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  • ♪ (soaring string music) ♪

  • ♪ (ambient music) ♪

  • David Doubilet: Unseen, unknown, mysterious.

  • Beautiful and existence,

  • city in the sea.

  • The richest part of our planet.

  • It was paradise.

  • (applause)

  • Good evening!

  • What we want to show tonight

  • is basically a year.

  • A year in photography.

  • And we will take you on a journey,

  • mostly under seas,

  • from the boiling hot tropics,

  • the volcano-laced tropics,

  • to the cold water, to the ice,

  • to the arctic.

  • And I think I may share

  • a little bit about us.

  • We work as a team. We're together 24/ 7,

  • which is--

  • We are married, you know.

  • Yes, we are married.

  • But it's a good partnership.

  • Jennifer has always said

  • that I have this teenage crush

  • about Papua New Guinea.

  • But 18 years ago, it's now 18 years ago,

  • I was in a place called Kimbe Bay,

  • I was there for the total of six days.

  • And in those six days I made

  • some very serious, wonderful pictures.

  • And I had to go back, I had to go back.

  • But the years passed and suddenly...

  • The phone rang and it was...

  • It was the office

  • and they said to me,

  • "You. You have been selected

  • to participate, to contribute

  • in the 125th anniversary issue,

  • David: the photography issue

  • of the National Geographic magazine ."

  • They said, "You can go anywhere you want,

  • shoot anything you want."

  • And I said to myself, "Kimbe Bay," ding!

  • And so we had an assignment.

  • But here's a problem that all of you share right now

  • and that problem is 'Where the hell is Kimbe Bay?'

  • (audience laughter)

  • David: Well, Kimbe Bay is in the Coral Triangle.

  • And the Coral Triangle is where, on this planet,

  • the most bio-diverse, the most numbers

  • of fish, coral and of course, invertebrates live.

  • This was a perfect assignment.

  • What could possibly go wrong?

  • Hmm.

  • The whole story's had a cloud over it.

  • Boiling dark cloud.

  • The monsoon is still going on.

  • The wettest March and April since 1970.

  • The batteries are smoldering, stinking and burning.

  • Your camera's on fire.

  • It nearly burnt the place down.

  • Strobes flood.

  • A GoPro floods.

  • Gone.

  • We lose another light.

  • The electronics are scrambled.

  • Torrential rains.

  • And kaboom!

  • Another $3,000.

  • Charger blows up.

  • Like this place has it in for us.

  • Mosquitoes are buzzing around our heads.

  • You don't have to worry about the bends,

  • you have malaria.

  • And as of two days ago, a cyclone.

  • Guinea is eating us up and spit us out.

  • And this story was supposed to be a gift,

  • an easy, beautiful story.

  • Funny, all these years, all these stories,

  • every place we've gone to we're sort of

  • reluctant to leave.

  • But it's over now.

  • So say goodnight Buffalo Bob.

  • Goodnight Buffalo Bob.

  • Well, the one sunny day.

  • David: This is what this place looked like.

  • It's an absolute paradise.

  • Deep water with these wonderful sea mounds

  • rising from thousands of feet, almost to the surface,

  • and surrounded by volcanoes.

  • And here's this mysterious lake

  • called Dok Toek, the forbidden lake.

  • No foreigners, nobody but tribesmen

  • can go to this lake because it's full of spirits

  • and crocodiles.

  • The offshore reefs, like this incredible place

  • called Kimbe Bomi and they were far offshore,

  • two and a half hour boat rides every day.

  • Hundred and twenty-five feet down at the top of the reef.

  • They were like absolute gardens,

  • these deep, underwater volcanoes.

  • ♪ (melodic music) ♪

  • David: Bradford is the most spectacular dive here.

  • There's a sea mount called Bradford Shoals.

  • It rises up from the deep,

  • it is rounded, steep-shouldered

  • and has an immense school of chevron barracuda,

  • which swim around in great circles,

  • almost making funnel-shaped clouds.

  • Around they go, spooling upwards.

  • When fish move in a circular pattern,

  • they create the rarest thing in the sea

  • which is a geometric pattern,

  • a place that has no corners, no edges.

  • Geometry in a place of weightless chaos.

  • ♪ (melodic music continues) ♪

  • And then the barracudas would form these immense,

  • circular tornado-shaped towers,

  • David: going from basically the bottom of the reef

  • all the way to the surface,

  • sometimes 70, 80 feet high.

  • Look at this.

  • And here's Jennifer on the side

  • of one of these towers.

  • The first time we landed on this sea mount,

  • called Joelles, it was raining fish.

  • Jennifer Hayes: They were isolated, they were unfound,

  • they were untouched.

  • And they were de facto marine protected areas.

  • They just had no sense of humans

  • and one of the scariest things

  • and in-your-face conservation I have ever seen

  • was a group of fishermen in a single boat,

  • what they call a banana boat

  • and they had found Joelles reef

  • and they had anchored on it

  • and they had been on it all night fishing.

  • And the minute they saw our boat coming,

  • they cut their line and they sped off.

  • And it turns out when we went down,

  • all we found were hooks and fishing line,

  • and half or more of the fish were gone.

  • All of the pinjalo snappers.

  • Every pinjalo snapper was gone.

  • This is one night on one small piece

  • of real estate in the ocean that was wiped out.

  • And the next day when we were

  • in the Kimbe Bay market there were the pinjalos.

  • And it shows you how fragile,

  • first off it shows us how marine protected areas

  • work and function and then it shows us

  • how vulnerable these places are.

  • David: There's small things on this reef.

  • I have to tell you, anemones and clownfish,

  • it's one of the most beautiful friendships in the sea.

  • The anemones protect the clownfish's eggs,

  • protect the clownfish at night

  • with its stinging tentacles.

  • The clownfish protects the anemones

  • from being nibbled to death by butterfly fish.

  • But Joelles has this wonderful collection

  • of anemones and toward the evening

  • they ball up like this

  • and the clownfish begin to burrow in their stomachs.

  • I also managed to photograph spawning.

  • Here are the big female clownfish.

  • And the female is the dominant partner

  • in this relationship.

  • If the female dies, the largest male

  • turns into a female and begins to produce eggs.

  • They're producing eggs right now.

  • And that purple curtain in the background

  • is the side of the anemone.

  • We dove with sharks.

  • (ocean waves)

  • ♪ (ambient chime music) ♪

  • ♪ (ambient chime music continues) ♪

  • We were amazed and shocked

  • and pleased to see sharks in Kimbe Bay.

  • They would meet you when you rolled off the boat

  • and you were like, "This is the way

  • it is supposed to be."

  • So it was just another indicator,

  • another symbol that these reefs had survived

  • where other reefs throughout the Coral Triangle

  • had not done as well.

  • David: We dove on a place called Father's Reef

  • and we met a hawksbill turtle.

  • And she met us on every dive.

  • We could swim with her as she made her rounds

  • past schools of barracudas and schools of bat-fish.

  • I love this picture because it looks

  • like the turtle is flying.

  • And then she'd do this amazing thing:

  • instead of going to the surface

  • and going back down to another piece of bottom,

  • she would come and she would rest on our tanks.

  • And she would do this, she would take her flippers

  • and put her flippers around the tank

  • and rest there.

  • Jennifer: It was wonderful, she really was magic.

  • She met us on every dive

  • and she would follow you and when she was tired

  • she would rest on you.

  • And it was a magic moment.

  • But it was also a terrifying moment

  • in terms of that makes this particular animal

  • very vulnerable.

  • The local fishermen there, they fish the reefs

  • that they can find and they harvest anything

  • they can find on the reefs,

  • from reef fish to turtles.

  • And we would be diving, a local banana boat

  • comes up and with a group of people,

  • the young man swims down the turtle.

  • "How much, how much, how much?

  • You buy, you buy, you buy.

  • Would you like to buy?"

  • Your gut inclination is for a handful of dollars

  • is to buy that turtle,

  • take it to the next coral sea mount

  • and let it go.

  • But you can't do that

  • because you're setting up a trade, an economy.

  • They'll go catch another turtle

  • and they'll come back to you again.

  • Or they'll go catch the same turtle

  • and bring it back to you.

  • We were in a tiny empire.

  • A perfect, tiny coral empire.

  • And we needed, we needed to have an image

  • of coral.

  • A panorama.

  • A shot that said, "This is this coral world."

  • Built of tiny polyps, beautiful in existence,

  • city in the sea.

  • This picture isn't the one we wanted.

  • David: And we kept looking and we kept searching.

  • David: A place called an Ann-Sofie.

  • It's a group of islands at the tip

  • of the Williamez Peninsula.

  • And there's one little island,

  • it's not even an island,

  • it's an island with a bunch of trees on it

  • and sort of a lone palm tree.

  • And it has in one corner of it,

  • a field in very, very shallow water.

  • David: In less than a foot there is a field

  • of beautiful purple-laced coral intermingled

  • with a cropper coral and stagnant coral.

  • David: It's absolutely beautiful.

  • And we worked there and photographed

  • David: a picture half and half out of the water.

  • One of the things I particularly liked to do.

  • And as we were working a father and son came up

  • in a dugout, they were fishing there.

  • We give them lunch later on.

  • (indistinct chatter)

  • Jennifer: We'll see Anton and his papa again.

  • ♪ (gentle guitar music) ♪

  • Whoa! Big fish!

  • (indistinct chatter)

  • It was one of those lovely days

  • where everything worked out.

  • We made another dive, we went home.

  • Boiling clouds, complicated skies of Walindi

  • and its tiny little island.

  • That's the kind of pictures I really like to make.

  • David: Here's the picture.

  • We recently published a story

  • in the National Geographic magazine

  • on the gulf of St. Lawrence.

  • Jennifer: It was a very challenging story

  • but very near and dear to our hearts.

  • We live on the St. Lawrence river

  • in a region called The Thousand Islands.

  • This is our neighborhood.

  • David: Yeah, this is not our house, incidentally.

  • Jennifer: This is, people ask us all the time.

  • We live in an area surrounded by 1,800 islands,

  • storybook castles and an amazing creature

  • Jennifer: called the sturgeon.

  • There are 27 species of sturgeon in the world.

  • They're all in the northern hemisphere.

  • All 27 of them are falling flat on their face

  • because they are long-lived;

  • they live to be over 100, sometimes 200.

  • Get this: they don't spawn until they're

  • about 25 years old.

  • And then, not even every year after that.

  • it's every five years.

  • So 25, 30, 35 and you can see,

  • all of a sudden, when you put the pressure

  • of fisheries on a species like this,

  • Jennifer: how these stocks are collapsing.

  • And these sturgeon are very shy,

  • they like deep water,

  • they're very rare to see underwater most of the year,

  • except for one week in the month of June,

  • thousands of them gather and they meet

  • on these spawning beds.

  • This particular type of rock, in very fast water.

  • This water is like washing machine water,

  • it is about a four knot current.

  • Right now I am behind a big giant rock

  • trying to stay out of the current.

  • And these girls, these are all girls waiting to spawn,

  • just ignoring me because they're

  • all pumped up on hormones.

  • Any other time of the year I couldn't get near them.

  • Jennifer: And the sturgeon are a unique fish.

  • They are so ugly, I think they're beautiful.

  • I would marry a sturgeon if I could marry a sturgeon.

  • -I married a sturgeon. -See their mouth and barbules.

  • -You did marry a sturgeon. -I married a sturgeon.

  • Oh my God, you did.

  • These barbules, see these four things.

  • Those are called barbules

  • and they have all these chemosensory ability

  • and they go along the bottom

  • and they brush past something

  • and they say, "I can eat that."

  • And womp! Down comes its mouth.

  • Have you ever seen a mouth like that?

  • (audience awes)

  • David: Past Quebec the river becomes an estuary.

  • And a little past there the Saginaw River

  • joins the St. Lawrence and there's a population

  • David: of beluga whales.

  • Beluga whales are the white whales,

  • the canary whales.

  • They sing and they burble

  • and they make a lot of noise.

  • And this guy came right up to me

  • and kind of blew me a kiss,

  • it went bloop!

  • A little bubble came out.

  • (audience laughter)

  • David: And then the whale did this marvelous thing.

  • He tried to eat the camera.

  • (audience laughter)

  • Jennifer: There used to be 10,000 beluga whales

  • in the St. Lawrence.

  • It can support up to 10,000.

  • And then they were fished; they were killed,

  • because all the fishermen thought that they

  • were competing for fish so they were slaughtered.

  • And then it got down to a handful of thousand.

  • And just weeks ago a report came out and said,

  • "No, no, no, no. We are down to 800."

  • And what is happening

  • is there's high infant mortality.

  • The problem is they don't know what

  • is causing the infant mortality.

  • So the Department of Fisheries

  • and the Canadian scientists

  • are now in scramble and panic mode

  • to figure out how to preserve these 800 belugas.

  • They are precious and they are almost

  • a symbol of the St. Lawrence.

  • David: And don't forget,

  • we are in French Canada, French Canada.

  • And I photographed crabs.

  • David: Crabs mating.

  • (French accent) In French Canada it is not just mating

  • but is L'Amour ; love.

  • (audience laughter)

  • They do this for weeks and weeks

  • at a time, you know.

  • (David laughing)

  • (speaking foreign language)

  • Après, après l'sex, after l'sex comes l'cigarette.

  • (audience laughing)

  • Jennifer: Gimme that.

  • Oh my God.

  • Jennifer: The gulf of St. Lawrence

  • freezes in the winter time

  • and it becomes the world of the harp seal.

  • They are nursed by their mothers

  • for about 12 days.

  • Then they're abandoned,

  • they're left on the ice to figure out

  • how to become a harp seal.

  • How to feed, how to swim,

  • how to do anything and everything.

  • Jennifer: In 2011, when this picture was made,

  • it took us three days by boat to get to the ice.

  • It kept moving, there was so little ice in the gulf.

  • And we located a patch and a field of ice

  • and it had 10,000 seals.

  • And this is what 10,000 seals begins to look like.

  • And we can give you an idea of what it's like

  • in the world of the harp seal.

  • That's its umbilical there.

  • A newborn.

  • Three days old, with the mother in the back.

  • (baby seal crying out)

  • A very nervous mother.

  • (baby seal cries)

  • Still a very nervous mother.

  • To me, they're one of the most beautiful creatures

  • on the planet.

  • For the first 12 days of their life,

  • when they're called the white coats,

  • they look almost like a stuffed toy.

  • (audience oohs and awes)

  • And once in a while you'll see a blind one.

  • And it's very sad because they'll come up to you,

  • thinking you're their mother.

  • They're desperate,

  • without that particular sensory.

  • And after 12 to 15 days they begin to molt

  • and they begin to shed their white coat

  • and become what's called a beater.

  • And at this point they are also eligible

  • to enter the hunt.

  • The Canadian seal hunt still goes on.

  • There's a lower quota

  • and they cannot take the white coats

  • but they can take the beaters.

  • Jennifer: And David has found a beater.

  • And I find a pup peering through the ice,

  • looking for his mom.

  • He sees me, he's like, "No."

  • (audience laughs)

  • Mom is behind me,

  • going a little crazy now because I'm between her

  • and her pup.

  • She rushes past me and she greets her pup

  • and she coaxes him into the water.

  • They meet with this underwater nose-to-nose,

  • I call it a kiss of recognition. (kissing sound)

  • It's like smooch, are you my mom?

  • Are you my pup or are you an impostor?

  • And while we're swimming the pup is very curious.

  • What are you? Who are you?

  • What's going on? Who are you?

  • And he would try to swim towards me,

  • he would get a little close

  • and the mother would come up

  • and literally hold him down, "No."

  • And eventually she allowed him to get a little closer

  • and he gets so close and he scrabbles.

  • He begins to climb up on my--

  • Here you come be the seal, you're there.

  • -So he begins to do this. -I'm the seal.

  • And then he climbs up onto me,

  • I'm the raft, I'm the ice.

  • And now he's on my chest, he's tired

  • and he's on my chest.

  • And he's nosing my mask like he did his mom.

  • Like I'm the impostor, I am the impostor.

  • Jennifer: We swim along and we move

  • into this very open water.

  • Now we're resting, we're all stopped.

  • Then something nips my left ankle,

  • then something nips my right ankle.

  • And I look down and there's 30 or 40

  • male harp seals circling below me.

  • A male comes up over my back,

  • pushes me down,

  • his penis gets caught in my mask (audience laughs with disgust)

  • taking it off with him.

  • The mask drops, we're in 3,000 feet of water.

  • I see it, I grab it.

  • Got my camera here

  • and the male is going down below me

  • and the female sweeps past

  • and she goes down and the mother

  • is beating the crap out of this male.

  • (audience laughs and applauds)

  • The mother surfaces,

  • she surfaces and she's grunting and snorting

  • (heaving noise)

  • and she comes back and I'm thinking,

  • "I'm not sure what's going to happen now."

  • But she comes back and she uses her head

  • and her flipper and her entire body

  • and she kind of scoops up her pup.

  • Kind of using everything she's got.

  • And she kind of gets him in front of her.

  • And then she uses her flipper, her nose,

  • her body and she scoops me up.

  • (audience laughs)

  • -Now... -Super mom.

  • The pup and I were being propelled.

  • Herded through the water,

  • out of this open area where we had

  • all the males beneath us.

  • I ducked underneath and I watched the mother

  • and the pup disappear.

  • I'm pumped up on adrenaline,

  • I'm ecstatic, I'm excited,

  • I go to the edge of the ice

  • and I throw my camera up.

  • And I'm taking off my weight belt

  • and just as I'm taking off my weight belt,

  • right at the edge of the ice a male harp seal

  • comes under the edge of the ice

  • and he bites me square in the groin.

  • And he lets go.

  • And then he bites me square in the thigh.

  • Wonk! And he lets go.

  • And I have a very, very memorable scar

  • from all of that.

  • But it's not the scar and it's not the male

  • that I would ever or want to or will dwell on.

  • It is the female and her reaction.

  • Jennifer: And I will say the world of the harp seal

  • has been a changing world.

  • David and I were on our way back to shore,

  • a storm came up and the ice was so bad, so weak,

  • (Jennifer: deep breath in)

  • that when the storm came through,

  • it wrecked the sea ice and 10,000 pups perished.

  • Every one of them died.

  • They had 100 percent mortality of the gulf seals

  • in that particular year.

  • This past year in 2014 was a big ice year.

  • That's a relief, we had a relief year,

  • because we had had three to four

  • almost full-on 100 percent mortality years.

  • So it is a shifting world for our climate there.

  • And what I want to close on is David and I go back

  • every year now.

  • We have become addicted to the ice.

  • -We feel-- -Extraordinary place.

  • We go back every year

  • and what we're trying to do

  • is create a shifting paradigm

  • away from hunting into a model of ecotourism.

  • Now we can take some people up

  • and we take a week

  • out of the harp seal hunting boat.

  • We buy a week, we buy another week,

  • we buy another week.

  • And hopefully we'll show them a different economy.

  • An ecotourism-based economy

  • where we can take the pressure off the hunting.

  • And with that I would like to thank you all for coming.

  • You've been an incredible audience.

  • (applause)

  • ♪ (gentle string music) ♪

  • (English US - SDH)

♪ (soaring string music) ♪

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國家地理現場!--大衛-杜比萊特和珍妮弗-海斯:從島嶼到冰川的故事。 (National Geographic Live! - David Doubilet & Jennifer Hayes: From Islands to Ice)

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    稲葉白兎 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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