Name: "タイタニック」のドレス＆メイクは歴史のに正しい？専門家が検索証。 (「タイタニック」のドレス＆メイクは歴史的に正しい？専門家が検証。| VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-08-07T19:30:40.000Z
Duration: 13 min 7 s

這是羅絲，你在《泰坦尼克號》中認識她。

Hi, I'm receiver Tanya and I'm a fashion historian.

你好，我是接收者坦尼婭，我是一名時尚史學家。

To walk us through what the movie got right and what they got wrong about these books.

帶我們瞭解電影對這些書的正確之處，以及他們的錯誤之處。

Titanic was based on actual historical events that took place in April of 1912 on route to America here we're at the height of gilded age society, but also at the beginning of modern fashion.

泰坦尼克號是根據1912年4月發生在前往美國途中的真實歷史事件改編的，在這裡我們正處於鍍金時代社會的高峰期，但也是現代時尚的開始。

This film was meticulously researched and the costume designer made sure that Rose had the latest style straight from paris costume designer Deborah Lynn scott actually won the Oscar for best costume design for this movie.

這部電影經過了細緻的研究，服裝設計師確保羅絲擁有直接來自巴黎的最新風格。服裝設計師黛博拉-林恩-斯科特（Deborah Lynn Scott）實際上因這部電影贏得了奧斯卡最佳服裝設計獎。

To research this film, she looked at extent garments in museum collections, but also fashion publications from that time period.

為了研究這部電影，她查看了博物館收藏的程度的服裝，也看了那個時期的時尚出版品。

Let's start with roses iconic suit The Titanic set sail at noon and we see rose wearing this cream striped afternoon suit.

讓我們從玫瑰的標誌性套裝開始 泰坦尼克號在中午啟航，我們看到玫瑰穿著這套奶油色條紋的午後套裝。

Roses afternoon suit looks almost exactly like a suit that appears in a French magazine in 1912.

玫瑰花的下午裝看起來幾乎與1912年出現在法國雜誌上的套裝一模一樣。

The perfect ensemble to be boarding a ship in the afternoon.

But let's draw roses day dress from the undergarments out.

但是，讓我們把玫瑰花日裝從內衣裡抽出來。

First up the underwear For the underwear, Rosewood have been wearing a shamis drawers and stockings.

首先是內衣 對於內衣，羅斯伍德一直穿著莎米斯的抽屜和絲襪。

The shimmies of 1912 is a little bit different from ones that we've previously looked at.

1912年的shimmies與我們之前看的那些有一點不同。

This one has a lot of delicate lace and a ruffled edge at the neckline.

這件衣服有很多精緻的蕾絲，領口有褶皺邊緣。

The drawers were less voluminous and they were in previous years, mostly because of the changing silhouette.

抽屜的體積沒有前幾年那麼大，主要是因為輪廓的變化。

You can see that she's wearing stockings here.

你可以看到，她在這裡穿著絲襪。

Stockings are made of knitted cotton or silk and were usually light colored for day.

長筒襪是由針織棉或絲綢製成的，通常是淺色的，用於白天。

Next the corset, We see rose being laced into a corset.

接下來是緊身衣，我們看到玫瑰被系在緊身衣上。

And one scene of the movie where she has a really important discussion with her mom.

還有電影中的一個場景，她和她媽媽進行了一次非常重要的討論。

You would like to see that again the year 1912 specifically.

It was a really interesting time for women and corsets because they were evolving and shaping with the silhouette.

對於女性和緊身衣來說，這是一個非常有趣的時期，因為它們在不斷髮展，並隨著輪廓的變化而塑形。

But the most modern women started to abandon the course.

但最現代的女性開始放棄了這一課程。

This scene perfectly illustrates this push and pull between this more tight laced past and more modern future.

這一幕完美地說明了這種更緊密的過去和更現代的未來之間的推拉關係。

This is really the beginning of the straightened silhouette that we will see in the 1920s, Just 10 years before the dramatic silhouette was called an S.

這確實是我們將在20世紀20年代看到的拉直的剪影的開始，就在戲劇性的剪影被稱為S型之前10年。

And you can see that in this picture here, even though the most modern women were already abandoning corsets in 1912, the really rigid traditions of the society in which rose lived really demanded that she wear one next layer.

你可以看到，在這張照片中，儘管最現代的女性在1912年已經放棄了緊身胸衣，但玫瑰所處的社會的真正僵化的傳統真的要求她下一層穿上。

Over the course it she would have worn a camisole and a petticoat.

在這個過程中，她會穿上吊帶衫和襯裙。

A camisole would have been worn to soften that rigid line at the top.

本來可以穿一件吊帶衫來柔化頂部的剛性線條。

The petticoats at this time period were pretty narrow, as we can see in this ad this exists somewhere between the full victorian petticoat and the modern slip.

這個時期的襯裙是相當狹窄的，正如我們在這則廣告中看到的，它存在於完整的維多利亞襯裙和現代拖鞋之間。

These two garments were typically cotton for the day.

這兩件衣服通常是當時的棉布。

We can see that Rose is wearing a really high collard shirt waist and accessorized with a necktie.

我們可以看到，羅斯穿著一件真正的高領襯衫腰部，並以領帶作為配飾。

The women's shirtwaist was derived from the man's button and collard shirt and was the first truly modern garment of the 20th century.

女式襯衫腰帶源於男士的鈕釦和衣領襯衫，是20世紀第一個真正的現代服裝。

Men's fashions started to influence women's wear beginning in the late 19th century, but by 1912 it was the norm.

男性的時尚從19世紀末開始影響女性的穿著，但到1912年，這已經成為常態。

The shirtwaist was also an egalitarian garment worn by both upper and lower classes.

襯衫腰帶也是一種平等主義的服裝，上層和下層階級都會穿。

When women's wear started to take influence from menswear, we got garments like this which were more comfortable and casual, and now the suit We know that this is the most up to date fashion because it appeared in the January 1912 issue of La Mode, which was a popular French fashion publication.

當女裝開始接受男裝的影響時，我們得到了像這樣的服裝，它們更加舒適和休閒，而現在的西裝 我們知道這是最新的時尚，因為它出現在1912年1月的《La Mode》雜誌上，這是一份流行的法國時尚出版品。

This particular example is made by the couture house linker in company, Bro's would have gone to a couture house to be fit and had this garment made specifically for her.

這個特別的例子是由公司的高級時裝店linker製作的，Bro's會去高級時裝店進行試穿，併為她專門製作這件衣服。

The tailor made was the name for women's walking suit.

Much like this one the tailor made was often warned for travel, which makes this entirely appropriate.

與這個很像，裁縫經常被警告說是為了旅行，這使得這個完全合適。

But there were other afternoon styles for different activities.

但也有其他下午的風格，用於不同的活動。

You can see in this deck seen that there are other women promenading, showing off similar ensembles.

你可以在這副牌中看到，還有其他婦女在遊行，炫耀著類似的服飾。

A very important part of ocean liner culture was showing off the latest fashions that you probably just bought in paris.

遠洋輪船文化的一個非常重要的部分是展示最新的時尚，而這些時尚可能是你剛剛在巴黎買的。

This costume hints at a very short lived fad from this time period called the hobble skirt.

這套服裝暗示了這一時期的一種非常短暫的時尚，叫做蹣跚的裙子。

As you can see the circumference of the skirt kind of narrows at the ankle and it was said that it really restricted the strides of women and they had to hobble around the next layer her shoes.

正如你所看到的，裙子的周長在腳踝處有點窄，據說這真的限制了婦女的步伐，她們不得不蹣跚著穿上下一層她的鞋子。

You can see her shoes right here when she steps out of the car and they look like these and then there's the gloves.

你可以看到她的鞋子就在這裡，當她走出汽車時，它們看起來像這些，然後是手套。

The very first thing we see of Rose is her white glove gloves, completed any gilded age ensemble and women wore gloves anytime they were seen in public, women would have coordinating gloves with each outfit and as you can see, her white gloves perfectly matched her cream suit.

我們看到的第一件事是她的白手套，完成了任何鍍金時代的合奏，婦女在任何時候在公共場合都會戴上手套，婦女在每件衣服上都會有協調的手套，正如你所看到的，她的白手套與她的奶油色套裝完美匹配。

Moving on to the hair when Rose removes her hat.

當羅絲摘下帽子時，轉到了頭髮上。

Later, indoors we get a good look at her hair.

後來，在室內我們可以好好看看她的頭髮。

She wears her hair up, which is accurate for her age and station hair was really only worn down by adolescents and young girls.

她把頭髮紮起來，這對她的年齡來說是準確的，車站的頭髮確實只有青少年和年輕女孩才會紮下來。

After one's debutante ball, you would wear your hair up.

在一個人的名媛舞會之後，你會把頭髮紮起來。

We do see rows with her hair down at other points of the movie.

我們確實在電影的其他地方看到了頭髮披散的行。

This could be anachronistic, but it was likely a character choice.

這可能是不合時宜的，但這很可能是一個角色選擇。

To really illustrate that Rose was an independent spirit and she really desired to break out of this constricting society over her hair would be the hat.

為了真正說明羅絲是一個獨立的精神，她真的希望在她的頭髮上突破這個束縛的社會，那就是帽子。

This hat is the most iconic feature of this costume and it really facilitates this dramatic reveal of her character.

這頂帽子是這套服裝最具標誌性的特徵，它確實促進了她的角色的這種戲劇性的揭示。

This style of hat was extremely fashionable for the time period, hats actually reached their widest around 1910 when the Brim would extend past the shoulders.

這種風格的帽子在當時是非常時尚的，帽子實際上在1910年左右達到最寬，當時帽簷會延伸到肩膀以上。

At that time, it was called a Merry Widow hat which is after a broadway play called The Merry Widow.

當時，它被稱為 "快樂的寡婦 "帽子，這是在一個名為 "快樂的寡婦 "的百老匯戲劇之後。

We can see that Roses hat is made out of a heavily stiffened straw and decorated with a wide tap it abo here.

我們可以看到，羅斯的帽子是由嚴重僵硬的稻草製成的，並在這裡裝飾有一個寬大的龍頭。

You can see another kind of decoration used on hats at the time.

你可以看到當時在帽子上使用的另一種裝飾。

是的，那是一隻被做成標本的鳥。

There was this trend of having taxidermy birds of top women's hats.

當時有這樣一種趨勢，就是把頂級女性的帽子做成標本鳥。

This was so fashionable that it eventually depleted bird populations and some species were even driven to endangerment or extinction.

這種做法非常時髦，最終使鳥類種群枯竭，一些物種甚至被逼到了瀕危或滅絕的境地。

Unsurprisingly, these large hats were the subject of satire at the time, because these hats were so large, the pins used to secure them were equally large at this time.

毫不奇怪，這些大帽子在當時是諷刺的對象，因為這些帽子太大，用來固定它們的針在這個時候也同樣大。

Some women would use these really long hat pins as weapons to fend off predatory men and these especially long hat pins could prove quite dangerous.

一些婦女會用這些非常長的帽針作為武器來抵禦掠奪性的男人，這些特別長的帽針可能被證明是相當危險的。

And this phenomenon was so widespread that the media termed it the hat pin peril.

而這種現象是如此普遍，以至於媒體將其稱為帽針的危險。

Here's what Roses Day suit would have looked like compared to the movie.

以下是與電影相比，玫瑰日套裝會是什麼樣子。

So this is entirely accurate, but let's add a bird.

所以這完全是準確的，但讓我們加上一隻鳥。

Another aspect of ocean liner culture were these lavish nightly dinners on board because this is a nightly affair.

遠洋輪船文化的另一個方面是船上這些豪華的夜宴，因為這是一個晚上的事情。

We see a couple different dinner dresses on Rose.

我們看到羅斯身上有幾件不同的晚宴禮服。

This was the height of gilded age society and these women were spending more money than ever before on their clothes.

這是鍍金時代社會的高峰，這些婦女在衣服上的花費比以往任何時候都多。

So much so that they would have a different dinner dress for every night.

以至於他們每天晚上都會有不同的晚宴禮服。

These costumes were modeled off of real dresses, so these are also accurate.

這些服裝是以真實的衣服為模型，所以這些也是準確的。

Now we're going to draw every layer of the evening dress.

現在我們要畫出晚禮服的每一層。

First up the underwear, the underwear would be the same, but it would probably be silk instead of cotton for evening.

首先是內衣，內衣會是一樣的，但可能是絲綢，而不是晚上的棉花。

She would be wearing stockings and we do see that she wears black ones in the scene when she's dancing with Jack.

她會穿上絲襪，我們確實看到她在與傑克跳舞的那場戲中穿了黑色的絲襪。

Okay, for both of these evening dresses, darker stockings would be appropriate.

好吧，對於這兩件晚禮服來說，深色的長襪是合適的。

And then the corset when dressing for dinner, Rose might switch out her corset for a finer one made out of silk.

然後是緊身胸衣，當為晚餐穿衣時，羅絲可能會把她的緊身胸衣換成用絲綢製成的更精細的胸衣。

Rose would have likely purchased her corset from a specialty shop in paris if she was already there shopping.

如果羅絲已經在巴黎購物，她很可能會在那裡的一家專門店購買她的胸衣。

And then the next layer, an alternative to the camisole and petticoat was this single garment called the Princess petticoat, which is similar to what would later be called the slip for an evening dress.

然後下一層，吊帶衫和襯裙的替代品是這種被稱為公主襯裙的單一服裝，它類似於後來被稱為晚禮服的襯裙。

This fine, a princess petticoat made out of a coordinating colored fabric would be standard.

這樣一來，用協調的彩色織物製成的公主襯裙將成為標準。

You can see the inspiration behind roses, costumes in the designs from these very prominent designers from 1912.

你可以從1912年這些非常著名的設計師的設計中看到玫瑰花、服裝背後的靈感。

As you can see in these examples, a lot of these dresses incorporated layers of sheer fabric that were then embellished with beating The fashionable silhouette of 1912, was actually remarkably similar to that of 1812.

正如你在這些例子中所看到的，這些裙子有很多都是用透明的織物層，然後用跳動來點綴。 1912年的時尚輪廓，實際上與1812年的輪廓非常相似。

You can see a high waistline with a narrow skirt both here and here.

你在這裡和這裡都可以看到高腰線的窄裙。

This is an era in which Parisian designers were really creating the most forward thinking designs.

這是一個巴黎設計師真正創造出最有前瞻性的設計的時代。

One of the most modern of modern designers was Lady Duff Gordon, who went by the name Lucille when she was a designer.

現代設計師中最現代的一位是達夫-戈登女士，她在做設計師的時候叫露西爾。

And actually she is a character in this film.

而實際上她是這部影片中的一個角色。

在這裡，你看到一位達夫-戈登女士？

She designs naughty lingerie among her many talents, but she wasn't just a lingerie designer.

在她的眾多才能中，她設計了調皮的內衣，但她並不只是一個內衣設計師。

She was actually a pioneer in the fashion field.

她實際上是時尚領域的先驅者。

She actually instituted the practice of draping fabric on a model instead of flat patterning, which is standard practice now, but she really pioneered it.

她實際上制定了在模特身上垂下織物而不是平鋪圖案的做法，這是現在的標準做法，但她真正開創了這種做法。