang: You're reminding me

張：你在提醒我

I need to go exfoliate today. [both laugh]

我今天需要去去角質。[兩人都笑了]

If you're using a very gentle exfoliant,

如果你使用的是非常溫和的去角質劑。

you can do it every day.

你可以每天都這樣做。

If you tend to have sensitive skin

如果你有敏感皮膚的傾向

or you're using a higher concentration,

或者你使用的是更高的濃度。

you might want to limit it to two times a week,

你可能想把它限制在每週兩次。

even one time a week,

甚至每週一次。

and then if you're using in-office kind of chemical peels

然後，如果你使用辦公室內的那種化學換膚方法

and going to a facialist or your dermatologist,

並去看美容師或你的皮膚科醫生。

you may want to limit it to every two to four weeks,

你可能想把它限制在每兩到四周一次。

because they're using much higher concentrations

因為他們使用的濃度要高得多

of chemical exfoliants.

化學去角質劑的。

Wilson: I can't end this without giving a shout-out

威爾遜：在結束這篇文章之前，我不能不喊出聲來

to Dr. Dennis Gross

致丹尼斯-格羅斯博士

and his AHA/BHA pad.

和他的AHA/BHA墊。

Beautiful, beautiful.

美麗，美麗。

Chang: The next myth is,

張。下一個神話是。

"You need to use a lot

"你需要使用大量的

of skin-care products to get good skin."

的護膚品來獲得良好的皮膚。"

Wilson: Again, as a cosmetic chemist,

威爾遜。同樣，作為一個化妝品化學家。

I wish that were true.

我希望那是真的。

You don't need to use a lot of products,

你不需要使用大量的產品。

you just need to find the right products

你只需要找到合適的產品

that work for your skin needs.

適合你的皮膚需求。

Chang: Sometimes, actually, using too many products

張。有時，實際上，使用太多的產品

can do more harm than good.

會造成更大的傷害。

Wilson: Oh, I love this one.

威爾遜。哦，我喜歡這個人。

Myth: "If you feel a tingling or burning sensation,

誤區："如果你感到刺痛或灼熱的感覺。

it means the product is working."

這意味著該產品正在發揮作用。

Chang: I had to say, "No!" when I saw this myth.

張：當我看到這個神話時，我不得不說，"不！"。

I was just like, "Ah!"

我當時只是想，"啊！"

I always say actually your daily skin care

我總是說其實你的日常皮膚護理

should typically not be uncomfortable at all.

一般來說，應該不會有任何不舒服的感覺。

And if it is,

而如果是這樣的話。

it's a sign that your skin cannot tolerate the product.

這是一個跡象，表明你的皮膚不能容忍該產品。

Wilson: It's not always good to ask someone,

威爾遜：問別人並不總是好事。

"What are you using?" and then go and buy it,

"你在用什麼？"然後去買它。

because your skin may not have the same tolerance level

因為你的皮膚可能沒有相同的容忍度

as theirs, so you may have a different reaction.

和他們的一樣，所以你可能有不同的反應。

Chang: And I know a lot of people who try to use

張。我知道有很多人試圖用

the best, the most effective ingredient,

最好的，最有效的成分。

and they try to kind of stand through it.

他們試圖通過這種方式站起來。

They want to persist because they want

他們想堅持下去，因為他們想

to get their skin looking shiny and wrinkle-free.

以使他們的皮膚看起來有光澤和無皺紋。

But your skin, again, is different

但你的皮膚，又是不同的

from all of those people out there,

從所有這些人在那裡。

and it may not be able to tolerate it,

而它可能無法容忍它。

so you want to find the right product for you.

所以你要找到適合你的產品。

"Acne is only a problem during puberty."

"痤瘡只是青春期的一個問題"。

Wilson: [laughs]

威爾遜：[笑]

Can someone tell my skin that, please?

誰能告訴我的皮膚，好嗎？

You could have not had acne during puberty,

你可能在青春期沒有長過痤瘡。

and all of a sudden, as you enter 30s or 40s,

而突然之間，當你進入30歲或40歲時。

you all of a sudden start to get it.

你突然開始明白了。

You know, your hormones are changing,

你知道，你的荷爾蒙在變化。

and I'm a living, breathing testament

而我是一個活生生的證明

that that is not the case.

這並不是事實。

Chang: Adult acne may be persistent from puberty,

張。成人痤瘡可能從青春期開始就一直存在。

but a lot of times it's late onset

但很多時候都是晚期發病

in patients who've never had acne before.

在以前從未患過痤瘡的病人中。

The reasons for acne in adulthood are genetics,

成年後出現痤瘡的原因是遺傳因素。

hormones, clogged pores, inflammation.

荷爾蒙、毛孔堵塞、發炎。

Stress can definitely worsen acne.

壓力肯定會使痤瘡惡化。

Certain diets can worsen acne, including, you know,

某些飲食會使痤瘡惡化，包括，你知道。

high-sugar, high-carb diets.

高糖、高碳水化合物的飲食。

Pregnancy can sometimes trigger acne.

懷孕有時會引發痤瘡。

I definitely had acne during my pregnancy.

我在懷孕期間肯定有痤瘡。

Cosmetics, too.

化妝品，也是如此。

It's nice to really kind of localize where the acne is,

很高興能真正地將痤瘡的位置本地化。

because those might be triggers

因為這些可能是觸發因素

that you can remove

你可以刪除

and see if your acne gets better