Name: 「アナ雪」登場人物のドレスを専門家がファッションチェック。| VOGUE JAPAN
Uploaded: 2020-08-14T19:20:09.000Z
Duration: 11 min 25 s

這是安娜 這是艾爾莎 This is Ana, and this is Elsa.

You know them from frozen, you know, this outfit and this one.

你在《冰雪奇緣》裡認識他們的，你知道的，這套衣服和這一件。

我們得到了這個時尚歷史學家。

Hi, I'm Rice Britannia and I'm a fashion historian.

嗨，我是大米布里塔尼亞，我是一個時尚歷史學家。

What is he got, right and what they got wrong about these dresses?

他對這些衣服的理解，對的和他們錯的是什麼？

First, let's establish a time period for isn't a set in 18 forties Norway.

首先，讓我們建立一個時間段，是不是在18四十年代的挪威設置。

We know it's Norway because there are few words anything else.

我們知道這是挪威，因為很少有別的詞。

The town of Aaron Dell is named after the Norwegian town are Indal.

亞倫-戴爾鎮是以挪威小鎮都因達爾命名的。

冰雪奇緣》就是根據這個故事改編的。

The Snow Queen, which was written in 18 44.

Let's start with Elsa's iconic Ice Queen Look.

先說說艾爾莎標誌性的冰雪女王造型。

For most of the 19th century, Norway and Sweden were united.

在19世紀的大部分時間裡，挪威和瑞典是統一的。

We actually know who the queen was, and that was Josephine of Les Achtenberg, and her coronation ceremony was 18 44.

我們實際上知道誰是王后，那就是Les Achtenberg的Josephine，她的加冕儀式是1844年。

So what's inaccurate about Elsa's coronation.

那麼艾爾莎的加冕有什麼不準確的地方。

I noticed that the silhouette is way too narrow, because at this time, period skirts were pretty full, and I'm not really sure what's happening with those sleeves.

我注意到這個輪廓太窄了，因為這個時候，時期的裙子是很豐滿的，我真的不知道這些袖子是怎麼回事。

But long sleeves wouldn't be worn at night, so this is not accurate.

但長袖不會在晚上穿，所以這是不準確的。

Let's draw Elsa's coronation gown from the undergarments up.

讓我們把Elsa的加冕禮服從內衣往上畫。

First up Thea underwear So the first thing should be wearing would be shimmies, and underneath she would also be wearing drawers.

首先是西婭的內衣，所以首先應該穿的會是搖粒絨，下面也會穿抽屜。

The 18 forties saw the popularization of split crotch drawers.

十八世紀四十年代，分襠抽屜流行起來。

These were two separate pieces of fabric.

He's reached below the knee and were secured by ribbon.

他的膝蓋以下被絲帶固定住了。

This is the beginning of what we think of as modern underwear.

這就是我們認為的現代內衣的開始。

Next layer, a woman would wear stockings called Strum Papa in Norway.

下一層，女人會穿絲襪，在挪威叫Strum Papa。

What we have here is an original design for a stocking, and you can really see that there are these floral motifs crawling up the leg.

我們這裡的是一個原創的絲襪設計，你真的可以看到，有這些花紋圖案爬上腿部。

Next up, the course it corsets were essential for hundreds of years, but in the 19th century they were distinctly hourglass shaped.

接下來，當然它的胸衣是幾百年來必不可少的，但在19世紀，它們是明顯的沙漏形狀。

The 18 40 saw the beginning of a practice called tight lacing, which involved tying your course it really tight.

1840年，人們開始了一種叫做 "緊密繫帶 "的做法，這涉及到把你的球道綁得很緊。

The goal was Mento have the smallest waistline possible, even if it meant not breathing.

目標是門託有儘可能小的腰圍，即使這意味著不呼吸。

Here's where the silhouette starts to diverge from the Disney Elsa.

這裡的剪影開始與迪士尼的艾爾莎有了分歧。

看到這裡這個圓頂的形狀了嗎？

It's created by layers and layers and layers of petticoats.

它是由層層疊疊的襯衣創造出來的。

Thes petticoats were very heavy upwards of £20.

The bottom petticoat would likely be made of something called horsehair, which was really stiff and helped to really stick out the silhouette.

下面的襯裙很可能是用一種叫馬鬃的東西做的，這種東西真的很硬，有助於真正突出輪廓。

Quilted petticoats would be worn on top of that to help really smooth out that silhouette.

絎縫襯裙會穿在上面，以幫助真正平滑的輪廓。

The outermost petticoat was typically white, made of cotton or linen, and this would be your nicest petty coat on top of all of that, the ceremonial gown.

最外面的襯裙一般是白色的，用棉布或麻布做的，這將是你最漂亮的小衣，在所有的小衣之上，就是禮儀袍。

Because we're talking about Elsa's coronation day, we're gonna look at a very specific type of dress called a court gown.

因為我們要討論的是Elsa的加冕日 我們要看的是一種非常特殊的禮服 叫做宮廷禮服。

This here is the actual court gown that Josephine war.

這就是約瑟芬戰爭中的宮廷禮服。

For her coronation in 18 44 you can see quite a few differences, first of all, the color in most depictions of European monarchs.

對於她在18 44年的加冕禮，你可以看到不少不同的地方，首先是大多數歐洲君主的描寫中的顏色。

You see them wearing white coronation garb, and that's really because this is a religious ceremony.

你看他們穿著白色的冕服，那實在是因為這是一種宗教儀式。

And so the white and the gold really creates the symbolism of purity and divinity.

於是，白色和金色真正營造了純潔和神聖的象徵意義。

The bodice, the skirt and the train, which was often detachable.

胸衣、裙子和裙裾，往往是可拆卸的。

You can see that else is wearing long sleeves, and that is definitely wrong for this kind of dress.

你看別人都是穿長袖，那肯定是不適合這種衣服的。

Here you see an example of an 18 forties day dress.

這裡你看到的是一個1840年代日裝的例子。

It really should be a short flouncy sleeves, and adding onto the train would be the cape.

真的應該是短款的齊袖，加到火車上就是披肩了。

So this is actually Josephine's coronation cape.

所以這其實是約瑟芬的加冕披風。

They actually did a pretty good job with Elsa's coronation cape because, as you can see, it is pretty law.

其實他們對艾爾莎的加冕披風做得很好，因為你可以看到，它是很有規律的。

Also, that magenta color is pretty wrong, but I'll get into that later and now her shoes.

還有，那個洋紅的顏色很不對，但我以後會說到的，現在她的鞋子。

So the issues would have been called straits, which managed there was no right and left, and we wouldn't see specific right and left shoes until the later half of the 19th century.

所以問題會被稱為海峽，這管理沒有左右，直到19世紀後半期，我們才會看到具體的左右鞋。

Evening shoes were typically made of silk and mostly warn indoors, moving onto the hair and crown.

晚裝鞋一般是用絲綢製成的，大多是在室內警告，移到頭髮和皇冠上。

European hairstyles were greatly influenced by Queen Victoria, the queen of Britain.

歐式髮型受英國女王維多利亞的影響很大。

This hairstyle was often featured in fashion plates alongside other fashionable hairstyles from the period, one of which was this style called spaniel curls, and they were these curls that kind of came and framed the face.

這款髮型經常和其他時期的時尚髮型一起出現在時尚板塊中，其中有一種叫做西班牙犬捲髮的這種風格，他們就是這種捲髮，有點來，把臉部框住了。

It appears the Queen Josephine is wearing her hair in this style here.

看來約瑟芬女王在這裡梳的是這種風格的頭髮。

The only thing really accurate about else's hair is that she is wearing an up do, which is appropriate for evening.

別人的髮型唯一真正準確的是她梳了一個上翹的髮型，這適合晚上。

So I'm trying to figure out what kind of Crown Queen Josephine would have worn.

所以我想知道約瑟芬王后會穿什麼樣的王冠。

If we look at this 18 58 portrait, we see that she's wearing a diamond tiara, and this is the one that became more closely associated with her.

如果我們看這幅18 58的畫像，就會發現她戴著一個鑽石頭飾，這就是和她關係比較密切的頭飾。

So here's what else it would have looked like compared to the original Disney Look.

那麼這裡和原來的迪士尼造型相比，它還會是什麼樣子呢？

Let's move on to Ana on a purchases this outfit from wandering O'Quinn's trading post.

我們繼續說說安娜在逛奧奎因的交易站時購買的這件裝備。

This is on the way out to the countryside.

So was this accurate for the 19th century Norwegian countryside, the animators really took care to include elements from traditional Norwegian folk clothing.

那麼這對於19世紀的挪威鄉村來說是否準確呢，動畫師真的很用心地加入了挪威傳統民俗服裝的元素。

There's a specific Norwegian folk costume called the Boo Nod.

挪威有一種特殊的民俗服裝，叫 "布點"。

You may have seen pictures like this or this, and that's really what you think of when you think of Norwegian costume, and that is what the animators were going for with honest costume of course on his costume isn't totally historical because again made up kingdom.

你可能看到過這樣或者這樣的圖片，當你想到挪威的服裝時，你真的會想到這樣的圖片，這就是動畫師們要用誠實的服裝當然在他的服裝上並不是完全的歷史，因為又是編造的王國。

The main and accuracy is I see are really her boots and the color of that cape, so that's not totally accurate, either.

主要和準確的是我看到的真的是她的靴子和那件披風的顏色，所以也不是完全準確。

Now we're going to draw every layer of this dress.

現在我們要畫出這件衣服的每一層。

If Ana is wearing her own drawers from the coronation, we actually see a peak of them and they do have a little ruffled edge of the end.

如果安娜穿的是自己在加冕禮上的抽屜，其實我們看到的是抽屜的一個峰值，而且抽屜的末端確實有一點荷葉邊。

Next up to stockings for all the seasons, women wore stockings.

接下來是四季的絲襪，女人穿絲襪。

But you see her climbing a mountain, and it appears she's not wearing any stockings at all.

但你看她爬山的時候，似乎根本就沒有穿絲襪。

When I saw that peak of leg, I was like, Come on, you guys, and then the courses.

當我看到那條腿的時候，我就想，你們，來吧，然後課程。

I really doubt that Okin had corsets in his shop, so I think we can assume that Ana was wearing her course it from earlier.

我很懷疑Okin的店裡有沒有胸衣，所以我想我們可以假設Ana穿著她之前的課程。

Next, the petticoats petticoats were a product of modesty because they hid the woman's natural shape.

其次，襯裙襯裙是一種謙虛的產物，因為它們掩蓋了女人的自然形狀。

Even seeing an ankle would be very scandalous in this time period.

在這個時代，即便是看到腳踝，也是非常醜陋的。

Shorter is Norwegian for shirt thes, very region by region, but for the most part they were white and made of Lenin.

Shorter是挪威人的襯衫thes，非常地區的地區，但大多數情況下，他們是白色的，由列寧。

This shirt is on actual short, tough from the mid 19th century, and you can see that it has a very full sleeves unlike on us.

這件襯衫是在實際的短，強硬的19世紀中期，你可以看到它有一個非常完整的袖子不像我們。

The bodice to the traditional Norwegian costume is called the Leave.

挪威傳統服裝的胸衣叫做 "假"。

The bodice was decorated with what is known as Roosa mauling embroidery.

衣服上裝飾著所謂的羅紗拖繡。

Honest costume absolutely incorporates this type of embroidery, but the bodice is varied from region to region, and they came in many different colors in this Norwegian genre painting from 18 67 we do see a young girl wearing this type of bodice and then a skirt, and this bodice would be worn with a skirt or shirt in Norwegian.

誠實的服裝絕對結合了這種類型的刺繡，但是不同地區的胸衣是不同的，他們有很多不同的顏色，在這幅18 67年的挪威風格畫中，我們確實看到一個年輕的女孩穿著這種類型的胸衣，然後穿著裙子，這種胸衣在挪威會搭配裙子或襯衫。

In this early 19th century costume study, we see helpful thes skirts could have gotten so gruesome.

在這個19世紀初的服裝研究中，我們看到了有用的裙子可以變得如此可怕。

Rolling embroidery came from the art of what painting that was very popular in the 18th century and continued into the 19th century.

滾繡來自於18世紀非常流行的什麼畫藝術，並一直延續到19世紀。

You can see a variety of different skirts here that have this really elaborate floral embroidery honors embroidery is really graphic and streamline, and I'll give them credit they put the right embroidery in the right place.

你可以在這裡看到各種不同的裙子，有這種非常精緻的花卉刺繡榮譽刺繡是真正的圖形和流線型，我會給他們的榮譽，他們把正確的刺繡在正確的地方。

It just isn't as elaborate as it would have been, probably because of the medium were working in here.

它只是沒有它本來的精緻，可能是因為在這裡工作的媒介。

Most women in the countryside would wear an apron to complete the constant in some regions.

農村的婦女大多會穿上圍裙，在一些地區完成恆定。

A special kind of bag was worn at the waist and that was called the vest ska.

腰間掛著一種特殊的包，那叫背心斯卡。

It would be fastened at the waistband and hang in the front, and it was a really visible part of the costume, so visible that often it was also embroidered.

它會系在腰帶上，掛在前面，這真的是服裝中很顯眼的一部分，顯眼到往往也會有刺繡。