Name: "クインズ・ギャンビット」ベスの衣裝は歴史のに正しい？ | Vogue JAPAN (「クイーンズ・ギャンビット」ベスの衣装は歴史的に正しい？ | VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-11-15T20:20:38.000Z
Duration: 16 min 55 s

This is Beth harmon, you know her from the Queen's Gambit.

這是貝絲-哈蒙，你在《女王的賭注》中認識她。

You may remember this outfit or this one and of course this one, but are they accurate?

你可能記得這套衣服或這套衣服，當然還有這套，但它們是否準確？

Hi, I'm rice Britannia and I'm a fashion historian to walk us through what the Queen's gambit got right and what they got mostly right about these looks.

大家好，我是米布里塔尼亞，我是一個時尚歷史學家，來帶領大家瞭解一下女王的賭博有哪些是正確的，他們的這些造型有哪些是基本正確的。

The Queen's Gambit is a netflix limited series that chronicles the story of fictional american chess prodigy Elizabeth harmon, also known as Beth as she rises to prominence in the international world of chess.

女王的賭注》是Netflix的一個限定系列，記錄了虛構的美國國際象棋神童伊麗莎白-哈蒙（Elizabeth harmon）的故事，她在國際象棋界嶄露頭角，也被稱為貝絲。

She struggles with alcoholism and addiction and these ups and downs of her journey are visually represented through costume Berlin based costume designer Gabrielle binder illustrates the evolution of the character from troubled orphan too glamorous chess phenom all while creating a distinctive look for the show through the consistent use of color and pattern to achieve this.

她與酗酒和毒癮作鬥爭，她的這些起伏的旅程通過服裝得到了直觀的表現。柏林的服裝設計師加布裡埃爾-賓德（Gabrielle binder）說明了這個角色從麻煩的孤兒到迷人的國際象棋明星的演變，同時通過持續使用顏色和圖案來實現這一目標，為該劇創造了獨特的外觀。

The costume department made most of deaths costumes for the series and use just a few authentic vintage pieces.

服裝部門為該系列劇製作了大部分死亡服裝，只使用了一些真實的復古作品。

The Queen's Gambit spans the 19 fifties and sixties and not only charts the chronological evolution of style, but also the nuances of fashionable dress across different cities.

女王的賭注》橫跨19世紀50年代和60年代，不僅描繪了風格的時間演變，而且還展示了不同城市的時尚服飾的細微差別。

The limited series is based on a 1983 novel of the same name by walter Tevis, in which the protagonist is described as not particularly attractive.

這個有限的系列是根據1983年沃爾特-特維斯的同名小說改編的，其中的主角被描述為不是特別有吸引力。

However, the creators of the television adaptation decided to glam up deaths character, partially due to the insistence of actress Anya Taylor Joy.

然而，電視改編的創作者決定讓死亡這個角色煥發光彩，部分原因是女演員安雅-泰勒-喬伊的堅持。

Let's get into the looks first up, best plaid pinafore.

讓我們首先進入外觀，最好的格子細腰褲。

This look appears in episodes two and 3, which take place in Lexington and Cincinnati in 1963.

這個造型出現在第二集和第三集，這兩集發生在1963年的列剋星敦和辛辛那提。

At this point in the series, Beth is just starting high school as an adolescent who spent much of her childhood at an orphanage.

在該系列的這一點上，貝絲作為一個青少年剛剛開始上高中，她的童年大部分時間是在孤兒院度過的。

She didn't have a lot of role models growing up.

她在成長過程中沒有太多的榜樣。

As a result, she looks to imitate the women in her life by adapting their styles of clothing.

是以，她希望通過適應生活中的女性的服裝風格來模仿她們。

Beth purchases this dress at Ben Snyder's, which was a real life department store that operated in Lexington Kentucky for several decades during the mid 20th century.

貝絲在本-斯奈德百貨公司購買了這件衣服，這是一家真實存在的百貨公司，在20世紀中期在肯塔基州列剋星敦經營了幾十年。

Beth sees the dress on a mannequin at the department store on her first trip with her adoptive mother and it becomes the embodiment of aspiration.

貝絲在與養母的第一次旅行中，在百貨公司的一個模特身上看到了這件衣服，它成為了願望的化身。

She later buys it using the cash prize from her first tournament victory, Which is significant because this is the first time she's able to choose what she wears.

她後來用她第一次錦標賽勝利的現金獎買了它，這很重要，因為這是她第一次能夠選擇自己的衣服。

This look captures the quintessential mid-century schoolgirl style, although it looks to be more influenced by the 1950s than the 1960s.

這個造型捕捉到了典型的中世紀女學生風格，儘管它看起來更多的是受到50年代而不是60年代的影響。

This can be attributed to the differential pace of fashion based on locale.

這可以歸因於基於地方的不同的時尚步伐。

A small town department store would not likely be stocked with the latest most fashion forward offerings.

一個小城鎮的百貨公司不可能有最新的最時尚的產品。

讓我們一層一層地畫出這個造型。

First up the undergarments for undergarments, she would be wearing a simple white bra and a pair of cotton panties, Beth does not wear stockings or pantyhose which is appropriate for her at this point of the series because she is being depicted as an adolescent schoolgirl and then the slip as a modesty layer beth maybe wearing a full slip, which would be about knee length.

首先是內衣，她會穿一個簡單的白色胸罩和一條棉質內褲，貝絲不穿絲襪或連褲襪，這在該系列的這一點上對她來說是合適的，因為她被描繪成一個青春期的女學生，然後是作為謙虛層的滑梯，貝絲也許穿了一條完整的滑梯，這將是大約膝蓋長度。

We see her wearing a simple white one when she's deciding what to wear for her classmates get together.

我們看到她在決定穿什麼去參加同學聚會時，穿了一件簡單的白色衣服。

The crisp white button up shirt is a longstanding staple in schoolgirl style.

清晰的白色鈕釦襯衫是女學生風格中的一個長期主打產品。

Beth has three quarter length sleeves with turned up cuffs, an open collar and decorative buttons at the center and then her dress.

貝絲有四分之三長的袖子，袖口上翻，領口敞開，中間有裝飾性鈕釦，然後是她的衣服。

Pena for style dresses usually feature a jumper like bodice with open sides that requires a shirt to be worn underneath the pinafore is a garment that has been traditionally associated with school uniforms, especially those made out of plaid textiles.

佩納式連衣裙通常有一個像跳線一樣的上衣，兩側是敞開的，需要在下面穿一件襯衫。

Another significant aspect of the plaid pattern is it's illusion to the grid like pattern of a chess board.

格子圖案的另一個重要方面是它對國際象棋棋盤的網格狀圖案的錯覺。

Throughout the series, the costume designer has selected black and white garments with checked or linear geometric prints that visually connect deaths character to the game of chess itself.

在整個系列中，服裝設計師選擇了帶有格子或線性幾何圖案的黑色和白色服裝，在視覺上將死亡角色與國際象棋本身聯繫起來。

Black and white geometric prints were especially fashionable in the 1960s when op art began to influence textile design and fashion photography.

黑白幾何圖案在20世紀60年代特別流行，當時歐普藝術開始影響紡織品設計和時尚攝影。

Next up, her shoes and socks, we are made aware of deaths insecurity about her shoes in the second episode, when she finds herself surrounded by classmates wearing black and white saddle shoes.

接下來是她的鞋子和襪子，在第二集裡，當她發現自己身邊的同學都穿著黑白相間的馬鞍鞋時，我們意識到了她對鞋子的不安全感。

This style was very popular for teenage schoolgirls and Death's desire for them is another instance of her aspiration that takes the form of clothing at the end of episode two.

這種風格在十幾歲的女學生中非常流行，死神對它們的渴望是她在第二集結尾以服裝形式出現的另一個例子。

It can be interpreted that Beth purchased the coveted shoes with her prize money.

可以這樣理解，貝絲用她的獎金購買了夢寐以求的鞋子。

However, it is later revealed that the purchase was actually a chess set.

然而，後來發現，購買的其實是一套國際象棋。

When we see Beth and her mother arrived at the hotel at the beginning of episode three, we see that she did purchase the shoes for herself.

當我們看到貝絲和她的母親在第三集開始時到達酒店，我們看到她確實為自己購買了這雙鞋。

After all, she wears the saddle shoes with white bobby socks which are folded over just above the ankle.

畢竟，她穿的是馬鞍鞋，配的是白色的波比襪，波比襪正好疊在腳踝上。

Finally, her hair and makeup at this point, she is fresh faced and pretty much make up free, which helps to establish this as the beginning of her beauty journey.

最後，她的頭髮和妝容在這一點上，她面目一新，幾乎沒有化妝，這有助於確立這是她美麗旅程的開始。

Beth sports a short page boy hairstyle with micro bangs.

貝絲留著微劉海的短髮，是個頁遊男孩的髮型。

It is not a fashionable hairstyle and it is meant to make her look young and not particularly in touch with the latest beauty trends.

這不是一個時尚的髮型，它是為了讓她看起來很年輕，而不是特別符合最新的美容趨勢。

If she were, she may have opted for a more voluminous hairstyle with softer bangs, She may have also accessorized with a headband or a Brett overall.

如果是這樣，她可能會選擇一個更豐滿的髮型，劉海更柔和，她還可能用頭帶或佈雷特整體來裝飾。

This is an accurate character driven costume, so here's what Beth would have looked like.

這是一個準確的角色驅動的服裝，所以這裡是貝絲本來的樣子。

讓我們繼續看看貝特的下一個造型吧!

This look appears in episodes one and six, which take place in paris in 1967 when Beth arrives in the fashion capital, she finally has access to the most up to date styles.

這個造型出現在第一集和第六集，這兩集發生在1967年的巴黎，當時貝絲來到了時尚之都，她終於有機會接觸到最先進的風格。

This dress was likely purchased on Beth shopping trip before her match with borgoff boutique she walks out of is a fictional one and maison bone, which is written on the side of the large shopping bag, is actually an eyeglass store.

這條裙子很可能是在貝絲與博爾格夫的比賽前購物時購買的，她走出的精品店是虛構的，寫在大購物袋側面的maison bone實際上是一家眼鏡店。

This is the first look we see at the very beginning of the series.

這是我們在該系列的最開始看到的第一個外觀。

Before we do the flashback, two breaths childhood.

在我們做倒敘之前，兩次呼吸的童年。

When we see it again in episode six, we understand the reason for the seemingly haphazard nature of this look.

當我們在第六集再次看到它時，我們明白了這個造型看似雜亂無章的原因。

Her much anticipated face off with Russian grandmaster, borgoff is derailed by a wild night of drinking, which causes her to lose the match.

她備受期待的與俄羅斯特級大師博爾格夫的對決因一夜狂飲而脫軌，導致她輸掉了比賽。

Costume designer Gabrielle binder cites the work of Pierre Cardin as the inspiration for this look.

服裝設計師加布裡埃爾-賓德（Gabrielle binder）將皮爾-卡丹的作品作為這一造型的靈感來源。

However, there are specific design features that make this costume particularly fitting for this pivotal scene.

然而，有一些特定的設計特點使這套服裝特別適合這個關鍵的場景。

Now, we're going to draw every layer of this look.

現在，我們要畫出這個造型的每一層。

First up the undergarments for this look, she would be wearing the same white bra and cotton panties.

首先是這個造型的內衣，她將穿著同樣的白色胸罩和棉質內褲。

This important match would have been an occasion where it would be appropriate for her to wear tights or pantyhose.

這場重要的比賽本來是一個適合她穿緊身衣或褲襪的場合。

However, we know that she got dressed in a hurry and perhaps didn't have the wherewithal to put them on.

然而，我們知道，她穿得很匆忙，也許沒有辦法穿上它們。

If she were wearing pantyhose, they could be dark and textured in the style made popular by Pierre Cardamom and then the next layer, a loose fitting, full slip would be a smoothing layer and maintained the boxy silhouette of the dress.

如果她穿的是連褲襪，它們可以是皮爾-卡達姆（Pierre Cardamom）流行的那種深色和有質感的，然後下一層，寬鬆的、完整的拖鞋將是一個平滑層，並保持裙子的方型輪廓。

It is also plausible that Beth could be wearing a half slip as she does at other points in the series.

貝絲可能穿著半身裙，這也是合理的，因為她在該系列的其他地方也是如此。

Next up the dress, This design was inspired by the work of Parisian designer Pierre Cardin who created modernist garments with a space age aesthetic.

接下來是裙子，這個設計的靈感來自巴黎設計師皮爾-卡丹的作品，他創造了具有太空時代美學的現代主義服裝。

His color blocked mini dresses were usually constructed from heavier wool or synthetic double nets which allowed the trapeze or a line silhouette to stand away from the body.

他的拼色迷你裙通常由較重的羊毛或合成雙網構成，使梯形或一字形的輪廓遠離身體。

Gabrielle binder intentionally had this costume constructed out of a fabric that was too light and wait to support the garment's silhouette.

加布裡埃爾-賓德有意讓這套服裝用一種太輕的布料來建造，以支持服裝的輪廓。

She chose a crepe viscose that flowed with deaths body and accentuated her movements as she frantically rushed through the hotel.

她選擇了一件縐綢粘膠，在她瘋狂地衝過酒店時，它隨著死亡的身體流動，突出了她的動作。

In the last two episodes of the season, several of deaths costumes looked to be direct references to garments by prominent designers at the time.

在本季的最後兩集裡，幾個死亡者的服裝看起來是直接參考了當時著名設計師的服裝。

These include this dress which also looks to be inspired by the work of Pierre Cardin and this one which is very similar to one by john Bates adapted from a costume he designed for Diana rigg on the popular television show.

其中包括這件看起來也是受皮爾-卡丹作品啟發的裙子，以及這件與約翰-貝茨從他為流行的電視節目中的戴安娜-裡格設計的服裝改編的裙子非常相似。

The Avengers one especially significant aspect about this dress is its color, which is a pale shade of green that is repeated at different moments throughout the series when she arrives at the orphanage in the first episode, she's wearing a pale green dress embroidered by her mother.

復仇者聯盟關於這件衣服的一個特別重要的方面是它的顏色，這是一種淡淡的綠色，在整個系列的不同時刻重複出現，當她在第一集到達孤兒院時，她穿著一件由她母親繡的淡綠色衣服。

She wears this color again in the final episode for her rematch with Barkov in this case, the light color helps her stand out against the dark tones of the room in which the Russian tournament is taking place, but the same color helps her blend into the interiors of the orphanage in episode one.

她在最後一集與巴爾科夫的複賽中再次穿上這種顏色，在這種情況下，淺色有助於她在俄羅斯比賽的房間的暗色調中脫穎而出，但同樣的顏色也有助於她融入第一集的孤兒院的內部環境。

Here we see a bit of color theory at play.

在這裡，我們看到有一點色彩理論的作用。

The distinctive shade of what became known as hospital green first appeared around 1914 and by the mid 20th century this color was ubiquitous at hospitals and asylums.

被稱為醫院綠的獨特色調首次出現在1914年左右，到20世紀中期，這種顏色在醫院和療養院中無處不在。

This green was thought to influence patient moods and inspire serenity of mind.

這種綠色被認為可以影響病人的情緒，並激發出寧靜的心境。

The two tone design of this particular dress also mirrors the two tone green of the tranquilizer pills to which Beth becomes addicted.

這件特別的衣服的雙色調設計也反映了貝絲上癮的鎮靜劑藥片的雙色調綠色。

One last thing to note about this dress is the bow at the chest deaths costumes always convey her innate femininity, but the show's creators took care that it was never used to her advantage in game play and then the shoes, she runs through the hotel barefoot and we see her slip on a pair of shoes just before she enters the room where the tournament is taking place.

關於這件衣服的最後一件事是胸前的蝴蝶結死亡服裝總是傳達出她與生俱來的女性氣質，但該劇的創作者注意到這一點在遊戲中從未被用於她的優勢，然後是鞋子，她赤腳跑過酒店，我們看到她在進入進行比賽的房間之前滑上了一雙鞋子。

Beth wears low heeled black pumps that coordinate with the black accents on her dress.

貝絲穿著低跟黑色高跟鞋，與她的裙子上的黑色點綴相協調。

They appear to be slingbacks, but she could also be wearing a youthful t strap variation that brings us to best hair.

他們似乎是吊帶鞋，但她也可能穿著一個年輕的T型帶變化，這給我們帶來了最好的頭髮。

The show's hair and makeup designer Daniel Parker sites Natalie Wood as the source of inspiration for bethstl look with the softly swooped bangs and the curled ends.

該節目的髮型和化妝設計師丹尼爾-帕克（Daniel Parker）認為娜塔莉-伍德（Natalie Wood）是貝斯特爾（Bethstl）造型的靈感來源，她的劉海和捲髮都是柔和的。

This is a style that would be typically achieved with an overnight roller set, which Beth obviously did not do on this occasion.

這種風格通常是通過過夜的滾筒定型來實現的，而貝絲顯然在這個場合沒有這樣做。

At one point in the series, we see her styling her hair by blow drying it and this would not likely produce the same results as we see on screen.

在該系列的一個點上，我們看到她通過吹乾頭髮來做造型，這不可能產生與我們在螢幕上看到的相同的結果。

Lastly, her makeup, Bethstl makeup evolves as her character matures throughout the series.

最後是她的妝容，貝絲特爾的妝容隨著她的性格在整個系列中的成熟而演變。

Here, it mainly consists of winged eyeliner and pink lipstick.

在這裡，它主要包括翼狀眼線和粉色脣膏。

This is a more subdued version of 1960s mod makeup trends, especially in comparison to her mariska Veres inspired floating eyeliner look from the depth of her destructive spiral when she returns from paris aside from the fabric.

這是20世紀60年代MOD化妝趨勢的一個更低調的版本，特別是與她從巴黎回來時，除了布料之外，她的Mariska Veres靈感的浮動眼線的深度對比。

This look is pretty accurate, although she does look remarkably put together given the circumstances.

這個造型相當準確，儘管在這種情況下，她確實看起來非常有條理。

So this is what Beth would have looked like.

Next up, let's take a look at her white queen ensemble.

接下來，讓我們來看看她的白色女王套裝。

This look appears in episode seven, which takes place in Moscow in 1968.

這個造型出現在第七集，該集發生在1968年的莫斯科。

This is the final look of the series, which is meant to resemble the white queen chess piece.

這是該系列的最終外觀，意在類似於白色皇后棋子。

It marks a symbolic end to her journey to conquer the chess world as well as her personal demons.

這標誌著她征服國際象棋世界以及個人惡魔的旅程的象徵性結束。

This look is inspired by the work of Andrei Courage, who was a significant designer in the space age fashion movement, which saw the rise of futuristic styles that coincided with the Apollo Space program all leading up to the Moon landing in 1969.

這個造型的靈感來自於安德烈-庫拉奇的作品，他是太空時代時尚運動中的重要設計師，看到未來主義風格的興起，與阿波羅太空計劃全部導致1969年的登月相吻合。

Courage was especially known for his sleek all white tailored ensembles.

庫爾奇尤其以其光滑的全白剪裁套裝而聞名。

The costume designer has cited french singer songwriter francoise hardy, a frequent client of Courage as the point of inspiration for Beth let's break this look down layer by layer.

服裝設計師將法國歌手Francoise Hardy作為貝絲的靈感來源，她是勇氣的常客，讓我們把這個造型逐層分解。

Once again, Beth undergarments would consist of a bra and a pair of panties.

再一次，貝絲的內衣將包括一個胸罩和一條內褲。

By the late 19 sixties underwear had evolved into a style more akin to a hip hugger, which did not extend all the way up to the natural waist.

到1960年代末，內衣已經演變成一種更類似於抱臀的款式，它並沒有一直延伸到自然腰部。

By 1968 colorful and printed textiles became more common in lingerie.

到1968年，彩色和印刷的紡織品在內衣中變得更加普遍。

Beth wears a long sleeved black turtleneck sweater.

貝絲穿著一件長袖的黑色高領毛衣。

She wears similar sweaters throughout the series with slight variations in sleeve length and color.

她在整個系列中穿著類似的毛衣，袖子長度和顏色略有不同。

This garment hints at the arrows, edgier art scene as well as the rising counterculture.

這件衣服暗示了箭頭，更前衛的藝術場景以及崛起的反主流文化。

The black turtleneck became associated with the beatnik subculture in the previous decade and it became especially fashionable following the release of the 1957 film, Funny face starring Audrey Hepburn.

黑色高領毛衣在前十年與beatnik亞文化聯繫在一起，在1957年奧黛麗-赫本（Audrey Hepburn）主演的電影《Funny face》上映之後，它變得特別時尚。

And then the pants Beth wears a pair of straight leg white trousers with a crisp crease pressed down the center of each leg.

然後是褲子，貝絲穿的是一條直腿白色長褲，每條腿中間壓著一條清脆的摺痕。

These are just one aspect of the look that references the work of Andrei Courage, who is known in the fashion world for his futuristic white pantsuits.

這些只是參考安德烈-庫拉奇（Andrei Courage）作品的一個方面，他在時尚界以其未來主義的白色褲裝聞名。

The decision to put Beth in pants at this moment could be symbolic of her triumph as a young woman in what was a male dominated sport.

此刻讓貝絲穿上褲子的決定可能象徵著她作為一名年輕女性在當時由男性主導的運動中取得的勝利。

Next step, the shoes, This style of leather ankle boot was particularly fashionable in the mid to late 1960s flat white ankle boots with a square toe were the quintessential accessory to any carriage ensemble and then the code Beth snee length white coat is made from a thick cashmere wool and features a stand collar.

下一步是鞋子，這種風格的皮革踝靴在20世紀60年代中後期特別流行，方頭的白色平底踝靴是任何馬車組合的典型配件，然後是代碼貝絲噴嚏長度的白色大衣，由厚實的羊絨羊毛製成，具有一個立領。