We got this fashion historian.

我們得到了這位時尚史學家。

Hi, I'm risa Britannia and I'm a fashion historian.

你好，我是Risa Britannia，我是一個時尚歷史學家。

To walk us through what the notebook got right and what they got wrong about these looks.

帶我們瞭解筆記本在這些造型上的正確之處，以及他們的錯誤之處。

The notebook is a 2000 and four romantic drama based on a novel by Nicholas sparks of the same title.

筆記本》是一部2000年和四部浪漫劇，根據尼古拉斯-斯帕克斯的同名小說改編。

The film chronicles the love story between Ali Hambleton and Noah calhoun.

這部電影記錄了阿里-漢伯頓和諾亞-卡爾霍恩之間的愛情故事。

Ali and Noah are two teenagers who have a passionate summer romance, only to go their separate ways but rekindle the relationship later as adults.

阿里和諾亞是兩個青少年，他們在夏天有一段激情澎湃的戀情，只是後來分道揚鑣，但在成年後又重新燃起了感情。

The notebook is set in south Carolina and opens in the fictional town of Seabrook during the summer of 1940.

筆記本以南卡羅來納州為背景，於1940年夏天在虛構的西布羅克鎮展開。

It was during the second quarter of the 20th century that saw the advent of the teenager prior to this period.

正是在20世紀的第二季度，看到了這個時期之前的青少年的出現。

There was no distinct phase of life between childhood and young adulthood costume designer Karen Wagner captures this moment in history.

在童年和年輕的成年人之間沒有明顯的生活階段服裝設計師凱倫-瓦格納抓住了這一歷史時刻。

Let's get into the looks first up Team Ollie when we meet Ali Hambleton, she is 17 years old and would be considered a sub debutante, which was a term used for a girl in the years just proceeding her debut into upper Class Society Junior or Sub Deb styles typically featured designs that incorporated playful elements of Children's wear in adult silhouettes.

讓我們先來看看奧利團隊，當我們見到阿里-漢伯頓時，她今年17歲，被認為是一個次元媛，這是對一個女孩在剛進入上層社會之前的幾年使用的術語，初級或次元媛風格的特點是在成人剪影中融入兒童服裝的俏皮元素。

Let's draw this look layer by layer.

讓我們一層一層地畫出這個造型。

Starting with the undergarments.

從內衣開始。

We first see Ali's undergarments in the scene where Noah brings her to the abandoned house.

我們第一次看到阿里的內衣是在諾亞把她帶到廢棄的房子的場景中。

She wears a thin unstructured bra and a pair of high waist panties that resemble shorts.

她穿著薄薄的非結構性胸罩和一條類似短褲的高腰內褲。

These would have been aged appropriate undergarments for a teenage girl, Ali would not likely have been wearing stockings or a girdle at this age, although they were commercially available on the junior lingerie market.

這些應該是適合少女年齡的內衣，阿里在這個年齡不可能穿長筒襪或束腰，儘管它們在初級內衣市場上有商業供應。

Anything else, Ali might however, be wearing a full or half slip.

其他方面，阿里可能會穿上全裸或半裸的衣服。

This would have provided a modesty layer between her undergarments and her dress up Next the dress, allie wears a knee length dress with a floral print and contrast collar, Which would have been accurate for the period.

這將在她的內衣和她的衣服之間提供一個謙虛層。 接下來，艾莉穿著一條長及膝蓋的裙子，上面有花紋和對比領，這在當時是準確的。

Summer dresses for juniors such as this one were typically made from a lightweight printed cotton.

像這樣的青少年夏季連衣裙通常由輕質印花棉布製成。

Ali's dress has short puffed sleeves, which was a distinctive feature of the fashionable silhouette in the late 1930s and early 1940s.

阿里的裙子有短的蓬鬆袖子，這是20世紀30年代末和40年代初時尚剪影的一個顯著特徵。

Up next, the Cardigan, also known as the Bolero.

接下來是開衫，也被稱為波萊羅。

Ali wears a red heavy knit belted Cardigan, which would have been accurate for the 1940s.

阿里穿著一件紅色厚重的針織帶狀開衫，這在20世紀40年代是準確的。

However, it's unlikely that she'd be wearing one on a hot summer night in the south.

然而，她不太可能在南方炎熱的夏夜穿上這身衣服。

Instead, she could be wearing a lightweight cropped bolero.

相反，她可以穿一件輕便的剪裁式長衫。

Let's move on to hair and makeup.

讓我們繼續討論髮型和化妝。

First up hair in this scene, Alley wears her hair in loose curls, but later on, she wears variations of a more historically accurate hairstyle with a softer wave that's pinned back behind the ears.

在這個場景中，艾莉首先將頭髮梳成鬆散的捲髮，但後來她又梳了一個更符合歷史的髮型的變化，將柔軟的波浪夾在耳後。

This style was typically achieved using hair combs, which we see Alley wearing on another evening occasion during the day, she opts for more casual hairstyles like pigtails and braids and her makeup Alley's makeup is for the most part fresh faced and natural for more formal occasions.

這種風格通常是用髮梳實現的，我們看到艾莉在白天的另一個晚上場合戴著髮梳，她選擇了更隨意的髮型，如小辮子和辮子，她的妝容艾莉的妝容在大多數情況下是清新的面容，在更正式的場合是自然的。

She wears a light blush and coral lipstick.

她塗了淡淡的腮紅和珊瑚色的脣膏。

Mhm And finally the accessories starting with the shoes Alley wears wedge sandals, but ones that look very contemporary to 2004 wedge sandals in the 1940s were not quite as high and likely not made of patent leather.

最後是配飾，從鞋子開始，艾莉穿的是楔形涼鞋，但在1940年代的楔形涼鞋看起來非常現代，沒有那麼高，而且可能不是用漆皮做的。

Instead, they would have fabric or straw uppers and a wood or cork sole in the hat.

相反，他們會有織物或稻草鞋面，帽子裡有木頭或軟木鞋底。

Ali would not have been wearing a hat for several reasons, it would not have been required for a girl her age and it wouldn't make sense with the time of day and location.

阿里不會戴帽子，有幾個原因，她這個年齡的女孩不需要戴帽子，而且在當時的時間和地點也沒有意義。

She could however be wearing a small hair accessory like a bow or flower and finally the jewelry she wears, large clip on earrings which add the finishing touch.

然而，她可以佩戴一個小的髮飾，如蝴蝶結或花朵，最後是她佩戴的珠寶，大的夾式耳環，這為她增添了點睛之筆。

Next up Team, Noah ali and Noah come from completely different socioeconomic backgrounds which is amplified through their costumes.

接下來是團隊，諾亞-阿里和諾亞來自完全不同的社會經濟背景，這一點通過他們的服裝得到了放大。

She goes through a dramatic sartorial evolution.

她經歷了一個戲劇性的服裝演變。

While his style of clothing, it remains largely the same.

雖然他的服裝風格，基本保持不變。

Noah probably couldn't afford to purchase fashionable clothing via mail order.

諾亞可能沒有能力通過郵購購買時尚的服裝。

And so the garments we see him wearing were likely purchased from a general store in town.

是以，我們看到他所穿的服裝很可能是從鎮上的一家普通商店購買的。

Let's draw this look layer by layer.

讓我們一層一層地畫出這個造型。

Starting with the undergarments we get to see Noah stripped down to his underwear at several points in the film.

從內衣開始，我們可以看到諾亞在影片中的幾個地方被脫得只剩下內衣。

Lucky us he wears button front boxer shorts, which are accurate.

我們很幸運，他穿的是鈕釦式平角褲，這很準確。

However, they would have been much shorter and worn higher up on the natural waistline.

然而，它們會短得多，而且穿在自然腰線的上方。

Noah also wears a cotton single it which serves as an undershirt.

諾亞還穿了一件棉質的單它，作為襯衣。

It was for practical consideration to help absorb sweat and because undershorts were more easily laundered and replaced up next the shirt, Noah wears a standard button down shirt with long sleeves and a pointed collar.

這是出於實際考慮，以幫助吸收汗水，而且因為內褲更容易清洗，並在襯衫旁邊更換起來，諾亞穿的是長袖和尖領的標準釦子襯衫。

This type of shirt would be made of a lightweight, plain weave cotton like sham bray.

這種類型的襯衫將由輕量級的平紋棉布製成，如sham bray。

However checked and plaid variations were also common during this period.

然而，格子和格子的變化在這一時期也很常見。

Noah wears the top button undone with no tie, which is in accordance with his laid back lifestyle.

諾亞把最上面的鈕釦解開，不打領帶，這與他悠閒的生活方式是一致的。

He also tends to roll up his shirt sleeves, which is common for men in the working class and a habit he continues into adulthood.

他還傾向於捲起襯衫袖子，這對工人階級的男人來說很常見，而且這個習慣他一直延續到成年。

Moving on to the pants.

接著說說褲子。

Mhm.

嗯。

During the 19 forties, trousers sat high on the natural waistline and featured a wide straight leg with a crease down the center.

19世紀40年代，長褲在自然腰線上坐得很高，以中間有摺痕的寬直腿為特色。

Noah's trousers would likely be made of a sturdy cotton twill woven textile like gabardine.

諾亞的褲子很可能是由堅固的棉質斜紋織品製成的，如嘎巴丹。

They would be held up using a belt, which was the more common alternative to suspenders in the early 19 forties, especially among young and working class men Up next the jacket.

他們會用皮帶撐起來，這是在19世紀40年代初比較常見的替代吊帶的方法，特別是在年輕人和工人階級的男人中，在外套旁邊。

Noah wears a plaid wool flannel jacket, which is accurate for a lumber worker in the 1940s, but not in the middle of summer.

諾亞穿了一件格子羊毛法蘭絨夾克，這對20世紀40年代的伐木工人來說是準確的，但在盛夏就不一樣了。

Moving on to the hair.

接著說說頭髮。

Noah wears his hair in a longer style that more closely resembles the shaggy and side swept trends from the early 2000s.

諾亞把頭髮留得更長，更接近21世紀初的蓬鬆和側掃潮流。

During the 1940s.

在20世紀40年代。

Men's hairstyles typically featured a deep side part and trimmed sides in the second half of the film.

在影片的後半部分，男士的髮型通常以深側分和修剪兩側為特徵。

Noah allows his hair to grow even longer and more unkept to reflect his state of mind after he loses alley.

諾亞讓他的頭髮長得更長，更不修邊幅，以反映他失去衚衕後的心境。

This is further emphasized by his scruffy facial hair, which is a dramatic departure from the youthful clean shaven look earlier in the film and last his accessories.

這一點通過他邋遢的面部毛髮得到了進一步強調，這與影片早期年輕時乾淨的剃鬚造型和他最後的配飾形成了巨大的差異。

Let's start with that hat.

讓我們從那頂帽子開始。

Noah's signature accessory is a soft fabric cap with a flat crown.

諾亞的標誌性配飾是一頂平頂的柔軟織物帽。

It looks to be made of wool with a small brim likely stiffened with leather.

它看起來是由羊毛製成的，有一個小帽簷，可能用皮革加固。

Such hats were ubiquitous in the 19 thirties and forties and we're a more casual alternative to the equally popular fedora.

這種帽子在20世紀30年代和40年代無處不在，我們是同樣流行的Fedora的一個更休閒的選擇。

Very cool and the shoes Noah wears a standard pair of sturdy leather lace up shoes.

非常酷，諾亞穿的鞋子是一雙標準的結實的繫帶皮鞋。

These could feature a cap toe or wing tip design and would be a dark neutral color.

這些鞋可以採用帽形腳趾或翼形腳趾設計，並採用深色的中性顏色。

This was probably the nicest pair of shoes he owned worn for his date to the movies with ali.

這可能是他擁有的最漂亮的一雙鞋，為他和阿里約會看電影而穿的。

That's so sweet.

這真是太貼心了。

So what do you think of this overall look?

那麼你覺得這個整體造型如何？

Risa?

瑞莎？

It was of utmost importance that Noah be portrayed as a swoon worthy romantic lead.

最重要的是，要把諾亞塑造成一個令人心動的浪漫主角。

So concessions were made regarding the historical accuracy of his clothing, grooming and chiseled physique.

是以，在他的服裝、儀容和體態的歷史準確性方面做出了讓步。

We'll let that one slide.

我們會讓這一問題得到解決。

Moving on to look three adult Ali.

繼續看三個成年的阿里。

By this point in the film, Ali has fully grown into the role of society woman with access to the latest fashions.

在影片的這一點上，阿里已經完全成長為社會女性的角色，可以接觸到最新的時尚產品。

This part of the film is set early in the post war era, meaning christians.

影片的這一部分設定在戰後初期，意味著基督徒。

Yours.

你的。

New Look had not yet taken hold of the fashionable silhouette.

當時New Look還沒有把握住這個時尚的輪廓。

As a result, her adult looks still bear the hallmarks of World War Two era fashion that was defined by austerity and a focus on accessories over dramatic garments.

是以，她的成人造型仍然帶有二戰時期時尚的特徵，即緊縮和注重配飾而不是戲劇性的服裝。

This ensemble is very casual by comparison, but appropriate given the outdoor setting and the tone of the scene, let's draw this look layer by layer.

相比之下，這套衣服非常隨意，但考慮到戶外環境和場景的基調，這套衣服很合適，讓我們一層一層地畫出這個造型。

Starting with the undergarments.

從內衣開始。

Ali would start with a sculpted breezier and a pair of panties over which she would also wear a girdle.

阿里會先穿上雕刻好的微風衣和一條內褲，在上面還穿上束腰。

The girdle was a foundation garment that smoothed the abdomen and the hips to create the lien fashionable silhouette stockings were fastened to the bottom edge of the girdle via suspender garters.

腰帶是一種基礎服裝，它可以撫平腹部和臀部，創造出連體的時尚輪廓，絲襪通過吊帶固定在腰帶的底邊。

Ali wears a pair of sheer nude colored stockings, Which is a significant clue that helps us determine the year Nylon became commercially available in 1940 and revolutionized the hosiery industry with its strength and sheer nous.

阿里穿著一雙透明的裸色長筒襪，這是一條重要的線索，幫助我們確定尼龍在1940年開始商業化，並以其強度和純粹性革新了襪業。

However, Nylon production was soon diverted to the war effort and stockings were virtually impossible to get a hold of during wartime in an effort to create the illusion of wearing stockings women took to wearing leg makeup and even used their eyebrow pencils to draw a seam up the back of each leg.

然而，尼龍的生產很快就被轉用於戰爭，在戰爭期間幾乎不可能買到長筒襪，為了製造穿長筒襪的假象，婦女們開始化腿妝，甚至用眉筆在每條腿的後面畫上一條縫。

Very interesting.

非常有趣。

Anything else, Ali also wears a full slip in a shade of blue that matches her dress.

別的，阿里還穿了一件與她的裙子相配的藍色調的全襯衣。

This type of undergarment was a few inches shorter than the outer skirt and typically featured lace trimming along the neckline.

這種類型的內衣比外裙短几英寸，通常以沿領口的花邊裝飾為特色。

Moving on to the dress, Ali wears a simple button down short sleeved dress in a soft shade of blue.

接著是裙子，阿里穿了一件簡單的鈕釦短袖連衣裙，顏色是柔和的藍色。

Variations on the classic shirtdress remained fashionable throughout the mid 20th century.

在整個20世紀中期，經典襯衫裙的變體仍然很時尚。

The style lent itself particularly well to wartime era fashion, which was governed by rationing due to fabric shortages.

這種風格特別適合於戰時的時尚，由於面料短缺而受到配給制的制約。

As a result, clothing became more slender, streamlined and unfussy.

是以，服裝變得更加修長、流線型和不挑剔。

Still, the dress that ali wears seems a touch too fitted for the period.

不過，阿里穿的衣服對於那個時代來說似乎有點太合身了。

When skirts had a slight a line shape next the jacket, ali could have a coordinating jacket to wear over the dress to create the look of a suit for adult women during this period, the suit was the norm In daytime apparel, we see ali wearing a smartly tailored one while out and about in the city of charleston.

當裙子在外套旁邊有一個輕微的線條形狀時，阿里可以在裙子外面穿一件協調的外套，以創造出這一時期成年女性的西裝外觀。 在白天的服裝中，我們看到阿里在查爾斯頓市外出時穿著一件剪裁得體的西裝。

It has broad padded shoulders and a nipped waistline, Both of which were defining features of the mid 1940s fashionable silhouette because this scene takes place in a picturesque country setting.

它有寬大的墊肩和緊身腰線，這兩者都是20世紀40年代中期時尚輪廓的決定性特徵，因為這個場景發生在一個風景如畫的鄉村環境中。

The coordinating jacket could be a more casual variation with short sleeves and made of a lightweight fabric, moving on to hair and makeup.

協調的外套可以是一個更休閒的變化，有短袖，由輕質面料製成，接下來是頭髮和化妝。

Let's start with her hair.

讓我們從她的頭髮開始。

When Ali arrives, she sports a soft up do with side swept peekaboo bangs, a style made popular by film actress veronica Lake.

當阿里到達時，她做了一個柔軟的髮型，側面掃了掃劉海，這種風格由電影演員維羅妮卡-萊克（Veronica Lake）流行。

When the US joined the war, veronica was encouraged to start wearing her hair up and out of her face in order to inspire female munitions factory workers to do the same hairstyles in the mid 19 forties tended to be quite sculptural and one popular style called Victory Rolls was said to have been named for an aerial maneuver in which fighter planes would spin horizontally.

當美國加入戰爭時，維羅妮卡被鼓勵開始把頭髮豎起來放在臉外，以激勵軍工廠女工做同樣的髮型，1940年中期的髮型往往是相當有雕塑感的，有一種流行的風格被稱為 "勝利卷"，據說是以戰鬥機水準旋轉的空中機動動作命名。

So fun and the makeup cosmetics also took on wartime monikers, like the shade of victory red lipstick by Elizabeth Arden.

如此有趣，化妝化妝品也採用了戰時的名稱，如伊麗莎白-雅頓的勝利紅脣膏的色調。

Ali's bolder makeup is instrumental in her transformation from spirited teenager to sophisticated adult and finally the accessories, starting with the hat, because clothing tended to be more understated.

阿里更大膽的化妝在她從活潑的少年到成熟的成年人的轉變中起到了作用，最後是配飾，從帽子開始，因為服裝往往更低調。

Due to wartime regulations, There was a particular emphasis on accessories.

由於戰時的規定，這裡特別強調配件。

During the 1940s, hats were not subject to the same strict rationing as clothing and thus emerged as the defining accessory of the decade.

在20世紀40年代，帽子沒有像衣服那樣受到嚴格的配給限制，是以成為這十年中的決定性配飾。

There were several prominent styles in a variety of dramatic shapes, from the small tilt hat that perched on the forehead to the wide brimmed halo hat, which sat back at the crown of the head and framed the wearer's face and the shoes Fashionable shoes of the 1940s featured an elevated platform sole, usually paired with a peep toe and secured with a sling back or ankle strap rubber was requisitioned for the production of military boots.

有幾種突出的風格，有各種戲劇性的形狀，從棲息在額頭上的小傾斜帽到寬簷的光環帽，它坐在頭頂上，框住了佩戴者的臉和鞋子。 20世紀40年代的時尚鞋子以高臺鞋底為特色，通常與透視腳趾搭配，用吊帶或踝帶固定，橡膠被徵用用於生產軍靴。

And so women's footwear designers turned to unconventional materials like wood and cork for civilian shoes, Ali would likely complete her ensemble with a pair of gloves and a coordinating handbag, as she does when she arrives in Seabrook.

於是女鞋設計師們轉而採用木頭和軟木等非常規材料製作民用鞋，阿里很可能會像她來到西布羅克時那樣，用一雙手套和一個協調的手提包來完成她的套裝。

So what do you think of this look?

那麼你覺得這個造型怎麼樣？

Overall?

總體而言？

This look is pretty accurate, however, it lacks the additional layers of accessories that would have completed the ensemble.

這個造型相當準確，然而，它缺乏額外的配飾層，而這些配飾將使這套服裝更加完整。

Any final thoughts, writes it.

任何最後的想法，寫吧。

Designer Karen Wagner takes into careful consideration Each character's socioeconomic background, which enriches the conflict at the heart of the narrative.

設計師凱倫-瓦格納仔細考慮了每個人物的社會經濟背景，這豐富了敘事核心的衝突。

Ultimately, the notebook provides a nostalgic version of the 1940s that doesn't fixate on the details of historically accurate dress.

最終，該筆記本提供了一個懷舊的1940年代版本，並沒有固定在符合歷史的服裝細節上。

This approach makes sense, since it is a heart wrenching love story told in flashback and romanticized by the characters.

這種做法是有道理的，因為這是一個以倒敘方式講述的令人心碎的愛情故事，並被人物浪漫化。

Rose colored memories.

玫瑰色的記憶。

Yeah.

是的。