is unchanging someone into another person.

是將一個人不變為另一個人。

Anyone can point out what's wrong with it

有誰能指出其中的問題嗎？

without knowing what's wrong with it.

而不知道它的問題所在。

So that's the tough part.

所以這才是最難的部分。

[instrumental music]

[器樂]

My name is Kazu Hiro, I am prosthetic designer.

我叫和廣，是一名假肢設計師。

If an actor wants to change their look

如果一個演員想改變自己的形象

to portray a character more than like a beauty makeup can do

塑造一個人物形象比像一個美女化妝能做的更多。

that's when I will come into the set.

這時我會進入集。

I started as a special effects makeup artist.

我是從特效化妝師開始的。

In the 2012 I got sick of the film industry

在2012年，我厭倦了電影行業。

and I left the film industry and started to fine art.

我離開了電影業，開始從事美術創作。

Then I came back to the film industry again.

後來我又回到了電影行業。

When I was in high school I contacted Dick Smith,

當我上高中的時候，我聯繫了迪克-史密斯。

who is the Amadeus and godfather,

誰是阿瑪迪斯和教父。

I learned from him

我跟他學的

and I started in Japan, I worked with Akira Kurosawa.

我從日本開始，和黑澤明一起工作。

I didn't like the situation in Japan

我不喜歡日本的情況

because they don't have enough time and budget,

因為他們沒有足夠的時間和預算。

so I decided to move to United States.

所以我決定搬到美國去。

I worked on "Men In Black", "Grinch", "Click", "Norbit".

我參與了 "黑衣人"、"鬼靈精"、"咔嚓"、"Norbit"。

I was nominated for the Oscar

我被提名為奧斯卡獎得主

and recently I worked on "Darkest Hour" and "Bombshell"

最近我還參與了 "最黑暗的時刻 "和 "炸彈 "的拍攝。

and I got Oscar for both movies.

我的兩部電影都得了奧斯卡獎。

To do a character makeup I will need to know anatomy

要做一個人物化妝，我需要知道解剖學的知識

and also the makeup technique and the sculpting,

還有化妝技術和雕琢。

and also hair work.

以及發工作。

I started to use a computer and also photographing.

我開始使用電腦，也開始拍攝。

These in the computer technology is so advanced.

這些在計算機技術如此發達。

We can combine prosthetic makeup with a computer,

我們可以將假體化妝與電腦相結合。

and we can do something that we couldn't do

我們可以做一些我們不能做的事情。

in like 10 years ago.

在像10年前。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]

Right after I finished "Mindhunter",

就在我看完 "獵心人 "之後。

Charlize contacted me about the project,

Charlize跟我聯繫了這個項目。

because Charlize was the producer of "Mindhunter" too.

因為查理茲也是《心靈獵人》的製片人。

Charlize convinced me to be on set every day

佘詩曼說服我每天都去拍戲

because it was really tricky makeup

因為它是真正的棘手的化妝

because especially like applying eyelids,

因為特別喜歡貼眼皮。

such a delicate area moving all the time

牽一髮而動全身

and such a delicate thin skin

纖細的皮膚

and if it's applied the wrong way

如果用錯了方法

it will affect the next stage.

會影響下一階段的工作。

So Megyn Kelly has a heavier eyelid compared to Charlize,

所以梅根-凱利的眼皮比查理茲重。

so I had to change the eyelids on Charlize

所以我不得不給查理茲換了雙眼皮。

and also nostril size.

還有鼻孔大小。

Megyn Kelly has a bigger nostril.

梅根-凱利的鼻孔更大。

The first thing I did was

我做的第一件事是

took an impression of inside of her nostril,

在她的鼻孔裡留下了一個印象。

that form I scanned it and put in a computer program

我把那張表掃描了，然後放進了電腦程序裡

and I made this nose plug

我做了這個鼻塞

So on set I can put this,

所以在片場我可以把這個。

you can see like a one side is bigger

你可以看到像一邊大

because I put on this side.

因為我把在這邊。

This is a head cast of Charlize,

這是查理茲的頭像。

I can use the same color clay and build the form onto it.

我可以用同樣顏色的泥土，把形體建在上面。

We take an impression of the actor's face with a silicone

我們用硅膠對演員的臉部進行印記。

and then silicone is a fixable material.

然後硅膠是一種可固定的材料。

We put the plaster bandage on top of it

我們把石膏繃帶貼在它的上面

to reinforce the flexibility.

以加強靈活性。

During that time actor will be breathing

在這段時間裡，演員會呼吸

only through their nostril.

只有通過他們的鼻孔。

The whole process will take about 25 minutes.

整個過程大約需要25分鐘。

And then in that impression mode,

然後在這種印象模式下。

we pour resin and make a mold of it,

我們倒入樹脂，並將其製成模具。

and in that mold we pour plaster and make this copy.

在這個模具裡，我們澆上石膏，做這個副本。

This is a printout of Charlize's face.

這是打印出來的查理茲的臉。

When we do a physical lifecast the way of the material,

當我們做物理命題的方式的材料。

pull down the face a little bit

斂容

because this face is so soft,

因為這張臉太軟了。

and if we put the heavy stuff on it,

而如果我們把重物放在上面。

it would distort the face.

會使臉部變形。

And the great thing about the skin

而皮膚的好處是

it will that nothing touches it.

它將沒有任何東西觸及它。

So that's why we can make eye open or with expression.

所以，這就是為什麼我們可以讓眼睛睜開或帶表情。

And then from that data, we print this out.

然後從這些數據中，我們打印出這個。

When they act, they really have to believe in the

當他們行動的時候，他們真的要相信。

how capable they are and what they can do.

他們的能力有多大，他們能做什麼。

Megyn Kelly is really famous.

梅根-凱利真的很出名。

And Charlize is also very famous

而查理茲也是非常有名的

and the audience knows what they look like.

而觀眾也知道他們的樣子。

It was very important to convince audience

說服觀眾是非常重要的

and also help Charlize

也幫助查理茲

to be really immerse into the character

融入角色

and portray Megyn Kelly.

並描繪梅根-凱利。

Charlize's makeup took like a two hours and half.

查理茲的化妝花了兩個半小時。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]

Roger has like a bull dog-ish cheek and a big neck,

羅傑有像牛狗一樣的臉頰和大脖子。

we kind of concluded it will be like a hybrid

我們得出的結論是，它將像一個混合體。

not exactly like a Roger

不太像

because you know, that a great actor

因為你知道，一個偉大的演員

when you shoot a close-up

拍攝特寫時

they do a lots of subtle movement around the eyes.

他們在眼睛周圍做了很多細微的動作。

I didn't want to cover that things.

我不想掩蓋這些事情。

And what I did was I change the hairline,

而我所做的就是我改變了髮際線。

Roger's hairline was much farther back,

羅傑的髮際線更靠後了。

and more like allowing the forehead.

而更像是讓額。

John's hairline is almost at triangle.

約翰的髮際線幾乎是三角形的。

We shaved the hairline to mimic Roger's hairline.

我們把髮際線剃掉，模仿羅傑的髮際線。

I gave him a nose and cheek piece in the neck,

我在脖子上給了他一塊鼻子和臉頰。

and earlobes

耳垂

because Roger had really big earlobes.

因為羅傑的耳垂真的很大

John didn't believe in prosthetic makeup,

約翰不相信假肢化妝。

he had a bad experiences in the past.

他過去有不好的經歷。

When we had a meeting first time he brought a plumper

我們第一次見面的時候，他帶了一個水管工來

the kind of device put in the mouth

嘴裡的那種東西

to make his cheek bigger.

讓他的臉頰變大。

The issue with a plumper is always look like a actor

塑身師的問題是總是看起來像個演員。

has a plumper because there's a distance here.

有一個豐滿的人，因為這裡有一個距離。

And he said, "This might work, I used it on the crunch.

他說："這個可能有用，我用在緊縮上。

[laughs]

[笑]

Okay, well, I told him, "No, let me do."

好吧，好吧，我告訴他，"不，讓我做。"

He was really sceptical.

他真的很懷疑。

As soon as I put the nose on him,

我把鼻子一貼他。

he looked at in the mirror, and he started to say,

他看著鏡子裡的人，他開始說。

"Wow, that's amazing."

"哇，太神奇了。"

"I'm done here," and I told him that I'm not done yet.

"我這裡已經結束了。"我告訴他，我還沒有結束。

And he was really into it after that test makeup.

而他在那次試妝後，真的很投入。

Into john is a little over two hours.

進入約翰是兩個多小時。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]

Nicole Kidman who was portraying Gretchen Carlson

妮可-基德曼飾演的格雷琴-卡爾森

Jay told me that

阿杰告訴我

she doesn't have to be exactly like Gretchen,

她不一定非要像Gretchen一樣

but to just give a sense in like essence of it.

但只是給人一種感覺，在喜歡它的本質。

Originally I sculpted with a nose and chin in the cheeks

原本我雕塑的是臉頰上的鼻子和下巴。

because Gretchen has a rounder face,

因為Gretchen的臉比較圓。

but Nicole requested to get rid of that.

但妮可要求把它弄掉。

So we end up putting a nose and the chin, that was it.

所以我們最後把鼻子和下巴，就是這樣。

Nicole was about two hours.

妮可大約兩個小時。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]

I think it was 2015 Gary Oldman emailed me,

我想是2015年加里-奧德曼給我發了郵件。

he really wanted me to work on this film,

他真的希望我在這部電影上工作。

and he told me that if I cannot work on,

他告訴我，如果我不能在工作。

he won't take the job.

他不會接受這份工作。

He had big cheek pieces, the nose tip and chin and the neck

他的腮幫子很大，鼻尖和下巴，脖子也很大

and we shaved his head

我們給他剃了光頭

because I had the discussion with Gary,

因為我和Gary討論過了。

"Do you want to shave it and to make the makeup time shorter

"你要不要把它刮掉，讓化妝的時間更短？

"or you want to sit longer?"

"或者你想坐久一點？"

And so his answer was, "Okay, let's shave it."

所以他的回答是，"好吧，我們把它剃了吧。"

There is a lifecast.

有一個人生觀。

This is Gary,

我是Gary

Gary Oldman.

加里-奧德曼

Most of the time, it's impossible to make

大多數時候，它不可能使

one person look exactly like the other person,

一個人長得和另一個人一模一樣。

because the proportion of the face

因為面的比例

or proportional of the face is different.

或面的比例不同。

When I sculpt a face on a lifecast,

當我在人生的舞臺上雕刻一張臉的時候。

it's very important to know how the actor move their face

掌握演員的動作很重要。

and we also have to know where to end sculpture.

而我們也要知道在哪裡結束雕塑。

Basically this is a silicone has a skin on top of it.

基本上這就是一個硅膠上面有一層皮。

We would apply this with a medical adhesive

我們會用醫用膠粘劑塗抹

and we will melt the edge.

我們將融化邊緣。

We call this part as the flashing.

我們把這部分稱為閃光。

Then we start to paint the skin tone on top of it,

然後我們開始在上面畫膚色。

sometimes blend into actor's skin or change the whole color.

有時會與演員的皮膚融為一體或改變整個顏色。

Human skin tone it's changing all the time.

人的膚色它一直在變化。

If they are sitting on a chair, they are not moving at all

如果他們坐在椅子上，他們就不動了

skin tend to be pale.

皮膚往往是蒼白的。

And then once they stand up and start to walk

然後一旦他們站起身來開始走路

bad saturation start to happen

飽和度下降

so skin tone get warmer.

所以膚色變暖。

We have to kind of compensate that change

我們必須補償這種變化

so there won't be a too much of a difference.

所以不會有太大的區別。

It took I think it was like, less than three hours.

花了我認為是像，不到三個小時。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]

"Mindhunter" was it came to me

"心靈獵手 "是我想到的。

right after I finished "Darkest Hour".

就在我完成 "最黑暗的時刻 "之後。

Actor for Charles Manson was Damon Herriman

查爾斯-曼森的演員是達蒙-赫裡曼。

and he was Charles Manson in

他是查爾斯-曼森在

"Once Upon A Time In Hollywood."

"Once Upon A Time In Hollywood."

He had a great face for that character,

他的臉很適合那個角色。

but the big difference was eyelids.

但最大的不同是眼皮。

Charles Manson has a more like a deep socket guys.

查爾斯-曼森有一個更像一個深插口的傢伙。

He had a whole beard and long hair.

他留著整齊的鬍鬚和長髮。

I gave him eyebrow cover

我給他蓋了眉毛

because I had to change the shape of his eyebrow.

因為我必須改變他的眉毛形狀。

At first I made eyelid piece

起初我做的是眼皮片

kind of bringing the eyelid into his eye socket,

樣把眼皮帶進他的眼眶。

but he felt that is kind of uncomfortable.

但他覺得那是一種不舒服。

So at the end, what I did was I glued his eyelid up,

所以在最後，我做的是我把他的眼皮粘起來。

and put the forehead piece on top of it.

並把額頭的那塊放在上面。

We created the hairpiece and cut the hairline off

我們製作了這個髮飾，並剪掉了髮際線。

from a lace piece.

從花邊片。

But the problem is those lace piece

但問題是那些蕾絲片

once glued on the skin it's kind of toughen up the skin.

一旦粘在皮膚上，就會使皮膚變硬。

So when actor smile or change the expression

所以當演員微笑或改變表情時

it buckles up and make a wrinkles.

它扣起來，使皺紋。

What we do is cut the hairline off from hairpiece,

我們要做的是把髮際線從髮飾上剪掉。

and lay a single hair on hairline with a glue.

並將一根頭髮用膠水鋪在髮際線上。

It took about three hours.

花了大約三個小時。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]

David Berkowitz, Oliver Cooper was actor.

David Berkowitz, Oliver Cooper是演員。

I was asked to be a part of the casting

我被要求參與選角工作

and pick the right face.

並選對了臉。

That was a little tricky

那是一個有點棘手的問題

because David Berkowitz has really interesting face.

因為David Berkowitz的臉非常有趣。

Oliver's face he had eyebrow cover

奧利弗的臉，他有眉毛遮住了

because David Berkowitz has a unibrow

因為David Berkowitz有一條眉毛

and the nose and upper lip and lower lip,

以及鼻子和上脣、下脣。

chin or cheek and the neck.

下巴或臉頰和脖子。

He also had a bodysuits.

他也有一件塑身衣。

David Berkowitz was kind of stocky

David Berkowitz是個胖子

like almost like a football player-ish body shape.

像幾乎像足球運動員一樣的體型。

So we have to change the whole shoulder too.

所以我們也要改變整個肩膀。

Close to four hours.

接近四個小時。

And the getting Oscar is it will put the seal on you

而獲得奧斯卡獎就等於給你蓋章了

that okay Oscar this guy

好吧，奧斯卡這傢伙

so it will be all good.

所以這將是所有的好。

So that was great.

所以，這是偉大的。

After the like an old project came to me

在喜歡一個老項目後，我來到了

was the projects I wanted to work on.

是我想做的項目。

[gentle music]

[輕柔的音樂]