Name: エクストリーム歌舞伎メイク＆風船コスチューム-ジェンキン・ヴァン・ジル | Extreme Beauty | VOGUE JAPAN (エクストリーム歌舞伎メイク＆風船コスチューム－ジェンキン・ヴァン・ジル | Extreme Beauty | VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-03-22T20:40:31.000Z
Duration: 11 min 16 s

I'm gonna be getting ready into prosthetics and then a kind of Kabuki makeup lip.

我要準備進假肢，然後是一種歌舞伎妝的脣。

I guess my kind of everyday look is this, like, highly theatrical, sort of like Ballet Russe dancer that's been dragged through the medieval Hellmouth.

我想我的日常造型是這樣的，就像，高度戲劇化的，有點像芭蕾舞演員，被拖過中世紀的地獄之門。

And I've always kind of collected theater costume from, like, cheap costume Marco sales and online auctions.

我一直都在收集戲劇服裝，比如，廉價服裝馬可銷售和網上拍賣。

Yeah, I kind of wear, like, head to toe the costume every day.

是啊，我每天從頭到腳都穿著這身衣服。

But today we're kind of shifting into this, like, more elevated inflatable latex muscular fantasy.

但今天，我們是一種轉變到這一點，像，更高的充氣乳膠肌肉的幻想。

So for the first stage, I'm gonna apply my contact lenses off camera because I have very stubby, awkward fingers, and I'm also going to just pin back my awkwardly grown out.

所以第一階段，我要在鏡頭外塗抹隱形眼鏡，因為我的手指很粗壯，很笨拙，我也要把我笨拙長出來的手指夾回去。

好吧，這就是我的眼睛和頭髮。

I'm gonna clean the area around my forehead, and then I'm gonna apply the silicone horns, so I do.

我先把額頭周圍的地方清理乾淨，然後再塗上硅膠角，這樣就可以了。

I do wear horns every day, and I've gotten into the bad habit of sleeping in horns now as well, which I feel like is a one way street street.

我確實每天都戴著喇叭，我現在也養成了戴著喇叭睡覺的壞習慣，我覺得這是一條單行道。

Um, I'm not gonna be able to get back from.

So I grew up in sorry to like to South African parents, Um, in this kind of quite leafy sleepy forest, the area I just had, like a really obsessive, entrusted the spooky and go anything like horrific.

所以，我從小在對不起喜歡南非的父母，嗯，在這種相當葉子沉睡的森林，該地區我只是有，像一個真正的執著，委託的幽靈和去任何東西一樣可怕。

So I guess, like all kind of spooky Children, I used any occasion as an excuse for fancy dress.

所以我想，就像所有的幽靈兒童一樣，我把任何場合都當做了化裝的藉口。

So weddings, or like friends birthdays will be some kind of excuse to get into a bog witch outfit.

所以婚禮，或者像朋友生日都會有一些藉口來穿上沼澤女巫的衣服。

And I would start by like, kind of like breaking into my mom's like bathroom and, like slathering on pseudo cram a centimeter thick all over my face and then setting it with talcum powder like fashioning women hood out of like whatever I could find in my mom's closet as I grew up like I became like, really lured in by fans in music people like early PJ Harvey like rid of Mira Nico, Grace Jones, um, Kate Bush, who all sort of used role playing their music to harbor these like, different like sometimes like violent, sometimes erotic, sometimes like hopeful fantasies that I think taught me in this idea that, like identity, could be something slippery and multiple.

我會開始喜歡，那種喜歡闖入我媽媽的像浴室，像塗抹上偽擠一釐米厚的所有在我的臉上，然後設置它與滑石粉像時尚婦女罩出像什麼，我可以找到在我媽媽的衣櫃裡，因為我長大了，我成為喜歡。真的被音樂界的粉絲們吸引住了 像早期的PJ哈維一樣的人 就像擺脫了米拉-尼科，格蕾絲-瓊斯，嗯，凱特-布什，他們都用角色扮演他們的音樂來承載這些喜歡，不同的喜歡有時像暴力，有時像色情，有時像充滿希望的幻想，我想在這個想法中教會了我，就像身份，可能是滑溜溜的東西和多種。

The first moved to London when I was 18 and moved that to do the foundation art course.

我18歲的時候第一次搬到倫敦，搬那去做藝術基礎課程。

On the first day, when I was moving my bags in my flatmate, Alice was sat in the kitchen with her legs spread like wide open, pouring a slurry of like, mushy peas and re fried beans over her fanny.

第一天，當我在室友那裡搬行李的時候，愛麗絲坐在廚房裡，雙腿像張開了一樣，在她的腰上倒著一攤像，糊糊的豌豆和再炒的豆子。

And I was like, Oh, I've like, arrived at art school when you're like, thrown into this kind of like queer landscape.

我當時想，哦，我喜歡， 到達藝術學校時，你喜歡， 扔進這種喜歡的同志景觀。

The most important and like vibrant thing about queer culture is this idea that it's both optimistic but necessary, sort of like laboratory for the construction of new identities, whether they be sort of deviant or troublesome or vibrant, that even if something is like, really horrific, to approach it with a kind of lightness and playfulness is really important to me.

關於同志文化最重要的和像充滿活力的事情是這個想法，它是既樂觀又必要的，有點像實驗室的建設新的身份，無論他們是那種離經叛道或麻煩或充滿活力的，即使有些東西是喜歡，真的很可怕，接近它與一種輕盈和俏皮的是真的很重要的我。

Art can be the best excuse for bad behavior, and it lets you kind of get away with things that can be like disruptive and subversive, because I grew up like I was really like groomed by the like filmography of people like Almodovar.

藝術可以是最好的藉口 壞的行為， 它讓你有點擺脫的東西 可以像破壞性和顛覆性的， 因為我長大了，我真的很喜歡培養 像阿爾莫多瓦的人的電影目錄。

So I would like obsessively like re watch and rewatch and re watch his films.

所以我想執著地喜歡重看重看重看他的電影。

I think I had, like, my first erotic experience watching Chicago and have ever since been in love with Velma Kelly, that heady mix of like hi fam and melodrama like really embedded this queer subconscious that I wasn't really even like, able to articulate or figure out in my own work.

我想我有一樣，我的第一個色情的經驗看芝加哥，並從此愛上了維爾瑪凱利，那令人頭暈目眩的混合像喜劇和情節劇一樣，真的嵌入這個同志的潛意識，我是不是真的甚至喜歡，能夠闡明或找出在我自己的工作。

Or I think that it was when I moved to London that a lot of these ideas will got consolidated its like, um, liquid later.

或者說，我覺得當我搬到倫敦的時候，很多的想法都會得到鞏固，就像，嗯，後來的液體。

So you like triple this on to cover up my barb scissor marks like give slopes and texture and stuff.

所以，你喜歡三倍的這個上，以掩蓋我的倒鉤剪刀痕... ...像給斜坡和紋理之類的東西。

So it's kind of like a Pinocchio, just a style like pop nose.

所以它有點像匹諾曹，只是風格像爆鼻。

Mhm, I found, like when I moved to London that I was a lot of the like parties that I was going to either.

嗯，我發現，就像我搬到倫敦的時候，我發現，我是很多喜歡的聚會，我是去要麼。

These like high kind of dress up like drag parties or like, really slippery like grimy basement corridors.

這些像高的那種裝扮像變裝派對或像，真的很滑的像陰暗的地下室走廊。

I think that's when I realized that, like my fantasies for like, wearing like five piece like heavy brocade like to to theater costumes didn't really like, line up with, like, club experience.

我想那是我意識到的時候，就像我的幻想一樣， 穿著五件像厚重的錦緞一樣的衣服去劇院的服裝並不真的像，符合，像，俱樂部的經驗。

I much, much much prefer dressing up to do something really pedestrian or everyday, like going to a museum or like just making an occasion out of like, going to feed the Ducks.

我非常，非常喜歡打扮 做一些真正的行人或日常的， 像去博物館或像只是做一個場合了喜歡， 去餵鴨子。

I actually find like I find, like, dressing up to go to a club like at points like insufferably like painful and like, annoying and like.

實際上，我發現像我發現，喜歡，打扮去俱樂部 像在點像令人難以忍受的喜歡痛苦和喜歡，煩人和喜歡。

I'm happiest going out when I'm wearing the least now that the prosthetics are and I'm going to start applying the clown white, um, and just cover everything we're doing this kind of bluish white.

我最開心的是出門的時候穿的最少，現在假肢是，我要開始塗抹小丑白，嗯，就把我們做的一切都覆蓋在這種藍白色上。

It was only like, really in my final year, studying it on my B A that I kind of started the current trajectory of installation work that reconfigures and recycles debris and detritus from film and theatre sex.

就像，真的是在最後一年，在我的B A上學習它，我才算是開始了現在的裝置作品的軌跡，重新配置和回收電影和戲劇性的碎片和殘渣。

And then, since then, I've kind of been working on this like trio with films this partially abandon like spaghetti Western film set in the south of Spain that we broke into and film this kind of like cowboy horror.

然後，從那時起，我就一直在研究這種像三重奏的電影，這種部分放棄像意大利麵條的西部電影，設置在西班牙南部，我們闖入並拍攝這種像牛仔的恐怖片。

So it was this kind of process of like ducking and diving, hiding from like guard dogs.

所以就是這樣一個過程，像躲貓貓一樣，躲著像警犬一樣。

I made this film learners that was sat in these huge game of throne fortresses that were decaying in the Atlas Mountains.

我拍的這部電影學習者，是坐在這些巨大的遊戲王座堡壘中，在阿特拉斯山脈中衰敗的。

The most recent film that I made in vitro features.

The sex talk of ghouls that are breeding cakes in an underground bunker city made out of the husks of buried charter gels is thinking about this way in which capitalism and the universe in which these characters exist positions identity is the center of the universe.

在一個由埋藏的包機凝膠的外殼做成的地下碉堡城市裡，正在孕育蛋糕的食屍鬼的性愛談話，是在思考資本主義和這些人物存在的宇宙中定位身份是宇宙的中心的這種方式。

And in this film, the characters kind of try and break free through a call for, like, multiplicity and proliferation.

而在這部電影中，角色們某種程度上試圖通過對，比如，多元性和擴散性的呼籲來掙脫。

So now I'm going to do the kind of face framing black painting around my neck, the ears and my hairline.

所以現在我打算在脖子上、耳朵上、髮際線上做那種臉部框黑畫。

Now that the bases on, I'm going to set it up with a second holder.

現在，基礎上，我打算用第二個支架來設置它。

Can you bright areas of the face with white holder.

你可以用白色的支架亮出臉部的區域。

Uh, I'm gonna go in with the blue powder contours, so I think like my favorite, my favorite kind of like costuming is this combination of, like, high pomp and like, hi, fam.

呃，我要去與藍色粉末輪廓， 所以我認為像我最喜歡的， 我最喜歡的那種喜歡的服裝是這樣的組合， 像，高浮誇和像，你好，範姆。

My favorite piece that I have is this like, slightly tacky matador outfit.

我最喜歡的作品，我有這個喜歡，稍微俗氣的鬥牛士裝備。

And I love to wear things like chain mail and armor and anything that, like blends, are like absurd with the fantastical.

我喜歡穿的東西，比如鍊甲和盔甲，還有任何東西，比如混合的，就像荒誕與奇幻。

Now I am going to kind of like add the blush, unlike pink areas of the face.

現在我打算有點像加腮紅，不像粉色區域的臉。

So I guess this is like a progression from the the blue Kabuki makeup that I've been doing.

所以，我想這就像是我一直在做的藍色歌舞伎妝的進步。

But just like protruding, like all of the the point is parts of the face.

但就像突出的一樣，像所有的點都是臉的一部分。

Now I'm going to kind of start to map out some of the like graphic details on the eye and the chin and kind of like hair curls.

現在我要開始繪製一些像眼睛和下巴上的圖形細節，還有像頭髮捲曲的那種。

So for that, I'm just gonna use liquid eyeliner dot I'm just a big drag fan I love like old drag like Blackpool drag, I think, the best like drag queen and under the shower in the ground.

所以，我只是要用液體眼線點我只是一個很大的變裝迷，我喜歡像老變裝像黑池變裝，我想，最好的像變裝皇后和下淋浴在地面。

She's like good old friend and like icon, and I think that she mixes this like, perfect blend of, like, kind of really old school drag aesthetics with like insane humor and slag Penis, and I think it's like, really inspiring.

她就像很好的老朋友和喜歡的圖標， 我認為，她混合這個喜歡，完美的融合， 喜歡，那種真正的老派拖美學 與像瘋狂的幽默和渣陰莖， 我認為這是一樣，真的很鼓舞人心。

I'm going to carry on, like, kind of mapping that out through the rest of my face and then, like, color in all of the sections of the the I.

我要繼續，喜歡，那種映射出 通過我的臉的其餘部分，然後，喜歡，顏色在所有的部分的I。

So now I'm just gonna add, like, some kind of highlight details to pick up bits of the ice, and then we're done with makeup.

所以現在我只需要添加一些高光的細節，比如說，把冰塊的部分挑起來，然後我們就可以完成化妝了。

A kind of course thing I'm looking at in my work is this idea of, like, having fun with things that hurt you.

在我的工作中，我所看重的一種當然是這種想法，比如，對那些傷害你的東西感到開心。

And so a lot of the film's tease out this kind of like we're re enactment of those kind of masculine tropes in an attempt to sort of, like, blow them out of proportion and render them, like, ridiculous.

所以很多電影都是在挑逗我們重新演繹那些男性化的典故，試圖把它們吹得不成比例，讓它們變得荒謬。

So I'm just gonna start kind of distributing pearls across the phase just to add some light dimension into these, like, hollowed out eyes.

所以我要開始在整個相位上分佈珍珠，為這些空心的眼睛增加一些光的維度。

Yeah, I think, um, I'm gonna, like, release the hair and then set things in place.

是啊，我想，嗯，我要去，喜歡，釋放的頭髮，然後設置的地方的東西。

For me, it should be like a joyful thing that, like, constantly surprises you.

對我來說，它應該就像一件快樂的事情，比如，不斷給你帶來驚喜。

It's always looking for opportunity to surprise yourself through, like the places that you can reach with it.

它總是在尋找機會，通過它來給自己帶來驚喜，比如你能用它到達的地方。

It's a case of realizing that approach yourself and the way that you put yourself together or something that's not static.

這是一個實現方法自己和你把自己的方式或東西，不是靜態的。

And it's always open to so letting desire surprise you.

而且它總是開放的，所以讓慾望給你帶來驚喜。

I just need to kind of slick the hair around and get on some accessories.

我只需要把頭髮打理一下，然後戴上一些飾品。

Um, and then I'm gonna slink into my mission, man.

嗯，然後我要去溜達到我的任務，男人。

It's important to take fantasy really seriously.

真正認真對待幻想是很重要的。

For me, like, fantasy is the only thing that helps make sense of the world that is so like, unceasingly nonlinear and harsh.

對我來說，喜歡，幻想是唯一能幫助我理解這個世界的東西，它是如此的喜歡，不斷的非線性和殘酷。

I think, like, kind of being able to, like, make opportunity for fantasy in the everyday.

我想，就像，那種能夠，就像，在日常中製造幻想的機會。