Name: "メリーポピンズ」のファッションは歴史のに正しい？専門家が検索証。| Vogue Japan (「メリーポピンズ」のファッションは歴史的に正しい？専門家が検証。| VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-09-04T18:35:29.000Z
Duration: 14 min 44 s

this is Mary Poppins, you know, her from Disney's mary Poppins, you know, this outfit and this one, but are they accurate?

這是瑪麗-波平斯，你知道，她來自迪斯尼的瑪麗-波平斯，你知道，這套衣服和這套衣服，但它們是否準確？

We got fashion historian Burn it up banner to walk us through what the movie got right and what they got wrong about these looks first, let's establish the setting, Mary Poppins quite classically, takes place in London and as mr Banks so kindly informs us, it's grand to be an englishman in 1910, King Edwards on the throne, It's the age of men.

我們請來了時尚歷史學家Burn it up banner，讓他帶領我們瞭解電影中這些造型的正確和錯誤之處，首先讓我們確定一下背景，瑪麗-波平斯非常經典地發生在倫敦，正如班克斯先生如此親切地告訴我們，在1910年做一個英國人是很了不起的，愛德華茲國王在位，這是一個男人的時代。

His majesty died on the sixth of May 1910.

And judging from the blossoming cherry trees present in subsequent outdoor scenes later in the film, we can quite confidently narrow down our time period to approximately april of 1910, the Banks family seemed to comfortably occupy a place in the upper middle class, judging from their employment of three members of full time domestic staff, a cook housekeeper.

從影片後來的室外場景中出現的盛開的櫻花來看，我們可以很有把握地將時間段縮小到1910年4月左右，從班克斯家僱傭的三名全職家政人員、一名廚師和一名管家來看，他們似乎在中上層階級中佔據了一個舒適的位置。

And of course, a nanny mary Poppins, practically perfect in every way.

當然，還有一個保姆瑪麗-波平斯，幾乎在各方面都很完美。

While the term nurse and nanny were in this time period relatively synonymous, the difference between the nurse, the nanny and the governess was that the governess had the further task of educating the young girls of the family boys, on the other hand, would be sent to boarding school.

雖然護士和保姆這個詞在這個時期是相對的同義詞，但護士、保姆和家庭教師之間的區別是，家庭教師還有一個任務是教育家裡的年輕女孩，而男孩則會被送到寄宿學校去。

However, the level of authority that mary Poppins seems to assert over the Banks household is undoubtedly intentionally, unusually above her station.

然而，瑪麗-波平斯似乎對班克斯家所宣稱的權威水準無疑是故意的，異常地高於她的地位。

Oh, I make it a point never to give references a very old fashioned idea to my mind, is that so anything else?

哦，我讓它成為一個點，從來沒有給引用一個非常老式的想法給我的頭腦，是這樣的任何其他？

The original novel, Mary Poppins was written by P.

原版小說《瑪麗-波平斯》是由P.

And while the story in the novel doesn't necessarily have a time period associated with it, it was a conscious decision made by the production team of the film to set it in the awarding period.

而小說中的故事不一定有一個與之相關的時間段，但電影的製作團隊有意識地決定將其設定在頒獎期。

First up, mary Poppins navy suit, Although clearly a bit of whimsical.

首先，瑪麗-波平斯的海軍套裝，雖然明顯有點異想天開。

Liberty was taken with some of the elements of this look whimsical liberties as well as some deeply ingrained 1960s beauty aesthetics.

自由是以這種外觀的一些元素異想天開的自由，以及一些根深蒂固的1960年代的美學。

The two piece matching suit and shirtwaist combination was very much a feature of the respectable woman's wardrobe in 1910.

1910年，兩件套搭配的西裝和襯衫腰帶的組合是受人尊敬的女性衣櫥的一大特色。

However, the biggest departure from Edwardian dress here begins with the all important foundation layers.

然而，這裡與愛德華時代的服裝最大的不同是，從最重要的基礎層開始。

所以這在一定程度上是準確的。

Let's draw mary Poppins outfit from the undergarments.

讓我們從內衣上畫出瑪麗-波平斯的裝束。

1st up, the undergarments, First and foremost, Mary Poppins would have had two choices of undergarment, either a separated shimmies and pair of drawers, as was common in earlier decades of the 19th century.

首先是內衣，首先，瑪麗-波平斯會有兩種內衣選擇，要麼是分開的短褲和一對抽屜，這在19世紀早期的幾十年中很常見。

Alternatively, she could have opted for the more modern innovation that combined the two into a single garment aptly called a pair of combinations.

或者，她可以選擇更現代的創新，將兩者結合成一件衣服，恰如其分地稱為一對組合。

We'll go ahead and saying she's wearing a pair of these combinations because mary Poppins strikes me as a lady of practicality and very much one for keeping up with the times, These would have been made of a white calico or cotton and wood commonly closed down the front with small flat buttons so as not to interfere with the corset generally, it was still not uncommon for this seem to just be left open entirely for ease of necessary access.

我們會繼續說她穿了一對這樣的組合，因為瑪麗-波平斯給我的印象是一位實用的女士，非常注重與時俱進，這些都是由白色花布或棉布製成的，木材通常在前面用小平扣封閉，以便不影響胸衣一般，這似乎只是完全開放，以方便必要的訪問。

As fully enclosed undergarments were only just starting to become a prevalent thing in the early 20th century.

由於全封閉的內衣在20世紀初才剛剛開始成為一種普遍的東西。

Arguably, for the first time in modern history, on her legs, mary Poppins would be wearing a pair of silk or woolen knitted hose that would come up above the knee and could be garnered either below the knee or suspended from the corset.

可以說，在現代歷史上，瑪麗-波平斯的腿上第一次穿上了一雙絲質或毛質的針織長筒襪，長筒襪會在膝蓋以上，可以在膝蓋以下或懸掛在胸衣上。

With this exciting new innovation of elastic ated suspenders onto the corset.

有了這一令人振奮的彈性吊帶的新創新，緊身胸衣就有了。

Of course it's a varying build and quality were available for all kinds of lady from the high society socialite to the militant suffragette, to the scullery, maid and mary Poppins would probably be wearing one too.

當然，它的結構和品質各不相同，從上流社會的社會名流到激進的女權主義者，再到洗碗工，女僕和瑪麗-波平斯可能也會穿著它。

But here's the thing, unless you are one of those very high fashionable society ladies willing to endure a bit of suffering for the sake of fashion.

但問題是，除非你是那些非常高級的時尚社會女士，願意為了時尚而忍受一點痛苦。

The average woman, as you can probably imagine, required something a bit more practical.

你可能可以想象，普通婦女需要更實用的東西。

Indeed, most surviving corsets from the late victorian and edwardian periods, especially those manufactured for middle and working class women, contain very few steel bones and many advertisements for said mass manufactured corsets boast innovative new designs with no heavy steals.

事實上，大多數現存的維多利亞後期和愛德華時期的緊身衣，特別是那些為中產階級和工人階級婦女製造的緊身衣，很少含有鋼骨，許多上述大規模製造的緊身衣的廣告吹噓創新的新設計，沒有沉重的偷盜。

Most of these corsets were very flexible, stiffened lightly with soft materials such as cord, read feather spines and super fine strips of pliable whale bone that inconsistency resemble the flexibility of a fingernail.

這些胸衣大多非常靈活，用柔軟的材料如繩索、閱讀的羽毛刺和超細的柔韌的鯨魚骨條輕輕加硬，不一致的地方類似於指甲的靈活性。

The primary function of the corset was to support the bust since the first patent for this year, as we know, it today doesn't officially appear until november of 1914, but the corset is also a vital necessity in achieving the posture and silhouette so desirable in any given period.

胸衣的主要功能是支撐胸部，因為這一年的第一個專利，正如我們所知，它今天直到1914年11月才正式出現，但胸衣也是在任何特定時期實現如此理想的姿勢和輪廓的重要必需品。

The corset cover, as the name suggests, is worn over top of the corset to smooth out the foundation layers so that the hard edges of the corset aren't seen through to the now more closer fitting outer clothing and we're strategically made with lots of gathers and no shortage of frilly lace and ruffles decoration at the front To give a bit more volume to the bust area.

胸衣套，顧名思義，是穿在胸衣上面的，以撫平基礎層，使胸衣的硬邊不至於被現在更貼身的外衣看穿，我們的策略是在前面有很多褶皺和不乏褶皺的蕾絲和荷葉邊裝飾，使胸部區域更豐滿。

And in fact, since most women's bust measurements were not upwards of 15" different from their waist measure as was desirable of this period, most women probably did have a little bit of help moving on to the petticoat.

事實上，由於大多數婦女的胸圍與腰圍相差不超過15英寸，這在當時是很理想的，所以大多數婦女可能在穿襯衣時有一點幫助。

Next comes the petticoat mary Poppins would wear at least one of these made of cotton, silk or flannel for the colder months.

接下來是襯裙，瑪麗-波平斯在寒冷的月份至少會穿一件由棉、絲或法蘭絨製成的襯裙。

Petticoats were usually trimmed with ribbon lace or tux as it's april and presumably a bit more mild temperatures outside.

襯裙通常用絲帶花邊或燕尾服修飾，因為現在是四月，估計外面的溫度會比較溫和。

We'll say that she's only wearing one today, that little flash of what looks like a short, slippery satin thing is suspiciously more like a mid 20th century dress slip and probably not what the edwardian lady would have in mind.

我們會說她今天只穿了一件，那一小段閃光的看起來像短而滑的緞子的東西，疑似更像20世紀中期的裙子滑，可能不是愛德華時代的女士所想的。

Next is the blouse or as it was more commonly called in the time, the shirtwaist, which was again usually made from cotton.

接下來是上衣，或者按當時更普遍的叫法，襯衫腰帶，這也是通常用棉花製成的。

So while the ruffles that we can see down front of mary Poppins shirtwaist in the film are an excellent nod to history.

是以，雖然我們在影片中可以看到瑪麗-波平斯襯衫腰帶前面的荷葉邊是對歷史的一個很好的點頭。

The fit of the front is much too close to her natural figure and not nearly puffy enough for the Edwardian taste.

前面的版型太過貼近她的自然身材，而且對於愛德華時代的口味來說，還不夠蓬鬆。

The bow in principle is very correct and not only can be seen in contemporary illustrations and advertisements, but an article in the designer and the woman's magazine from november of 19 oh nine, insists that silk shirt waist bows, specifically those in pastel rose lilac and lavender shades are particularly favorite shades of the season and snap onto the walking suit.

蝴蝶結在原則上是非常正確的，不僅可以在當代的插圖和廣告中看到，而且在19哦9年11月的設計師和婦女雜誌上的一篇文章堅持認為，絲綢襯衫腰部的蝴蝶結，特別是那些粉紅色的玫瑰丁香和薰衣草色調是本季特別喜歡的色調，並扣在步行裝上。

Mary Poppins is wearing what would have been known as a walking suit or a tailor made ensemble consisting of a matching jacket and skirt designed largely for practical ease of movement, such as traversing rooftops and having a right old knees up with your chimney sweep mates.

瑪麗-波平斯穿的是所謂的步行裝，或者是由配套的外套和裙子組成的裁縫套裝，主要是為了實際行動的方便，比如穿越屋頂和與掃煙囪的夥伴們進行正確的老式膝行。

Once again, the suit, in theory is quite correct, as we can see when we look at the film costume.

再次，這套衣服，在理論上是相當正確的，我們看一下電影服裝就知道了。

Next to this image of a remarkably similar turn of the century walking suit, we can still see a remarkable deviation in the posture and silhouette caused by the historical use of padding and the shape of the corset skirts of this period are still very much in a transitionary phase between the sweeping trumpet skirts of the turn of the century and the very tight fitting hobble skirt gaining popularity during the early teens.

在這張非常相似的世紀之交的步行服的圖片旁邊，我們仍然可以看到由於歷史上使用襯墊而造成的姿勢和輪廓的顯著偏差，這一時期的束身裙的形狀仍然處於世紀之交的掃地喇叭裙和十幾歲時開始流行的非常緊身的蹣跚裙之間的過渡階段。

By 1910, skirts were markedly slimmer, especially over the hips, as we've discovered, but could still feature a bit of flare at the hem, either through gord cutting or pleats, and so the pleaded, moderately full skirt that mary Poppins wears with her suit here is a decent representation of the period.

到了1910年，裙子明顯變細了，特別是在臀部，正如我們發現的那樣，但仍然可以通過剪裁或打褶的方式，在下襬處有一點喇叭形，是以瑪麗-波平斯在這裡穿的褶皺的、適度豐滿的裙子與她的西裝搭配，很好地代表了那個時代。

Down to the shoes, Low heeled buckled shoes were indeed a fashionable option for 1910, with this particular style referred to as the Cromwell after 17th century Parliamentary Leader Oliver Cromwell, this style of low heeled buckled shoe is heavily inspired by similar styles of the 17th century, heels were pretty much the norm on women's shoes of this time, but heels don't necessarily mean discomfort if you'll notice heels were crafted in such a way that they curve into the foot, directly supporting the center of balance at the heel and making for a much more stable shoe.

說到鞋，低跟帶扣鞋確實是1910年的一個時尚選擇，這種特殊的風格被稱為克倫威爾，是以17世紀議會領袖奧利弗-克倫威爾的名字命名的，這種低跟帶扣鞋的風格受到17世紀類似風格的很大啟發。高跟鞋是這一時期女鞋的標準，但高跟鞋不一定意味著不舒服，如果你注意到高跟鞋是以這樣的方式製作的，它們彎曲到腳上，直接支持腳跟處的平衡中心，使鞋子更穩定。

We are probably all well aware that mary Poppins is a stalwart proponent of shoes of the sensible kind.

我們可能都很清楚，瑪麗-波平斯是一個明智的鞋子的堅定支持者。

Finally, the hat, hats were indeed a necessary item in the respectable ladies wardrobe in 1910, but sadly mary Poppins, iconic hat is a little bit out of date.

最後是帽子，在1910年，帽子確實是可敬的女士們衣櫥裡的必要物品，但遺憾的是瑪麗-波平斯，標誌性的帽子有點過時了。

Small, close brimmed hats were more common in the 18 nineties and military trends by 1910 tended towards the wider bryn, but there's nothing wrong with keeping a favorite item in your wardrobe.

小而密的帽簷在19世紀90年代更為普遍，到1910年的軍事趨勢傾向於更寬的布林，但在衣櫃裡保留一件最喜歡的東西並沒有錯。

No matter how past the fashion it's gone.

不管過去的時尚是如何的，它已經消失了。

And I think it's rather endearing to think that mary Poppins might have kept it around as a small sentimentality.

而且我認為，瑪麗-波平斯可能把它作為一種小小的情感保留下來，這相當令人喜愛。

Overall, this look is fairly accurate with some decent nods to the history, although some definite deviations for the sake of modern aesthetic and whimsy.

總的來說，這個造型相當準確，對歷史有一些像樣的點頭，儘管為了現代審美和異想天開而有一些明確的偏差。

Here's what mary Poppins Navy suit would have looked like if she lived in history.

如果瑪麗-波平斯生活在歷史上，她的海軍裝會是什麼樣子。

Let's take a look at mary Poppins, jolly Holiday Look, This dress is quite possibly historically accurate if the scene takes place in the 1950s, and Mary Poppins is emulating the highly fashionable new look silhouette.

讓我們來看看瑪麗-波平斯，快樂的假日造型，如果場景發生在20世紀50年代，瑪麗-波平斯正在模仿高度時尚的新造型輪廓，那麼這件衣服很可能是符合歷史的。

In other words, this one has taken quite a bit of whimsical liberty, although a decision not wholly unfitting to the overall theme of the scene, The new look was a line of highly innovative dresses designed by fashion designer Christian Dior in 1947.

換句話說，這個人已經採取了相當多的異想天開的自由，儘管這個決定並非完全不適合整個場景的主題。"新面貌 "是時裝設計師克里斯蒂安-迪奧在1947年設計的一系列高度創新的裙子。

This groundbreaking silhouette was a strong deviation from earlier wartime silhouettes, with its nipped in waist and very full skirt.

這種突破性的剪裁與早期的戰時剪裁有很大的不同，它的腰部收緊，裙襬非常豐滿。

The scene takes place largely at a fantastical Darby event.

這一幕主要發生在一個充滿幻想的達比活動中。

This as well as some clues attempted by the present costume that is the white light frilly frocks, large hat and parasol leads me to speculate that mary Poppins is trying to reflect the fashions typical of a high society racing event like the Royal Ascot.

這一點以及目前的服裝所試圖提供的一些線索，即白色輕柔的褶皺連衣裙、大帽子和陽傘，使我推測瑪麗-波平斯正試圖反映像皇家賽馬會這樣的上流社會的典型時尚。

讓我們從內衣中得出這個結論。

Up first up the underwear and corset, just as in the previous look, mary Poppins would be wearing all of the appropriate foundation garments essential to achieving the fashionable Edwardian silhouette.

首先是內衣和緊身胸衣，就像之前的造型一樣，瑪麗-波平斯將穿上所有適當的基礎服裝，這對實現時尚的愛德華時代的輪廓至關重要。

The hose in this case would probably be white onto the next layer.

在這種情況下，軟管可能會被白色到下一層。

Petticoats were usually trimmed with ribbon, lace or tux, and the petticoat would probably be silk.

襯裙通常用絲帶、蕾絲或燕尾服來修飾，襯裙可能是絲綢的。

Next up the dress bodice, The bottom of the dress itself still fits a bit too closely to her natural figure to be wholly convincing.

接下來是裙子的上衣，裙子的底部本身還是有點太貼近她的自然身材，不能完全令人信服。

This is not helped by that Corsetti waist cinch thing that is either supposed to be a corset and therefore meant as an undergarment or is an interpretation of the wide belts or sashes that could have been worn for an added pop of color.

科塞蒂的那個束腰的東西也無濟於事，它要麼被認為是胸衣，是以是作為內衣的意思，要麼是對寬腰帶或腰帶的一種解釋，可以用來增加色彩。

The gathering at the waist, as we have discovered, would not have done for the Edwardian, who would have much preferred a perfectly smooth fit at the hips with any fullness at all strictly regulated to the center back.

正如我們發現的那樣，腰部的束縛並不適合愛德華時代的人，他們更喜歡臀部完全平滑，任何豐滿度都嚴格控制在背部中央。

It is also far too short as you'll notice that the white tea gowns historically tended to be quite long, although in this case some accommodation probably had to be made for the amount of dancing that has to happen.

它也太短了，因為你會注意到，歷史上的白色茶袍往往是相當長的，儘管在這種情況下，可能不得不為必鬚髮生的大量舞蹈作出一些調整。

In any case the dress does allow us to get a better glimpse at her two toned button boots, which were indeed a popular boot style for this period.

無論如何，這件衣服確實讓我們更好地看到了她的雙色鈕釦靴，這確實是這個時期流行的靴子樣式。

Now, for the hat this time, her hat is sufficiently wide brimmed and up to date in that respect, Although when it comes to military in 1910, especially for such social occasions, there was no skimping on the decoration, copious amounts of silk, artificial flowers and foliage, enormous plumes and even entire stuffed birds could adorn these hats.

現在，對於這次的帽子，她的帽子有足夠寬的帽簷，在這方面也是最新的。雖然在1910年說到軍事，特別是在這種社交場合，在裝飾上是毫不吝嗇的，大量的絲綢、人造花和葉子、巨大的羽翼，甚至整個填充的鳥都可以裝飾這些帽子。

Next up the parasol, a parasol or sun shade, as the magazines prefer to call them, were also essential accessories for such outdoor activities to coordinate properly with these gowns, these would typically be white or pale colors such as rose sky and biscuit like the military.

接下來是陽傘，雜誌上喜歡叫它們陽傘或遮陽傘，也是這種戶外活動必不可少的配件，以便與這些禮服適當協調，這些禮服通常會是白色或淡色的，如玫瑰天和餅乾色，像軍隊一樣。

This was yet another opportunity to incorporate lace and frills, but they were primarily made from light materials such as chintz and chiffon, slightly useful for shade, but mostly decorative and certainly not much use in the rain next her makeup.

這是又一次融入蕾絲和褶皺的機會，但它們主要是由輕質材料製成的，如棉布和雪紡，對遮陽略有用處，但主要是裝飾性的，當然在雨中她的妝容旁邊也沒有什麼用。

The Edwardian aversion to visible makeup, for example, doesn't tend to appeal to the 21st century audience today, nor to that in the 19 sixties.

例如，愛德華時代對明顯的化妝的厭惡，並不傾向於吸引今天21世紀的觀眾，也不傾向於吸引1960年代的觀眾。

And so mary Poppins can be seen most scandalously to her Edwardian contemporaries, very noticeably made up in the fashion of a not quite so respectable music hall performer.

是以，在愛德華時代的人看來，瑪麗-波平斯是最可恥的，她非常明顯地以一個不那麼體面的音樂廳表演者的方式進行化妝。

Likewise, the volume in his hair styles of the 1910 aesthetic appeal has been exchanged for the neat, sculpted up to more fashionable for the 1960s.

同樣，他的髮型中1910年的審美情趣的體積已經換成了整齊的，雕刻起來的，為60年代更時尚的髮型。

Well, the style of boot is correct and she has a big hat and a parasol and the dress is white.

嗯，靴子的樣式是正確的，她有一頂大帽子和一把陽傘，衣服是白色的。

But aside from that, not really, here's what mary Poppins holiday dress would have looked like compared to the one in the film.

但除此之外，並不是這樣的，下面是瑪麗-波平斯的節日禮服與電影中的禮服相比會是什麼樣子。

The role of Mary Poppins is leading actress julie Andrews, Hollywood debut, for which she won the Oscar lovely.

瑪麗-波平斯的角色是女主角朱莉-安德魯斯的好萊塢首秀，她是以獲得了奧斯卡獎的可愛。

I know you americans are famous for your hospitality, but this is really ridiculous.

我知道你們美國人以好客聞名，但這真的很荒謬。

So while the clothes in the film, mary Poppins do definitely look back to elements of history, there were still definitely a few whimsical liberties taken.

是以，儘管電影《瑪麗-波平斯》中的服裝確實回顧了歷史元素，但仍肯定有一些異想天開的自由。

But as is to be expected of any movie musical, here's what mary Poppins would have looked like if she lived in history.

但正如任何電影音樂劇所期望的那樣，這裡是瑪麗-波平斯如果生活在歷史上會是什麼樣子。