It's one of the fastest-growing varieties

它是增長最快的品種之一

in the United States.

在美國。

We're headed to Springside Cheese,

我們要去斯普林塞德奶酪。

one of the longest-running factories in northeast Wisconsin,

這是威斯康星州東北部營運時間最長的工廠之一。

and a family operation.

和一個家庭經營。

Like most cheeses, Colby starts with a giant vat of milk,

與大多數奶酪一樣，科爾比奶酪從一大桶牛奶開始。

a starter culture, and rennet.

一種啟動培養，和凝乳酶。

But after that, things get a bit more unique.

但在這之後，事情就變得有點獨特了。

Jesse: What happens is, when you have grass-fed cows,

傑西：發生的情況是，當你有草食牛的時候。

the milk is a little bit more yellowish or darker in color.

牛奶的顏色有點偏黃或更深。

Medha: The cows aren't fed a grass diet,

梅德哈。奶牛不是以草為食的。

which means the milk they create is closer to white

這意味著他們創造的牛奶更接近於白色

than the yellowish color Colby cheese is expected to be.

比預期的科爾比奶酪的黃色要好。

Jesse: This will turn it orange.

傑西：這將使它變成橙色。

Medha: Oh! OK, great.

梅達。哦！好的，太好了。

Jesse: It's from an evergreen tree in South America.

傑西：它來自南美洲的一種常青樹。

Medha: But it makes it orange?

梅達。但它會使它變成橙色？

Jesse: Yep, it helps with that.

傑西：是的，它對這個有幫助。

Keeps it that orangish color. It's kind of an appeal.

保持著那種橙黃色的顏色。這算是一種吸引力。

Medha: Wisconsin is home to 1.3 million dairy cows

梅德哈。威斯康星州有130萬頭乳牛

and has about 25% of the United States' dairy farms.

並擁有美國約25%的奶牛場。

The state is the biggest producer of cheese in the US.

該州是美國最大的奶酪生產地。

In 2021, two Wisconsin lawmakers introduced a bill

2021年，兩名威斯康星州立法者提出了一項法案

to make Colby the state's official cheese.

使科爾比成為該州的官方奶酪。

Springside Cheese has been making its Colby here

斯普林塞德奶酪公司一直在這裡生產其科爾比奶酪

in Wisconsin since 1982.

自1982年以來，在威斯康星州。

The mild cheese gets its name

溫和奶酪的名字來源於

from the town of Colby, Wisconsin,

來自威斯康星州科爾比鎮。

where Colby cheese was created in the late 1800s.

19世紀末，科爾比奶酪在這裡誕生。

After being stirred,

被攪拌後。

the coagulated mixture is given about 30 minutes

將凝固的混合物放置約30分鐘

to set into the perfect firmness for Colby cheese.

凝結成科爾比奶酪的完美硬度。

Then it's time to cut it into curds.

然後就可以把它切成凝乳了。

This is done with harp paddles.

這是用豎琴的槳聲完成的。

While they may just look like paddles with holes,

雖然它們可能只是看起來像帶孔的槳。

they're actually lined with extremely sharp blades.

它們實際上是由極其鋒利的刀片組成的。

Jesse: What we're trying to do is

傑西：我們想做的是

we're trying to get it down to the ideal size.

我們正在努力把它縮小到理想的尺寸。

Medha: OK.

梅達。好的。

Jesse: So it can have a -- again,

傑西：所以它可以有一個 -- 再次。

we're looking for fat retention.

我們要找的是脂肪保留。

We're also looking for moisture.

我們也在尋找水分。

So a little bit bigger curd

所以有點大的凝結物

will give you a little bit more moisture.

會給你帶來更多的水分。

Medha: After being cut,

梅德哈。被砍之後。

the curds are given time to form a skin.

凝乳有時間形成皮膚。

Jesse: You're building the skin

傑西：你在建造皮膚

on the outside of the curd.

在凝乳的外面。

Medha: Of the curd? OK.

梅達。凝乳的？好的。

Jesse: After it's been cut, we ripped it apart,

傑西：在它被切割後，我們把它撕開。

now it's taking its time to heal itself back up.

現在它正在花時間恢復自己的身體。

We want to be able to keep

我們希望能夠保持

as much moisture as possible in the product.

在產品中儘可能多的水分。

So we give it a lot longer to heal up

所以我們給它更長的時間來癒合

than what we would normally do in other products.

比我們在其他產品中通常所做的要好。

Medha: That extra moisture

梅達。額外的水分

is key to the Colby-making process.

是科爾比製造過程的關鍵。

The more moisture that goes in,

進入的水分就越多。

the sweeter and less acidic the final cheese will be.

最後的奶酪會更甜，酸度更低。

As the curds are cut with harps,

由於凝乳是用豎琴切割的。

they are separated from the whey.

它們與乳清分離。

After about 20 minutes,

大約20分鐘後。

it's time to once again cook the freshly cut curds.

是時候再次烹煮新切的凝乳了。

Jesse: When you first start it out,

傑西：當你剛開始的時候。

the curd is very fragile and soft,

凝乳是非常脆弱和柔軟的。

and it'll pop very easily.

它將非常容易彈出。

Medha: And it's actually getting pretty hot now.

梅德哈。而且現在其實已經很熱了。

I can feel it.

我可以感覺到它。

Jesse: So, we're cooking up to a target temperature.

傑西：所以，我們正在烹飪到一個目標溫度。

As it stirs up, it's slowly cooking the curd up.

隨著它的攪動，它正在慢慢地把凝乳煮熟。

So it's almost like searing a steak.

所以這幾乎就像烤牛排一樣。

You're searing that moisture into the curd.

你要把這些水分燒到凝乳中。

It's shrinking it up, and it's stiffening the curd up.

它使它收縮，使凝結物變硬。

It's giving it more body.

這讓它有了更多的身體。

After we get done cooking it, we'll continue to stir it,

煮完之後，我們會繼續攪拌。

and it'll get stiffer and stiffer.

而且會變得越來越僵硬。

Medha: The curds are stirred

梅德哈。凝乳被攪拌

and cooked for 20 minutes.

並煮了20分鐘。

Then it's time to check on their firmness.

然後是檢查它們的牢固程度的時候了。

How do you measure it?

你如何衡量它？

Are you literally just going to scoop up the curd?

你真的只是要把凝乳舀出來嗎？

Jesse: Yeah, we'll feel it.

傑西：是的，我們會感覺到它。

Medha: OK.

梅達。好的。

Jesse: That's the only way to really do it,

傑西：這是真正做到的唯一方法。

is feel it by hand.

是用手去感覺它。

Medha: When the curds reach the right firmness,

梅達。當凝乳達到適當的硬度時。

they're separated from the whey.

它們與乳清分離。

Once the whey has been removed,

一旦乳清被去除。

the curds are given about 30 to 45 minutes

凝乳約30至45分鐘。

to settle into the right pH.

以沉澱到合適的pH值。

Then it's time to add cold water to the vat.

然後是在大桶中加入冷水。

But there's no set amount of water to add.

但沒有固定的加水量。

Instead, Jesse and his team will stop the water

相反，傑西和他的團隊將阻止水

when the curds reach a specific temperature.

當凝乳達到一個特定的溫度時。

Jesse: 92.5.

傑西：92.5。

OK.

好的。

87.6.

87.6.

Medha: That 87.6 is key

梅德哈。那87.6是關鍵

to the making of Springside's Colby cheese.

對斯普林塞德的科爾比奶酪的製作。

Jesse: One, we want to slow the starter down,

傑西：第一，我們想讓啟動器慢下來。

so it's not developing as fast.

所以它的發展速度沒有那麼快。

We also want to add moisture,

我們還想增加水分。

so the curd will pick up moisture from the cold water.

所以凝乳會從冷水中吸收水分。

Medha: Slowing the acidification is also important,

梅達。減緩酸化也很重要。

as that is what makes Colby sweeter

因為這是使科爾比更甜的原因

and milder than other cheeses.

而且比其他奶酪更溫和。

When the vat hits the target temperature,

當大桶達到目標溫度時。

the entire contents are drained into a basin.

將全部內容排入一個盆中。

It will be agitated some more to prevent clumping.

將再進行一些攪拌，以防止結塊。

Once the mix hits a certain pH,

一旦混合物達到一定的pH值。

it's time to drain the water and whey.

是時候排出水和乳清了。

Jesse: It'll all drain down towards the port.

傑西：它將全部流向港口。

As it drains down to the port, we'll pull that.

當它排到端口的時候，我們就把它拉出來。

We'll work it back in,

我們將把它重新納入。

and then we'll start to work the cheese with the forks.

然後我們將開始用叉子加工奶酪。

We're just stirring it.

我們只是在攪動它。

We're trying to keep it from lumping together.

我們正在努力使其不至於混為一談。

Medha: OK.

梅達。好的。

Jesse: So the goal is to keep it as granular as possible.

傑西：是以，目標是儘可能地保持細化。

Medha: Lift it up?

梅達。把它抬起來？

Jesse: Yep, just lift it up.

傑西：是的，只要把它抬起來。

[Medha groans]

[Medha呻吟聲]

Medha: I have to do it this way. I'm a righty.

梅達。我必須這樣做。我是個右撇子。

[groans]

[呻吟聲]

It clumps really easily.

它真的很容易結塊。

Jesse: Yeah, it does.

傑西：是的，確實如此。

But, again, that's part of the reason

但是，同樣，這也是部分原因

for adding the salt on.

用於添加鹽的。

We're trying to prevent that.

我們正在努力防止這種情況。

Medha: You all must be so strong!

梅達。你們一定都很堅強!

[Jesse laughs]

[傑西笑]

Medha: All right, so let's feel a curd.

梅達。好吧，那麼讓我們來感受一下凝脂。

Oh, wow.

哦，哇。

I'm holding back on eating this right now.

我現在忍不住要吃這個。

It's very soft, and you were saying,

它非常柔軟，而你在說。

as we press it it's going to get even softer than this?

當我們按下它時，它將變得比這更軟？

Jesse: This'll get soft.

這將變得柔軟。

This is kind of where it's going to be, yeah,

這是它要去的地方，是的。

but once we press it -- Medha: It's this texture?

但一旦我們按下它 -- 梅達。是這種質地？

Jesse: But it is a very soft cheese.

傑西：但它是一種非常柔軟的奶酪。

So normally it'd be a lot stiffer, stouter cheese.

是以，通常情況下，它將是一種更硬、更濃的奶酪。

Medha: Yeah, you can tell it's, like, easily,

梅達。是的，你可以告訴它，比如，很容易。

it's, like, moldable.

它，像，可塑。

Jesse: Yep, and you see the moisture

傑西：是的，你看水分

coming off in your hand?

在你手中脫落？

Medha: Yeah, it's very, there's a lot of moisture.

梅達。是的，它非常，有很多水分。

I don't know if you can see it.

我不知道你是否能看到它。

It smells very good.

它聞起來非常好。

Jesse: Yeah.

傑西：是的。

Medha: It honestly feels nutty.

梅德哈。老實說，這感覺很瘋狂。

How would you describe the smell?

你會如何描述這種氣味？

Jesse: It smells to me -- yeah, I guess,

傑西：對我來說，它聞起來 -- 是的，我想。

on a nutty side or more of a dairy side of it.

堅果類的一面，或者更多的是乳製品的一面。

It'll have a milder flavor, be sweeter.

它的味道會更溫和，更甜。

It'll also have a lot of buttery notes in it, so.

它還會有很多黃油味在裡面，所以。

Medha: Oh, butter, that's what I smell.

梅德哈。哦，黃油，這就是我聞到的。

Jesse: Yep.

傑西：是的。

Medha: It's a lot of butter.

梅德哈。這是一個很大的黃油。

Jesse: Yep.

傑西：是的。

Medha: That's why I like it.

梅達。這就是為什麼我喜歡它。

I was like, what is it about this that I like?

我當時想，這是什麼東西讓我喜歡？

Jesse and his team will keep agitating the curds

傑西和他的團隊將繼續攪動凝結物

to remove any excess whey,

以去除任何多餘的乳清。

and then begin to salt them.

然後開始給它們加鹽。

You're salting the curds,

你在給凝乳加鹽。

and what does that do to the curd mixture?

這對凝乳混合物有什麼影響？

Jesse: It helps us in clumping.

傑西：這有助於我們的結塊。

It also stops the bacteria from continuing to develop.

它還能阻止細菌繼續發展。

It slows down your pH,

它減慢了你的pH值。

so it slows down your starter development,

所以它減慢了你的啟動器發展。

so you're not producing as much acid.

所以你不會產生那麼多的酸。

Salt also adds flavor.

鹽也能增加風味。

It keeps it on the sweeter side,

它使它保持在較甜的一面。

'cause we're stopping the starter at a higher pH.

因為我們在較高的pH值下停止啟動器。

Medha: Once salted, the curds are ready to be pressed

梅達。鹽漬後，凝乳就可以被壓制了。

into their final 13-pound longhorn form.

變成它們最後的13磅長角形。

The longhorn will give the cheese its long cylinder shape.

長角形將使奶酪呈現出長圓柱形。

When it's finally packaged,

當它最終被包裝起來的時候。

it may be cut in half to resemble a half moon or a rainbow.

它可以被切成兩半，像一個半月或一個彩虹。

Jesse: When it goes into the press,

傑西：當它進入媒體時。

it's going to lose some of the moisture and whey.

它將會失去一些水分和乳清。

So we'll weigh it up a little bit heavier,

是以，我們會把它稱得更重一點。

and then once it's all done, it'll be 13 pounds.

然後一旦全部完成，將是13磅。

Medha: And then we can see, is that excess whey and water?

梅達。然後我們可以看到，那是多餘的乳清和水嗎？

Jesse: Yep. So that's pressing out of the cheese right now.

傑西：是的。所以，這就是現在壓出來的奶酪。

Medha: So that the only thing that remains are the curds?

梅達。這樣就只剩下凝乳了？

Jesse: The curds, for the most part.

傑西：凝乳，大部分是這樣。

Medha: And a little bit of whey. Yeah.

梅達。還有一點乳清。是的。

After being pressed,

被按下後。

the curds are removed from the horn,

凝乳從牛角中取出。

sealed, put back into the horn,

密封，放回喇叭裡。

and placed in a cooler to age.

並放置在冷卻器中進行陳化。

Jesse: You want to keep it in the horn

傑西：你要把它放在喇叭裡

to maintain that cylinder shape.

以保持該圓柱體的形狀。

Medha: How long does Colby cheese need to age for?

梅德哈。科爾比奶酪需要陳化多長時間？

Jesse: Ideally it'd be four weeks to six months,

傑西：理想情況下是4個星期到6個月。

is the ideal range for it.

是它的理想範圍。

Medha: Compared to cheddar cheese, what's the difference?

梅達。與切達乾酪相比，有什麼區別？

Jesse: Higher pH, higher moisture.

傑西：pH值較高，水分較高。

Medha: And so how long do you have to age cheddar for?

梅達。那麼你要將切達奶酪陳化多長時間？

Jesse: Cheddar you can go 30-plus years.

傑西：切達你可以去30多年。

Medha: That's wild! That's like ...

梅達。太瘋狂了！這就像...這就像...

Colby is a baby compared to cheddar.

與切達奶酪相比，科爾比是個嬰兒。

So, while we wait for the cheese to age,

是以，在我們等待奶酪老化的時候。

let's check in on the ones who made it all possible.

讓我們來看看那些使這一切成為可能的人。

The cows.

奶牛。

Springside gets its dairy from farms like Jagiello Farms,

斯普林塞德的乳製品來自於像賈吉洛農場這樣的農場。

where it actually picks up milk every day.

在那裡，它實際上每天都要去取牛奶。

According to these local farmers,

根據這些當地農民的說法。

Wisconsin cows eat the best diet,

威斯康星州的奶牛吃的是最好的飲食。

so they produce the best milk,

所以他們生產出最好的牛奶。

which makes for the best cheese.

這使得奶酪的品質最好。

The cows are fed a diet

奶牛被餵食的食物

that includes high-moisture corn and a protein mix.

其中包括高水分的玉米和蛋白質混合物。

The final feed is called TMR, or total mixed ration.

最終的飼料被稱為TMR，即總混合日糧。

Kevin: And we have a nutritionist come in.

凱文：而且我們有一個營養師進來了。

Medha: Yeah.

梅達。是的。

Kevin: He comes every two weeks.

凱文：他每兩個星期來一次。

He tests the feed out of the silos

他測試筒倉中的飼料

to tell you what you need

來告訴你你需要什麼

and what they need to add to supplement

以及他們需要添加什麼來補充

to get it up to what the cow needs to milk.

以使其達到奶牛擠奶的需要。

Medha: The cows have to be milked twice a day,

梅德哈。奶牛一天要擠兩次奶。

producing about 50 pounds of milk each time.

每次生產約50磅的牛奶。

Kevin: A cow is like a factory.

凱文：一頭牛就像一個工廠。

What you put into the cow is what you get out of the cow.

你在牛身上投入的東西就是你從牛身上得到的東西。

If you're going to get quality milk,

如果你要獲得優質牛奶。

you've got to have quality feed going into the cow.

你必須要有高質量的飼料進入奶牛體內。

Medha: And this delectable-looking cheese

梅達。還有這個看起來很好吃的奶酪

is one of the things Springside gets out of these cows.

是斯普林塞德從這些奶牛身上得到的東西之一。

Wow.

哇。

This feels more buttery than cheddar.

這感覺比切達乾酪更像黃油。

And it's a little, it's mild.

而且它有一點，很溫和。

It's not that strong.

它沒有那麼強。

I love mild cheeses.

我喜歡溫和的奶酪。

I think mild cheeses are the best.

我認為溫和的奶酪是最好的。

How would you describe it?

你會如何描述它呢？

Do you want to eat with me?

你想和我一起吃飯嗎？

Employee: Sure. I'll eat a piece with you.

僱員。當然，我和你一起吃一塊。

Medha: Wow.

梅達。哇。

And it's so soft.

而且它是如此的柔軟。

This is magnificent.

這是很壯觀的。