The city of love.

愛之城。

There's so much romance here you can practically smell it

這裡有太多的浪漫，你幾乎可以聞到它的味道。

and history shows that when fragrance meets France, it's a match made in heaven.

而歷史表明，當香氛遇上法國，這就是天作之合。

I'm in the French capital to learn about the country's passion for perfume

我在法國首都瞭解這個國家對香水的熱情

and have been given rare access behind the scenes

並獲得了難得一見的幕後機會。

of the world's biggest fragrance and flavorings company, Givaudan.

世界上最大的香料和香精公司Givaudan的。

In 2017, the Swiss company dwarfed its competitors with sales worth more than $5 billion.

2017年，這家瑞士公司以超過50億美元的銷售額讓競爭對手相形見絀。

This is an industry not to be sniffed at.

這是個不容小覷的行業。

The global fragrance market was valued at more than $50 billion in 2018,

2018年，全球香水市場價值超過500億美元。

and is expected to be worth $72 billion by 2024.

並預計到2024年價值720億美元。

Founded in France more than 250 years ago, Givaudan has evolved over time,

250多年前，吉瓦丹在法國成立，隨著時間的推移，吉瓦丹不斷髮展。

acquiring a number of its competitors, but there are some traditions which have stayed the same.

雖說收購了許多競爭對手，但有些傳統卻沒有改變。

So here, Calice Becker, that's me. So those are the last creations I'm working on.

所以在這裡，Calice Becker，這就是我。所以，這些都是最後的創作 我的工作。

You're working on all of these, right now?

你現在就在研究這些嗎？

Yes.

是的，我知道

Calice Becker is one of Givaudan's master perfumers or noses as they're sometimes called.

Calice Becker是Givaudan的調香大師之一，有時也被稱為 "鼻子"。

She uses her expert sense of smell to create fragrances for some of the world's biggest brands.

她用她專業的嗅覺為一些世界大品牌創作香水。

Everything starts with a purpose. You have to create with purpose.

一切都始於一個目的。你必須帶著目的去創造。

Either you have an idea on your own or you have a brief from a customer.

要麼你自己有想法，要麼你有客戶的簡報。

Briefs can be very different such as a statement, a poem or a mood board.

簡報的形式可以很不一樣，如聲明、詩歌或心情板。

One Japanese brand gave Givaudan's perfumers just a one word brief to work with: black.

有一個日本品牌給Givaudan的調香師的工作要求只有一個字：黑色。

You always have a narrative to start with and our work is really to translate this narrative into a fragrance.

你總是有一個敘事的開始，我們的工作是真正的將這個敘事轉化為一種香味。

If I was a perfume brand I could come to you and say,

如果我是一個香水品牌，我可以來找你，說。

“Okay, I want a perfume that is based around free spirit, that's it.”

"好吧，我想要一款基於自由精神的香水，就是這樣。"

At this stage I will make you some propositions, and I will walk you through.

在這個階段，我會給你做一些命題，我會帶著你去做。

The process of creating a perfume starts with what's known in the industry as a sketch.

創作一款香水的過程是從業內所謂的草圖開始的。

The noses will experiment with different ingredients that not only smell great together,

鼻子們會嘗試不同的食材，不僅一起聞起來很香。

but also follow the brief from the client. They then write the formula.

但也要按照客戶的簡報。他們就會寫出公式。

Those ingredients were sent to my computer. It looks like a recipe.

那些原料都發到我的電腦上了。看起來像個配方。

I have ingredient, quantity, ingredient, quantity and voila it was sent to the lab.

我有原料，有數量，有原料，有數量，就這樣被送到了實驗室。

You can go in the lab and see how it works, and we will be able to smell and evaluate it.

你可以到實驗室去看看它的工作原理，我們就可以聞一聞、評一評。

Am I going to feel the free spirit?

我是不是要感受一下自由的精神？

I hope so.

我希望如此。

Perfume is thousands of years old, but for centuries France has been the

香水有幾千年的歷史，但幾個世紀以來，法國一直是世界上最大的香水生產國。

European epicenter of the fragrance industry. So how did that happen?

歐洲香水業的中心。那麼，這是怎麼發生的呢？

But before I learn more about the history of perfume, my nose is being put to the test.

但在我瞭解更多關於香水的歷史之前，我的鼻子正在接受考驗。

We have eight different flowers and eight scents. You have to smell them and match with the flowers.

我們有八種不同的花，八種香味。你要聞到它們的氣味，並與花相配。

Oh God. This is quite tricky, isn't it?

哦，上帝啊這是相當棘手的，不是嗎？

Maybe lemon, number six. Jasmine.

也許是檸檬，六號。茉莉花

There you go. How did I do?

你去那裡。我做得怎麼樣？

Let me see.

讓我看看

Only two.

只有兩個。

Two right?

兩個吧？

It's alright.

沒事的

Okay. So maybe I'm not quite a master perfumer, but when did smelling flowers become so important?

好吧，也許我不是個香水大師，但什麼時候聞花香變得這麼重要了？

We can see the cabinet de curiosite.

我們可以看到內閣德古玩。

Everything here is related to perfume and how we used to make perfume.

這裡的一切都與香水和我們如何使用使香水有關。

This animal is called a civet. It's an African cat. In the past, we could use animal essences.

這種動物叫狸貓。這是一種非洲貓。在過去，我們可以使用動物精華。

So if you wanted to smell like a furry animal, you can.

所以如果你想聞到毛茸茸的動物的味道，你可以。

You can.

你可以。

Perfect.

完美的。

People created this machine to try to extract the essences of plants.

人們創造了這種機器，試圖提取植物的精華。

It looks like something out of a hairdressers.

它看起來像一個理髮店的東西。

You can see people picking flowers in Grasse in the 30s. The 30s was the golden age of the perfume.

30年代的格拉斯，你可以看到人們在採花。30年代是香水的黃金時代。

Grasse is a medieval town in southern Provence known as the perfume capital of the world.

格拉斯是普羅旺斯南部的一箇中世紀小鎮，被稱為世界香水之都。

The climate is perfect for growing rose, jasmine, lavender and many other flowers

這裡的氣候非常適合種植玫瑰、茉莉、薰衣草和許多其他花卉。

that were used to develop natural fragrances and grow the French perfume industry.

用於開發天然香料和發展法國香水業。

Today the fragrant flowers that make perfumes for the world's most biggest brands like Chanel...

如今，為香奈兒等世界大牌製作香水的香花... ...

...and Givenchy...

...和紀梵希... ...。

...are still grown here in France.

...仍然在法國種植。

However to meet increasing international demand, many perfumes are now manufactured

然而，為了滿足日益增長的國際需求，現在許多香水都是在生產

under precise conditions in laboratories in the heart of Paris.

在位於巴黎市中心的實驗室中，在精確的條件下。

So the formula was received by Assia, and it will be sent right away to the robot.

所以配方被阿西亞收到了，馬上就會發給機器人。

In a couple of minutes it will get out.

幾分鐘後就會出來。

Is that our one down there?

那是我們下面的那個嗎？

It's there. It's going through the different heads.

它的存在。它正在通過不同的頭。

So this is why it works so well for such a big company

所以這也是為什麼這麼大的公司能有這麼好的效果。

because you can send these recipes all around the world.

因為你可以把這些菜單送到世界各地。

Exactly. For instance, if you develop a fragrance with me, but your market is Japan

沒錯，就是這樣比如說，你和我一起開發一款香水，但你的市場是日本。

we will deliver that straight in Japan, compounded there under the same exact conditions.

我們會直接在日本交貨，在同樣的條件下，在那裡複合。

How are you trying to incorporate technology into the company?

你是如何嘗試將技術融入公司的？

It's a bit of art, it's a lot of science. I don't think one will replace the other one.

這是一點藝術，這是一個很大的科學。我不認為一個會取代另一個。

We actually are investing into digital technologies to make better fragrances and flavors

我們其實是在投資數字技術，以製造更好的香料和香精。

not necessarily replacing our magic noses with artificial intelligence

不一定要用人工智能來代替我們的魔鼻

but for sure the combination of both I think will be for the better.

但肯定兩者的結合我認為會更好。

I've created 3,000 different types of fragrances, 300 went on the market

我創造了3000種不同類型的香水，有300種上市了。

and 30 are currently on the market, on the premium market.

和30目前在市場上，在高級市場上。

But I don't think it's important to know who is behind the fragrances.

但我不認為知道誰是背後的香料很重要。

Now it's time to test my fragrance with an evaluator who will determine

現在是時候用評估師來測試我的香水了，他將會決定。

if 'Free Spirit' is ready to go on the market.

如果'自由精神'準備上市。

The freshness, we have a very fizzy citrus, sparkling citrus on top.

清新的感覺，我們有一個很有活力的柑橘，閃閃發光的柑橘在上面。

Here we really capture the fruity and fleshy part.

在這裡，我們真正抓住了果香和肉香的部分。

Mmm, I like it a lot.

嗯，我很喜歡它。

Is that free spirited enough?

夠自由自在嗎？

I think so.

我想是的

Hi guys, thanks very much for watching our video. To see more of our content then check out these.

大家好，非常感謝大家觀看我們的視頻。想看我們更多的內容，那就看看這些吧。

And we'd love to know your thoughts on perfume. Do you wear it? Do you spend a lot of money on it?

我們很想知道你對香水的看法。你會用它嗎？你花了很多錢在上面嗎？

Comment below the video to let us know and don't forget to subscribe.

在視頻下方評論讓我們知道，別忘了訂閱。