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  • This is a black and white cookie.

  • Topped with dark chocolate icing on one half

  • and vanilla on the other,

  • it's a classic dessert that is only made

  • right here on the East Coast.

  • If you grew up in New York,

  • chances are you've seen black and white cookies

  • at shops dotted across the state.

  • Today, we visit Zaro's Bakery,

  • a company that ships its cookies nationwide,

  • to get a behind-the-scenes look at the making process.

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  • can sell 100,000 cookies each year.

  • While recipes may vary from shop to shop,

  • the cookies are always slathered

  • with rich chocolate icing on one side

  • and vanilla on the other.

  • Here in New York City, you're likely to find

  • a flatter, denser, vanilla cake-like cookie

  • with a smooth, shiny fondant icing.

  • Meanwhile, in upstate New York,

  • Massachusetts, and Connecticut,

  • don't even think about calling them black and whites.

  • The cookies here are the half-moon variety.

  • And although these cookies have made quite the footprint,

  • it's the New York City style that's made its claim to fame.

  • Grabbed a couple of black and whites.

  • And a black and white cookie for me.

  • Medha: The recipe is simple.

  • It starts off with ingredients like oil, eggs,

  • and lots of sour cream.

  • Michael: We use sour cream. It helps to

  • tenderize the cookie and keep it moist and soft,

  • and it also gives it a little bit of sour flavor.

  • Medha: Is the purpose of the sour cream

  • also to make it that spongelike texture?

  • Michael: Yes, it will. It helps.

  • It certainly helps with the texture.

  • Doing great.

  • Medha: Good! OK, we did it.

  • It's messy and fun. [laughs]

  • Next comes the whole milk.

  • Michael: We're adding milk again, more fat.

  • Keeping it creamy, keeping the cookie soft,

  • and helping to maintain that cakey texture.

  • Medha: The dry ingredients consist of baking soda,

  • baking powder, salt, and natural vanilla flavor.

  • But the key to black and whites

  • is to add enough flour so the batter holds shape.

  • What ingredients in this

  • make it more like a cake consistency

  • versus a cookie consistency?

  • Michael: Well, we use a combination of AP flour

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  • We do use honey.

  • But those are the ingredients that we use

  • to really keep it moist and fluffy, like cake.

  • Medha: Why honey? Michael: It's something,

  • we've used honey for a long time.

  • Honey does help cake and cookies to retain moisture

  • better than just regular sugar will.

  • Medha: It smells really good.

  • Michael: This mixer is,

  • it's got to be 50 years old, at least.

  • And it's one of these machines that, you know,

  • they don't make them like this anymore.

  • For some reason, when we've tried to mix

  • our black and whites in some of the other mixers,

  • we've not gotten the result we like.

  • Medha: And what's that result?

  • Michael: A soft, airy, well-mixed, beautiful cookie.

  • Medha: As soon as the flour mixture is complete

  • and has zero clumps, bakers move on

  • to the making of the fondant.

  • Michael: It's icing sugar and water,

  • for the most part.

  • And then the chocolate is icing sugar, water,

  • and cocoa powder for color and chocolate flavor.

  • There are some slightly different ingredients

  • within the icing sugar that help it to set up.

  • We've used the fondant as long as I've been alive.

  • Our great-grandfather decided

  • that was how he was making them.

  • I do think it was more of a New York City,

  • East Coast way to make the cookie.

  • Maybe New Yorkers don't have time to carry around

  • a black and white cookie with buttercream on top.

  • It would make too big of a mess. It could be.

  • Medha: All right. Do you need help?

  • Michael: I would love some help.

  • [Medha grunts]

  • Michael: Yeah, it's about 50 pounds.

  • Medha: It's a little smoky.

  • Michael: So, we are going to mix the icing sugar

  • for about four minutes at a very low speed

  • to beat out any lumps and make sure

  • it's nice and smooth and ready to take liquid.

  • I am setting up another timer now for four minutes.

  • And on that four minutes,

  • we are going to pour the water through the grate,

  • into here, as it mixes slowly on first speed.

  • It's getting there. You could see in the center,

  • see how it's starting to get shiny?

  • Medha: Yeah.

  • Michael: That's what we're looking for throughout.

  • Medha: And so if it was a chocolate fondant,

  • you would put cocoa powder as the last step?

  • Michael: Correct. You get a different flavor,

  • but they're the same base.

  • Medha: What do you prefer?

  • Michael: Chocolate. All the way.

  • Medha: Yeah. Me too, me too.

  • Michael: I'm a chocolate lover.

  • Medha: It kind of has a sticky texture to it.

  • Michael: It does. It will be very sticky.

  • It will have a stringiness to it.

  • We're looking to get a very nice coating,

  • where you're not seeing the bottom of the cookie.

  • Medha: And how long did this process take

  • your great-grandfather to develop?

  • Michael: When he came from Poland,

  • he came from Poland as a trained baker.

  • So somebody in Poland trained him

  • and taught him how to bake.

  • Medha: Once the icing is at its optimal thickness,

  • bakers store the icing at ambient temperature

  • in small buckets.

  • Michael: It's naturally cool at this point.

  • We keep it at room temperature.

  • The ambient around here stays at about 68 degrees.

  • We make about 400 pounds.

  • Well, sadly, during the times of the pandemic,

  • we're making about 100 pounds a week.

  • Before the pandemic, we were probably making

  • 500 pounds of icing a week.

  • Medha: This is fun.

  • Michael: So you can see the consistency, right?

  • Michael: Yeah, it's very nice.

  • It looks like frosting,

  • but you can tell that if it stayed on a cookie,

  • it has more of a sticky consistency.

  • Michael: The longer we wait to do this,

  • the harder it will get to get out of this bucket.

  • Medha: How long can the fondant last?

  • Michael: It can last a couple of weeks.

  • It's basically just sugar and water,

  • so it can sit out.

  • Medha: Oh, my God.

  • All these things are much harder than they look.

  • Michael: Yes, it's very true.

  • I'm sure in every place you go, they usually are.

  • Medha: Yeah.

  • It looks heavenly to eat.

  • And it does have a thicker consistency than frosting,

  • and it's definitely stickier.

  • Michael: This just came out of the mixing bowl.

  • And as you saw, when we were pulling it out,

  • it was still pretty viscous and liquid. It had flow to it.

  • You can see the flow is now stopping,

  • and it's starting to solidify.

  • Medha: Oh, yeah.

  • Michael: And this will get, it will never get hard,

  • but it will get to a point where it's set up and dry,

  • and you could touch it and it won't leave fingerprints,

  • it won't leave marks.

  • And then underneath,

  • you'll have a little bit of kind of tender,

  • more tender icing underneath.

  • And so that's why it's time-sensitive

  • to get it out of the bowl.

  • 'Cause if we left it in the bowl,

  • from the top down, it will continue,

  • wherever is in the air will continue to harden.

  • Medha: So, we are making the chocolate icing,

  • and I can already smell the cocoa.

  • Can you talk about the chocolate fondant, anything special?

  • Oh, my God.

  • Michael: My desire to bathe in it?

  • Is that acceptable to say on television,

  • or no? Medha: [laughs] Yes.

  • Michael: What we're doing right now is warming the fondant

  • so that we can manageably spread it.

  • Because the longer you wait,

  • that same setup process will happen again.

  • So it will cool down, it will get harder,

  • and then you'll get inconsistent spread on each cookie.

  • You know, full transparency, I'm not good at this.

  • Medha: That's OK.

  • Michael: But what the basics of it are

  • is we're going to scoop up some fondant.

  • You're going to wipe it across this way.

  • You're then going to come back this way,

  • toward you, to get a nice clean line.

  • You want to get a good line right down the center.

  • And then you go back one more time and you clean the edge.

  • It's really important we put the white fondant on first.

  • Medha: Why?

  • Michael: And we let the white fondant go on, it sets up.

  • And the reason we do it is so that

  • you get a really nice clean line.

  • If you try and put them on at the same time,

  • this line tends to bleed.

  • Medha: And I only get a little bit, right?

  • Michael: That's perfect.

  • OK, so you can go, that's fine, go toward you.

  • Now keep it the same way, and then go away from you again.

  • Medha: Like this?

  • Michael: You want to spread out to, like, here, if you can.

  • Yeah, yeah, yeah.

  • Then go back one more toward you

  • and spread a little further that way.

  • Not bad.

  • Spread there a little.

  • Medha: It's too thick. Michael: That's not bad! No!

  • Hey, for your first time, it's pretty good.

  • I'm very impressed.

  • Medha: Thank you so much. Michael: Very impressed.

  • Medha: There you go.

  • Why is it important to frost the bottom of the cookie?

  • Michael: The cookies bake this way.

  • So they get deposited, and almost like a cake,

  • you get this little kind of crown on top of them.

  • That's how they bake.

  • You just don't get that really pretty edge

  • and that beautiful separation between the two.

  • It's much harder on the round side of the cookie.

  • We believe in the tradition to this,

  • and we like doing them by hand.

  • Medha: The vanilla fondant has hardened,

  • and now we're adding the chocolate,

  • and it's a little bit more of a test

  • because we've got to get that perfect line.

  • I think that line is solid.

  • Michael: Yeah. There's a little too much on,

  • but that's OK. It's going to taste really good.

  • All right, so go for it.

  • Medha: Do you want me to do this one?

  • Michael: Yeah, absolutely.

  • Medha: OK.

  • If you were to bake all this again,

  • what part of the process would you enjoy the most?

  • Michael: I would go with the eating part.

  • Medha: I never heard of black and white cookies

  • prior to coming to New York.

  • Michael: Where did you grow up?

  • Medha: I live in Midwest, like Chicago.

  • Michael: OK, that makes sense.

  • Medha: But I read online somewhere

  • that the Midwesterners call them harlequins.

  • Michael: Really? Medha: Yeah.

  • And then do you know of the German version of this?

  • The Amerikaners?

  • Michael: Yes, I have read about them,

  • and it's very similar.

  • Medha: Yeah, it was brought over there

  • with the soldiers during World War II,

  • and they brought over this cookie.

  • And so the German soldiers were like,

  • "Oh, it's the Amerikaner cookie."

  • Michael: Our family lore is that our great-grandfather

  • had a customer who'd come in with two small children

  • who couldn't afford to buy two cookies.

  • One liked vanilla, one liked chocolate.

  • My great-grandfather started doing icing

  • one half vanilla and one half chocolate.

  • Medha: Your brother actually was telling us

  • everyone has a different story on how they eat the cookie?

  • Michael: Yes. I generally take mine,

  • and if I'm going to eat the whole cookie,

  • I'll kind of work from here,

  • as I prefer the chocolate.

  • If I'm sharing the cookie, I usually break off

  • the vanilla and give it to somebody else,

  • and I eat the chocolate.

  • Like, my wife loves the vanilla, and I like the chocolate,

  • and so we're a good black and white pairing.

  • Fill it up, we'll get as much as we can in here.

  • Medha: Oh, my God.

  • Michael: Try and get low on it.

  • Medha: All these things are

  • much harder than they look.

  • Michael: Yes, it's very true.

  • And I'm sure at every place you go,

  • they usually are. Medha: Yeah.

This is a black and white cookie.

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How Black And White Cookies Are Made In NYC | Regional Eats

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    林宜悉 發佈於 2022 年 03 月 17 日
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