- [Matt] Most of us can't imagine looking

- [馬特]我們中的大多數人都無法想象看

into our closet and not seeing a pair of these, blue jeans.

進入我們的衣櫥，沒有看到一條這樣的藍色牛仔褲。

You've got the skinny hipster kind, boot cuts,

你已經有了瘦小的臀部那種，靴子式的。

dad jeans, no judgment.

爸爸的牛仔褲，沒有判斷。

One thing that just about all of our jeans have

有一點，我們所有的牛仔褲都有

in common is that blue part, the indigo dye.

其共同點是藍色部分，即靛藍染料。

Unfortunately, the dye we use today is pretty dirty.

不幸的是，我們今天使用的染料是相當骯髒的。

And because we make a lot, and I mean,

而且因為我們賺了很多，我是說。

seriously a lot of jeans, that one process has an impact,

嚴重的是很多牛仔褲，這一個過程有影響。

but some people are reinventing the way we make indigo dye.

但有些人正在重新發明我們製作靛藍染料的方式。

So that in the future,

是以，在未來。

our jeans might just be a little cleaner.

我們的牛仔褲可能只是稍微乾淨一點。

I'd wear this.

我想穿這個。

I think I'm wearing this right now.

我想我現在就在穿這個。

(Tammy laughing)

(塔米笑)

- [Tammy] That's right.

- [塔米]這就對了。

(contemplative music)

(沉思的音樂)

- Jeans are iconic, just so that everybody has them

- 牛仔褲是標誌性的，只是為了讓每個人都擁有它

in their closet.

在他們的衣櫃裡。

So, I think that is why they're a great case study.

是以，我認為這就是為什麼他們是一個偉大的案例研究。

- [Matt] Every year, it's estimated that billions of pairs

- [馬特]據估計，每年都有數十億對

of jeans are made, and to give them that iconic blue hue,

這條牛仔褲的製作，並使其具有標誌性的藍色色調。

over 70,000 tons of indigo are produced as well,

還生產了超過70,000噸的靛藍。

and that indigo is actually key to that classic faded look.

靛藍實際上是經典褪色外觀的關鍵。

- That's what makes jeans so great because like

- 這就是牛仔褲的偉大之處，因為像

as you wear jeans, this comes off,

當你穿牛仔褲時，這就會脫落。

and you get this like beautiful fading.

而你得到的是這種像美麗的褪色。

So, that's why you can only use indigo.

所以，這就是為什麼你只能使用靛藍。

- [Matt] There are actually two kinds of indigo dye

- [馬特]實際上，有兩種靛藍染料

that can produce that fade, natural and synthetic.

能產生這種褪色的，自然的和合成的。

Humans have been using the natural stuff that comes

人類一直在使用天然的東西，這些東西來自於

from Indigofera plants for 1,000s of years.

從Indigofera植物中提取，已有1000多年的歷史。

But in 1897, German chemists invented synthetic indigo dye

但在1897年，德國化學家發明了合成靛藍染料

for industrial scale production.

用於工業規模生產。

- These days, almost all genes are dyed

- 這些天來，幾乎所有的基因都是染色的

with synthetic indigo dye.

用合成靛藍染料。

Chemically, it's identical to plant-based indigo dye.

在化學上，它與植物性靛藍染料相同。

- So, the end product is the same,

- 是以，最終產品是一樣的。

but the production process requires a nasty mix

但生產過程需要一個令人討厭的組合

of fossil fuels and toxic materials,

的化石燃料和有毒材料。

like formaldehyde, hydrogen cyanide, aniline,

如甲醛、氰化氫、苯胺。

and sodium amide.

和酰胺鈉。

The problem is what happens when you use synthetic

問題是，當你使用合成材料時會發生什麼

indigo dye to dye billions and billions of jeans?

靛藍染料可以染出數十億條牛仔褲？

Let's dye some fabric.

我們來染一些布料。

(relaxing music)

(放鬆的音樂)

So, the dying process uses a lot of different chemicals.

是以，染色過程中使用了很多不同的化學品。

You have the indigo dye itself,

你有靛藍染料本身。

but then you also have additives,

但是，你也有添加劑。

and that's what allows the indigo to dissolve in water.

而這正是讓靛藍溶於水的原因。

In our case, we're using soda ash and sodium hydrosulfite,

在我們的案例中，我們正在使用純鹼和亞硫酸氫鈉。

which our dying kit just says, may be harmful if misused.

我們的臨終套件只是說，如果誤用，可能是有害的。

So on an industrial scale, these additives can be harmful

是以在工業規模上，這些添加劑可能是有害的

to people working in textile factories,

在紡織廠工作的人。

especially if the factory isn't up to spec,

特別是如果工廠不符合規格。

or they don't have access to PPE.

或者他們沒有機會獲得個人防護設備。

Chemical exposure has been linked to respiratory issues,

化學品暴露與呼吸道問題有關。

skin problems, and even some cancers in textile workers.

紡織工人的皮膚問題，甚至是一些癌症。

So, I'm not in a textile factory, but it is windy,

所以，我不在紡織廠，但風很大。

and better to be safe than sorry.

而且，安全比遺憾好。

After a few dips, we need to rinse off all of the chemicals

經過幾次浸泡後，我們需要衝洗掉所有的化學品

with just some clean water here.

只要有一些乾淨的水在這裡就可以了。

But not all jeans are created equally,

但不是所有的牛仔褲都是一樣的。

some finished products can contain contaminants

一些成品可能含有汙染物

like formaldehyde and aniline.

如甲醛和苯胺。

So, now we finished dying everything.

所以，現在我們完成了對所有東西的染色。

All we have to do is safely dispose of all this by flushing

我們所要做的就是通過沖水來安全地處理所有這些東西。

it straight down the drain.

它直接進入下水道。

This is just a five-gallon bucket,

這只是一個五加侖的桶。

but as much as 280,000 tons of textile dyes end

但多達280,000噸的紡織染料結束了。

up as wastewater each year,

作為廢水每年增加。

and not all of it is disposed of properly,

而不是所有的東西都被妥善處理。

especially in places where there aren't good

特別是在那些沒有好的

environmental protections, or the industry is unregulated.

環境保護，或者該行業不受監管。

- If you go

- 如果你去

to any factory cities producing these textile products,

到任何生產這些紡織產品的工廠城市。

the rivers are black from the effluence coming out

河流被流出的汙水染成黑色

of these factories.

這些工廠的。

- [Matt] That wastewater can foul up aquatic ecosystems,

- 廢水會破壞水生生態系統。

pollute drinking water,

汙染飲用水。

and even end up in food grown nearby.

甚至最終出現在附近種植的食物中。

- And I know that a lot of denim laundries,

- 而且我知道，很多牛仔褲洗衣店。

denim brands they're hoping for some sort

牛仔褲品牌，他們希望得到某種形式的

of innovation where they can move away

他們可以在創新的過程中擺脫

from synthetic indigo.

來自合成靛藍。

- [Matt] But it's not all bad news,

- [Matt]但這並不全是壞消息。

there are lots of efforts to improve this process end to end

有很多努力來改善這個過程的終端。

from water reduction to safer finishing techniques,

從減少用水到更安全的整理技術。

and one company is targeting that blue color

而有一家公司正瞄準這種藍色

that we all love.

我們都喜歡的。

(contemplative music)

(沉思的音樂)

- So, this is a pretty standard kind

- 所以，這是一個相當標準的種類

of molecular biology lab.

分子生物學實驗室的。

This is where we do a lot of our kind of cutting and pasting

這就是我們做了很多切割和粘貼的地方

of DNA to put it into our microbial host.

的DNA，將其放入我們的微生物宿主。

- [Matt] Huue is a company that makes indigo dye

- [Matt] Huue是一家生產靛藍染料的公司。

from sugar instead of fossil fuels.

從糖而不是化石燃料。

They start with an indigo plant and sequence the DNA

他們從一種靛藍植物開始，對其進行DNA測序。

for indigo compounds.

為靛藍化合物。

That genetic code gets programmed into microbes,

該遺傳密碼被編入微生物中。

which then produce those exact indigo molecules.

然後產生那些確切的靛藍分子。

- And you can kind of see that some

- 而且你可以看到，有些

of them are producing a lot of dark blue color,

他們中的一些人正在生產大量的深藍色。

and some of them are producing much less, and so you-

而其中一些人的產量要少得多，所以你...

- [Matt] Whichever strains are performing best,

- [Matt]無論哪種品系表現最好。

get put in a shaker flask to proliferate.

放在搖瓶中進行增殖。

Those cultures grow until there's enough to go

這些文化不斷增長，直到有足夠的資源去

into a bioreactor.

進入一個生物反應器。

- In each of these reactors,

- 在這些反應堆中的每一個。

we have either a different strain of our microbe,

我們的微生物要麼有一個不同的菌株。

or the same strain with different kind of media conditions

或同一菌種在不同種類的培養基條件下的表現

or growth conditions.

或生長條件。

We can control things like how fast they're stirring

我們可以控制一些事情，比如他們攪拌的速度有多快

and how much oxygen is going into the broth.

以及有多少氧氣進入肉湯。

- The dyes are then analyzed and purified

- 然後對這些染料進行分析和提純。

before the testing phase.

在測試階段之前。

- So, after the bacteria have kind of grown

- 是以，在細菌生長後

and produced the indigo dye, it's still kind of this mixture

並生產出靛藍染料，它仍然是這種混合物

of bacteria, and dye,

的細菌，和染料。

and the media that it's actually been grown in.

以及它實際生長的媒體。

We work on purifying out the dye and making sure

我們的工作是提純染料並確保

that the final dye stuff is exactly what a synthetic indigo

最後的染料正是合成靛藍的東西。

user would expect.

用戶會期待。

(contemplative music)

(沉思的音樂)

First, we add the concentrated dye to water.

首先，我們將濃縮的染料加入水中。

So, now.

所以，現在。

- Got my job.

- 得到了我的工作。

- [Tammy] So, now the fabric is going through these rollers.

- 所以，現在織物要通過這些輥子。

So, here's the first pass of dye.

所以，這裡是第一遍染色。

- Huue is still very much in the R&D phase.

- Huue在很大程度上仍處於研發階段。

It's also not the only team trying to solve this problem.

它也不是唯一試圖解決這個問題的團隊。

DyStar, one of the leading producers of synthetic indigo,

DyStar是合成靛藍的主要生產商之一。

has made its die safer for workers and easier to clean.

已經使其模具對工人更安全，更容易清洗。

Others have created indigo free

其他人已經創造了無靛的

of specific contaminants like aniline.

的特定汙染物，如苯胺。

Huue is starting with indigo,

Huue正在從靛藍開始。

but they have their sights set much higher.

但他們的目標定得更高。

- How do we really create that impact

- 我們如何才能真正創造這種影響

into the fashion industry by really going after the 70

通過真正地追求70歲以上的人，進入時尚界。

to 80,000 metric tons of indigo that are created every year,

到80,000公噸的靛藍，每年都會產生。

and then beyond that the many 1,000s of metric tons

除此之外，還有許多1,000多公噸的產品。

of other dyes and colorants that are used

使用的其他染料和著色劑的情況

in so many other industries.

在如此多的其他行業中。

And so, our real focus right now is really

是以，我們現在真正的重點是

putting our solution

將我們的解決方案

into the full industrial manufacturing scales so

進入完整的工業製造規模，是以

that we can start to deliver material

我們可以開始提供材料

into the fashion industry, and hopefully,

進入時尚行業，並希望。

be in everyone's next pair of jeans.

在每個人的下一條牛仔褲中。

- [Matt] Indigo is only one part, albeit a huge one,

- [馬特]靛藍只是一個部分，儘管是一個巨大的部分。

in the massive supply chain that churns out billions

巨大的供應鏈產生了幾十億的收入。

of pairs of jeans each year.

每年都有大量的牛仔褲。

It's a world that's largely hidden from consumers.

這是一個在很大程度上對消費者隱藏的世界。

- I think we, as a society, would really benefit,

- 我認為我們，作為一個社會，將真正受益。

like every consumer, would benefit

像每個消費者一樣，將受益於

from just having a little bit more awareness

來自於更多一點的意識

about the materials that are going into our clothes

關於進入我們衣服的材料

in the same way that people pay attention

就像人們注意到的那樣

to what ingredients go into the food that we consume.

對我們所消費的食物中含有哪些成分。

I think this is exactly the same.

我想這是完全一樣的。

(funky relaxing music)

(時髦的放鬆音樂)

- [Matt] Of course, companies and regulators have a role

- [Matt]當然，公司和監管機構也有作用。

to play too, and there are voluntary efforts

也有一些自願的努力

to eliminate hazardous chemicals from apparel manufacturing.

以消除服裝生產中的危險化學品。

There's also new legislation on the table that aims

此外，還有新的立法，旨在

to make the fashion supply chain more transparent.

以使時裝供應鏈更加透明。

- To turn this industry around,

- 要扭轉這個行業的局面。

we need to have it regulated.

我們需要對其進行監管。

With the oil and gas industry,

與石油和天然氣行業。

we don't just talk about innovation.

我們不只是談論創新。

We talk about the need for regulation.

我們談到了監管的必要性。

- [Matt] But none of this means you need to go out

- [Matt]但這都不意味著你需要出去

and buy the cleanest, most sustainable pair

併購買最清潔、最可持續的一對

of jeans out there.

褲子。

- I love denim.

- 我喜歡牛仔褲。

I think it's a wonderful product.

我認為這是一個美妙的產品。

It can be slow fashion.

它可以是緩慢的時尚。

If you value it, you can buy a pair of jeans, and hopefully,

如果你重視它，你可以買一條牛仔褲，希望如此。

you can wear them for the next 10 years.

你可以在未來10年裡一直穿著它們。

Like, cross my fingers that fashion doesn't move

就像，交叉我的手指，時尚不移動

on super quickly.

在超級快速的情況下。

- So, while we wait for this revolution

- 是以，在我們等待這場革命的同時

in denim technology to arrive,

在牛仔褲技術到達。

we can always buy fewer jeans,

我們總是可以少買一些牛仔褲。

continue wearing the jeans we already own,

繼續穿我們已經擁有的牛仔褲。

wash them less, and donate them when we're done using them.

少洗，用完了就捐出去。

You can wash them before the donation part.

你可以在捐贈部分之前清洗它們。

Oh, smurf hands. - [Producer] Oh, my gosh!

哦，藍精靈的手。- [製作人]哦，我的天啊！

- [Producer] Oh.

- [製片人]哦。

- [Producer] Oh, yeah, I would go rinse that.

- [製片人]哦，是的，我想去沖洗一下。

- Always make sure your gloves fit tightly.

- 始終確保你的手套緊緊貼合。