It was grown in a lab to look just like the real thing.

它是在實驗室裡生長出來的，看起來就像真的一樣。

There are a lot of questions that people have.

人們有很多問題。

No. 1 question is what does it taste like?

第1個問題是它的味道是什麼？

Narrator: Salmon is one of the most popular fish in the US.

敘述者。三文魚是美國最受歡迎的魚類之一。

And it usually comes from massive farms like this,

而它通常來自像這樣的大規模農場。

which can cause all kinds of environmental problems.

這可能會造成各種環境問題。

Growing it from cells might one day offer an alternative.

從細胞中培養它可能有一天會提供一個替代方案。

It's going to be a long, very hard journey to get there.

這將是一個漫長的、非常艱難的旅程，以達到這個目的。

Narrator: Foods made this way

敘述者。這樣做的食物

aren't yet approved for sale in the US,

還沒有被準許在美國銷售。

or anywhere in the world except Singapore.

或世界上任何地方，除了新加坡。

And even if they were, are consumers likely

即使是這樣，消費者是否可能

to see them on a menu anytime soon?

很快就能在菜單上看到它們了嗎？

We went to San Francisco to try and find out.

我們去了舊金山，試圖找到答案。

For thousands of years, salmon were abundant

幾千年來，大馬哈魚一直很豐富

in what's now North America.

在現在的北美洲。

But in 1866, European settlers in the Pacific Northwest

但在1866年，太平洋西北地區的歐洲定居者

started preserving salmon by canning it.

開始用罐頭保存三文魚。

It was the start of a massive commercial fishing operation.

這是一個大規模商業捕魚行動的開始。

Soon, fisheries were catching millions

很快，漁場就捕獲了數百萬個

of pounds of salmon every year.

每年都有大量的鮭魚。

For a while, the supply of salmon seemed limitless.

有一段時間，鮭魚的供應似乎是無限的。

But it wasn't.

但事實並非如此。

In fact, wild salmon populations were already declining

事實上，野生鮭魚的數量已經在減少了

by the late 1800s, and less a century later,

到19世紀末，一個世紀後就更少了。

some were at risk of disappearing forever.

一些人面臨著永遠消失的危險。

Reporter: Is there a possibility

記者：是否有可能

of salmon becoming extinct at this rate?

在這種速度下，鮭魚會不會滅絕？

Oh, there's no question about it.

哦，這一點毋庸置疑。

Narrator: The idea of farming salmon came about

敘述者。養殖三文魚的想法是這樣產生的

in the late '60s.

在60年代末。

By the early 2000s, around two-thirds of the salmon Americans

到21世紀初，大約三分之二的美國鮭魚人

were eating was grown on farms.

他們吃的東西都是在農場裡生長的。

But that industry comes with its own problems.

但這個行業也有自己的問題。

Farmed salmon are prone to parasite infestations,

養殖的鮭魚很容易受到寄生蟲的侵擾。

which can spread to wild populations.

這可能會傳播到野生種群。

And salmon feed is made partially from other fish.

而鮭魚飼料部分是由其他魚類製成的。

Roughly 12% of all fish caught every year

大約佔每年捕獲的所有魚類的12%。

are turned into feed for fish farms,

被轉化為養魚場的飼料。

and that has a huge impact on global fish populations,

而這對全球魚群產生了巨大的影響。

especially in places like Peru and Senegal.

特別是在祕魯和塞內加爾這樣的地方。

We just need another source of fish,

我們只是需要另一個魚的來源。

and that's what we're here to provide.

而這正是我們在這裡提供的。

Narrator: This is Aryé Elfenbein and Justin Kolbeck.

敘述者。這是阿萊-埃爾芬賓和賈斯汀-科爾貝克。

They cofounded Wildtype back in 2016.

他們早在2016年就共同創立了Wildtype公司。

Narrator: Their goal was to figure out

敘述者。他們的目標是要弄清楚

how to grow a piece of salmon from cells.

如何從細胞中培育出一塊鮭魚。

Aryé: I started to think about a lot of my background

Aryé：我開始思考我的很多背景

in stem cell biology and wondered,

在幹細胞生物學和奇蹟。

do we need animals to have meat?

我們需要動物來吃肉嗎？

Justin: One last piece. Aryé: It's yours.

賈斯汀：最後一塊。這是你的。

Narrator: Wildtype isn't yet letting cameras

敘述者。Wildtype還沒有讓攝影機

inside the lab where it grows the salmon

在培養鮭魚的實驗室內。

because the process is still in development.

因為這個過程仍在發展之中。

Instead, Aryé explained how it all works.

相反，Aryé解釋了這一切是如何進行的。

So the first step for us

是以，我們的第一步是

was to basically isolate the cells.

是為了基本上隔離細胞。

Narrator: Wildtype got the cells

敘述者。野生型得到了細胞

from coho and Chinook salmon.

鮭魚和奇努克鮭魚。

The cells go into a steel tank, like the kind you'd see

細胞被放入一個鋼罐中，就像你看到的那種

in a brewery, with nutrients like sugars and amino acids.

在釀酒廠裡，有糖和氨基酸等營養物質。

The tanks have the right temperature, pH,

水箱有合適的溫度、pH值。

and oxygen level for the cells to grow

和氧氣水準，以便細胞生長

and replicate the same way they would inside a fish.

並以同樣的方式在魚體內進行復制。

But what comes out afterward still looks nothing

但之後出來的東西看起來還是沒什麼

like a piece of salmon.

像一塊鮭魚。

That's where something they call scaffolds come in.

這就是他們稱之為腳手架的東西的作用。

So if the product is going to be a block of salmon,

是以，如果產品是要做塊狀的鮭魚。

we'll create scaffolds that are those same dimensions,

我們將創建與這些尺寸相同的腳手架。

and then the cells will grow into those dimensions.

然後細胞就會生長到這些尺寸。

Narrator: They also help the cells mimic the textures

敘述者。它們還能幫助細胞模仿質地。

of muscle and fat.

的肌肉和脂肪。

The cells attach to the scaffolds and grow

細胞附著在支架上並生長。

into a shape similar to the salmon fillet you

變成類似於你的三文魚片的形狀。

would buy at a store.

會在商店裡購買。

And that, over time, becomes the final product.

而這，隨著時間的推移，成為最終產品。

Narrator: The growing process takes four to six weeks.

敘述者。生長過程需要四到六個星期。

Compare that to the roughly three years it takes

與此相比，大約需要三年的時間

to raise farmed salmon.

養殖鮭魚。

If it's still hard to wrap your head

如果你仍然難以理解

around how this is possible, you're not alone.

圍繞著這是如何做到的，你並不孤單。

Aryé and Justin introduced us to Adam Tortosa,

Aryé和Justin向我們介紹了Adam Tortosa。

a restaurant owner and chef.

一個餐館老闆和廚師。

He works with Wildtype to test how lab-grown salmon looks,

他與Wildtype公司合作，測試實驗室培育的鮭魚看起來如何。

tastes, and feels in real dishes.

在真正的菜餚中的味道和感覺。

Adam: This is crazy that they're growing salmon,

亞當：這太瘋狂了，他們在種植三文魚。

(laughs) to be honest.

(笑)說實話。

Narrator: He says it finally looks

敘述者。他說，它最終看起來

and feels pretty close to the real thing.

而且感覺相當接近真實的東西。

Adam: I think if you like, blindfolded me and had me cut,

亞當：我想如果你喜歡的話，把我的眼睛蒙上，讓我切。

I couldn't tell the difference.

我無法分辨出其中的差別。

This one I would dip in the soy sauce.

這個我會蘸著醬油吃。

Narrator: But it wasn't always this way.

敘述者。但它並不總是這樣。

They walked into the restaurant and brought prototype one.

他們走進餐廳，帶來了原型的一個。

It was kind of wet salmon jerky, maybe.

這是種溼的鮭魚乾，也許。

Narrator: Now, he says even the taste is close.

敘述者。現在，他說連味道都很接近。

Adam: It has the same mouthfeel, same fattiness.

亞當：它有同樣的口感，同樣的脂肪含量。

Narrator: Of course, we had to try it for ourselves.

敘述者。當然，我們必須親自嘗試。

The flavor was mild,

味道很溫和。

but it really did have a texture that was close to salmon.

但它確實有一種接近鮭魚的口感。

I would be happy to serve it to guests right now.

我很樂意現在就把它端給客人。

Narrator: Adam's restaurant is the type of place

敘述者。亞當的餐廳是這樣的地方

where Wildtype hopes to see its salmon one day.

Wildtype希望有一天能在那裡看到它的三文魚。

When you go to the sushi bar,

當你去壽司店的時候。

you're in an exploratory mindset.

你處於一種探索的心態。

The idea was if we're going to introduce a new way

我們的想法是，如果我們要引入一種新的方式

to make this product, why not introduce it in a place

做出這樣的產品，為什麼不在一個地方引進它呢？

where people are already seeking out a new experience?

在那裡，人們已經在尋求一種新的體驗？

Narrator: The company decided to focus

敘述者。該公司決定將重點放在

on raw salmon for its initial product launch.

在其最初的產品發佈中使用生鮭魚。

Justin: When we decided this was the way we wanted to go,

賈斯汀：當我們決定這是我們想走的路。

we had a lot of people on the team thinking like,

我們團隊中的很多人都在想：。

"Couldn't we start with something a little easier?"

"我們就不能從簡單一點的東西開始嗎？"

Because it was very audacious.

因為它是非常大膽的。

Somehow, when I make cut rolls,

不知何故，當我做切好的卷子時。

they look not as good as this.

他們看起來沒有這個好。

Aryé: I can never get it quite right.

Aryé: 我總是不能完全正確。

Justin: You can taste oceanic notes, not the funky fish flavor.

賈斯汀：你可以品嚐到海洋的氣息，而不是那種古怪的魚味。

Justin: These fancy dishes are hard to eat from.

賈斯汀：這些花哨的菜很難吃到。

Aryé: This is just one starting point for the wide variety

Aryé：這只是一個起點。

of different flavors that this product is capable of.

這個產品能夠提供的不同口味。

Narrator: But there are still two big problems.

敘述者。但仍有兩個大問題。

The first is that it isn't even legal

首先是它甚至不合法

to sell cell-cultured foods in the US.

在美國銷售細胞培養的食品。

That's because the FDA is still figuring out

這是因為美國食品和藥物管理局仍在弄清楚

how to regulate foods that are made like this.

如何監管像這樣製作的食品。

And that process just takes time, right?

而這個過程只是需要時間，對嗎？

To share how the technology works

分享技術的運作方式

and just get the people who oversee the safety

而只是讓監督安全的人

and security of our food system very comfortable

我們的食品系統的安全非常舒適

with our inputs, our processes.

與我們的投入，我們的過程。

Narrator: But it's unclear when the FDA

敘述者。但目前還不清楚美國食品和藥物管理局何時

will make a decision.

將做出決定。

We hope it'll be soon.

我們希望能儘快。

Narrator: The second challenge is cost.

敘述者。第二個挑戰是成本。

Aryé: A couple pieces of nigiri these days

阿列伊。這些天吃了幾塊炸豬排

would probably cost 40 or 50 bucks, ballpark.

可能要花40或50美元，大致如此。

Narrator: That's the production cost,

敘述者。這就是生產成本。

which means if they started selling it right now,

這意味著如果他們現在就開始銷售。

the cost for consumers would be even higher.

消費者的成本會更高。

Justin: Nobody's ever created and scaled a company

賈斯汀：沒有人創造並擴大過一個公司的規模

like this before, and we're trying as hard as we can

之前，我們正在儘可能地努力嘗試

to move that along, but it is really hard.

來推動這一進程，但這真的很困難。

Narrator: Wildtype says as they scale up,

敘述者。Wildtype邊說邊擴大規模。

the costs will come down.

成本將下降。

But building large, sterile facilities is expensive,

但是建造大型無菌設施是很昂貴的。

and some journalists who have covered the industry,

和一些報道過這個行業的記者。

like Joe Fassler, say we shouldn't expect labs

像Joe Fassler這樣的人說，我們不應該期待實驗室的發展。

to create competitively priced products anytime soon.

很快就能創造出具有價格競爭力的產品。

I think the more realistic voices I talk to

我認為與我談話的人越是現實的聲音越多

in this space understand that it may be decades

在這一領域中，人們瞭解到，可能是幾十年

before these products are anything more than a novelty

在這些產品只是一個新奇的東西之前

for the wealthy.

為富人服務。

Narrator: It's a challenge that doesn't seem

敘述者。這是一個看起來並不容易的挑戰。

to have scared investors away.

將投資者嚇跑了。

Wildtype recently raised $100 million,

Wildtype最近籌集了1億美元的資金。

with reported investments from some big names

據報道，一些大公司的投資

like Leonard DiCaprio and Jeff Bezos,

像倫納德-迪卡普里奧和傑夫-貝佐斯。

even though a survey of US consumers showed

儘管一項針對美國消費者的調查顯示

that only 19% were eager to try cell-cultured foods.

只有19%的人渴望嘗試細胞培養的食品。

Adam: This is New Zealand farmed salmon.

亞當：這是紐西蘭養殖的三文魚。

It's what we use in the restaurant in San Francisco.

這就是我們在舊金山的餐廳使用的東西。

This is the Wildtype salmon.

這就是野生型鮭魚。

Joe: I think lab-grown meat at the moment

喬：我認為目前實驗室培植的肉類

is incredibly divisive.

是令人難以置信的分裂性。

There are some things that really recommend it,

有一些事情確實值得推薦。

and there are some things that are potentially drawbacks.

而且有一些東西是潛在的弊端。

And there's also just a lot that we don't know.

而且還有很多我們不知道的事情。

Narrator: Aryé and Justin say they

敘述者。Aryé和Justin說他們

don't expect lab-grown salmon to become the only option.

不要指望實驗室培育的鮭魚成為唯一的選擇。

Aryé: Our goal is to provide a new source of fish,

阿列伊。我們的目標是提供一個新的魚的來源。

to take the pressure off our oceans.

以減輕我們海洋的壓力。

Narrator: Lab-grown salmon

敘述者。實驗室培育的三文魚

is still a long way from that goal.

離這個目標還有很長的路要走。

Justin: But I think at the end of that road lies very nutritious,

賈斯汀：但我認為在這條路的盡頭是非常有營養的。

very accessible foods that are built on 21st-century values.

非常容易獲得的食品，建立在21世紀的價值觀之上。