maybe five or six years ago

五六年前

when I started to feel like my eyebrows were insufficient.

當我開始覺得自己的眉毛不夠用的時候。

So I went out and I bought an eyebrow pencil,

於是我出去買了一支眉筆。

and then this happened.

然後發生了這樣的事情。

All agreeing to scan millions of pages from books...

所有同意掃描數百萬頁的書籍... ...

Oh, my God.

哦，我的上帝。

...related to biodiversity.

.與生物多樣性有關。

I guess I did it wrong.

我想我做錯了。

So I watch these beauty vlogs, and almost without fail,

所以我看這些美妝vlog，幾乎無一例外。

all of these beautiful women with gorgeous,

所有這些美麗的女人與華麗。

flawless skin would mention the same thing.

無瑕的皮膚也會提到同樣的事情。

And finally I just cracked.

最後，我只是破解。

I was like, what is a retinoid and where can I buy one?

我當時就想，什麼是視黃素，哪裡可以買到？

So I have very minimal beauty routine, I think.

所以我想，我的美容程序非常少。

I mean, okay, I do go get my eyelashes done

我的意思是，好吧，我去得到我的眼睫毛做的

and I get the Botox and I get waxed.

我得到的肉毒桿菌和我得到的蠟。

You're right, there are maintenance--

你是對的，有維修...

there are maintenance things.

有維護的事情。

How many times have I gone into work

我有多少次去工作

and people are like, "Emma, you look really tired today."

人們都喜歡，"艾瑪，你今天看起來很累。"

I'm just like, well, I guess I didn't put on enough concealer,

我只是喜歡，好吧，我想我沒有把足夠的遮瑕膏。

and that's frustrating.

而這是令人沮喪的。

I feel like the only reason I care about the way I look

我覺得我關心我的外表是唯一的原因。

is 'cause I want to impress.

是因為我想給人留下深刻印象

Honestly-- like, being honest about it,

老實說... ... 喜歡，是誠實的。

it's 'cause I want to impress on social media.

這是因為我想在社交媒體上留下深刻印象。

Cleo: Over the past few years, research shows

克萊奧 在過去幾年裡，研究表明

that more and more women are saying that they feel beautiful.

越來越多的女性說，她們覺得自己很美。

But at the same time, the vast majority of women

但與此同時，絕大多數女性

say they feel pressure to be beautiful.

說她們覺得有壓力才會美麗。

So what effect is this online beauty culture having on us?

那麼這種網絡美容文化對我們有什麼影響呢？

If we have more choices and more information than ever before,

如果我們比以往有更多的選擇和更多的資訊。

why do I feel so trapped?

為什麼我感覺如此困頓？

( music playing )

（音樂播放）

( music playing )

（音樂播放）

Baby Katie Holmes.

寶貝凱蒂・霍姆斯

Joss: November 1997.

喬斯。1997年11月

So here's how makeup was marketed in the '90s.

所以，90年代的化妝品是如何營銷的。

"So breakthrough. So new. So sheer."

"如此突破。如此新穎。如此純粹。"

So, it's, like, you had to read copy,

所以，這是一樣，你不得不讀副本。

- but no one read that. - Yeah.

- 但沒有人讀到這一點。- 是啊。

Today, if there's a YouTube video and someone's like,

今天，如果有一個YouTube視頻，有人的喜歡。

"I've used this product, I know it works, here's how you do it."

"我用過這個產品，我知道它的效果，下面是你的做法。"

- Way more compelling. - Way more compelling.

- 更引人注目的方式。- 更引人注目的方式。

The data shows that people interact with,

數據顯示，人們與。

meaning like and comment on influencers' videos and posts

意思是喜歡並評論影響者的視頻和帖子。

32 times more often than they do on brands.

比他們在品牌上的頻率高32倍。

I talked to Tiffany Gill about this.

我和Tiffany Gill談過這個問題。

She's a professor and an author

她是一個教授和作家

- who writes about the history of beauty culture. - Huh.

- 誰寫的美容文化史。- 咦。

I think the digital aspect is what really has changed.

我認為數字方面才是真正的變化。

What it has done is really democratized

它所做的是真正的民主化。

what beauty and beauty culture is,

什麼是美容美髮文化。

so that the people who are consumers

使得作為消費者的人

now have a lot more control

現在有了更多的控制權

over what constitutes beauty and beauty culture.

在什麼是美和美文化的問題上。

I mean, first of all, anybody can make content.

我的意思是，首先，任何人都可以做內容。

And when they do, they end up talking about

當他們這樣做時，他們最終談論的是

- a lot more than just makeup. - Hmm.

- 不僅僅是化妝。- 嗯。

- Hey, guys. - Hi.

- 嘿，夥計們。- 嗨，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說。

- Hi, guys. - Assalamu alaikum.

- 嗨，夥計們。- Assalamu alaikum.

Hi, everyone. Welcome back to my channel.

大家好，歡迎回到我的頻道。歡迎回到我的頻道。

The shade match is pretty good.

陰影的搭配相當不錯。

I clearly have imperfect skin,

我的皮膚顯然不完美。

but it doesn't mean that I don't love my face.

但這並不意味著我不愛惜自己的臉。

I did not have a good high school experience at all.

我的高中經歷一點也不好。

Most of it kind of stemmed around my skin tone.

大部分都是源於我的膚色。

Actually, all of it stemmed around my skin tone.

其實，這一切都源於我的膚色周圍。

I wanna talk to you guys about my body,

我想和你們談談我的身體。

about the fact that I'm fat.

關於我胖的事實。

If you need someone to talk to,

如果你需要找人傾訴

I'm always here. You can always DM me.

我一直在這裡。你可以隨時給我發DM。

I love you guys a lot.

我很愛你們。

I'll see you soon. Bye.

我很快就會看到你。拜拜

Aww.

啊

I wanna be friends with all of them.

我想和他們都做朋友

- Right? - They're so great.

- 對吧？- 他們是如此之大。

The reason why I think we're beginning

為什麼我認為我們開始

to see more women

看到更多的女性

sort of defining themselves as beautiful,

某種程度上將自己定義為美女。

is because they're able to find

是因為他們能夠找到

these kind of micro communities

這種微社區

that affirm their brand of beauty.

肯定其品牌的美感。

And as much as selfies get a bad rap,

雖然自拍被罵得很慘。

there's something very libratory

有一些很圖書館的東西

about being able to show yourself to the world

關於能夠向世界展示自己

and say, "Look, I'm beautiful."

並說，"你看，我是美麗的。"

Cleo: At every level in these magazines,

克萊奧在這些雜誌的每一個層次。

somebody was making a specific decision

謀定而後動

about who gets to be there.

關於誰能去那裡。

Not just the editors

不僅僅是編輯

and the gatekeepers at these institutions,

以及這些機構的守門人。

but, like, the agents of the models.

但是，像，模型的代理。

Whereas now, it's not as though somebody's making a decision

而現在，它不是好像有人在做決定。

about who gets to make a video.

關於誰可以做一個視頻。

You know, I think Instagram's actually been really, really important

你知道，我認為Instagram的 其實是真的，真的很重要。

for the ability to kind of follow people who look like you.

為能種跟隨像你一樣的人。

Because the reality is that not everyone is, like,

因為現實中，並不是每個人都是，喜歡。

a skinny blonde with big boobs.

一個瘦弱的金髮碧眼的大胸。

Woman: I follow a lot of women on Instagram

女人。 我在Instagram上關注了很多女人

that are in my age bracket.

是在我的年齡段。

And that makes me feel good

這讓我感覺很好

because before, we were invisible.

因為之前，我們是看不見的。

In my friend group, I was always the fat one.

在我的朋友群裡，我一直是胖子。

Every other thought was like, "How am I gonna lose weight?"

其他的想法都是 "我怎麼才能減肥？"

It came to the point

到了這個地步

where I wasn't even enjoying food.

在那裡我甚至沒有享受食物。

For me it was seeing all these stunning curved models.

對我來說，是看到了所有這些令人驚歎的曲面模型。

That made me realize, oh, I'm beautiful, too.

這讓我意識到，哦，我也很美。

We're going to IPSY which is this beauty convention

我們要去參加IPSY，就是這個美容大會。

where people can interact with their favorite beauty vloggers

在這裡，人們可以與自己喜歡的美妝博主進行互動。

- and makeup brands. - Let's do it.

- 和化妝品品牌。- 讓我們動手吧。

( music playing )

（音樂播放）

Joss: If you look around this event,

喬斯如果你看看這個事件。

it's a really sort of exciting environment.

這是一個非常刺激的環境。

And we get to talk to Gigi Gorgeous,

而我們要和Gigi Gorgeous談談。

who is one of the biggest YouTube beauty gurus out there.

誰是最大的YouTube美容大師之一。

- Hi. Nice to meet you. Gigi. - I'm Joss.

- 嗨，很高興見到你。很高興認識你。吉吉- 我是喬絲

If the internet hadn't come around,

如果不是互聯網的出現。

what do you think beauty culture would be like?

你覺得美容文化會是什麼樣子？

It really was very rare

真的很難得

to see a boy in makeup or, you know,

看到一個男孩在化妝或，你知道，

a brand stepping behind a transgender woman.

一個品牌在變性女人背後踩了一腳。

I feel like the times kind of pushed that along,

我覺得時代有點推波助瀾。

but I also feel like the internet did.

但我也感覺到，互聯網做到了。

Because along with these beautiful, stunning looks

因為隨著這些美麗的，令人驚歎的外觀

that are being created are also these stories

正在創造的也是這些故事

that are being told by the people doing them.

正在做的人告訴他們的。

I have felt for a very long time now

我已經感受了很久

that I was a girl trapped inside of a boy's body.

我是一個女孩被困在一個男孩的身體裡。

I'm really excited just today to talk about my mom.

我真的很激動，就在今天說說我的媽媽。

Ah! This literally smells like her.

啊，這簡直就是她的味道。

I think that that instantly kind of connects you in a way

我認為，瞬間那種連接你的方式。

where it's no longer fan and talent.

在這裡，它不再是粉絲和人才。

It's literally family and, like, friend.

這是字面上的家人，也是，朋友。

Cleo: And that's what the online community feels like sometimes,

克萊奧這就是網上社區有時的感覺。

a group of friends all getting ready together

簇擁而至

and swapping tips.

並交換心得。

Consumers are more informed than they've ever been.

消費者比以往任何時候都更瞭解情況。

They can take these tools and change the way

他們可以利用這些工具來改變

they present themselves to the world.

他們向世界展示自己。

But if you look at it another way,

但如果你換個角度看。

then it's this constant cycle

循環往復

that ultimately is costing women

最終使婦女付出代價的

big chunks of their paycheck,

大塊的工資。

but also something that's more valuable,

但也是更有價值的東西。

which is the space in their mind.

也就是他們心中的空間。

Cleo: If you're like me,

克萊奧如果你像我一樣。

you're spending hours on your phone every day.

你每天花在手機上的時間。

Last week I spent six and a half hours on Instagram.

上週我在Instagram上花了六個半小時。

Which means we're constantly faced

這意味著我們要不斷面對

with images of other people

帶著別人的形象

to compare ourselves to.

來比較我們自己。

And a lot of the time, with the advent of filters,

而很多時候，隨著過濾器的出現。

those images are full of subtle, little changes,

這些畫面充滿了微妙的小變化。

like this skin smoother I've been using.

喜歡這個皮膚光滑的我一直在使用。

And if everyone around you

如果你身邊的人

is making subtle tweaks to their face,

正在對自己的臉進行微妙的調整。

it can warp your understanding of yourself

它可以扭曲你對自己的理解

and how you fit in.

以及你如何適應。

If you're thinking, sure,

如果你在想，當然。

but we've always compared ourselves to pretty people.

但我們總是把自己比作漂亮的人。

That's true, but there's evidence to suggest

這是真的，但有證據顯示

it's even more concerning online.

在網上更是備受關注。

One study found it made women feel worse

一項研究發現，它使女性感覺更糟

when they compared themselves

自比

to beautiful peers on social media

在社交媒體上向美麗的同行們展示

as opposed to beautiful celebrities in traditional media

相對於傳統媒體上的美女明星而言

like magazines and in movies.

如雜誌和電影中。

Researchers think that's because our peers on social media

研究人員認為，這是因為我們在社交媒體上的同行們。

feel like more relevant comparisons.

感覺更有針對性的比較。

They feel more like us.

他們感覺更像我們。

And then there's all the likes and comments.

還有就是所有的點贊和評論。

Another study found that seeing someone leave a compliment

另一項研究發現，看到別人留下的讚美之詞

like, "You look amazing!"

就像，"你看起來棒極了！"

on a pretty woman's photo on Instagram,

在Instagram上的一張漂亮女人的照片上。

made the viewer less happy with their own body.

讓觀眾對自己的身體不太滿意。

I leave comments like that on my friends' posts all the time,

我經常在朋友的帖子上留下這樣的評論。

and I really didn't realize it was having this effect.

我真的不知道它有這樣的效果。

It makes sense that the more we compare ourselves to good-looking people,

我們越是和好看的人比較，越是有道理。

the more dissatisfied we are, and the more beauty work

越是不滿意，越是做美工。

it feels like we have to do to keep up.

感覺就像我們必須要做才能跟上。

And I should also say,

我還應該說。

I'm wearing makeup on a professionally lit set.

我在專業的燈光下化妝。

So, I have no high horse here.

所以，我在這裡沒有什麼高招。

This says, "Youth activating concentrate."

這句話說的是："青春激活濃縮"。

Because there's a 23-year-old inside me.

因為在我心裡有一個23歲的人。

You just have to activate it with something like this.

你只需要用這樣的東西激活它。

I do use this often.

我確實經常用這個。

'Cause it feels really good. It's super cold.

因為這感覺真的很好。它是超級冷的。

Cleo: What is its objective?

克萊奧它的目標是什麼？

I'm sure it does nothing.

我相信它什麼都不會做。

Emma: Skincare is really expensive.

艾瑪：護膚品真的很貴。

My facial oils are an investment,

我的面油是一種投資。

and it's just never-ending in the name of self-care.

而這只是永無止境的以自理為名。

I see these lines, and they're just gonna get worse and worse and worse.

我看到這些線，他們只是會得到 越來越差，越來越差。

And I should actuall y love them and accept them

我應該愛他們，接受他們。

because they're lines that are actually the result of my life.

因為它們是線，其實是我生活的結果。

But they really, really bother me,

但他們真的，真的讓我很困擾。

and now it's the first thing that I see.

而現在，它是我看到的第一件事。

I see my boyfriend just roll out of bed

我看到我男朋友剛從床上滾下來

and take a shower and go to work.

然後洗個澡就去上班了。

And when I watch him do that

而當我看著他這樣做

I wonder, you know, not why can't I do that,

我想知道，你知道，不是我為什麼不能這樣做。

but why does it feel so bad when I do?

但為什麼當我這樣做的時候感覺如此糟糕？

- Hello. - Hey.

- 你好啊- 嘿，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說，我是說。

So we're gonna talk about the bigger context here.

所以，我們要在這裡談談更大的背景。

- Okay. - Recently, a group of computer scientists

- 好吧 最近，一群計算機科學家

figured out a way to analyze the language

想出了一種分析語言的方法

that writers use when they describe men and women

鴛鴦戲水

in three and a half million books in English.

在三百五十萬冊英文書籍中。

We're talking about both nonfiction and fiction books.

我們說的是非小說和小說書。

So what they did is they pulled out the 200 adjectives

所以他們所做的是他們拿出了200個形容詞。

that were most uniquely used to describe men and women.

最獨特的用於描述男人和女人的東西。

And what they found was that of those words,

而他們發現的是，這些話的。

the ones used to describe women were twice as likely

用來形容婦女的，比用來描述婦女的可能性高一倍。

- to be about their physical appearance or their bodies. - Mm.

- 是關於他們的外貌或身體。- Mm.

Christophe: Pretty, fair, beautiful,

克里斯托夫漂亮，公平，美麗。

lovely, charming--

可愛的，迷人的 -

those are all kind of words describing appearance.

這些都是形容外表的詞語。

Whereas like faithful, responsible, grand, worthy, adventurous,

而像忠實、負責、隆重、值得、冒險。

these are all, like, character judgments

這些都是一樣，性格判斷

- of who someone actually is. - Mm-hmm.

- 的人實際上是誰。- 嗯哼。

And these are books that were published between the years

而這些書都是在這幾年間出版的。

1500 and 2008.

1500和2008年。

So what about today?

那麼今天呢？

Well, in 2017, the Pew Research Center

那麼，在2017年，皮尤研究中心

did a survey of American adults,

做了一個美國成年人的調查。

and they asked this really interesting question, which was,

他們問了這個非常有趣的問題，這是：

"What traits do people in our society

"我們社會的人都有哪些特點

value most in men and in women?"

男人和女人最看重的是什麼？"

- Okay. - Now, this was an open-ended question,

- 好吧 這是個開放式的問題。

meaning people could write anything.

意思是人們可以寫任何東西。

But you guys are gonna do

但你們要做的是

the multiple choice version.

多選版。

What do you guys think the top six responses were?

你們覺得前六名的回答是什麼？

Strength and toughness I feel like is not gonna be

力量和韌性，我覺得是不會的。

on the female list for what people value.

在女性榜單上，人們重視的。

- Yeah, that's gotta be off the list. - And ambition.

- 是啊，這得是關閉的名單。- 和野心。

People hate those things in women.

人們討厭女人身上的那些東西。

Wow, it's just so hard to listen to this.

哇，這話聽著真難受。

Just think of really ( bleep ) up--

只要想想真的（嗶）了------。

You both have six down. You good with them?

你們兩個都有六個人倒下了。你能搞定他們嗎？

All right, should Joss and I rearrange?

好吧，我和喬斯要不要重新安排？

So the top answers for women were

是以，女性的首要答案是

physical attractiveness, and then empathy,

身體的吸引力，然後是同理心。

nurturing, and kindness.

培養，和善良。

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