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  • Okay, this is 22 Bruton Street, and today, Jean Muir has been remembered by a blue plaque up there on the wall and this is the salon that she had.

    這裡是布魯頓街 22 號,今天我們在已故珍·繆爾的高級服裝店前舉行藍色牌匾揭幕儀式,紀念她對時尚界的貢獻。

  • You see, even though Jean Muir was known for lots of navy blue and black and heavy silk jersey, she did extraordinary things.

    珍·繆爾以在服裝設計上大量使用深藍色、黑色以及厚重的絲綢針織品而聞名。她的設計是超凡的。

  • I mean, look at that, these would be handmade Perspex buttonsand that hat, that would have been Jean just going, "You know, darling, just fun, just fun".

    看看這個,這些應該是手工製的 Perspex 壓克力鈕扣。還有那頂帽子,珍都會說 :「親愛的,這些都是設計好玩,純粹好玩。」

  • She used to just draw colour schemes and shapes and then it would be transferred.

    她只要隨手畫出配色和形狀就能變成一個設計。

  • This is wool. Look at those colours! When we did the little fashion showsand they were little because they had to fit in this small L-shaped roommasses of tiny gold chairs were bought.

    這是羊毛,看看這些顏色!還記得我們當時走的小型秀,他們買了大量的金色小椅子,因為秀場的規模很小,所以椅子必須要很小才能塞進小小的 L 形房間。

  • And all of the grandest people would be there. You could hear the buzz and I would sit to the models in there.

    所有城中名流會聚集在這裡,你會聽到他們交談產生的喧鬧聲,我當時就是和其他模特兒一起坐在那裡的。

  • And there's a wonderful iconic photograph of four of usme, Kelly, J.J., and Roz (Wilkins), sitting on the ground.

    當時的我、凱莉、J.J. 和羅茲四人坐在地上的畫面還被拍成了一幅標誌性的照片。

  • The photograph has us clutching little glasses of champagnejust before she'd say "Champagne darlings! Champagne, champagne, champagne."

    在拍照前,我們緊握著裝有香檳的小杯子,要拍照的時候她會提醒我們:「舉起你的香檳,親愛的!香檳!香檳!香檳!」

  • And Harry would have put on some jazz something smoochy and cool and then we would just walk out

    伴隨哈利播放著很酷的浪漫爵士樂,我們便開始走秀。

  • It just felt unbelievably sophisticated and cool, and right and a glass of champagne and people were just magic.

    你會有一種很精緻、很酷、很對的感覺,還有香檳,還有身邊的每個人就好像有魔法一樣。

  • And you scruffling along in your own scabby life, just for a minute you're elevated walking with the angels—I adored it.

    你的生活原本很狼狽,但下一個瞬間,你有機會和天使們一起走秀,那種美好感覺令人難以忘懷。

  • She loved working in leather and you can be sure that although I can't touch this, it would be as soft as silk she got the softest leather imaginable and it's stitched with leather as well.

    她很喜歡用皮革來做設計,雖然我碰不到實體,但我敢肯定,出自她手的皮革猶如絲綢一樣柔軟,而且同樣是用皮革來縫製。

  • The plaque scheme has been run by English Heritage since 1986, and Miss Muir brings the plaque count across Greater London to a total of 970.

    從 1986 年起,一直是由英國遺產部門負責管理藍色牌匾計畫。包括繆爾小姐在內,我們已經在整個大倫敦地區的設置了 970 個藍色牌匾。

  • And English Heritage are doing thatthey're doing about I think 50 percent of the plaques are going to be for women.

    英國遺產部門一直在做這件事情,我相信獲頒藍色牌匾的人士有一半為女性。

  • So those of us who are women can walk around and just look up and go, "That's great."

    當我們看到這些藍色牌匾時可以感受到國家對於女性偉大成就的肯定。

  • That is a dress I actually still have at home.

    我家裡有這件裙子。

  • This cape from here was attached to the side seam, but it fell loose as a cape behind so when you moved, it slightly swungso gorgeous! Gorgeous!

    這個斗篷是連接側縫的,但它像披風一樣垂落在你的身後,它會隨著你移動而略微擺動——非常華麗!真的很華麗!

  • I worked closely with Jean Muir for nine years, but whatever the circumstancesto myself and to everyone else who worked with her, she remained 'Miss Muir', never Jean.  

    我與珍·繆爾緊密合作了九年,無論在什麼情況下,對我和其他曾與她共事的人來說,她會一直是我們的「繆爾小姐」,而不是珍。

  • Her uncompromising approach inspired tremendous loyalty.

    她決不放棄的精神使人們願意忠誠於她。

  • But the workroom staff, they were the people she really loved.

    但工作室的工作人員才是她最愛的人。

  • Look! Oh, no, no! Look! It says Miss J LumleyLittle buttons, satin, little darling dress, and I think it's probably in the Museum of Scotland now.

    你看!哦,不!不!你看!上面寫著我的名字!那些小鈕釦、緞子,多漂亮的一件小裙子,而且我想它現在可能被存放在蘇格蘭博物館裡。

  • I'm part of a museum piece. I'm so thrilled.

    我成了博物館收藏中的一部分。這太令人興奮了。

  • She respected craftsmanship, and that's why she rejected the title 'designer' and loved  'dressmaker'. She liked people who did things.

    她尊重匠人精神,這就是為什麼她拒絕「設計師」的稱號,而是喜歡被成為「裁縫師」。她喜歡做工的人。

  • Now, this is the nearest she got to designer logos. Lovely sleeves, flippety-floppity, little sweet neck.

    這是她少數展現計師標誌的作品——可愛的袖子、輕飄飄、漂亮的領口。

  • This is what the over stitching she was so renowned forwhite on this vivid green. Beautiful Perspex kind of designed by herjiggy-jaggy belt.

    這就是她最著名的過度縫合手法——豔綠色上的白色,還有出自她手的美麗 Perspex 壓克力皮帶。

  • When you wore Jean Muir, you were the star.

    你穿上珍·繆爾的設計,那一瞬間你就成了明星。

  • She couldn't bear it if the dress was going to look more important than you. It always did.

    她總是希望她的衣服可以襯托出你的美麗,但她的設計總是比你耀眼。

  • To be here in Bruton Street and to know that there's a blue plaque that has been dedicated to her is the absolute business.

    今天我們齊聚在布魯頓街,一同見證政府以藍色牌匾紀念珍·繆爾的成就這一件大事。

  • We'll never forget her, she's an immortal, she's a legend.  

    我們永遠不會忘記她,她是不朽的,她是傳奇。

  • Now this shows that Jean Muir is actually forever part of history. My greatest pride and honour is to unveil the plaque to Jean Muirthe best of the very best.

    珍·繆爾會和英國歷史一起流芳百世。能為最優秀的珍·繆爾主持揭開藍色牌匾儀式是我莫大的驕傲和榮譽。

  • She was remarkable you know. The more I think about her the more utterly exceptional she was.  

    她很了不起。我越提起她就越欽佩她。

  • I knew her and I worked for her. I walked for her, I wore her clothes. I knew a legend.

    我認識她、我為她工作、我為她走秀,我穿她設計的衣服。我有幸認識一個傳奇人物。

Okay, this is 22 Bruton Street, and today, Jean Muir has been remembered by a blue plaque up there on the wall and this is the salon that she had.

這裡是布魯頓街 22 號,今天我們在已故珍·繆爾的高級服裝店前舉行藍色牌匾揭幕儀式,紀念她對時尚界的貢獻。

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紀念傳奇!已故設計師珍·繆爾的藍色牌匾揭幕儀式 (Joanna Lumley on Jean Muir | Blue Plaque Unveiling 2021)

  • 1030 44
    Summer 發佈於 2021 年 10 月 23 日
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