Name: 日本VOGUE》雜誌："在日本，我們的生活方式和生活方式都是一樣的。"在日本，"我們的生活方式和生活方式都是一樣的。"在日本，"我們的生活方式和生活方式都是一樣的"。 (アナ・ウィンター、ソフィア・コッポラらが語るシャネルの現在・過去・未来。| VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-10-20T19:00:28.000Z
Duration: 11 min 53 s

現在進行式

When I look at what version is doing at Chanel, it seems to me it's softer, it's more feminine, it doesn't move quite as fast as carl's Chanel did.

當我看到版本在香奈兒所做的事情時，在我看來，它更柔和，更有女人味，它不像卡爾的香奈兒那樣發展得那麼快。

She new and better than anybody probably.

她是新的，可能比任何人都好。

But she isn't trying to be carl and I think that's so important to remember that she's taken his legacy and she's taken Chanel and she's making it absolutely her own between yesterday and tomorrow we are in between.

但她並沒有試圖成為卡爾，我認為這一點非常重要，要記住她接受了他的遺產，她接受了香奈兒，她在昨天和明天之間把它變成了絕對屬於她自己的東西，我們處於兩者之間。

And the good thing is that fashion can go from the old world to the new work.

而好的方面是，時尚可以從舊世界走向新工作。

We have to adapt with the change of times.

Then changes the most interesting thing because you know, the past of when I took over it was forgotten and now I have to push it.

然後改變了最有趣的事情，因為你知道，我接手時的過去被遺忘了，現在我必須要推動它。

Carl made Chanel both house that endures, but a house that changes whilst car left this tremendous vacuum in the world of fashion and style.

卡爾使香奈兒既是一個經久不衰的品牌，也是一個不斷變化的品牌，同時在時尚和風格的世界裡留下了這個巨大的真空。

The establishment at Chanel handled everything with this sense of really a seamless transition like Karl before her obviously version is immersed in the history of Chanel and the life that Gabrielle lead and how much of her personal life influenced her design.

香奈兒的機構以這種真正的無縫過渡的感覺來處理一切，就像卡爾在她之前的版本，顯然是沉浸在香奈兒的歷史和嘉柏麗爾的生活，以及她的個人生活對她的設計有多大影響。

Gabrielle Chanel opened her first shop on the rue combo in 1910.

1910年，嘉柏麗爾-香奈兒在combo街開了她的第一家店。

She parlayed her very considerable taste into making these cardigans that are unfit ID and they just have a tie at the waist and loose fitting, fluid skirt that's cut scandalously short, above the ankle and these are close that you can kind of work and function by the early twenties, she has built up a couture house that really has a very, very strong point of view.

她把她非常可觀的品味用於製作這些開衫，這些開衫是不適合的ID，它們只是在腰部有一個領帶，寬鬆的、流暢的裙子被剪得很短，超過了腳踝，這些是接近的，你可以有點工作和功能，到20年代初，她已經建立了一個高級時裝屋，真的有一個非常，非常強大的觀點。

It's hemline, a rigid two inches below the knee.

它的下襬，在膝蓋以下兩英寸的位置，很硬朗。

A gaily colored velvet print suit with matching handbag has the style which for many women has become almost a classic uniform channel was very unfiltered and didn't hold back her opinions and I can imagine she would have had a lot to say about everybody designs for an idea of a woman.

一套色彩豔麗的天鵝絨印花套裝與配套的手提包的風格，對許多婦女來說，幾乎已經成為一個經典的制服，通道是非常未經過濾的，沒有保留她的意見，我可以想象，她會有很多關於每個人的設計的想法的女人。

Other women can identify with it like it or not like it.

其他婦女可以認同它喜歡或不喜歡它。

Chanel was good for car but of course Carl was extraordinary for Chanel.

香奈兒對汽車很好，但當然卡爾對香奈兒也很不一般。

He just had this unbelievable instinct for absorbing the zeitgeist.

他在吸收時代潮流方面有一種令人難以置信的本能。

When I came here as a kid, I expected Chanel to be really serious and stuffy.

當我作為一個孩子來到這裡時，我以為香奈兒會非常嚴肅和悶騷。

Then as soon as I came it was like this fun family atmosphere, Carl and everyone made me feel very welcome.

然後我一來，就像這種有趣的家庭氛圍，卡爾和每個人都讓我感到非常受歡迎。

He followed culture, he followed film, he followed literature, he loves society, he loved grand houses, but he also always was watching what was happening on the street and he always would say to me, let's go for a walk and we would walk on the street and just see what people were wearing.

他關注文化，他關注電影，他關注文學，他喜歡社會，他喜歡大房子，但他也總是在關注街上發生的事情，他總是會對我說，我們去散步吧，我們會在街上走走，看看人們穿什麼。

You know, he was superman, He was just an extraordinary, extraordinary megaphone for fashion.

你知道，他是超人，他只是一個非凡的，非凡的時尚傳聲筒。

When we heard about carl passing away, we we were in shock.

當我們聽到卡爾去世的消息時，我們都很震驚。

感覺就像一個巨人離開了舞臺。

He was so witty and sharp and funny and open.

他是如此機智、敏銳、有趣和開放。

I mean, he was the first to bring the street to the catwalk and really, really influenced every part of fashion.

我的意思是，他是第一個把街道帶到T臺上的人，真的，真的影響了時尚的每一部分。

I mean, there just is no one else like him and yeah, uh huh.

我的意思是，沒有人像他一樣，是的，嗯哼。

I think for people that maybe don't know Karl or didn't know carl as well as I do, because I was so lucky to know him over so many years that there was a very vulnerable side to carl and I just felt so privileged to be inside that circle.

我想對於那些也許不瞭解卡爾或不像我那樣瞭解卡爾的人來說，因為我非常幸運地在這麼多年裡認識了他，卡爾有非常脆弱的一面，我只是覺得很榮幸能進入這個圈子。

I miss his honesty, I miss his exuberance.

我懷念他的誠實，我懷念他的豪爽。

I miss his wicked sense of humor, his love of gossip.

我懷念他邪惡的幽默感，他對八卦的熱愛。

Really, it was not a relationship that I'll ever be able to replace with him pausing.

真的，這不是我與他暫停的關係，我永遠無法取代。

這是他留下的一份美麗的遺產。

Which lives side by side with Gabrielle Chanel's legacy.

它與嘉柏麗爾-香奈兒的遺產並存。

Always remember sitting in on an interview that one of our first ladies was giving.

一直記得坐在我們的一位第一夫人接受採訪時的情景。

And they were asking which first ladies that came before You most influenced you?

他們在問，在您之前的哪位第一夫人對您影響最大？

And she said back slightly annoyed, I think I'll just be myself and I think that's version is approach to for version E taking on the legacy of carl and of Gabrielle Chanel was in a way easy.

她略帶惱怒地回道，我想我就做我自己，我想這是E版的方法，承擔卡爾和嘉柏麗爾-香奈兒的遺產在某種程度上是很容易的。

I'm always worried about maybe is it going to be okay?

我總是擔心，也許會好起來嗎？

Grew more and more we, we can see it that she's confusing her own style and ideas into the collections.

越來越多的人，我們可以看到，她把自己的風格和想法混淆到系列中。

She always has a little extra, something that makes it more rock and roll and stylish.

她總是有一點額外的東西，使之更加搖滾和時尚。

It's really beautiful without trying hard at all.

It just happens to be incredibly elegant like Chanel.

它恰好像香奈兒一樣令人難以置信的優雅。

She thinks about clothes that she would want and that would enable her to look great while living her life.

她想的是她想要的、能讓她在生活中看起來很棒的衣服。

她很冷靜，對這一點並不珍視。

I think that's what I like about Virginia.

我想這就是我喜歡弗吉尼亞的原因。

I do my best but doesn't work simmer show.

我盡了最大努力，但沒有工作模擬秀。

I don't know that he is a very private person.

我不知道他是一個非常隱私的人。

Also, she has a kind of cool extra because she has a mistake which I respect.

另外，她有一種額外的酷，因為她有一個錯誤，我很尊重。

You know, I like to, to even to to look at things that I know, but after one year you see them in a different way.

你知道，我喜歡，甚至喜歡看我知道的東西，但一年後你會以不同的方式看待它們。

She wants to communicate through her work.

她希望通過她的作品進行交流。

I find it so now to put into the light, just the process of creation and tim ward.

我發現現在把它放到光中，只是創造和時間的過程。

She's not in it for the fame for the attention.

She just wants people to feel good and what she makes, She loves to go into deep conversation.

她只是想讓人們感覺良好，她做的東西，她喜歡深入交談。

She loves to listen to you to what you move and that takes time.

她喜歡聽你講你的動作，這需要時間。

But she also learned from working with Carl is this idea of, you know, it's only fashion, it's not brain surgery or saving people.

但她從與卡爾的合作中也學到了這種想法，你知道，這只是時尚，這不是腦外科或救人。

It's very playful when we work with Chanel, there's almost a telepathic connection with Virginie.

當我們與香奈兒合作時，這是非常有趣的，與Virginie幾乎有一種心靈感應的聯繫。

Like we kind of sense what the feeling would be for a collection.

就像我們感覺到一個系列的感覺會是什麼。

是的，她的時尚參考價值要低得多。

We would go like remember this movie from the seventies and you know when she crosses the street, she's wearing this code with that bag and whatever and and for her, it's much more No, remember that feeling when you would go to a club and you're wearing this amazing new coat and it's super hot in the club, but you don't want to take your coat off, you just keep it on and dance the whole evening when we're working on the fittings together.

我們會像記得七十年代的這部電影一樣，你知道當她過馬路的時候，她穿著這個代碼，帶著那個包，什麼的，對她來說，這就更多了 不，記得那種感覺，當你去一個俱樂部，你穿著這個驚人的新外套，俱樂部裡超級熱，但你不想把外套脫下來，你只是保持它，整個晚上都在跳舞，當我們一起做配件的時候。

The girl that designs the fabrics has as much input as version of me as the girl that does the jewelry or the bags.

設計面料的女孩和做珠寶或包的女孩一樣，對我有很多意見。

They know when it's a starting point and they understand what I don't want.

他們知道什麼時候是一個起點，他們明白我不想要什麼。

It's a real team of all these amazing women that are just doing it together.

這是一個由所有這些了不起的婦女組成的真正的團隊，她們只是一起做這件事。

I was thrilled when Virginia asked me to come be a part of it for me.

當弗吉尼亞邀請我為我來參與其中時，我很激動。

That couture is such an incredible tradition, that I'm happy that still exists and nothing else is like that.

這種高級時裝是一個令人難以置信的傳統，我很高興它仍然存在，沒有其他東西是這樣的。

看到弗吉尼亞的參考資料很有趣。

There were images of Gabriel Chanel at balls and costumes.

有加布裡埃爾-香奈兒在舞會和服裝上的影像。

We were in the studio a few days before the show and and the dress is, you know, a fraction of its made.

我們在演出前幾天在工作室，而且這條裙子，你知道，是它的一小部分。

And you think, how are they going to put this all together by Tuesday?

你會想，他們如何在週二之前把這一切放在一起？

好吧，我們讓你的工作完成得很好。

I think that in the work of Virginie Shana would see it perhaps a slightly closer reflection to her own principles of making woman friendly, close that you can move and live and exist in.

我認為在維吉妮-莎娜的作品中，也許會看到它略微接近她自己的原則，即讓女人友好，接近你可以移動、生活和存在。

I think she would certainly see a shared mindset of a woman designing for women.

我想她肯定會看到一個女人為女人設計的共同心態。

I'm doing things with heart and the only important thing for me.

我在用心做事，對我來說唯一重要的是。