I shouldn't say that (laughs) oh my god.

我不應該這麼說（笑）哦，我的天。

People are gonna be like I'm not going to her, she's judgy.

人們會說我不會去找她的，她很挑剔。

- [Woman] No!

- [女人]不！

(percussive music)

(敲擊樂)

Hi guys, my name is Dr. Cindy Bae,

大家好，我叫裴嬋娟醫生。

I'ma board-certified dermatologist

我是經過認證的皮膚科醫生。

at the Laser and Skin Surgery Center of New York.

在紐約的脈衝光和皮膚外科中心。

I also teach residents at NYU Department of Dermatology.

我還在紐約大學皮膚科教授住院醫師。

There's so many podcasts, websites, blogs

有這麼多的播客、網站、博客。

about skincare, everyone's an expert nowadays,

關於護膚，現在人人都是專家。

so I'm here to give the official rule.

所以我在這裡給官方規則。

(percussive music)

(敲擊樂)

So I do recommend a cleansing method to my patients,

所以，我是建議患者採用清潔法。

especially at bedtime, because throughout the day,

尤其是在睡前，因為在一天中。

you've been exposed to pollution, debris, oils,

你已經暴露在汙染，碎片，油類。

your sunscreen, everything that's built up

你的防晒霜，所有的東西，建立了

so absolutely you need to remove all of that.

所以，絕對你需要刪除所有這些。

So if you need to use a makeup cloth, use it.

所以如果你需要用化妝布，就用它。

If you need to use an oil balm, use it,

如果你需要用油膏，就用油膏。

and then follow it up with a cleanser and then

然後用潔面乳跟進，然後是

if you need an astringent or a toner to remove

如果你需要用收斂劑或爽膚水來去除。

any further residue, use that, and then moisturize.

任何進一步的殘留，使用，然後保溼。

And if you wanna get fancy and add extra steps,

如果你想花樣百出，增加額外的步驟。

you can add a serum, an ampule, a booster,

你可以加入血清、安瓿、增效劑。

there's so many things you can add to your skincare regimen.

有這麼多的東西，你可以添加到你的護膚方案。

So Hannah Y comments, "my dermatologist said

所以，Y漢娜評論說："我的皮膚科醫生說

"to never use scrubs," and someone commented,

"要永遠不用洗刷器"，有人評論道。

"not harsh ones like sugar, salt, nut shells, et cetera,

"而不是像糖、鹽、堅果殼等刺激性的東西，

"but gentle scrubs."

"但輕輕地擦洗。"

So there's truth to both points.

所以兩點都有道理。

You wanna be very gentle with your skin,

你要非常溫柔地對待你的皮膚。

because if you are harsh, you can cause micro-tears

因為如果你苛刻的話，你可能會造成微裂縫。

and irritation in your skin, so you wanna be gentle

刺激你的皮膚，所以你要溫柔點。

and if you want that exfoliation from a scrub,

如果你想從磨砂膏中去除角質。

you can also use chemical ones too.

你也可以用化學的。

There are many different products with acids in them

有很多不同的產品含有酸

that help remove debris and sticky skin

有助於去除碎屑和粘性皮膚

so that you get a nice exfoliant experience.

以便讓你獲得不錯的去角質體驗。

All right, so Kat F asks "your face feels tight,

好吧，所以Kat F問 "你的臉感覺很緊"。

"the product is too harsh for you, what?

"產品對你來說太苛刻了，什麼？

"Like every product I've ever used has done that

"就像我用過的每一款產品都有這樣的效果一樣

"for me and I thought it's normal

"對我來說，我認為這是正常的。

"and you just moisturize well after, dang."

"你只是保溼後，當。"

So Kat F is actually correct.

所以，吉F其實是正確的。

If your face feels too tight, it is probably

如果你的臉感覺太緊了，那可能是

a little too harsh for you and let's go back

對你來說有點太苛刻了，讓我們回去吧

to the science behind that.

到背後的科學。

That just means that your soap that you're using

這只是意味著，你的肥皂，你使用的

is alkaline, so your pH is a little bit higher.

是鹼性的，所以你的pH值要高一點。

Our skin is a little bit acidic at a pH

我們的皮膚是有點酸性的，pH值為

of about 5.4, 5.5, so when you use an alkaline product,

的5.4、5.5左右，所以當你使用鹼性產品。

your face can feel tight and dry and that actually

你的臉會感到緊繃和乾燥，實際上

affects the skin barrier, so it is probably

會影響皮膚屏障，所以可能是

too harsh for you.

對你來說太苛刻了。

So Kat F, great point.

所以Kat F，很有道理。

Okay, so Brisel Cabrera comments "micellar water and toner

好吧，所以Brisel Cabrera評論說 "雲母水和爽膚水"。

"are not in any shape, way, or form the same thing.

"在任何形狀、方式或形式上都不是同一事物。

"Micellar water is stripping everything

"微氣泡水正在剝離一切

"away from your skin and is taking away

"從你的皮膚，並正在採取

"your natural oils and is actually

"你的天然油，實際上是

"throwing off your pH balance.

"扔掉你的pH值平衡。

"Toner restores your pH balance.

"爽膚水 "能讓你的酸鹼度恢復平衡。

"If you're going to use micellar water,

"如果你要用硅藻水。

"make sure to use a toner after it."

"用完後一定要用爽身粉"。

So there's some good information, some incorrect information

所以有一些好的資訊，有一些不正確的資訊。

and some confusing information in this comment.

和一些混亂的資訊，在這個評論。

So historically the reason why we use toners

所以從歷史上看，我們之所以要使用爽身粉

is because a lot of people use soaps,

是因為很多人都在用香皂。

alkaline soaps that were harsh and they left residues

鹼性的肥皂，是刺眼的，他們留下的殘留物。

and that's why we followed up that cleansing with a toner.

這就是為什麼我們用爽膚水進行清潔的原因。

So nowadays we're much more sophisticated

所以現在的我們更加成熟

in our formulations, and so we don't really need

在我們的配方中，所以我們並不真的需要

a toner for that purpose, and you can see

的碳粉，你可以看到。

that toners come in a variety of formulations,

爽膚水有多種配方。

ones to hydrate and ones to actually remove

補水的和實際去除的

the extra debris, so micellar water is actually,

多餘的雜物，所以膠質水其實是。

it's just soap dispensed in a water solution

滴水之恩當湧泉相報

that's gentle enough to remove stubborn makeup

溫和到可以卸除頑固的化妝品。

and oil-based sunscreens, stuff like that on your face.

和油性防晒霜之類的東西在臉上。

So yes, micellar water and toner are not the same thing

所以，是的，硅藻水和碳粉不是一回事

but toner also comes in a variety of forms

但碳粉也有多種形式。

so you can't, it's like comparing apples and oranges.

所以你不能，這就像比較蘋果和橙子。

They're not the same, but micellar water

它們是不一樣的，但膠質水。

won't really strip everything, it will just help

不會真正的剝離一切，它只是會幫助

remove stubborn things like waterproof mascara

去除防水睫毛膏等頑疾

in a gentle manner.

以溫和的方式。

Sophie Kilmer comments "never use a scrub

蘇菲-基爾默評論說："永遠不要使用擦洗劑。

"next to your eyes, Christ."

"在你眼前，基督。"

So (laughs) you have to be gentle 'cause the skin

所以（笑）你要溫柔點，因為皮膚上的...

around your eyes is much thinner than the rest

你的眼睛周圍比其他地方要薄得多

of your skin and body.

的皮膚和身體。

I don't think you need to absolutely completely avoid it

我覺得你不需要絕對完全避開它。

as long as you're gentle with it.

只要你溫柔的對待它。

(percussive music)

(敲擊樂)

So serums actually help deliver nutrients

所以精華液其實是幫助輸送營養的

or active ingredients to the skin.

或活性成分的皮膚。

It's very concentrated so you don't need that much

它的濃度很高，所以你不需要那麼多。

and you'll see that they're sold in smaller bottles.

你會發現它們都是小瓶裝的。

There are so many products out there on the market,

市場上有這麼多產品。

serums, boosters, ampules, and basically

血清、助推劑、安瓿，以及基本的。

their function is to deliver nutrients to your skin

它們的功能是為你的皮膚輸送營養物質。

or active ingredients like antioxidants

或抗氧化劑等活性成分

and phytonutrients and vitamins,

和植物營養素和維生素。

so that's what you can use to you know,

所以，這是你可以使用的，你知道。

add oomph to your skincare routine.

為您的護膚程序增添活力。

Cubicle comments "he has sensitive skin prone to redness

立方評論 "他的皮膚很敏感，容易發紅"。

"and he used a serum full of fragrance,

"而且他用的是滿是香味的精華液。

"phyto-corrective gel, L-ohh-L."

"植物矯正凝膠，L -OHH -L。"

If you have sensitive skin, you shouldn't use

如果你是敏感肌膚，你不應該使用

a bunch of products or you should really look

一堆產品，或者你真的應該看看

at the ingredients and see if there's

在成分，看看是否有

a common denominator of a certain ingredient

共同點

that makes you sensitive and avoid it.

讓你敏感，避免它。

Fragrance is added to some skincare products

一些護膚品中添加了香料。

just to mask some unpleasant smells from the formulation,

只是為了掩蓋配方中一些難聞的氣味。

but it's also added to make it seem very fancy and nice,

但也是為了讓它看起來很花哨很好看而加的。

so that you'll use it.

這樣你就會使用它。

Sometimes you can actually react to fragrances,

有時候，你真的會對香水產生反應。

especially if you have sensitive skin,

特別是如果你是敏感肌膚。

so if you are one of those people who have sensitive skin,

所以如果你是那些皮膚敏感的人。

make sure you look at products and look for

確保你看產品，尋找

hypoallergenic or fragrance-free.

低過敏性或無香料。

Oh my gosh (laughs) Jackson Stacy,

哦，我的天哪（笑）傑克遜-史黛西。

wow, you're observant: "anyone notice she didn't

哇，你的觀察力。"有人注意到她沒有

"put a moisturizer on after the HA serum?"

"用完HA精華液後，再塗上保溼霜？"

So what, what if she didn't need it?

那又怎樣，如果她不需要呢？

What if she's in some humid environment

如果她在一些潮溼的環境中呢？

where it's full of moisture?

其中充滿了水分?

You don't know, you don't always have

你不知道，你不一定有。

to use a moisturizer, especially if you have

使用保溼霜，特別是如果你有

oily-prone skin or if you just use an HA serum

油性皮膚或只使用HA精華液的情況下

that helps moisturize.

有助於保溼。

You know hyaluronic acid is a moisturizer,

你知道玻尿酸是一種保溼劑。

so don't judge.

所以不要判斷。

(percussive music)

(敲擊樂)

Common actives, so active ingredients like retinoids,

常見的活性物質，所以活性成分如視黃醇。

vitamin C, anything that we know has an effect on the skin.

維生素C，凡是我們知道對皮膚有影響的東西。

There's cosmoceuticals and drugs and the difference

有cosmoceuticals和drug的區別。

between that is that cosmoceuticals are like

之間的是，cosmoceuticals就像。

adorning the skin, but drugs actually affect

裝飾皮膚，但藥物實際上影響了

the structure and function of skin.

皮膚的結構和功能；

So sometimes that line can be blurred too.

所以有時候這條線也會很模糊。

Gymnasmic says "so uh, why do no celebrities

Gymnasmic說："所以，呃，為什麼沒有名流？

"use Tretinoin, when it's literally the only substance

"使用Tretinoin，當它的字面上唯一的物質，

"on earth that the FDA has confirmed

"在地球上，FDA已經確認

"is effective for anti-aging?"

"對抗衰老有效嗎？"

I think some celebrities are in the know with skincare

我覺得有些明星是懂得護膚的

and probably do use Tretinoin, because a lot of them

可能會使用Tretinoin，因為他們中的許多人

do see a board-certified dermatologist,

看一個董事會認證的皮膚科醫生。

but you do make a good point, a lot of,

但你說的不錯，很多。

many people should be on a retinoid unless you're pregnant

很多人都應該服用視黃醇，除非你懷孕了。

or breastfeeding, it's actually really good for the skin.

或哺乳期，其實對皮膚真的很好。

It treats acne, prevents acne, prevents fine lines,

治療痤瘡，預防粉刺，預防細紋。

helps with the appearance of your pores,

有助於你的毛孔的外觀。

so it's wonderful, so if you're not using it, use it.

所以它很奇妙，所以如果你不用它，就用它。

A retinol is just vitamin A, so there's all

視黃醇就是維生素A，所以有所有的

these different derivatives and ultimately

這些不同的衍生物，最終

the main ingredient that's active in our skin

在我們的皮膚上活躍的主要成分。

is retinoic acid, and so Tretinoin is a type

是視黃酸，是以，視黃素是一種類型的

of retinoic acid or retinoid which mimics

視黃酸或模擬視黃酸的視黃酸。

vitamin A activity, and there's actually one

維生素A的活性，其實還有一個。

that's over the counter that used to be prescription.

這是在櫃檯，曾經是處方。

I do not get a kickback from this, but it's Differin Gel

我並沒有從中得到回扣，但它是Differin Gel。

and it's only $12.99, the biggest beauty bargain.

而它只需12.99美元，是最大的美容便宜貨。

So Nina El comments, "there's a lot of people

所以妮娜-艾爾評論說："有很多人

"who are in their 50s and 60s now

"現在已經五六十歲了

"who have been using retin-A since their teens.

"從十幾歲起就開始使用視黃素A的人"。

"Keeps 80% of wrinkles at bay

"保持80％的皺紋在海灣地區。

but sagging happens regardless."

但無論如何都會發生下垂。"

So, you're sort of right, yep.

所以，你是對的，是的。

It does help with wrinkles, I don't know where you got

它確實有助於消除皺紋，我不知道你從哪裡得到的。

the 80% but that's very supportive

八成，但這是非常支持的。

of using retinoids, which I applaud.

的使用視黃醇，我很讚賞。

But sagging does happen because there's gravity,

但因為有重力，所以確實會下垂。

time, things like that that make things naturally fall.

時間，這樣的事情，讓事情自然而然的落下。

Retinoids have been around since probably the 1980s

視黃醇大概從20世紀80年代就開始出現了。

because that's when isotretinoin, otherwise known

因為那是當異維A酸，也就是所謂的

as Accutane, was FDA-approved for the use of acne.

作為Accutane，被FDA準許用於治療痤瘡。

So Shormee Sohani says "I thought we should not

所以肖爾米-蘇哈尼說："我想我們不應該。

"use retinol and vitamin C together."

"視黃醇和維生素C一起使用。"

So it depends, it all depends on formulation,

所以要看，這都要看配方。

the stability of these active ingredients,

這些活性成分的穩定性。

sometimes when you add ingredients together

有時加料

that are active, it can cause irritation or dryness

活性的，它可能會引起刺激或乾燥。

to your skin, so you just have to try.

對你的皮膚來說，所以你只需要嘗試。

Basically the reason why we say not to mix

基本上，我們之所以說不要混用

a lot of things together is because one,

很多事情在一起就是因為一。

we don't want them to cancel out or two,

我們不希望他們取消或兩個。

we don't want your skin to be irritated.

我們不希望你的皮膚受到刺激。

Barking Spider comments, "if you're going to use a retinol,

吠蜘蛛評論道："如果你要用視黃醇。

"don't wash your face with SA, salicylic acid, prior.

"之前不要用SA、水楊酸洗臉。

"Very surprised that wasn't mentioned by her."

"非常驚訝，她沒有提到這一點。"

I wanna ask Barking Spider why he thinks that,

我想問一下 "蜘蛛叫 "為什麼這麼想。

or she thinks that.

或她認為。

I don't think it really matters to that degree.

我認為這並不重要，到了這個程度。

We know salicylic acid, it frosts when we use it

我們知道水楊酸，用了就會結霜。

as a peel, it's very quick in its action,

作為果皮，它的作用非常快。

so maybe you're commenting on that you don't want

所以，也許你的評論上，你不希望

your skin to be irritated because both are being used,

你的皮膚會受到刺激，因為兩者都在使用。

but if your skin's used to it, which it can get

但如果你的皮膚已經習慣了它，它可以得到

a tolerance to some products, it should be okay.

對一些產品的容忍度，應該是可以的。

(percussive music)

(敲擊樂)

Moisturizing is important because we want

保溼很重要，因為我們要

to prevent water loss in our skin,

以防止我們皮膚的水分流失。

so we call that transepidermal water loss

所以我們稱之為經表皮失水

and so when we lose too much water, our skin gets dry,

所以當我們失去太多水分時，皮膚就會變得乾燥。

irritated, we lose our barrier that protects us

刺激，我們失去了保護我們的屏障。

from bacteria, microorganisms, things like that,

從細菌、微生物之類的東西。

so we wanna maintain a good moisture barrier.

所以我們要保持良好的溼度屏障。

Itzel Lopez says "basically coconut oil

伊澤爾-洛佩茲說："基本上是椰子油。

"is working as a moisturizer."

"是作為一個保溼劑。"

Great, if it works for you, keep using it.

很好，如果對你有用，就繼續用吧。

There's different types of moisturizers.

保溼劑有不同的類型。

There's oils like petroleum jelly,

有油像凡士林。

there's vegetable oils, there's oils like coconut oil

有植物油，有像椰子油這樣的油品

in that category, there's waxes like beeswax,

在這一類中，還有蜜蠟等蠟。

dimethicone like silicones, so if coconut oil

像硅酮一樣的二甲基硅氧烷，所以如果椰油

is working for Itzel Lopez, rock on.

正在為Itzel Lopez工作，搖滾。

The comment is "does anyone know of an eye cream

評論對象是 "有誰知道一款眼霜？

"that actually brightens up the darkness under your eyes?"

"這實際上照亮了你眼下的黑暗？"

Eye creams are great in that they moisturize your skin.

眼霜的好處是可以滋潤皮膚。

I don't think that there's a magic wand eye cream out there

我不認為有魔法棒眼霜的存在。

otherwise there wouldn't be so many different types

否則，就不會有這麼多不同的類型了

of eye creams and different types of procedures

的眼霜和不同類型的程序

to treat problems like darkness under your eyes.

對待問題就像對待眼下的黑暗一樣。

So the darkness under your eyes can be caused

所以，你的眼睛下面的黑暗可能是由於

by so many different things.

由這麼多不同的東西。

One, you could have a loss of volume of soft tissue,

一、你可能會有軟組織的體積損失。

of bone, or you can have blood vessels underneath

骨頭的，或者你可以有血管在下面

'cause the skin is thin so it's not very good

因為皮膚很薄，所以不是很好。

at camouflaging the blood vessels,

在偽裝血管。

so it's multifactorial, or it could be pigment.

所以是多因素的，也可能是色素。

You can maybe have some melasma there or some sun damage

你可能會有一些黃褐斑或者是一些陽光的傷害

so it really depends.

所以，這真的取決於。

There's no eye cream that fixes everything,