Name: 為什麼主教總是穿著奇怪的長袍？主教的服裝演變史（Why the pope dresses like that）
Uploaded: 2022-02-15T21:01:20.000Z
Duration: 6 min 18 s

Pope Francis has developed a reputation for being a bit... unconventional.

天主教教宗方濟各一直有著不循規蹈矩的名聲。

Since his papacy began in 2013, he's done away with ring kissing.

自從他在 2013 年上任教宗以來，他就免除了吻手禮的禮節。

Pope Francis used the simple white chair.

方濟各教宗坐上了簡單的白色椅子。

Refusing to use his bulletproof vehicles.

He's broken a ton of centuries-old traditions, pushing for modern updates across the Catholic church.

他打破了數不清的百年傳統，並將天主教會往更加現代化的方向推進。

But it's not just what Pope Francis does that sets him apart from past popes; it's what he wears.

但方濟各教宗不只是形式風格與其他教宗有所不同，就連他的穿衣風格都獨樹一格。

From elaborate embroidered scenes to more subtle color cues, papal clothing has always been laden with symbolism.

從精心縫製的刺繡到更加暗示性的色彩選擇，教宗的服裝總是充滿著象徵意涵。

And it's is how Pope Francis communicates some of his most basic beliefs and intentions.

而這就是方濟各教宗傳達他大部分的基本信念與意圖的方式。

Most of the time, Pope Francis wears this.

大部分的時間方濟各教宗會穿這套服裝。

When greeting crowds, meeting dignitaries, basically anything other than performing mass.

在面對群眾、接見各國政要等任何除了彌撒的場合以外。

It's made up of a cassock, an ankle length coat.

這套服裝包括一套法衣，一種長及腳踝的大衣。

A zucchetto, which translates to "skullcap" for obvious reasons.

一頂小瓜帽 (zucchetto)，直譯的意思為「頭蓋帽」。

And this, a pellegrina: a cape of sorts. Which, unfortunately, often blows in the wind, prompting an ongoing heated debate over whether or not to add Velcro.

還有名為 pellegrina 的一種披肩。這件衣物很常會在強風吹拂下飄起，因此引發了到底該不該縫塊魔鬼氈在上面的爭論。

Anyway, the pope's clothing is roughly the same as a cardinal's below him, or bishops below them.

無論如何，教宗的著裝大致上與在他之下的樞機主教，還有樞機主教之下的主教們差不多。

Except, all of the pope's clothing is, of course, white, the biblical color of angels and Jesus' robes, symbolizing innocence, purity, divinity.

除了教宗的衣服全都是白色的這點之外，而白色在聖經上代表了天使與耶穌長袍的顏色，象徵著無邪、純淨與聖潔。

This outfit has been roughly the same since at least the 1200s, and since the late 1700s, it's even been made by the same family of tailors.

這套衣服最早從西元 1200 年代開始就一直沒有太大變化，而到了 1700 年代末期開始甚至一直是由同一個家族的裁縫們製作的。

But each pope adds their own specific flair.

但每位教宗都會加上自己的特色。

Compare Pope Francis to Pope John Paul II. He was two Popes ago.

讓我們把方濟各教宗與若望保祿二世放在一起比較吧。他是兩代以前的教宗。

We couldn't find a Pope Benedict doll, probably because he wasn't pope for very long.

我們沒有找到本篤十六世教宗的玩偶，這可能是因為他就任的時間不長的關係。

Even in doll form, the differences are easy to see.

就算只是紙上談教宗，我們仍能明顯看出差異。

Pope Francis' fascia is plain, instead of being fringed and bearing his coat of arms.

方濟各教宗的腰帶簡潔，而不像另一位有著流蘇與自己的紋章裝飾。

And his crucifix is iron, as opposed to gold.

他的十字架是鐵製的，不像另一位是黃金製的。

Francis also keeps it plain when it comes to outerwear, opting for a white peacoat, instead of the traditional winter mozzetta lined with ermine fur.

方濟各的外衣也同樣保持簡潔，通常選擇穿著一件白色的雙排釦大衣，而不是傳統上內襯為白鼬皮草的肩衣。

That's this extremely cute weasel-like animal.

白鼬是種超級可愛，長得像黃鼠狼般的動物。

And then there's the shoes. Popes usually pick one style of shoes and stick to them.

還有鞋子也是。教宗們通常會一直穿著同一種的鞋子。

Pope Francis wears frugal, black oxfords, paired with black socks. The same shoes he wore as a priest and a cardinal.

方濟各教宗穿的是雙樸素的黑色牛津皮鞋，搭配上黑色的襪子。他從做為神父與樞機主教的時候就一直穿著這樣的鞋子。

But before him, most popes opted for white socks and red shoes.

但在他之前，大多數的主教們都選擇穿白色襪子配上紅色鞋子。

JP II wore a dark, burgundy pair, and Pope Benedict famously sported slick red leather loafers, which prompted Esquire Magazine to name him "Accessorizer of the Year" in 2007.

若望保祿二世穿的是雙身酒紅色的鞋，而本篤十六世則以喜歡穿光滑的紅色皮革休閒鞋聞名，甚至還讓他贏得了《君子雜誌》上 2007 年「年度最佳時尚配件穿戴者」的名號。

The red shoes are likely a reference to the blood of martyrs and the passion of Jesus, who is often pictured in red post-resurrection.

紅色的鞋子可能象徵的是殉道者的鮮血與對主耶穌的熱忱，尤其是耶穌常在其復活重生的畫作中穿著著紅色的衣物。

But some claim they're just a holdover from when the rich and powerful wore a lot of red.

但某些人則聲稱，這其實是因為過去有權有勢與有錢人們很多都會穿著紅色衣物的關係。

Because it was expensive and set them apart from common people, which it seems is where a lot of papal garment design originates.

當時紅色衣物既昂貴又能與普通人區隔開來，而這也似乎是教宗衣物上許多設計之所以出現的原因之一。

If you look at the clothing of Byzantine royalty, you'll see a lot of similarities to modern catholic leadership, right down to the red shoes.

觀察拜占庭貴族的衣物，便能看出許多與現代天主教領導層衣物相似的地方，從頭到腳上紅色的鞋子都是。

Pope Francis' choices reflect a desire to distance himself from that history.

方濟各教宗的選擇顯現了他亟欲想甩開與那樣的過去。

He even wears some of the same mass vestments he did as bishop, including, this, his mitre.

他甚至穿著與他在身為主教時穿的一樣的一套祭司服，其中包括他的教冠。

Mitres, essentially foldable hats, have been around in various iterations for at least a thousand years.

教冠基本上就是可折疊的帽子，在至少近千年以來不斷更換形式至今。

Today, they're worn only during mass, not just by the pope, but by cardinals and bishops too.

如今它們只會出現在彌撒會場上，由教宗、樞機與主教們戴在頭上。

No one can really agree on their origin, but they're likely yet another holdover from royal dress.

沒人能完全確定教冠最早是怎麼出現的，但它們很有可能也是從貴族的服裝中傳承過來的一種服裝。

There are a few mass vestments reserved only for the pope, including the pallium, this circular wool band, and sometimes, this thing: a ferula, both references to Jesus as "the good shepherd".

某些彌撒用的祭司服裝則只有教宗可以穿戴，其中包括披帶，也就是這個環形的羊毛頸帶，有時還會包括一根木杖，兩者都象徵著耶穌做為「牧羊人」的身分。

But the main event of the pope's mass attire is the chasuble, essentially a poncho.

但教宗在彌撒時最重要的服裝是祭披，基本上就是一件大斗篷。

This chasuble, white with a minimal gold trim is the first one Pope Francis wore.

這件上面有著少許金飾點綴的祭披是方濟各教宗第一次穿著的祭披。

His choice for his inaugural mass. Traditionally, the time for your showiest chasuble.

這是他在就職彌撒上選擇的穿著。通常來說，這是穿著最華麗祭披的機會。

It's also his chasuble of choice, worn most frequently throughout the year. Even on Christmas, another time popes usually opt for more opulence.

而這也是最喜歡的祭披，在一整年中最常穿的就是這件。就連在聖誕節也是，而這也是通常其他教宗們會選擇比較張揚的服裝的時候。

But over the course of the year, chasuble colors vary according to the church calendar, a schedule all priests roughly follow.

但在一整年下來，祭披的顏色會根據教會年曆而有所變化。所有的教士都會大致依據年來來行事。

Purple, during times of penance, like advent and lent.

紫色用在懺悔的時節，像是將臨期與大齋期。

Green, during times of growth, used throughout quote "ordinary time".

綠色用在成長的時節，也就是所謂的「尋常時節」。

White and gold, symbolizing joy and purity for major celebrations like Easter and Christmas.

白色與金色象徵著喜悅與純潔，則是用在像是如復活節與聖誕節等節慶時期。

Sprinkled in are some Red chasubles whenever sacrifice is celebrated, and a few pink ones.

在其中為數不多的還有用於慶祝犧牲的紅色，還有粉紅色。

Pope Francis usually follows this calendar, but on July 8th, 2013 he wore this: a simple, purple chasuble, even though it was squarely within Ordinary time.

方濟各教宗通常會照著年曆行事，但在 2013 年 7 月 8 日時他穿了這個：一件簡樸的紫色祭披，儘管年曆上來說仍在尋常時節內。

Purple, the color of penance and mourning.

He wore it during a visit to a refugee camp on the Italian island of Lampedusa.

他在拜訪義大利 Lampedusa 島上的一個難民營時穿著這樣的服裝。

While standing atop an altar made of wooden remnants from refugee boats, he delivered a now famous homily that criticized global indifference to the refugee crisis.

當站在由難民船隻的木頭殘骸所打造而成的祭壇上時，他發表了現今相當知名的講道，批評了全球對於難民危機的冷漠態度。

We have become used to the suffering of others: "It doesn't affect me; it doesn't concern me; it's none of my business."

我們對他人所受的苦難感到稀鬆平常：「這又不影響到我；我不擔心這個；這與我無關。」

His clothes represent the church he's working to build: something simpler, more accessible, more modern.

他的服裝代表著他正努力想打造的天主教會：一個更加單純、更平易近人、更加現代化的教會。