the most misunderstood foods in the world,

世界上最被誤解的食物。

and fermented shark is probably on it.

和發酵的鯊魚可能就。

But here in the west of Iceland,

但在冰島西部這裡。

it is a regional delicacy.

它是一種地方性的美食。

It's Greenland shark

是格陵蘭鯊魚

that's been laboriously fermented, dried, and cured.

經過辛苦的發酵、乾燥和醃製。

And it's been done by one family in this area

而在這一帶，有一戶人家已經做到了。

for hundreds of years.

數百年來，。

We're here to find out what it tastes like.

我們來看看它是什麼味道的。

Guðjón Hildibrandsson: The Greenland shark is the most

Guðjón Hildibrandsson: 格陵蘭鯊魚是最有活力的動物

toxic shark in the world.

世界上有毒的鯊魚。

Fresh meat, you will get very sick.

新鮮的肉，你會生病的。

Then a little bit more, you could probably go blind.

那麼多一點，你可能就會瞎了眼。

And then death after that.

而後死亡。

Ju: So what exactly does it take to make it safe to eat?

朱。那麼，到底要怎樣才能讓它吃得安全呢？

We met with Guðjón Hildibrandsson.

我們會見了Guðjón Hildibrandsson。

He's running his family business of shark curing

他現在做的是他的家族生意--醃製鯊魚。

here in Bjarnarhöfn.

在比亞納霍夫特這裡。

Guðjón: I've been eating the shark since before I got teeth.

Guðjón:我從長牙之前就開始吃鯊魚了。

I've been doing the curing process probably since I was 10.

我大概從10歲起就開始做醃製工藝了。

This is just all my life.

這只是我的生活。

Just shark, shark, shark.

只是鯊魚，鯊魚，鯊魚。

We don't catch them ourselves, not anymore.

我們自己不抓他們，不再是了。

Now we buy them from these big trawling boats,

現在我們從這些大的拖網漁船上買。

who catch the shark accidentally.

不小心抓到鯊魚的人。

But my family used to catch them and hunt them.

但我的家人經常抓他們，打他們。

Ju: Guðjón cures about 60 sharks a year.

Ju:Guðjón每年治療大約60個鯊魚。

From fishing to cube, the whole process takes six months.

從捕撈到立方體，整個過程需要半年時間。

The meat is first fermented in cold storage rooms,

肉類先在冷庫中發酵。

like this one.

像這個。

Guðjón: Next, I'm gonna open it up,

Guðjón:接下來，我要打開它。

and you're going to put your head in it.

你要把你的頭放在裡面。

You're gonna inhale.

你要吸氣。

[Ju laughs]

[菊笑]

And then you're gonna explain the smell you feel.

然後你要解釋你感覺到的氣味。

Ju: OK, yeah, yeah, I'm ready.

朱。OK，是啊，是啊，我準備好了。

Guðjón: Shall we check it out? Ju: I'm ready, OK.

Guðjón:我們去看看吧？Ju:我準備好了，好的。

Guðjón: So.

Guðjón：所以。

Ju: Stick my head in? Guðjón: Yeah, here we go.

朱。把我的頭伸進去？Guðjón:是的，在這裡我們去。

Ju: It's, um,

朱。這是，嗯。

I dye my hair, and it's literally like bleach.

我染髮，簡直就像漂白劑一樣。

It's hair bleach. Right.

這是頭髮漂白劑。是的。

Yeah, like hair dye.

是啊，就像染髮劑。

Oh, wow.

哦，哇。

So, oh, I'm sorry, I'm sorry. [laughs]

所以，哦，我很抱歉，我很抱歉。[笑]

Guðjón: It is very strong. Ju: It's really strong.

Guðjón:它很強壯。Ju:真的很強。

Guðjón: Because it's a closed unit.

Guðjón:因為它是一個封閉的組織、部門。

Ju: Do you know what it is?

朱。你知道這是什麼嗎？

It's hair bleach and Stilton.

這是漂白劑和斯蒂爾頓。

Guðjón: We are working with similar bacterias,

Guðjón。我們正在研究類似的細菌。

like when you're doing cheese.

就像你在做奶酪的時候。

Ju: So that's why?

朱。所以這就是為什麼？

Guðjón: Let's check this out.

Guðjón。讓我們來看看這個。

Ju: Oh, you can see the oozing.

朱。哦，你可以看到滲出。

Guðjón: Yeah. Ju: Yeah.

Guðjón:是的。Ju:是啊。

Guðjón: And then you can also - this is like —

Guðjón。然後你還可以... 這就像...

it does not smell as intense as when we walked in.

它不像我們進來時那麼強烈的氣味。

Ju: No.

朱：沒有。

Guðjón: So this can stay here for some while longer.

Guðjón:所以這個可以在這裡多呆一段時間。

So, here we have the thinner pieces.

所以，我們這裡的薄片。

And we make these handles in the skin for grabbing them,

而我們在皮膚上做了這些把手，用來抓住它們。

lifting them up, hanging them up.

把它們提起來，掛起來。

So these are the thinner pieces.

所以這些都是比較薄的部分。

And under here we have the fillet.

而在這裡我們有魚片。

So, this is how that's, that's much, much thicker pieces.

所以，這就是如何的，那是多多厚實的作品。

And he has white meat.

而且他有白肉。

He does not have a fat layer.

他沒有脂肪層。

He has white meat.

他有白肉。

And it's very important to have the skin on,

而且皮膚的保養是非常重要的。

because the meat, it's so loose itself

因為肉，它是如此的鬆散的自己。

that if it's no skin,

那如果它是沒有皮膚。

then the meat just basically stretch.

然後肉就基本伸展了。

The thinner pieces, after the process,

較薄的部分，經過處理後。

the meat becomes sort of red or brown.

肉變得有點紅或棕色。

And we call that glerhákarl.

我們稱它為glerhákarl。

Ju: Glerhákarl. Guðjón: Yeah.

Glerhákarl.Guðjón：是的。

And the meat is, it's more chewy and salty.

而且肉是，比較有嚼勁，比較鹹。

And then we have the fillet. That stays white.

然後我們有魚排。這保持白色。

The fillet we call skyrhákarl.

我們稱它為Skyrhákarl。

It's named after the milk product, skyr.

它的名字來自於奶製品Skyr。

Ju: Oh, yeah, yeah. We love skyr.

朱。哦，是的，是的。我們愛Skyr。

What is the liquid that's coming off, then?

那麼，脫落的液體是什麼呢？

Guðjón: Ammonia.

Guðjón：氨。

Water, there is a lot of water in the meat.

水，肉裡有很多水。

The Greenland shark, he has much more water in him

格陵蘭鯊魚，它的體內有更多的水。

than other fishes, or other sharks.

比其他魚類，或其他鯊魚。

So it's ammonia.

所以是氨。

Ju: What is that doing in the scientific process of it?

朱。在它的科學過程中，這是做什麼？

'Cause it's poisonous when it's fresh?

因為它新鮮的時候是有毒的？

Guðjón: Yeah.

Guðjón：是的。

The Greenland shark is the most toxic shark in the world.

格陵蘭鯊是世界上毒性最強的鯊魚。

And the Greenland shark is a deep-ocean, cold-ocean shark.

而格陵蘭鯊是一種深海、冷海鯊魚。

So Icelanders, they first

所以冰島人，他們首先

started fishing them for the liver.

開始釣他們的肝臟。

And they used the oil from the liver.

而他們用的是肝臟的油。

So for the first 200 years, when they were fishing them,

所以前200年，當他們在釣他們的時候。

they had to throw the meat away. They couldn't use it.

他們不得不把肉扔掉。他們不能使用它。

So there was big waste of meat.

所以肉的浪費很大。

And in Iceland and isolated areas, this was a big waste.

而在冰島和偏遠地區，這是一個很大的浪費。

So 400 years ago, probably accidentally,

所以400年前，可能是意外。

they discovered the process to use the meat.

他們發現了使用肉的過程。

Ju: What would happen if I took a bite of that now?

菊。如果我現在吃了一口會怎麼樣？

What would happen to me? Will I go blind, or...?

我會發生什麼事？我是會失明，還是... ？

Guðjón: Now it's that far in the fermentation

Guðjón:現在已經到了發酵的階段了

that you would be fine.

你會沒事的

But before, fresh meat,

但之前，鮮肉。

something small, you would get very sick.

一些小東西，你會得病的。

Then a little bit more, you could probably go blind.

那麼多一點，你可能就會瞎了眼。

And then death after that.

而後死亡。

Ju: OK, great. [both laugh]

朱。好，好極了。[都笑了]

Great, I will not be taking a bite of that.

很好，我不會吃一口的。

So, this part of the process,

所以，這部分的過程。

is this the most important part

這是最重要的部分

to get the taste of it, or the curing?

來獲取它的味道，還是固化的？

Guðjón: This basically does everything.

Guðjón。這基本上可以做到一切。

It makes the meat not toxic.

使得肉質沒有毒性。

It's preserved.

它的保存。

After this, you can eat it.

之後，你就可以吃了。

It's not toxic.

它沒有毒。

But the drying process is just to get a better texture

但是乾燥過程只是為了獲得更好的質感

in the meat because it's just so wet and moist.

因為它是如此的溼潤和潮溼的肉。

And it's very important that these boxes,

而且這些盒子非常重要。

they have these gaps on them

他們有這些缺口

so the liquid can leak from it.

所以液體可以從裡面漏出來。

And also for oxygen to get in,

也是為了讓氧氣進入。

because the meat, it needs to breathe.

因為肉，它需要呼吸。

There are chemical changes that are happening,

有化學變化正在發生。

that are making the meat untoxic.

這是使肉不毒。

First, people didn't know this was a chemical process.

首先，人們不知道這是一個化學過程。

It was an accident.

這是一個意外。

Now this is a chemical process and we are,

現在這是一個化學過程，我們是。

there are a lot of interesting things

妙趣橫生

that we are even still discovering.

我們甚至還在發現。

It's also different after where the shark has been,

在鯊魚去過的地方之後，也是不一樣的。

and what depth, and what temperature he was caught.

和什麼深度，什麼溫度，他被捕獲。

The different depth and what chemicals are high or low in.

不同的深度，什麼化學物質的含量高低。

So, in these boxes, the meat loses about around 30%.

所以，在這些盒子裡，肉的損耗大約在30%左右。

So it loses a lot of weight here.

所以在這裡損失了很多。

And then in the drying process, it loses, like, 50, 70%.

然後在乾燥過程中，它失去了，像50，70％。

So total use of meat is around 8%.

所以肉類的總用量在8%左右。

Ju: What happens to the ammonia when it drains?

朱。氨氣排出後會怎樣？

I mean, is it, it's OK to be —

我的意思是，它是，它的確定是 -

I mean, you've got, like, I've got boots on,

我的意思是，你已經得到了一樣，我已經得到了靴子上。

and you've got little sandals and socks. [both laugh]

和你有 小涼鞋和襪子。[都笑]

Guðjón: The ammonia is, the liquid here is, that's fine.

Guðjón:氨水是，這裡的液體是，這很好。

We could drink it.

我們可以喝它。

I won't, though, but.

我不會，雖然，但。

[both laugh]

[都笑了]

Ju: I'm pretty sure that's a cure for something.

朱。我敢肯定，這是一個治療的東西。

Guðjón: You want some maybe?

Guðjón:你想來點嗎？

No. Ju: No.

是啊，朱。是啊。

One shark will give from 30 to 40 pieces of fillet.

一條鯊魚可以提供30到40塊魚片。

The meat ferments for six to nine weeks in the wooden boxes,

肉在木箱中發酵6至9周。

then it's hung outside for six months to fully dry out.

然後把它掛在外面半年，讓它完全乾透。

Guðjón: To know if it's ready, we check the texture.

Guðjón:為了知道是否準備好了，我們檢查質地。

And these are all,

而這些都是。

like, good.

喜歡，好。

They are, the texture is fine.

他們是，質地很好。

We don't want it too hard, and not too mushy.

我們不希望它太硬，也不希望太膩。

And then we have this one here.

然後我們有這個在這裡。

This one is not stiff enough.

這個是不夠硬的。

So he needs more time, but these here are ready.

所以他還需要更多的時間，但這裡的這些都已經準備好了。

Here you see the skin.

在這裡你可以看到皮膚。

You should.

你應該。

Ju: Oh, wow.

朱：哦，哇。

It's like, you know when these people have really terrible,

這就像，你知道，當這些人有非常可怕的。

like, 1970s walls, where they, yeah.

像，20世紀70年代的牆壁，在那裡他們，是的。

Guðjón: I know what you mean.

Guðjón:我知道你的意思。

Ju: Yeah, it's like sandpaper.

Ju:是的，它像砂紙。

[both laugh]

[都笑了]

But yeah, this is really rough.

但是，是的，這真的很粗糙。

Guðjón: This was used for, in Iceland,

Guðjón。這是在冰島使用的。

this was used for sandpaper.

這是用來做砂紙的。

And these points, if you look closely,

而這幾點，如果你仔細觀察。

you see the points in the skin.

你看皮膚上的點。

They grow in one direction.

它們朝著一個方向生長。

Do you see that? Ju: Yeah, yeah, yeah.

你看到了嗎？朱。是啊，是啊，是啊。

Guðjón: And so these points, they grow down with his body.

Guðjón:所以這些點，它們會隨著他的身體生長。

So when he swims,

所以當他游泳時。

he gets this sort of thin layer of air around him.

他的周圍有一層薄薄的空氣。

There's always air around him.

他周圍總是有空氣。

So it's easier for him to swim and to get faster.

所以他遊起來比較容易，速度也比較快。

And it also works like, gives him a little bit

而且它也工作一樣，給他一點點

more insulation in a cold ocean.

在冰冷的海洋中，更多的是保溫。

Ju: It's the meatiest fish I've ever seen, yeah.

朱。這是我見過的最肉的魚，是的。

Guðjón: Here we have a piece of the fillet.

Guðjón。我們這裡有一塊魚片。

And in the drying, the piece,

而在晾晒中，這塊。

it gets this dried crust around it.

它得到這個乾燥的外殼周圍。

But you see here, when I slice it open,

但是你看這裡，當我把它切開的時候。

that he still has this beautiful white color at the inside.

他的內心還有這美麗的白色。

And here the meat is ready to eat.

而這裡的肉已經可以吃了。

So there is never nothing added to this meat

所以，這肉裡從來都沒有加什麼東西

in the process. There's no cooking.

在這個過程中。沒有烹飪。

There's no smoking. Like, nothing at all.

這裡沒有吸菸。就像，什麼都沒有。

Just, it's just natural process,

只是，這只是自然過程。

from the beginning till the end.

從頭到尾。

And then, if I...

然後，如果我...

you see how smoothly it cuts.

你看它切得多順暢。

And then you take this here.

然後你拿著這個

Ju: Thank you.

菊。謝謝你。

It looks like ham.

它看起來像火腿。

Guðjón: Yeah.

Guðjón：是的。

And then I'll have one also.

然後我也會有一個。

Ju: Cheers. Guðjón: Skál.

Ju:乾杯。Guðjón: Skál.

Ju: Skál, OK.

Ju:Skál, OK.

Mm.

嗯。

I was gonna say, it actually doesn't,

我本來想說，其實並沒有。

it's, the aftertaste is kicking in now, yeah.

它的，後味是踢現在，是的。

Guðjón: And now you feel it, it's coming up in your nose.

Guðjón:現在你感覺到了，它正從你的鼻子裡冒出來。

Then it's doing what we want it to do.

那麼它就在做我們希望它做的事情。

We want it to give us, like, a kick.

我們希望它能給我們，就像，一腳。

It's supposed to be strong.

它應該是強壯的。

Ju: I can taste the ammonia kind of smell now.

朱。我現在能嚐到氨氣的味道了。

At first it was just like chewing a piece of ham.

剛開始的時候，就像嚼一塊火腿一樣。

And then, like, you know, the texture of it in your mouth.

然後，就像，你知道，它的質地 在你的嘴。

And then the aftertaste.

然後是餘味。

And then it's actually, like, stinging my tongue,

然後它實際上，就像，刺痛了我的舌頭。

stinging the back of my tongue.

刺痛了我的舌尖。

Do you ever get over that?

你有過這樣的經歷嗎？

It's like eating bread to you now?

現在對你來說就像吃麵包一樣？

Guðjón: Everything you feel is probably

Guðjón:你的感覺可能是

10 times more than what I feel.

十倍於我的感覺。

For me, I kind of, I sort of miss it.

對我來說，我有點，我有點想念它。

But I know good shark from a bad one.

但我知道好鯊魚和壞鯊魚的區別。

Two sharks who arrive here together,

兩條鯊魚一起來到這裡。

they go through the process together.

他們一起經歷這個過程。

After the process, they taste similar, but not the same.

經過加工，它們的味道相似，但不一樣。

It is the, not even amount of ammonia maybe in them,

這是，甚至沒有量的氨也許在他們。

or salt, or other chemicals that are different.

或鹽，或其他不同的化學物質。

So that's why they don't taste the same.

所以這就是為什麼他們的味道不一樣的原因。

Ju: Yeah. You can taste the smell of it.

朱。是的，你可以嚐到它的味道。你可以嚐嚐它的味道。

But it's that really kind of, like,

但它是真的那種，喜歡。

rich Stilton cheese,

濃郁的斯蒂爾頓奶酪。

like, hits the back of your tongue.

喜歡，打你的舌頭後面。

And it's just at the sides of your tongue.

而它只是在你的舌頭兩側。

I don't think that's ever gonna go away, maybe, but.

我不認為這是永遠不會消失的，也許，但。

Guðjón: You want some more?

Guðjón:你還要嗎？

Ju: I'll have a little bit more, yeah.

朱。我再吃一點，好的。

Guðjón: You'll have a little bit more.

Guðjón。你會有更多一點。

Ju: I mean, I think that my tongue's just used to this now.

朱。我的意思是，我想我的舌頭的 只是習慣了這一點。

I'm a shark convert.

我是一個鯊魚的轉換。

It's amazing, though, how much of it is in the smell.

不過，很神奇的是，它的味道有多少。