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  • Taryn Varricchio: You might recognize these thin slices

    Taryn Varricchio:你可能會認出這些薄片。

  • of slow-cooked pastrami,

    慢煮的薰牛肉。

  • a whopping three quarters of a pound of them

    足足有四分之三磅重

  • layered onto chewy rye bread.

    鋪在有嚼勁的黑麥麵包上。

  • It's one of the most New York foods you can find,

    這是你能找到的最紐約的食物之一。

  • and it's from none other than Katz's,

    而這正是卡茨的。

  • the city's most famous deli.

    該市最著名的熟食店。

  • Brad Kass: That pastrami is by far the best pastrami

    Brad Kass:那薰牛肉是迄今為止最好的薰牛肉

  • I've ever had in my life.

    我這輩子都沒有過。

  • It really just melts in your mouth.

    真的是入口即化。

  • Taryn: You know the pastrami comes from Katz's

    Taryn:你知道薰牛肉來自Katz's。

  • based on four factors:

    基於四個因素:

  • the cut of meat they use, which gets extra juicy

    鮮嫩多汁

  • and flavorful when it's cooked;

    並且煮熟後味道鮮美。

  • the monthlong curing process that gives the pastrami

    長達一個月的醃製過程,使燻肉

  • its classic pink color;

    其經典的粉紅色。

  • the signature rub, or bark, around the edge

    擦邊球

  • that's made with a blend of spices;

    那是用香料混合而成的。

  • and the extremely skillful way

    和極其熟練的方式

  • they carve it into perfectly thin slices.

    他們把它切成完美的薄片。

  • Jacob Grasso: But I always get their hot pastrami.

    但我總是吃他們的熱薰牛肉。

  • And it's just so, like, juicy,

    而且它只是如此,喜歡,多汁。

  • Liz hates the word juicy, but to describe,

    莉斯討厭多汁這個詞,但要形容。

  • it's, like, good juicy, and with the mustard

    它的一樣,好多汁,和芥末

  • and the rye, it just ties it all together.

    和黑麥,它只是把它聯繫在一起。

  • It's perfect.

    這是完美的。

  • Elizabeth Napolitano: [laughs] Yeah.

    伊麗莎白-納波利塔諾:[笑]是的。

  • Taryn: Katz's is known for having a really long line

    Taryn:Katz's是著名的有一個非常長的線。

  • outside of its doors.

    其門外。

  • So I thought I'd catch up with owner Jake Dell

    所以我想和老闆傑克-戴爾聊一聊。

  • about how he makes some of the best pastrami in the world,

    關於他如何製作世界上最好的薰牛肉。

  • even during a shutdown.

    即使在停產期間。

  • So, can you kinda tell us a little bit

    所以,你能不能跟我們說說?

  • of what you guys are going through right now?

    你們現在正在經歷什麼?

  • The challenges you might be facing, or?

    你可能面臨的挑戰,或?

  • Jake Dell: Yeah, this is definitely a challenge,

    傑克-戴爾是的,這絕對是一個挑戰。

  • doing an interview like this.

    做一個這樣的採訪。

  • A lot of delivery though, which is great,

    不過很多快遞,這很好。

  • and a lot of shipping nationwide.

    而且全國範圍內有很多運輸。

  • A lot of customers getting meats by the pound,

    很多顧客都是按斤數買肉的。

  • soups for their fridge,

    湯為他們的冰箱。

  • really just stocking up.

    真的只是儲備了。

  • Taryn: One of the most popular orders

    Taryn:最受歡迎的訂單之一

  • is this juicy pastrami on rye,

    是這個多汁的薰牛肉在黑麥上。

  • something that takes a month to make,

    要花一個月時間做的東西。

  • starting with the cut of meat.

    從切肉開始。

  • While you can use a few cuts to make pastrami,

    雖然你可以用一些切口來做薰牛肉。

  • Katz's swears by the navel end.

    卡茨的發誓是肚臍端。

  • Jake: We use navel for pastrami. That's very traditional.

    我們用肚臍做薰牛肉.那是很傳統的.

  • And part of what makes the navel so beautiful

    而肚臍眼之所以如此美麗,也是有一部分原因的

  • for this process is that the fat is really

    這個過程中的脂肪是真正的

  • just centralized in the middle of the cut of meat.

    只是集中在切肉的中間。

  • Whereas a brisket can kinda be on the outside,

    而牛腩則可以挺在外面。

  • the navel's really on the inside.

    肚臍眼真的在裡面。

  • So when you're smoking it, you're pulling the fat

    所以當你抽的時候,你就會把脂肪抽出來。

  • from the center out to the edges.

    從中心到邊緣。

  • So you really get all these juices

    所以你真的得到所有這些汁液

  • and flavors flowing throughout, from top to bottom.

    和味道從上到下的整個流程。

  • Taryn: Then comes the curing stage,

    Taryn:然後是固化階段。

  • the longest part of the process,

    流程中最長的部分。

  • which can last between three to four weeks.

    可持續三至四周。

  • Jake: Curing is basically just a salt bath.

    傑克:固化基本上就是鹽浴。

  • It's about taking salt and breaking down

    這就是拿鹽和分解

  • some of the muscle, some of the tissue,

    一些肌肉,一些組織。

  • some of the connective tissue.

    一些結締組織的。

  • Salt is good for preservation

    食鹽有利於保存

  • and good for flavor.

    並對味道有好處。

  • Taryn: Cool. And what type of salt

    Taryn:酷。什麼類型的鹽

  • do you guys use for that process?

    你們用的是什麼工藝?

  • Jake: Pink salts are a type of curing salts

    粉紅鹽是固化鹽的一種。

  • that basically helps give the rose color to the meat.

    這基本上有助於給肉的玫瑰色。

  • Taryn: The next stage is all about intensifying flavor.

    Taryn:下一個階段就是要強化味道。

  • They combine a little bit of salt, pepper,

    他們結合了一點鹽,胡椒粉。

  • garlic, and coriander to make

    蒜和香菜製作

  • the pastrami's signature rub, or bark.

    薰牛肉的標誌性摩擦,或樹皮。

  • Then each piece is smoked anywhere

    然後,每塊都是在任何地方熏製

  • from seven to 72 hours, depending on the size

    從7小時到72小時,取決於大小。

  • and composition of the meat.

    和肉的成分。

  • And how does the smoking affect the flavor

    熏製對味道有什麼影響呢?

  • and the tenderness of the meat?

    和肉的嫩度?

  • What is happening at that stage of the process?

    在這個階段發生了什麼?

  • Jake: I mean, that's,

    我的意思是,那是。

  • when it comes to pastrami, that's everything, right?

    當它涉及到薰牛肉, 這就是一切,對不對?

  • Smoking and rub is so important.

    吸菸和擦拭是如此重要。

  • What you're going to put on the outside there

    你要把什麼放在外面?

  • is going to really soak through.

    是要真正的浸透。

  • That smoking process is gonna get

    吸菸的過程是會得到

  • these flavors to kind of meld together

    這些味道融合在一起

  • and go from top to bottom, side to side, piece to piece.

    並從上到下,從邊到邊,一塊一塊的去做。

  • And so you really get this beautiful infusion of flavor.

    所以你真的得到了這種美麗的味道的注入。

  • Taryn: The cooking process finishes off with

    Taryn: 烹調過程的最後是用

  • steaming the pastrami until it's extremely soft.

    將薰牛肉蒸至極度柔軟。

  • So soft that the workers behind the counter

    軟得讓櫃檯後的工人

  • are considered masters at slicing it.

    被認為是切磋的高手。

  • Jake: It's very bizarre to feel the meat be that soft.

    傑克:感覺到肉是那樣的軟,非常奇怪。

  • So, if we tried to put it on the slicer,

    所以,如果我們試圖把它放在切片機上。

  • it would just crumble right through.

    它只是崩潰的權利通過。

  • Forget it.

    算了吧

  • There's no chance that's gonna happen.

    這是不可能的事

  • That's why a lot of places don't cook it this long,

    所以很多地方都不會煮這麼久。

  • because it's a huge hassle and a huge headache.

    因為這是一個巨大的麻煩和巨大的頭疼。

  • And it takes a tremendous amount of knife skills

    而這需要大量的刀法。

  • and years of experience and practice

    以及多年的經驗和實踐

  • to really know what you're doing with that piece of meat

    真正知道你在用那塊肉做什麼。

  • that can just turn into dust if you're not careful.

    如果你不小心的話,就會變成灰塵。

  • Brad: It kind of has that same texture as, like,

    布拉德:它的質地有點像,像。

  • really good Texas barbecue, where you, like,

    真正好的德州烤肉,在那裡,你,喜歡。

  • it comes off the bone and melts in your mouth.

    它從骨頭上脫落,在你的嘴裡融化。

  • It has that exact same concept.

    它有著完全相同的概念。

  • Taryn: By the end of the month, Katz's pastrami

    Taryn:到了月底,Katz的薰牛肉

  • is ready to be sandwiched between

    準備好夾在

  • two slices of rye bread with deli mustard.

    兩片黑麥麵包配熟食芥末。

  • Since shutting down dine-in service,

    自從關閉了堂食服務。

  • not as many customers are lining up outside of Katz's,

    沒有那麼多顧客在Katz的外面排隊。

  • but many are still ordering pickup and delivery.

    但很多人還是訂購了自提和送貨。

  • Brad: When I got it a week ago it was still warm,

    布拉德:當我一週前拿到它的時候,它還是暖的。

  • everything was exactly how I wanted it.

    一切都是我想要的。

  • Actually, I got coleslaw on my sandwich,

    事實上,我的三明治上有捲心菜。

  • and they put it on the side, which I think is a genius move,

    他們把它放在旁邊, 我認為這是一個天才的舉動。

  • so that it doesn't make the bread soggy, so.

    以免讓麵包變溼,所以。

  • It was still just as incredible

    還是那麼不可思議

  • taking it home and getting it delivery.

    把它帶回家,讓它送貨。

  • Taryn: Fortunately, the deli isn't worried about

    Taryn:幸運的是,熟食店並不擔心。

  • running out of pastrami, since Jake says

    薰牛肉用完了,因為傑克說

  • he can adjust how long he cures the meat.

    他可以調整他醃製肉的時間。

  • Jake: Right, if business gets too slow

    對,如果生意太慢

  • you can kind of increase the length of pickling.

    你可以種增加醃製的長度。

  • If it goes really fast, you can decrease.

    如果速度真的很快,你可以減少。

  • So there's a, it provides a great cushion.

    所以有一個,它提供了一個很好的緩衝。

  • Taryn: But we know the future isn't for certain,

    Taryn:但我們知道未來並不確定。

  • so Jake says he's taking business day by day.

    所以Jake說他每天都在處理生意。

  • For now, the deli remains open,

    目前,這家熟食店仍在營業。

  • as it has through recessions, depressions,

    因為它經歷了經濟衰退、蕭條。

  • and other crises over the last 100 years.

    和過去100年的其他危機。

  • Zach Edwards: Everyone would be a little hurt

    扎克-愛德華茲。每個人都會有點受傷

  • if Katz's closed, even for the time being,

    如果卡茨的關閉,即使是暫時的。

  • 'cause it's such a New York City establishment.

    因為它是這樣的紐約市建立。

  • It boosts the morale of everyone in New York City,

    它能提高紐約市每個人的士氣。

  • having those major landmarks stay open.

    讓那些主要的地標性建築保持開放。

  • You know, it shows that New York City is strong,

    你知道,這說明紐約市很強大。

  • New City is always strong.

    新城永遠是強者。

  • Jake: If you would've asked me this five months ago

    如果你五個月前問我這個問題的話

  • in the middle of the holiday rush,

    在節日的高峰期。

  • "What do you think your Passover's gonna look like?"

    "你覺得你的逾越節會是什麼樣子?"

  • This is not quite how I envisioned it.

    這不是我所設想的那樣。

  • I don't think any of us did.

    我不認為我們任何人都這樣做。

  • So the most we can do is

    所以我們能做的最多就是

  • to focus on the meat right in front of us.

    以專注於眼前的肉。

Taryn Varricchio: You might recognize these thin slices

Taryn Varricchio:你可能會認出這些薄片。

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卡茨的黑麥香腸是紐約最具傳奇色彩的香腸|傳奇吃法 (Katz's Makes New York's Most Legendary Pastrami On Rye | Legendary Eats)

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    林宜悉 發佈於 2020 年 11 月 03 日
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