字幕列表 影片播放
-
[contemplative music]
-
- You have to work with flavors
-
and smells and touch and sight,
-
but you also have to hear what's going on.
-
That balance of all five senses
-
sort of is a tipping point
-
where you can do just about anything.
-
With our candy, we look back in time.
-
We go back to the 1800s, the Victorian period.
-
Many of our bits of equipment were made in that time period.
-
We're pretty much the only one who has started up again,
-
using this sort of equipment,
-
tracking it down and restoring it.
-
Today we're gonna be making sugarplum drop candies,
-
eggnog image candies, and peppermint candy canes.
-
First, we do the candy canes.
-
The first thing we do is we cook the sugar.
-
It's mixed with water and we're boiling all the water out.
-
We need to use two sugars
-
to interrupt the crystallization process,
-
sucrose and glucose.
-
If we just used sugar and water, when it hardened,
-
it would turn back into table sugar, it'd become granular.
-
- [Uri] Hot pot!
-
- [Greg] We have a team of five candy makers here
-
at Lofty Pursuits.
-
Uri and Jake were working with me today.
-
Everybody in the store knows when we make peppermint candy
-
because peppermint has a weird reaction to your skin.
-
It makes you feel cool.
-
- [Uri] Anybody who was, in any way, slightly congested
-
or had any letter of allergies at this point,
-
they will not after that.
-
- [Greg] Twenty-five pounds of candy canes
-
only take less than an ounce of peppermint oil.
-
When we make candy with multiple colors in it,
-
we add the food coloring on the table.
-
We do this so we can segment
-
and separate the different areas of color.
-
One of our specialized tools doesn't look like it's a tool.
-
It's a giant table.
-
The top is made out of a half-inch piece of steel
-
and has a water circulation system in it.
-
We use it to rapidly cool the hot sugar.
-
Where it comes in contact with the table
-
will cool off quickly.
-
But the bits not in contact don't cool that fast.
-
So, by folding the candy together,
-
we get to even out the heat
-
and pick the temperature we want.
-
We may want it to act more like a liquid
-
or more like a solid or somewhere in between.
-
- [Uri] Yeah, we're getting real close to stretch time.
-
- [Greg] Next, we make the amber sugar white.
-
This is a hand-wrought iron hook.
-
It's thicker than most of the other hooks that we encounter.
-
And this lets it radiate the heat better
-
so the candy is less likely to stick to the hook.
-
We have several hooks in the store,
-
but the one that I used today came from a store
-
called Mullane's, which was opened in 1848 in Cincinnati.
-
We changed the amber into white.
-
We pulled it about 75 times.
-
Each time we folded it, it trapped air bubbles
-
on the inside.
-
Those air bubbles are great
-
because those little round bubbles reflect light
-
back out and the random light
-
that they reflect appears white.
-
Then we start making the stripes on the heating table.
-
- [Uri] Make sure my stripes are super even in sickness.
-
- [Greg] Candy canes didn't always have stripes.
-
The first candy canes were white.
-
Actually, if you look at Victorian greeting cards,
-
which is the best way to look at the history of candy canes,
-
'cause they showed up on them,
-
it wasn't until the late 1800s the first stripes came out.
-
And this is partially because people thought
-
of peppermint as a white color.
-
- [Uri] I just wait for these two
-
to actually get stuck together.
-
- [Greg] One of the things about candy
-
that we have to be careful with is the colors
-
will migrate from one point into another.
-
In the candy canes, if they're too hot,
-
the red would actually bleed into the white parts
-
of the candy.
-
We don't want this to happen.
-
We do this by controlling the temperature
-
and the only way we can really tell the temperature
-
at this point is by feel.
-
We know how stiff the candy needs to be.
-
And that just comes with practice.
-
- [Uri] Here we come!
-
- [Greg] The batch roller twists the candy
-
as it forces it down the taper.
-
We don't want it to go too far, but it's kinda useful
-
in this case, to a point, because it puts the spiral
-
on the candy cane.
-
- [Uri] The first candy cane is born.
-
- [Greg] We add a spiral with our hands,
-
but we do it at the machine first.
-
Then we add the hook on the candy cane.
-
The hook on the top of the candy cane is made by bending it.
-
If you think of this, it's behaving like a tube.
-
The inside white is softer than the outside,
-
so we have to bend it very carefully.
-
We use our hands in a very similar way to a tube bender
-
that a plumber uses.
-
Then we have a little guide we use
-
to make sure they're all a consistent size.
-
And that's how we make candy canes.
-
Next, we'll make the drop candy.
-
[candy shatters]
-
We start the process the same,
-
boiling the sugar and adding the flavor.
-
The sugarplum is a drop candy where everything
-
is the same color.
-
Everything else we did used multiple colors.
-
Because of this, we could cheat a little.
-
We could add the coloring and the flavoring
-
in the pot at the same time.
-
- [Uri] Hot pot!
-
- [Greg] And when we poured it on the table,
-
we could pour it thinner and over a larger surface area
-
so it'll cool faster.
-
It just speeds up the candy making process.
-
We can tell by the texture of the sugar
-
the temperature of the sugar
-
and then we add the citric acid
-
'cause citric acid will burn if the sugar's too hot.
-
And the citric acid is the acid
-
that makes the flavors right.
-
Most of these flavors come with no acid in them
-
and most fruits have acid in it.
-
- [Uri] Just gets impossibly thin.
-
- [Greg] The problem with teaching candy making
-
is it's all about touch.
-
[hands clap]
-
The consistency changes constantly.
-
There's one point that we wanna cut it.
-
We wanna cut it when the outside is hard
-
and the inside's still liquid
-
so we can average out the temperatures.
-
- [Uri] You can see it's starting
-
to become a little bit more compact.
-
- [Greg] But then when we wanna manipulate it,
-
we want it more of a clay consistency
-
when we're doing the initial shape,
-
but we want it to get harder to keep the shapes
-
once it's done.
-
It went from a liquid to now it's behaving
-
like a non-Newtonian fluid.
-
And that means that right now it's flowing like a liquid,
-
but if you put a lot of pressure in it,
-
it would behave like a solid.
-
I still have a pair of scissors from my great-grandfather
-
when he was a tailor and they probably
-
took two weeks of salary to buy,
-
but he kept them for a lifetime
-
and he died before I was born.
-
The things that I own here for this candy making,
-
I don't feel like I'm an owner of,
-
I'm just a caretaker of, because they're gonna be here
-
generations after me and I have to preserve them
-
for the candy makers that follow me.
-
This is 150 year old equipment.
-
The machine is a fruit drop roller.
-
We're doing this by passing the candy through it
-
and getting out the shape at the other end.
-
Today, we use the diamond shape.
-
The diamond candy not only looks pretty,
-
but gives eight surfaces to be in your mouth
-
so the flavor spreads faster.
-
So we like this for subtle flavors like the sugarplum.
-
These candy machines haven't changed much
-
in the last 150 years.
-
They were developed by Thomas Mills & Brothers
-
in Philadelphia.
-
These machines are made out of cast iron.
-
They weigh 20 or 30 pounds each
-
and the rollers are solid bronze.
-
Everything needs to be non-stick on this
-
and, like a cast iron skillet,
-
we've made a non-stick by working in oil to the surface.
-
- [Uri] I'm gonna pre-cool some chunks over here.
-
- [Greg] The candy comes out of the machine
-
onto the candy cooling table.
-
Water is being sprayed on the underside of the top.
-
Can't have water on the candy, would make it sticky.
-
This freezes the candy in place
-
as soon as it comes out of the machine.
-
The rollers get it into the shape,
-
but it's the table itself that cools it off.
-
We slide it across the table when it's still behaving
-
about the consistency of shoe leather.
-
It's not rock-hard yet.
-
The sheet of candy comes out connected by sugar,
-
which we call flash.
-
The flash holds the candy together
-
when it comes to the machine,
-
but now we need to get rid of it.
-
We need to break the pieces apart.
-
And we do that by dropping the candy.
-
[candy shatters]
-
The last thing we have to do is get rid
-
of all the sugar dust, the remnants of the flash.
-
We have to do this because the candy, under its own weight,
-
just like glass to a certain point,
-
will fuse back to itself.
-
Various candy makers use different things.
-
I just use an old fryer that we bought for this purpose.
-
And that's how we make drop candies.
-
Finally, we'll make the eggnog cut rock image candy.
-
We start the process the same,
-
boiling the sugar and adding the flavor.
-
- [Uri] Hot pot!
-
- [Greg] I call it image candy,
-
the correct term is cut rock.
-
It was originally invented in Blackpool, England.
-
It's also sometimes called Blackpool Rock.
-
- [Uri] Mmm, smells like pink.
-
- [Greg] Blackpool rock is sold in a big piece
-
with the art all the way through,
-
like a stick of rock, they call it.
-
What we're doing is we're taking it to bite-sized pieces,
-
which is the cut rock part.
-
Okay, then, let's go. Let's go and get it.
-
The metal of the equipment's important.
-
All of our metal is mild steel, not stainless.
-
Stainless steel, because of the very nature
-
that makes it not rust, is not magnetic.
-
Sugar likes to stick to things
-
that are the same temperature as it.
-
And the table, if it heats up,
-
will become sticky to the candy,
-
the bars, if they heat up too much,
-
will become sticky to the candy.
-
With the image candy present, we needed the inside
-
to be cold because we needed to keep the detail in place.
-
I say we should move 'em to the table right about now.
-
- [Uri] I was gonna say, my piece is good.
-
I don't know if yours is.
-
- [Greg] Mine's a little hot, but we have time to cool it.
-
And I did this by cooling off the corners of the presents.
-
But we want the outside hotter so that that candy
-
can slide around it, share its heat, and stretch it out
-
so the image will scale.
-
You think that's enough or a little more?
-
- Put a little bit more. - Put more.
-
Like that?
-
One of the fun things about the image candies,
-
it's possibly the most creative candy we do
-
and some of the most complex.