Name: Skara Wood的人偶妝和創意美世界 - VOGUE JAPAN| 極致美麗｜VOGUE JAPAN (スカラ・ウッドのお人形メイクと独創的な美の世界。| Extreme Beauty | VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2020-10-19T20:45:28.000Z
Duration: 11 min 43 s

This is a hoarders guide to Glasgow with me.

這是和我一起去格拉斯哥的囤積者指南。

So let's get our hands dirty Today we're going to be doing kind of hyper rail, supernatural big eyes, big lips, big nose, big everything kind of look.

所以讓我們動手吧 今天我們要做的是那種超軌道，超自然的大眼睛，大嘴脣，大鼻子，大一切的樣子。

First step is we need to call my hair out of the way, so don't do that.

第一步是我們需要把我的頭髮叫出來，所以不要這樣做。

I like to try and make myself kind of looked like a dull, like one of those creepy porcelain ones that kind of like rounding out of the face of the bigger the things around you are, the smaller you look like wearing oversized clothes makes your body look smaller and, like having big eyes makes your head look smaller to play with this sort of idea of feminine and petite and baby like So I'm going to start by cleaning my face on.

我喜歡嘗試讓自己看起來像個呆板的人，就像那些令人毛骨悚然的瓷器一樣，那種像圓潤的臉，周圍的東西越大，你看起來就越小，就像穿著大號的衣服，讓你的身體看起來更小，就像有一雙大眼睛，讓你的頭看起來更小，以玩弄這種女性化的想法，嬌小的和嬰兒一樣，所以我要從清潔我的臉開始。

Then we're gonna put on some foundation, really love that.

然後我們要打上一些基礎，真的很喜歡。

Like it runs in my family to get an insanely red face.

就像我的家族一樣，讓我的臉瘋狂的紅。

I think I was always, like, artistic or like just read us like queer.

我想我總是，喜歡，藝術或喜歡只是讀我們像同志。

It was really funny because I went thio on all boys school because its Northern Ireland they didn't really think they needed to have a rule about like, makeup because it was like no one would have wanted to wear it Anyway.

這真的很有趣，因為我去了Thio的所有男孩的學校，因為它的北愛爾蘭，他們真的不認為他們需要有一個規則一樣，化妝，因為它像沒有人會想穿它，反正。

I would like put like a full face of, like, white foundation on and then use a makeup wiped to just rub like the dark bags under my eyes so that I looked like as unhealthy as possible.

我想把像滿臉的，像，白色的粉底上，然後用化妝棉只是擦像黑眼袋，這樣我看起來像儘可能不健康。

I did have like friends whenever I was a teenager, but I think I struggled to find like people who were interested in the same things as I was for the most part.

每當我十幾歲的時候，我確實有喜歡的朋友，但我想我很難找到和我一樣感興趣的喜歡的人，大部分都是這樣。

So I spent a lot of time on the Internet.

It's really like part of the sort of queer millennial experience Thio find your like sense of like identity and belonging online.

這真的很像那種千禧年的同志經驗的一部分Thio找到你喜歡的感覺喜歡的身份和歸屬在線。

So next I'm going to start mapping onto my face where I want to do features later.

所以接下來我要開始映射到我的臉上，我以後要做特徵的地方。

I guess I started experimenting with like drag whenever I moved to art school.

我想每當我搬到藝校的時候，我就開始嘗試像拖。

I think a lot of it was because I studied fashion and textiles, which I kind of always thought that was what I wanted to do with my life in my career.

我想很大程度上是因為我學的是時尚和紡織專業，我一直以為這就是我一生的職業目標。

I didn't really enjoy it like I didn't particularly enjoy suing that much.

我並不是很喜歡，就像我不是特別喜歡告狀一樣。

I was in it because I wanted to make, like, haphazardly constructed garments for myself and not have to really worry about, like the industry or like being sellable.

我之所以加入，是因為我想為自己做一些，比如，胡亂構造的服裝，而不必真的擔心，比如行業或比如被賣掉。

So then I started playing with makeup more and, like actually wearing makeup to look like a different person, as opposed to a dead person with big eyebrows on.

所以後來我開始更多的玩起了化妝，比如真正的化妝，讓自己看起來像個不同的人，而不是一個死人，戴著大眉毛。

I needed like a that drag performance sort of offered that.

我需要像一個拖動性能排序提供。

But yeah, like I much kind of prefer just putting on makeup and maybe performing a sad song to a quiet remove like five people.

但是，是的，就像我更喜歡只是化妝，也許表演一首悲傷的歌曲，像五個人一樣安靜的刪除。

It was like five years ago I was diagnosed with borderline personality disorder on a big part of that.

這就像五年前我被診斷為邊緣型人格障礙的一大半。

For me, it was sort of like a disrupted sense of identity on, like, not really knowing who I waas and feeling like I didn't really exist, and it was kind of like a weird time mentally.

對我來說，這有點像一個混亂的身份感， 喜歡，不知道我是誰WAS，感覺像我沒有真正的存在， 這是一種像一個奇怪的時間精神。

I sort of find that a lot of that was related to, like my love of historical stuff in historical costumes because, in contrast to the present moment where, like everything is changing around you and like you have to deal with being like an ever changing person.

我發現這其中有很多是和我對歷史服裝的熱愛有關的，比如說我對歷史的東西的熱愛，因為，和當下相比，比如說你周圍的一切都在變化，比如說你必須要面對像一個不斷變化的人。

But I love like history because it's already happened.

但我喜歡喜歡歷史，因為它已經發生了。

Historical, aesthetic, sort of function for me for a while, as like a stand in for a solid sense of like who I actually was like identity wise.

歷史的，審美的，某種功能對我來說有一段時間，作為像一個站在一個堅實的感覺，像我實際上是誰像身份明智的。

I got diagnosed around the same time as I came out as trans person as well, which is are really fun.

我被診斷為周圍的同一時間，因為我出來作為跨人，這是真的很有趣。

Couple months I identify as a trans woman, but also as gender nonconforming.

幾個月來，我認定自己是個變性女人，但也是性別不符合的。

I think like understandably, a lot of people find that confusing.

我覺得像可以理解，很多人覺得很困惑。

They sort of think like, How can you be trans Andi gender nonconforming?

他們有點想，你怎麼能是跨性別的安迪性別不符合？

If you're transgender, you're conforming to a gender.

如果你是變性人，你就是在順應一個性別。

But really mostly what I mean by that is that like I'm Trans because I identify something that I wasn't assigned at birth.

但其實主要是我的意思是，就像我是Trans，因為我認定了一些出生時沒有分配到的東西。

But I don't necessarily see that as a reason why I should have to behave a certain way just the act of, like, not medically transitioning or not feeling the need to pass as assist Woman is an active like gender, non conformity.

但我不一定認為這是一個原因，為什麼我應該有一定的行為方式只是行為，如，不醫學過渡或不覺得有必要通過作為協助女人是一個積極的像性別，非符合。

So next step we'll go in and draw in the water line the waterline.

那麼下一步我們就進去把水線水線畫進去。

Usually what I do nae is what kind of start to do like a shadowy shading thing just around the whole I e make this stupid face like it allows you to stretch out.

通常我所做的nae是什麼樣的開始做像一個陰暗的陰影的東西只是圍繞著整個我e使這個愚蠢的臉像它允許你伸展。

It was built over a Siris of really unfortunate makeup.

它是建立在一個Siris的真正不幸的化妝。

That was close swatches, I guess not only the makeup, but also the way that I dress whenever I'm like, doing these looks and stuff is to kind of self infantilized.

那是近似的色板，我想不僅是妝容，還有我的穿衣方式，每當我喜歡，做這些造型什麼的都是要一種自我幼稚。

I think there's like, I'm uncomfortable with the sexualization off my body because to be sexual is to be gendered a lot of the time.

我認為有喜歡，我不舒服 與性化關閉我的身體，因為要性 是被性別化的很多時候。

I think I think like the kind of de sexualized like baby doll is born out of that need to be like, No, I'm just like a baby.

我想我覺得像那種去性化的像娃娃一樣的娃娃是源於這種需要，不，我只是像一個嬰兒。

I never got a girlhood the first time, Ryan.

我從來沒有得到一個女孩的第一次，瑞恩。

So I'm gonna dress like a toddler in my mid twenties, so I think we're getting somewhere.

所以我在二十多歲的時候會穿得像個小孩一樣 所以我想我們會有進展的。

Um, no, I'm probably going to go in with a darker color just to really emphasize this like depth.

嗯，不，我可能會去用一個更深的顏色 只是為了真正強調這個喜歡的深度。

Okay, um, now let's crack into these Brize.

好了，嗯，現在讓我們來看看這些布里茲。

I shaved my eyebrows off because, like, obviously, it provides more sort of room to play with whenever you're doing, make up like this and it's a lot less preparation time.

我把眉毛剃掉了，因為，很明顯，它提供了更多的空間來發揮，每當你在做，像這樣的化妝，它的準備時間少了很多。

Plus, in my eyebrows were just like, not a very nice ship.

另外，在我的眉宇間就像，不是很好的船。

Now we're going to just line the eye with black on, then maybe start drawing on some lashes, so I usually do like a full set.

現在我們要用黑色在眼睛上劃線，然後也許開始畫上一些睫毛，所以我通常會畫全套的睫毛。

And then I used to just not wear any lashes on top of these.

然後我以前只是在這些上面不戴任何睫毛。

But sometimes if I'm feeling fancy, I'll put a pair.

但有時如果我覺得花哨，我會放一雙。

We're gonna draw ourselves a new lip ship.

我們要給自己畫一艘新的脣船。

Sometimes you just catch, like site of yourself doing this like, uh, eso I'm just gonna use what was left of that color that I mixed up on my hand and add in a little bit of like a darker Brian on.

有時候，你只是抓住，就像你自己的網站這樣做，呃，埃索我只是要使用什麼是剩下的顏色，我混合了我的手，並添加在一點點像一個黑暗的布萊恩上。

Final step for the lips is the highlights.

Do them as if they're like catching the like those ridges that you naturally have on your lips.

做他們，就像他們就像抓住像那些脊，你自然有你的嘴脣。

Okay, now that we look suitably in sin, let's do the nose as well.

好了，現在我們看合適的罪惡，讓我們把鼻子也做了。

It's the only thing that seems to be missing here, right?

We want to take my reasonably pointy nose on, make it kind of like a little bit more like round.

我們要把我合理的尖鼻子上，讓它有點像圓的。

So today I think we'll go for maybe, like a nice bluey greeny Teeley eye color.

所以，今天我想我們會去也許，像一個漂亮的藍綠色的Teeley眼睛的顏色。

There are some moments in this where I just kind of like what I e don't know.

有些時候，我只是有點喜歡我不知道的東西。

I feel like I'm always very reluctant to, like call myself a performance artist because there is that part of me that is like, Who do you think you are like you're just putting makeup on on like dancing in front of people like you're not an artist.

我覺得我總是很不情願，喜歡稱自己為一個行為藝術家，因為有我的那部分是這樣的，你認為你是誰，就像你只是把化妝上像跳舞的人面前，像你不是一個藝術家。

That's just something you need to draw a night on, like not pay attention.

這只是你需要畫一個晚上的東西，比如不注意。

Thio e No, I was saying earlier, like the importance of being self aware and not getting too ahead of yourself, but also like also, you need to know what you deserve on, like you need to know that like, yeah, it's like just because you're, like, scared of getting laughed at for, like, taking yourself too seriously.

Thio e 不，我剛才說的是，像自我意識的重要性 並沒有得到太過超前的自己，但也像也，你需要知道 你值得上，像你需要知道，像，是的，這就像 只是因為你一樣，害怕被嘲笑的， 像，把自己太嚴重。

If you feel it, if you genuinely feel entitled Thio, You know the world would really benefit from me doing this.

如果你感覺到了，如果你真的覺得自己有資格Thio，你知道這個世界會因為我這樣做而真正受益。

I would really benefit from doing this then.

But like I go to exhibitions all the time where people have been paid so much money and given so much space to exhibit like the same thing over and over again, they're not saying anything.

但就像我經常去看展覽一樣，人們得到了那麼多的錢，給了那麼多的空間，讓他們不斷地展出同樣的東西，他們什麼都不說。

So if you've got something to say, we should have a place to say it.

所以，如果你有話要說，我們應該有地方說。

I'm not just going to do all the highlights on the eyes.

我不會只在眼睛上做所有的高光。

So highlights in the iris do the star shape that I'm going to do on the people.

所以高光在虹膜上做星形，我要在人身上做。

So that is our nice, subtle I highlight Finished.

所以，這就是我們的好，微妙的我強調整理。

I think the next logical step would be to put in my contact lenses, Um, which is a bit of a messy process.

我想下一步合乎邏輯的是戴上隱形眼鏡，嗯，這是一個有點混亂的過程。

So I'm going to do it off camera because I'm a very refined young woman.

所以我打算不拍了，因為我是一個很精緻的年輕女人。

Should we do bottom lashes first, let's try our best match it up.

要不要先做下睫毛，讓我們盡力搭配一下。

Uh, let's go find the perfect outfit to complement this stunning makeup.

呃，讓我們去找一套完美的衣服來配合這個迷人的妝容。

I think it's going to transition me really smoothly from day to night.

我想它會讓我從白天到晚上的過渡非常順利。