And yet this archaic undergarments still dominates high fashion street style and even the cover of vogue.

然而，這種古老的內衣仍然主導著高級時裝的街頭風格，甚至是《時尚》的封面。

So just how did the corset make its way from the waste of mary Antoinette for the modern cultural zeitgeist.

那麼，緊身胸衣是如何從瑪麗-安託瓦內特的廢物中脫穎而出，成為現代文化潮流中的一員的。

I'm Hamish.

我是哈米什。

Bowles vogue's Global editor at large and I'm here to tell you everything you need to know about The corset.

Bowles是Vogue的全球總編輯，我在這裡告訴你所有你需要知道的關於緊身胸衣的資訊。

Legend has it that the introduction or rather mandate?

傳說中，引進或者說授權？

Of course, it wearing came from Catherine de Medici who allegedly brought metal corsets from Italy to France in the 16th century, though, costume historians believe that corsets were initially used to support the spine.

當然，它的穿著來自凱瑟琳-德-美第奇，據稱她在16世紀將金屬胸衣從意大利帶到了法國，不過，服裝歷史學家認為，胸衣最初是用來支撐脊柱的。

The 17th century found women and some men of a certain class and distinction wearing them for well fashioned.

17世紀，人們發現有一定階級和地位的婦女和一些男子穿上它們是很時尚的。

Soon they became the status quo and by the 1830s, the hourglass silhouette for fashionable women and some dandified men was all the rage in Europe and America way before the era of the Kardashian waist trainer.

很快，它們就成為了現狀，到了19世紀30年代，在卡戴珊腰部訓練器的時代到來之前，時尚女性和一些丹鳳眼男性的沙漏形輪廓已經在歐洲和美國風靡一時。

These ladies were in search of an 18" waist with the help of whale bone stays tight lacing and padding, It was a one size fits all solution to creating the perfect figure.

這些女士們在鯨骨支架的幫助下尋找18英寸的腰圍，這是個創造完美身材的一碼事。

Of course, the course it had its critics.

當然，這個課程也有批評者。

By the late 19th century dress reformers argued that corsets were not only morally evil, but dangerous to women's health.

到19世紀末，服裝改革者認為，緊身衣不僅在道德上是邪惡的，而且對婦女的健康有危險。

Some doctors blame the course it's tightness for causing damage to internal organs.

一些醫生指責課程它的緊縮性對內部器官造成了損害。

No wonder that most Victorian women were not smiling in their portraits, But pain wasn't enough to stop the corset on its course, the first decade of the 20th century championed the s curve or health corset, which was lightly boned, un boned or stiffened with chord.

難怪大多數維多利亞時代的婦女在她們的肖像中都不笑，但疼痛並不足以阻止緊身衣的發展，20世紀的第一個十年倡導S型曲線或健康緊身衣，這種緊身衣有輕骨、無骨或用繩索加固。

In other words, slightly less painful.

換句話說，稍微不那麼痛苦。

It forced the torso forward while judging the woman's hips and bottom out behind her.

它迫使軀幹向前，同時判斷女人的臀部和屁股在她身後。

And even more shapes came into the fold in the teens.

而在十幾歲的時候，甚至有更多的形狀進入了這個行列。

In the 19 twenties, paris is king of fashion paul Poiret, for example, rejected the era's s curve, the invention of elastic to allowed for a new tubular corset, which made more sense for the loose flowing dresses of the flapper era.

在19世紀20年代，巴黎是時尚之王保羅-波爾，例如，拒絕了這個時代的s曲線，彈性的發明允許新的管狀胸衣，這對豔舞時代的寬鬆流動的衣服更有意義。

But as with every trend, the comfortable kick of the 19 twenties proved temporary.

但就像每一個趨勢一樣，19世紀20年代的舒適踢球被證明是暫時的。

As the allure of the classic hourglass silhouette became irresistible for designers in the pre and post World War Two era ma'am.

由於經典的沙漏型輪廓的誘惑力對二戰前後的設計師來說是無法抗拒的，夫人。

Bush's late 19 thirties.

布什19歲左右的時候。

Wasp waist design immortalized in photographer Horst, p horst, iconic image and christian Dior structured new look of 1947.

黃蜂腰的設計在攝影師霍斯特，P-霍斯特，標誌性的形象和克里斯蒂安-迪奧1947年的結構性新形象中得到了永生。

Once again, constricted and reshaped women's bodies and redefine the fashion silhouette.

再一次束縛和重塑了女性的身體，並重新定義了時尚的輪廓。

The corset took a backseat to modern waste shifting practices like diet exercise and surgery in the sixties and seventies.

在六十年代和七十年代，緊身胸衣在現代廢物轉移的實踐中退居次要地位，如飲食運動和手術。

It was from here that the use of the course of in fashion went from practical to purely aesthetic Vivienne Westwood's use of the corset was evocative of punk here.

正是從這裡開始，時尚界對胸衣的使用從實用變成了純粹的審美，維維安-韋斯特伍德對胸衣的使用在這裡喚起了朋克。

The course it was used to empower women rather than constrain them and dodging Gabbana's debut corset dress in 1989 updated the undergarment for a modern take on femininity, which went on to define the brand for years to come, jean paul.

它被用來賦予女性權力而不是限制她們的課程，1989年躲加巴納的首次亮相的緊身胸衣連衣裙更新了內衣的現代女性氣質，這在未來的幾年裡定義了該品牌，簡-保羅。

Gautier also took up the course it in his early eighties collections.

戈蒂埃也在他八十年代初的收藏中接受了這一課程。

But his most famous iteration came in 1990 designed for Madonna's blond ambition, tour the peace, ignored soft womanly curves and instead opted for jagged, spikey lines.

但他最著名的迭代是在1990年為麥當娜的金髮雄心設計的，遊覽和平，忽略了柔和的女性曲線，而是選擇了鋸齒狀的尖銳線條。

This was a clear departure in defiance from the patriarchal demands of its forebears and a nod to the B.

這顯然是對其先輩的父權要求的蔑視，也是對B的點頭。

D.

D.

S.

S.

M.

M.

Community and jean paul's grandmother and childhood teddy bear.

社區和Jean Paul的祖母和童年的泰迪熊。

Soon, every designer from christian Lacroix, thierry, Mugler air and alexander McQueen wanted to cause it of their own and they knew just the man for the job.

很快，從克里斯蒂安-拉克魯瓦（christian Lacroix）、蒂埃裡（thierry）、穆格勒（Mugler）和亞歷山大-麥昆（Alexander McQueen）的每一位設計師都想建立自己的品牌，而他們知道這個人正是這個工作的目標。

Mr Pearl, the king of corsetry.

珍珠先生，胸衣之王。

It was Mr Pearl after all, whose controversial course it got kim Kardashian In her head turning Terry Mugler Gown at the 2019 met Gala.

畢竟是珍珠先生，他的爭議性課程讓金-卡戴珊在2019年元旦晚會上穿上了她的轉頭泰瑞-穆格勒禮服。

Today, the court, it is a piece that refuses to remain backstage.

今天，法院，它是一個拒絕留在後臺的作品。

Well under the garment, Kendall, Jenner Dua lipa and Bella Hadid have embraced their own as streetwear, pairing them with baggy jeans and trainers and even over t shirts, they've taken this 17th century relic and turned it into a casual gem, the avant garde interpretations of turmoil, koizumi Christopher, john Rogers and puppets and puppets to showcase that the causes of 2021 is less a stricture and more playful edition to the modern wardrobe.

在服裝下，肯德爾、詹娜-杜阿-利帕和貝拉-哈迪德已經接受了他們自己的作為街頭服裝，將它們與寬鬆的牛仔褲和運動鞋，甚至在T桖上搭配，他們已經把這個17世紀的遺物，變成了一個休閒的寶石，動盪，koizumi Christopher，john Rogers和木偶的前衛詮釋，展示了2021年的原因是不太嚴格的，更像是現代衣櫥的俏皮版。

While the ladies of Bridget in than the tight lacing trends that followed on Tiktok, expand the humorous take on the garment.

雖然布里奇特的女士們在比緊身鞋帶的趨勢，隨後在提克托克，擴大服裝的幽默感。

So where will, of course it go next?

那麼，接下來它當然會去哪裡？

Will it regress into an uncomfortably binding piece of history once meant to similarly shape all wearers?

它是否會倒退成一個不舒服的歷史束縛，曾經是為了類似地塑造所有佩戴者？

Or will it continue to evolve?

還是會繼續發展？

Spanx and skims have replaced?

Spanx和skims已經取代了？

The need for corsetry is painful practices and favor diversified sizing.

對胸衣的需求是痛苦的做法，贊成多樣化的尺寸。

If there's anything we've learned throughout the course, it's history, it's that there's no need to be so uptight.

如果說在整個課程中我們學到了什麼，那就是歷史，那就是沒有必要這麼緊張。