dipped into a cup of piping hot consomé.

蘸上一杯熱騰騰的清湯。

If you're not paying attention,

如果你不注意。

you could walk by some of the

你可以走過一些

best tacos in New York City.

在紐約市最好的玉米餅。

Customer: I've had tacos all over the world,

顧客。我在世界各地都吃過玉米餅。

and this is probably one of the best I've ever ate.

這可能是我吃過的最好的東西之一。

I have to stop here every day after work.

我每天下班後都要到這裡來。

[laughing]

[笑]

Lisa: Queens has some of the most diverse food

麗莎皇后區有一些最多樣化的食物

in the continental US,

在美國大陸。

and one of the buzziest new spots here

以及這裡最熱鬧的新景點之一。

is this unassuming taco truck.

就是這輛不起眼的塔可車。

Now, I love very little in this life

現在，我這輩子愛的東西不多

more than a good taco, and these tacos,

比一個好的塔克，和這些塔克。

these specific kinds of tacos

這些特定種類的玉米餅

have been taking over my Instagram feed,

已經佔據了我的Instagram飼料。

they've been taking over LA,

他們已經接管了洛杉磯。

they have finally hit New York,

他們終於打到了紐約。

and I cannot wait to get my hands on them,

我已經迫不及待地想要得到它們了。

so let's go check it out.

所以，讓我們去檢查出來。

Food truck Birria-Landia

食品卡車Birria-Landia

opened in the fall of 2019,

於2019年秋季開張。

and it didn't take long for

沒過多久

New Yorkers to take note.

紐約人要注意了。

It even received a two-star review from

它甚至獲得了來自

The New York Times, which rarely covers food trucks.

紐約時報》，很少報道餐車。

Brothers José and Jesús Moreno

José和Jesús Moreno兄弟

run the whole operation,

運行整個操作。

with José taking the day shift to prep and cook

與何塞採取日班準備和烹飪

and Jesús staying until the early morning hours

和Jesús一直呆到凌晨。

to serve hungry night owls.

為飢餓的夜貓子服務。

There are only four items on the menu,

菜單上只有四樣東西。

tacos, tostadas, mulitas, and consomé,

玉米餅，tostadas，mulitas，和consommé。

and each is stuffed with this:

而每個人都被這個塞滿了。

a spicy beef stew called birria,

燉牛肉的辣味，叫birria。

which has its roots in Mexico but has, in recent years,

該公司起源於墨西哥，但近年來，。

dominated the Los Angeles food scene.

主導了洛杉磯的美食界。

José Moreno: I went to California,

何塞-莫雷諾。我去了加州。

and these tacos of birria

和這些玉米餅的Birria

are so popular over there in LA.

在洛杉磯那邊很受歡迎。

I get back to New York,

我回到紐約。

I feel like I miss them.

我覺得我很想念他們。

The only way, if I want to eat tacos of birria again,

唯一的辦法，如果我想再吃比利亞的玉米餅。

is if I make them. Nobody sell over here this way.

是如果我做他們。沒有人在這裡賣這種方式。

Lisa: The birria begins here,

麗莎：Birria從這裡開始。

in a shared kitchen space where various

在一個共享的廚房空間裡，各種

New York City food trucks prep for service.

紐約市的餐車為服務做準備。

Three times a week,

一週三次。

José fills these four massive pots

何塞把這四個小耳朵裝滿

with the ingredients needed to make

配上製作所需的材料

enough fresh birria to feed an army.

足夠養活一支軍隊的新鮮比利亞。

José: I'm using all my experience of 20 years

何塞：我用的是我20年的經驗

to put in this taco birria. We make with love.

放在這個塔克比利亞。我們用愛做的。

Like, we take the time to pour the salt

就像，我們花時間去倒鹽一樣

piece by piece. Then you let it rest,

一塊一塊的。然後你讓它休息。

that meat can absorb the salt,

肉可以吸收鹽分。

and then it's much better.

然後就會好很多。

Lisa: In its birthplace of Jalisco, Mexico,

麗莎：在其發源地墨西哥哈利斯科州。

traditional birria is made with lamb or goat.

傳統的birria是用羊肉或山羊製作的。

But because it's a bit more accessible,

但因為它更容易上手。

Birria-Landia's take starts with

Birria-Landia的觀點從以下幾點開始

100 pounds of beef, cut into large chunks

100磅牛肉，切成大塊。

and seasoned generously with salt and pepper.

並加入大量的鹽和胡椒粉調味。

To each pot, José adds a blend of spices,

每一鍋，何塞都會加入混合的香料。

all of which he measures not-so-precisely

所有這些他都不太準確地測量了。

with a serving spoon.

用餐勺。

Paprika, bay leaves, oregano, cumin,

辣椒粉，月桂葉，牛至，小茴香。

cinnamon, cloves, salt, and pepper.

肉桂、丁香、鹽和胡椒粉。

He blends together chipotle peppers

他把辣椒混合在一起

and fresh onions, boiled guajillo peppers,

和新鮮洋蔥，煮熟的瓜希洛辣椒。

and garlic — like, a lot of garlic —

和大蒜 - 喜歡，很多大蒜 -

to give this dish its signature depth and spice.

賦予這道菜標誌性的深度和香料。

The blender is tiny, so it takes a lot of batches

攪拌器很小，所以需要大量的批次

to pump out enough puree to flavor all this birria.

抽出足夠的果泥來調味所有這些貝利亞。

The birria is left to marinate

醃製好的白樺樹被留在這裡

for about four hours, then separated.

四小時左右，然後分開。

The beef from the stew is chopped up

燉好的牛肉切成碎末。

and used in the tacos, mulitas, and tostadas,

並用於玉米餅，mulitas，和tostadas。

and the broth is saved to make

而湯汁則被保存下來，用於製作

a hearty cup of soup called consomé.

一杯豐盛的湯，叫做 "湯"。

Then it's all packed up and loaded onto the truck.

然後全部打包，裝到卡車上。

Birria-Landia parks in the same spot

Birria-Landia公園在同一地點。

starting at 5 p.m. every day,

每天下午5點開始。

on Roosevelt Avenue in Jackson Heights, Queens,

在皇后區傑克遜高地的羅斯福大道上。

right under the elevated tracks of the 7 train.

就在7號列車的高架軌道下。

The perfect spot for hungry commuters and pedestrians.

餓上班族和行人的最佳地點。

José: People from everywhere are eating my tacos,

何塞。人們從各地都在吃我的玉米餅。

and that make me so happy.

這讓我很高興。

We are in the right moment. Right now,

我們正處於正確的時刻。就是現在

it's tacos fever, all New York.

它的玉米餅熱，所有的紐約。

Lisa: Once parked, the real work begins.

麗莎：停好車後，真正的工作就開始了。

These tacos are all about flavor,

這些玉米餅都是關於味道。

so it's no wonder the tortillas

難怪玉米餅子

are dipped in the residual fat from the consomé.

蘸著清湯的殘餘脂肪。

Not only does this add flavor

這不僅可以增加風味

and the signature bright red color,

和標誌性的鮮紅色。

but it also saves some money

但也節省了一些費用

because there's no reason to buy frying oil.

因為沒有理由去買煎炸油。

They're topped with the beef from the birria stew,

上面放了燉白菜的牛肉。

of course, then onion and fresh cilantro.

當然，然後洋蔥和新鮮香菜。

Customer: I usually don't like tacos in New York City

顧客：我通常不喜歡紐約市的墨西哥捲餅。

because of the tortilla, because it's pretty bland,

因為玉米餅，因為它很平淡。

and these are very good.

而這些都是非常好的。

Lisa: Was it worth coming out here

麗莎：值得來這裡嗎？

on this cold, cold day to eat a taco?

在這個寒冷的日子裡，吃一個玉米卷？

Customer: We live right around here,

顧客。我們就住在這附近。

so it's just a walk for us.

所以，它只是一個步行為我們。

Lisa: Oh, so you're cheating. [laughs] OK.

麗莎：哦，所以你在作弊。[笑]OK。

And according to chef José,

而據主廚何塞說。

if you don't get a cup of consomé to dip your tacos in,

如果你沒有得到一個杯子的consomé 蘸你的玉米餅。

you're doing it all wrong.

你這樣做是錯誤的。

José: We are right now the classic taco de birria.

何塞。我們現在是經典的taco de birria。

This is the classic. It's the meat,

這是經典之作。這是肉。

onion, cilantro, and sauce.

洋蔥、香菜和醬料。

This is the magic.

這就是魔力。

This is the magic, it's true.

這就是魔法，這是真的。

You eat the taco and the consomé in one bite.

你一口氣吃了塔可和清湯。

So, I mean, this is genius.

所以，我的意思是，這是天才。

Lisa: On a day like today, when it is

麗莎：在今天這樣的日子裡，當它是。

25 degrees outside,

外面25度。

this is the best thing

這是最好的事情

I could have thought to have eaten.

我可以想到吃了。

You can tell with the meat

你看這肉就知道了

that you really took the time to season it.

你真的花了時間來調味。

And it's spicy, but it's not overwhelmingly spicy.

而且很辣，但並不是很辣。

José: Yeah, it's....

何塞：是的，這是....。

Lisa: It's built for all different kinds of palates.

麗莎：它是為各種不同的味覺打造的。

And the tortilla.

還有玉米餅。

It's, like, crispy, but it's soft.

酥酥的，但很軟。

José: Exactly. You have both texture when you eat it.

José:沒錯，你吃的時候有兩種口感。你吃的時候，兩種口感都有。

Lisa: Yeah. I could eat 12 of these.

是的，我可以吃12個。

[laughing]

[笑]

José: A lot of people, they just dip the taco,

José:很多人， 他們只是蘸玉米餅。

eat, then finish, and they left the consomé.

吃，然後完成，他們離開了consomé。

Lisa: That's a crime. The consomé is the best part.

麗莎：那是一種犯罪。涼拌是最棒的部分。

Next time I have a cold,

下次我感冒了。

will you bring this to my house?

你能把這個送到我家嗎？

[laughing]

[笑]

José: Of course, yeah.

José:當然，是的。

Lisa: This is very special.

麗莎：這很特別。

José: Thank you so much. Lisa: Cheers.

José:非常感謝你。麗莎：乾杯。

Both: Cheers.

兩人：乾杯。

José: One day one lady, this is true, it's true,

何塞。有一天，一位女士，這是真的，這是真的。

one lady tell me, "Can I have one of these to go

有位女士告訴我，"我可以拿一個這樣的東西去。

for my boyfriend?"

給我男朋友的？"

I say, "Yeah." She say, "Two."

我說，"是啊。"她說，"兩個。"

I say, "Oh, you have two boyfriends?"

我說，"哦，你有兩個男朋友？"

[laughing]

[笑]