a more quintessential food in Wisconsin?

威斯康星州更典型的食物？

Wisconsin cheese curds have a signature orange color,

威斯康星州的奶酪凝結物具有標誌性的橙色。

they have a unique flavor

別有一番風味

that can vary depending on the batch,

可以根據批次的不同而有所不同。

and, most importantly, when you bite into them,

而且，最重要的是，當你咬住它們。

they must, must squeak,

他們必須，必須吱吱作響。

which tells you the curd is a good one.

這說明你的腐乳是好的。

We're here in Door County,

我們在門縣。

and we're about to meet Chris Renard,

而我們即將見到克里斯-雷納德。

a third-generation artisanal cheesemaker

第三代手工奶酪製作者。

who's been making cheese his entire life.

他一輩子都在做奶酪。

They're going to show us

他們要給我們看

how milk turns into this savory, squeaky snack.

牛奶是如何變成這種美味的，吱吱作響的小吃。

The process itself takes four hours.

這個過程本身需要四個小時。

It starts with cheesemakers releasing 20,000 pounds

首先是奶酪製造商釋放出2萬磅的奶酪

of pasteurized whole milk into a large open vat.

巴氏殺菌全脂奶放入一個敞口的大桶中。

Chris: All the milk that comes in today

克里斯：今天來的所有牛奶

we'll make into cheese tomorrow.

我們明天會做成奶酪。

For every 10 pounds of milk,

每10斤牛奶。

you get about 1 pound of cheese on average.

你得到大約1磅的奶酪平均。

Medha: Luckily, Wisconsin is the perfect place

梅達幸運的是，威斯康星州是一個完美的地方。

to get all this milk locally.

在當地獲得這些牛奶。

The state has about 1.3 million cows.

該州約有130萬頭奶牛。

And with that much dairy available,

而且有了那麼多的乳製品可供選擇。

they take cheese production seriously.

他們認真對待奶酪生產。

It's the only state in the United States

這是美國唯一的州。

that requires a special license

特許

to sell any cheese of any kind, including curds.

出售任何種類的奶酪，包括凝乳；

Chris gets his milk from 24 family farms in the area

Chris的牛奶來自該地區的24個家庭農場。

that work together with the dairy plant

與乳品廠合作的

as a cheesemaking ecosystem.

作為一個奶酪製作生態系統。

Chris: Depending on the milk that

克里斯：根據牛奶的

comes in that day,

那天來的。

the temperature outside,

外面的溫度。

what the cows have eaten at the time of the year,

牛在一年的時間裡吃了什麼。

every vat of cheese will have a slightly different flavor.

每一桶奶酪都會有稍微不同的味道。

Medha: All that pasteurized milk gets mixed

梅達所有的巴氏殺菌奶都混在一起

with just a little annatto seed coloring

加點紅豆種子色素

to give it that orange hue.

給予它橙色的色調。

Wisconsinites prefer their curds orange,

威斯康星人更喜歡他們的橘子。

while cheesemakers on the East Coast stick to white cheddar.

而東海岸的奶酪製造商則堅持使用白切達奶酪。

For a vat that holds 20,000 pounds of milk,

對於一個能裝2萬斤牛奶的大桶。

Renard's adds only 29 ounces of coloring.

雷納德的只添加了29盎司的色素。

Chris: The seed comes from either

克里斯：種子來自於以下兩種情況

South Africa or South America.

南非或南美。

It does not affect the flavor.

並不影響風味。

Medha: What does affect the flavor

梅達什麼會影響到味道？

is the rennet.

是凝固劑。

Unlike cheesemakers in Europe,

與歐洲的奶酪製造商不同。

Chris doesn't use animal rennet to make his cheese curds,

克里斯不用動物凝乳來製作他的奶酪凝乳。

which together with the starter cultures

它與啟動培養物一起

breaks down the milk into cheese.

將牛奶分解成奶酪。

Chris: The rennet we use is a microbial rennet.

Chris：我們使用的凝血劑是微生物凝血劑。

We've found it works the best with the cheese.

我們發現它與奶酪的效果最好。

That rennet does a really nice job of setting it up,

那個凝固劑的設置真的很不錯。

and the enzymes of the rennet help with the aging process.

和凝乳酶有助於老化過程。

Medha: And so we see over here,

美達所以我們看到在這裡。

just observing in the room, it's getting really steamy.

只是在房間裡觀察， 它變得真正的蒸汽。

Chris: We cook everything with a bath with steam.

克里斯：我們用蒸汽浴來烹飪一切。

So no matter what time of the year it is,

所以不管是在什麼時候。

it's always warm in the cheese factory.

奶酪工廠裡總是很溫暖的。

Cooking it for a couple reasons.

烹飪它有幾個原因。

One, it's gonna help firm that cheese up

第一，它能讓你的奶酪更結實。

and take some of the moisture out.

並帶走一些水分。

But it also -- you want the starter

但它也... ... 你想要的啟動器

to be at the optimal temperature.

處於最佳溫度。

Medha: What temperature range

美達什麼溫度範圍

do you want to be in for this?

你想成為在為這個？

Chris: We're gonna cook this to 100 degrees.

我們要把這個煮到100度。

Medha: What happens when the cheese mixture

梅達會發生什麼，當奶酪混合物

gets to 100 degrees?

得到100度？

Chris: We will shut off the steam

克里斯：我們將關閉蒸汽

so it doesn't get any hotter.

所以它不會變得更熱。

But what we'll also do is then we keep agitating.

但我們也會做的是，然後我們繼續煽動。

The reason is, is we want to firm this curd up.

原因是，是我們要把這個凝固起來。

We want the nice squeaky cheese curd you're gonna get.

我們要的是好的吱吱作響的乳酪凝結物

If your starter cultures don't get to the right temperature,

如果你的啟動培養物沒有達到合適的溫度。

you'll have an off flavor.

你會有一種異樣的味道。

So, once the cheese firms up,

所以，一旦奶酪結實了。

the milk coagulates and it gets nice and firm,

牛奶凝結，變得又好又結實。

then we'll take wire knives, and we run that through.

然後，我們將採取鐵絲刀， 我們運行，通過。

And that is cutting it into curds and whey.

還有就是把它切成凝乳和乳清。

Medha: Those wire knives are called cheese harps,

梅達這些鐵絲刀被稱為奶酪豎琴。

and they've been around since the 1960s.

而且他們從60年代就開始出現了。

Once the cheese is cut,

一旦奶酪被切開。

it takes about two and a half hours

約需兩個半小時

until you see actual curds start to form.

直到你看到實際的凝結物開始形成。

Cheesemakers here aim for a nice even cut.

這裡的奶酪製造商的目標是要切得均勻。

The more even the cut, the more the whey is expelled

切口越均勻，排出的乳清越多。

and the cheese sticks together.

和奶酪粘在一起。

Chris: We're stirring it right now

克里斯：我們現在正在攪拌它。

to keep it from clumping.

以防止其結塊。

One of the reasons we do what we do hands-on

我們做這些工作的原因之一是我們的實踐。

is we can watch and control all that.

是我們可以觀察和控制這一切。

We don't have to worry about a malfunction of equipment.

我們不用擔心設備出現故障。

We're literally doing it.

我們真的在做。

What we're doing right now is checking

我們現在要做的是檢查

to make sure the cheese curds are firm.

以確保奶酪凝固。

We want the right firmness to move on to the next process.

我們要有正確的堅定性，才能進入下一個過程。

If you leave it too soft, the proteins, calcium,

如果你把它放得太軟，蛋白質，鈣。

some of that's gonna expel out in your whey.

一些是要去排出 在你的乳清。

Medha: As soon as cheesemakers like Chris

梅達只要像克里斯這樣的奶酪製造商

approve the texture and pH level,

準許質地和pH值。

whey is removed from the vat

乳清從缸中取出

and pumped into a cream separator.

並泵入奶油分離器。

The cream is sold to Pine River Dairy to make butter,

奶油賣給松江乳業公司做黃油。

while the whey is sold off to make whey proteins.

而乳清則被賣掉製成乳清蛋白。

Once a majority of the whey is drained,

一旦大部分乳清被排出。

cheesemakers draw the curd to the sides of the vat

酪匠將凝乳拉到桶邊上。

and let the whey continue to drain down the center.

並讓乳清繼續從中間排出。

This process is called ditching.

這個過程叫溝渠化。

Chris: We're pushing the cheese to the sides,

克里斯：我們要把奶酪推到兩邊。

and we're firming it, pushing it together

我們正在鞏固它，把它推到一起。

so it's one solid piece.

所以它是一個堅實的一塊。

Medha: Am I doing this right?

梅達我這樣做是正確的嗎？

Chris: You're doing it good.

克里斯：你做得很好。

Yes, push right -- there you go.

是的，向右推 -- 就這樣。

Medha: Like that? Chris: Yep.

梅達像這樣？克里斯：是的。

Medha: Or too much? Chris: No, you're OK.

梅達還是太多？克里斯：不，你還行。

Medha: And then one more? Chris: Yep.

梅達然後再來一個?克里斯：對。

Push it just so it firms up, there you go.

用力推，讓它牢固起來，就這樣。

Medha: Oh, so you don't have to push that hard!

梅達哦，所以你不用那麼用力！

Chris: This big mass of cheese

這一大團奶酪

is gonna get trimmed into slabs.

是要去得到修剪成板塊。

And those slabs will be about 20 pounds.

而這些石板會有20斤左右。

Medha: And so what are you doing now?

梅達所以你現在在做什麼？

You're cutting the...

你在切...

Chris: We're gonna level it off,

克里斯：我們要把它弄平。

and then we're gonna break up all this cheese on top

然後我們要把這些奶酪放在上面打碎

so it all gets matted into one slab.

所以，它都得到墊成一塊板。

Medha: Oh, I see.

梅達哦，我明白了。

What do we do?

我們該怎麼做？

I just do this?

我只是做這個？

Chris: You can break it up, yep.

克里斯：你可以把它拆開，是的。

Medha: Oh, my God!

梅達哦，我的上帝！

So we're breaking it up so that it can layer on top.

所以我們要把它打碎了，這樣就可以層層疊加。

Chris: So it's gonna knit all back in together

所以，它要去編織所有回在一起。

as we roll it over and stack it up.

當我們把它翻過來疊起來的時候。

[Medha grunts]

[梅達咕噥]

This is a good hand massage.

這是個不錯的手部按摩。

Chris: Right now, this moisture you're feeling in here

現在，你在這裡感受到的溼氣。

is probably in the 43-to-45 range.

可能是在43到45之間。

So it's a higher moisture percentage.

所以它的水分比例比較高。

We don't want it too firm, too hard.

我們不希望它太堅固，太硬。

Medha: And why?

美達為什麼？

Chris: 'Cause you want to keep the squeak,

克里斯：因為你想保持吱吱聲。

the moisture in it. The rubbery texture.

其中的水分。的橡膠質地。

Medha: Hopefully I'm helping. [laughs]

梅達希望我的幫助。[笑]

Chris: You are.

克里斯：你是。

Medha: And what are you doing now?

美達你現在在做什麼？

Chris: What we're doing is we're gonna take

我們要做的是，我們要採取的是

all the fines, the smaller curds,

所有的罰款，較小的凝結物。

and we want to mill it in so we get

我們想把它磨碎，這樣我們就能得到。

as much of our yield as possible.

儘可能多的我們的產量。

Medha: So grab it? Chris: Pick up the front.

梅達所以抓住它？克里斯：接前面的。

Slide your hand down the cut side.

把你的手從切面上滑下來。

Medha: This way? Chris: Yep.

美達這邊？克里斯：對。

And turn it right over it.

並將其右轉過來。

And then you're gonna just slide it nice and tight.

然後你要去只是滑動它很好地和緊。

We wanna mat and knit all this cheese

我們想用墊子把這些奶酪編織起來

together in one solid slab.

在一個堅實的板塊中一起。

Medha: Oh, gravity will mold it, basically.

梅達哦，重力會塑造它，基本上。

Chris: Mold it together, yep.

克里斯：一起成型吧，是的。

Now we're gonna flip it one more time,

現在我們要再翻轉一次。

and then we are gonna cut it and stack it.

然後我們要把它切開，疊好。

Medha: Like -- OK.

梅達好吧

Chris: I'll let you get the first one,

克里斯：我讓你拿到第一個。

and I'll get the rest.

剩下的就交給我吧

[Medha grunts]

[梅達咕噥]

[laughing] OK!

[笑]OK！

Afterward, Chris checks

之後，克里斯檢查

the acidity level of the cheese.

奶酪的酸度水準。

And if it is in the correct range,

而如果是在正確的範圍內。

they will begin to mill it up into cheese curds.

他們會開始把它磨成奶酪凝乳。

And what if it doesn't hit your desired pH level?

如果沒有達到你想要的pH值呢？

Chris: We'll leave it to sit.

克里斯：我們就不討論了。

That's one of the things about being a small artisan plant.

這也是做小工坊的一個特點。

We can leave the cheese sit if it's not where we want it,

如果奶酪不在我們想要的地方，我們可以不放。

and don't have to force it through.

而不必強求。

Medha: The cheese is washed with warm water

美達。奶酪是用溫水洗的

to expel any extra whey,

以排出多餘的乳清。

then salted three times.

然後鹽漬三遍。

This is done to seal in and enhance the flavor

這樣做的目的是為了封存和提升風味。

and also control the pH of the cheese.

並且還可以控制奶酪的pH值。

Chris: We're breaking up all the clumps

我們要把所有的團塊打散

just so we get the salt to distribute evenly.

只是為了讓鹽均勻分佈。

The salt's absorbing into

鹽的吸收進入

all the small pores in the piece of cheese.

奶酪片上所有的小孔。

Medha: So, is this the final product?

梅達所以，這是最終產品？

Chris: This would be cheese curds.

克里斯：這應該是奶酪凝乳。

Medha: And what's the difference between

美達有什麼區別

a cheddar curd flavor and a plain curd flavor?

一個切達乾酪味和一個普通乾酪味？

Chris: One of the differences you'll notice,

克里斯：你會發現其中一個不同之處。

like a young cheddar compared to a young Colby,

就像一個年輕的切達和一個年輕的科比相比。

in the first seven to 10 days

頭七天到十天

you're not gonna taste much difference at all in flavor.

你不會嚐到太多的區別 在所有的味道。

But after that 10-to-14-day range,

但在這10天到14天的範圍後。

when the cultures start really getting

當文化開始真正得到

a foothold in the cheese,

酪的立足點。

the flavors will start to differ faster.

味道會更快地開始不同。

My cheesemakers probably try one curd

我的奶酪製造商可能會嘗試一個凝乳。

out of every batch they make.

在他們做的每一批產品中。

Medha: Oh, my gosh, can we try?

梅達哦，我的天哪，我們可以試試嗎？

Chris: Yes, we can. Medha: Are we allowed to?

克里斯：是的，我們可以。梅達：是的，我們可以。我們可以嗎？

Wow.

哇哦

I love the texture of your cheese curds.

我喜歡你的奶酪凝結物的質地。

Chris: Thank you.

克里斯：謝謝你。

Medha: That's wonderful.

梅達這是美妙的。

In total, a plant like Renard's can sell

像Renard這樣的工廠總共可以賣出

about 1,500 to 2,000 pounds of cheese curds a day.

每天大約1500到2000磅的奶酪凝結物。

Some of the curds are sent to be breaded

有些凝乳被送去做麵包了

at restaurants to fry,

在餐廳炒。

while others are packaged and sold fresh at stores.

而另一些則是包裝後在商店裡新鮮出售。

Chris wouldn't let me return to Chicago

克里斯不讓我回芝加哥

without trying Renard's myriad of curd flavors.

沒有嘗試過Renard的無數種凝乳口味。

So, we're going to try the different flavors

所以，我們要嘗試不同的口味。

of cheese curds that Renard's has for us.

雷納德為我們準備的奶酪凝乳。

All of these cheese curds are their cheddar cheese curds,

這些奶酪凝乳都是他們的切達奶酪凝乳。

but they have different seasonings on top.

但它們上面的調料不同。

All right, let's give it a go.

好吧，我們來試試。

Mm! Can you hear the squeaking?

你能聽到吱吱聲嗎？你能聽到吱吱聲嗎？

I don't know if you can hear it.

不知道你能不能聽到。

This is so squeaky.

這是如此吱吱作響。

It feels so fresh.

感覺很新鮮。

And it has a little hint of ranch.

而且有一點牧場的味道。

As you can tell, it's the ranch flavor.

你可以看出，這是牧場的味道。

It's a little bit moist, but it's also in between

有點溼潤，但也在兩者之間。

a soft mozzarella and a hard, aged cheddar.

軟的馬蘇裡拉奶酪和硬的老切達奶酪。

It's basically smack-dab in the middle,

基本上都在中間。

where you get the softness of it,

你哪裡來的柔情。

but it's also, it has a little bit of a bite.

但它也，它有一點點的咬。

Not too much.

不要太多。

But it's super tasty.

但它的味道超好。

And you can tell that this was salted.

而且你可以看出，這是被醃製的。

And then the seasoning on top

然後在上面加點調味料

is really what I prefer.

才是我真正喜歡的。

I could pop these in like popcorn.

我可以把這些東西像爆米花一樣放進去。

Have to come back to Door County

一定要回門縣

to try out these curds.

來嘗試這些凝乳。

OK, I'm doing it.

好吧，我正在做。

Oh, my God.

哦，我的上帝。

[laughing]

[笑]

We did it!