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  • Papua over 1,400 islands, large and small, scattered between the Equator and north Australia.

  • Many of these islands are tiny, uninhabited coral atolls.

  • The majority are of volcanic formation.

  • Geologically, Papua is a transition zone between the islands of Indonesia and the smaller ones of Oceania.

  • In caves like this one on the island of Kiriguina, in the Trobriand archipelago,

  • remains have been found of the first human inhabitants of these islands.

  • As a result of the last glaciation, the water level went down,

  • and some Polynesian peoples were able to cross to these small islands.

  • But then, when the ice melted and the sea level rose again, these communities were cut off.

  • Dating of the oldest human remains shows that these islands were inhabited over 40,000 years ago.

  • The different ethnic groups that live on the islands of Papua

  • were greatly feared by the sailors who dared to navigate the waters of theseaccursedislands.

  • Head-hunters and cannibals, these fierce warriors of the sea remained isolated until well into the twentieth century.

  • Their bloodthirsty fame meant that, for a long time, their territory remained unexplored by Europeans.

  • Still today there are isolated areas where there are cases of cannibalism and ritual decapitations,

  • especially along the border with Irian-Jaya, on the island of New Guinea.

  • Traditional customs and rituals remain strong among the inhabitants of these islands,

  • though now it is unusual to find a village without a mission of one of the over 100 different churches,

  • which compete for converts among the Papuan natives.

  • But though they attend worship and prayers to these imported gods,

  • the Papuans continue to follow their traditional laws and age-old customs.

  • These young Tolais, from the island of New Britain,

  • have to undergo a severe initiation before being able to sail alone.

  • They have togo to see the fish”, as this ceremony is called;

  • it is a test of their courage and capacity for suffering.

  • If they bear the pain without flinching, a string of shells

  • is placed around their necks, symbolising the passage to adulthood.

  • They are now ready to face the dangers of the sea, protected by the spirits of the forest.

  • That is why, during the initiation, they cover their bodies with green sap.

  • Fishing is the main activity of the Tolai.

  • They use hooks, nets and harpoons.

  • The most important journeys are those to trade with other neighbouring islands.

  • These crossings are subject to the traditional laws, which regulate relations among the different tribes.

  • The villages do not have a well-defined structure.

  • The stilt houses are arranged in family groups.

  • The meeting place is normally the open area opposite the house of the village chief.

  • As well as fishers, they are also gatherers and farmers.

  • The pace of life is slow, no one rushes, there is no stress.

  • The women are responsible for household chores and looking after the children,

  • as well as gathering fruits from the forest.

  • The men plant the yam fields, take care of the pigs and go fishing.

  • They are very hierarchical societies.

  • For example, in the Trobriand islands, above the village chiefs stands the figure of the Paramon Chif,

  • who is responsible for everything that happens on the islands.

  • As in much of Melanesia, the society is matrilineal

  • the children of the marriage belong to the woman’s clan.

  • In Papua, there are over 900 different languages and more than 1,000 different ethnic groups.

  • Communication would be impossible if it were not for pidgin english,

  • a language with elements of both English and the native languages.

  • Yams are the most important crop in the Trobriand islands

  • In fact, they are a symbol of wealth, both personal and of the clan.

  • Every man must build a yam house for each one of his wives.

  • This is where the tubers are stored after the harvest.

  • They are constructions which can quickly be taken down then rebuilt,

  • and protect the yams from the humidity during the rainy season.

  • Between June and July the harvest rites take place.

  • The largest yams are put on display before being stored.

  • No one can begin harvesting until the crop of the Paramon Chif has been gathered in.

  • This is when the most important ritual celebrations on these islands are held.

  • Each family has to give part of their crop to the Paramon Chif.

  • This is a tax, which varies from year to year,

  • depending on the results of the harvest.

  • While they are storing the yams, the families ask the magic man to carry out a small ceremony,

  • so the yams will be under the protection of the spirits,

  • who will make sure they do not rot.

  • The yam houses are administered by the brothers-in-law of the owners,

  • or by someone from the woman’s clan,

  • further evidence of the matrilineal nature of this society.

  • The houses of the Paramon Chif are richly decorated with wood carvings which symbolise his power.

  • The importance of these carvings is such that those who make them, occupy a very high position in society.

  • Magic occupies a central position in the lives of these people.

  • No one does anything without first consulting the witch doctors,

  • who will prescribe, according to the case, the actions and ceremonies

  • that will have to be performed in order to ensure success.

  • Illness and misfortune have their origins in magic,

  • either because you have offended a spirit, or because someone else has cast a spell against you.

  • When they are ill, or when they believe they are the victims of a spell because things are going badly,

  • they turn to the magic men to cure them or solve their problems.

  • The world of the dead is just as real as that of the living.

  • It exists at the same time, but in a parallel, hermetic sphere,

  • only accessible through the rituals and knowledge of magic of the witch doctors and medicine men.

  • As in all animist societies, nothing happens by chance.

  • Everything, good and bad, is the result of the intervention of beings from the other world.

  • On the island of Kiriwina we attend a purifying ceremony.

  • The participants, under the protection of the medicine man,

  • invoke their ancestors to fight and drive out the evil spirits which have caused a bad harvest.

  • When the medicine man senses that the protective spirits have arrived,

  • he orders the participants to move away,

  • to the edge of the forest, to exorcise the evil they have inside them.

  • Then, they receive his blessing, which will protect them form malign influences.

  • In the dead of night, on the island of New Britain,

  • the Tumbuan mask dances to the beat of the canes.

  • They invoke it to ask it to intervene between men and the gods.

  • It is a messenger spirit who brings and takes communications from the other world.

  • Each village has its own masks.

  • The initiated gather together in the forest with the carver and tell him what the mask should look like,

  • and how it should be decorated.

  • Then, they have to bless it, through a complicated liturgical process

  • which lasts for around three months.

  • During this time, only those in authority can see it.

  • When it is completed, one night without warning,

  • the mask suddenly appears in the village

  • for the women and the non-initiated it was created by the spirit of the forest itself.

  • Pigs are very important in Papua.

  • They are a symbol of wealth.

  • The more pigs a family has, the higher their social level.

  • There is no celebration at which pigs are not sacrificed.

  • Among the majority of the island peoples,

  • the dowry consists of a certain number of pigs.

  • They are also used as compensation for any possible wrong a clan may have committed against another.

  • The coconut is the other important element in their diet,

  • and one of the main economic resources.

  • When, at the start of the twentieth century,

  • it was discovered that copra oil greatly reduced the cost of steel manufacture,

  • these islands became extremely important places for European industry.

  • This is one of the reasons for the rapid colonisation of the region.

  • To obtain the oil, they dry the copra, or pith of the coconut in these ovens.

  • Then, they grind and press it.

  • By squeezing the pulp of the coconut, they also obtain the highly nutritious milk.

  • They use it as a drink, and to cook the cassava, wrapped in banana leaves.

  • The coconut palm is one of the most valuable trees for the inhabitants of Papua.

  • Virtually every part of it is used.

  • From the husk, they make ropes and fabrics,

  • and with the inner shell, which is much harder, they make all types of utensils.

  • After extracting the oil, the copra is used as cattle feed.

  • The juice of the flowers is boiled to obtain sugar.

  • They also eat the young shoots, which have very high energy value.

  • From the bark they obtain resin, and with the leaves make baskets,

  • hats and the roofs of their houses.

  • Finally, the wood is used to make furniture and oars, and in construction.

  • Another extremely useful plant in these latitudes is the banana tree.

  • Apart from the fruit, which is present at most meals,

  • the leaves are used to wrap foods to be cooked or fermented.

  • Dried in the sun, they make skirts and costumes with them.

  • They also serve as tablecloths and even as umbrellas.

  • The canoe builders are very important in these communities

  • They have the same social status as the carvers of yam houses.

  • A man may not have a house,

  • but if he does not have a boat he virtually does not exist for the community.

  • Even the old men, though they can no longer sail, keep their canoes,

  • riddled with woodworm, at the side of their houses.

  • Their souls will travel in them when they die.

  • They are a symbol of life, which mystically unites them with the sea

  • and maintains them in contact with the world of the living.

  • When they die, their canoes are abandoned far from the shore,

  • so the currents will carry them out to sea,

  • to the mermaids who will accompany their spirit

  • on its final voyage to the realm of the gods.

  • They believe their boats bear the traces of all the acts and deeds of this life.

  • They are the summary of everything they have been and everything they have done.

  • When the canoes reach their final destination,

  • the gods can read them and decide the fate of their souls.

  • In the Trobriand islands, hundreds of defiant warriors await the arrival of their enemies.

  • They have emerged from the forest at the first light of day,

  • after performing the ceremony to invoke the god of war.

  • These cruel headhunters have become sportsmen in a strange game,

  • Trobriand cricket, which is an important social event.

  • It was the British missionaries who taught them this game,

  • in an attempt to channel the innate aggressiveness of these people into sport.

  • The cricket teams are made up of 11 players,

  • but here they are all from the same tribe or village.

  • Sometimes, each side can have a hundred or a hundred and fifty men,

  • and the match can last for days.

  • Before the game begins, the rival teams sing old songs, which speak of their warrior exploits.

  • It is a way to incite and impress the rival team.

  • Then, they exchange betel nuts, as a symbol of fraternity.

  • These nuts, also called baual, are slightly narcotic.

  • The Papuans eat them all the time, mixed with burnt coral dust, which increases the stimulant effects.

  • The cricket bats are decorated with clan and magic symbols

  • similar to those that decorate the bodies of the players.

  • The regulation dress is the same as they used in the past when going to war:

  • shorts made from dried banana leaves,

  • coloured bands around legs and arms, and feather headdresses.

  • The original rules of the game have been altered over time

  • and have incorporated the old warrior rituals.

  • The only similarity with cricket as we know it

  • is the fact that the ball is hit with the bat,

  • and players run from one wicket to the other.

  • All the rest is magical and ancestral liturgy.

  • For these cricket warriors, a defeat at the hands of another village is a real tragedy.

  • When a player is out, he is considered dead, and they cry as if he had really died.

  • In the same way, every certain number of runs is celebrated like a major victory.

  • During the three or four days that the match lasts,

  • the women of the host village are in charge of preparing the food for the visiting team,

  • and organising the farewell ceremony, at which the Paramon Chif will give out the prizes,

  • in the form of betel nuts and yams, to the most outstanding players.

  • On the islands of Papua there are many volcanoes, a lot of them active,

  • like Turvurvur, which in 1994 destroyed the city of Rabaul, the capital of the island of New Britain.

  • Thanks to a false alarm in 1984, the city was ready for evacuation,

  • and there were no victims.

  • A week before the eruption, there was an earthquake, which alerted the authorities.

  • For four days, Turvurvur spat out lava and red hot rocks which set alight many houses.

  • Everything was covered in ash.

  • But the worst was to come later.

  • When reconstruction work had begun, the rains arrived,

  • and the ash that had been deposited on the mountain slopes was washed down by the waters,

  • flooding and burying the city.

  • Since then, the Turvurvur volcano has continued to spew out toxic gases,

  • and the smoke warns of the constant danger.

  • Any plans to rebuild the city and the port seem to have abandoned forever.

  • The people moved to nearby Kokopo, which is now the administrative capital.

  • Old Rabaul is for the time being buried beneath the ash,

  • a reminder of what the force of nature is capable of, and how man is powerless against it.

  • Rabaul was an important military enclave for the Japanese during the Second World War.

  • A strategic place, fundamental for such famous battles as those of Guadalcanal or the Coral Sea.

  • The north of this island of New Britain quickly became a fortress.

  • The bay was mined, the roads concealed with trees,

  • and some 580 kilometres of underground passages were dug,

  • linking the different barracks and encampments,

  • where they would not be seen by the allied airforces.

  • There are still some Japanese ships moored inside the tunnels

  • built along the coast, opening directly into the sea.

  • It is calculated that in Rabaul and the surrounding area over 20,000 tonnes of bombs fell.

  • In the bay, many remains of ships have been found, and thousands of torpedo shells.

  • In time, these metal structures have been populated by algae and corals,

  • which are home to a large number of marine species.

  • Scuba divers from all over the world come here to see them.

  • In any corner of the island we can find rusted war remains and cemeteries

  • which tell of the horror that war brought to these islands in paradise.

  • Dances are an essential part of the spirituality of these people.

  • Through dance, they invoke the spirits, to ask them for protection and favour.

  • The Tolai who, numbering around 180,000, are the most numerous group on the island of New Britain,

  • invoke the duk-duk and the tumbuan, which are spirits of the forest.

  • It would seem these people originally came from the Duke of York islands,

  • which are in the entrance to the bay of Rabaul.

  • On their headdresses they place small carvings

  • which represent the protective spirits of each clan of initiates.

  • These clans are governed by a council of ancients and by a chief chosen by this council.

  • The dancers remain apart from the rest of the people,

  • in a magical area which no one can enter.

  • They have taken on the identity of the invoked spirits

  • and now are not of this world.

  • If someone who has not been initiated disobeyed this prohibition,

  • the force of the spirits would possess him, and cause his death.

  • Though the dances contain elements of magic,

  • not all are performed for religious reasons.

  • Among the inhabitants of the Trobriand islands

  • there are a number of dances simply for pleasure,

  • performed at special celebrations, or as a kind of courtship ritual.

  • The men practice the dance steps outside the village, in the so-called tapioca dans.

  • At dusk, they gather with the girls in the main square of the village, and dance together for hours.

  • Each step has a particular symbolism.

  • All the movements correspond to a specific wish, which is interpreted by the matchmakers.

  • They are performed after the yams have been harvested.

  • For weeks, these courtship dances can be seen in village after village.

  • Now, they use foreign instruments like the guitar,

  • which have been incorporated into the traditional rhythms, and the gentle melodies of the islands.

  • The girls paint their faces with the symbols of their families and clans.

  • These serve to identify them.

  • In this way, the men of their own clan will turn their attention to other girls who they will be able to marry

  • for these people are exogamous.

  • The courtships end with the arrival of the rains.

  • By that time, the matchmakers will have decided which couples can marry the next year,

  • after having received the approval of their parents and the council of ancients,

  • who will determine the price of the dowries and on what terms these are to be paid.

  • The majority of the islands of Papua are coral - incredibly complex ecosystems.

  • On a rock, polyps will nest, and then, as they die they gradually create a bone-like structure,

  • on which others settle.

  • In this way, over thousands of years, they form entire atolls and islands.

  • Others are of volcanic origin. In this region,

  • the volcanoes are of the explosive type,

  • characterised by rapid, devastating eruptions.

  • In just a few days, a new island can emerge from the sea,

  • or be destroyed and disappear.

  • The markets are the centre of life in these villages.

  • Here, they can find all the products that make up the diet of the Papuan islanders.

  • The people of the islands are very different from those of Papua New Guinea.

  • Though they belong to the same country, their customs have nothing in common.

  • Papua New Guinea is enormous, and there are stills tribes

  • who live entirely isolated in the interior, never even seeing the sea.

  • In the highlands, the first contacts with white men took place very recently,

  • just 50 years ago.

  • On the islands, things were very different.

  • European sailors arrived there much earlier,

  • and today cultural influences have been absorbed to a much greater extent.

  • Something they greatly value, as well as the betel, is tobacco.

  • This is prepared in a very rudimentary way.

  • The leaves, dried in caves, are smoked in pipes, or wrapped to make cigarettes.

  • Tobacco is also used in rituals, it is a liturgical element.

  • Its smell attracts the spirits.

  • They believe that tobacco smoke helps achieve states of communion with the other world.

  • What is true is that when they inhale the smoke,

  • they feel more vulnerable,

  • more sensitive and open to receive the influence of the invisible forces that rule over the universe.

  • In these lands, far from the madness of the West,

  • people perceive the endless wisdom that comes from natural sources like the forest,

  • the sea or the storms, and interpret influences

  • which have been unable to survive in the industrial and urban system of which we are so proud.

  • In Rabaul, they still use the sell mony or traditional currency, which they call tambu.

  • They are small shells threaded together to make necklaces of a particular value.

  • These shells are very difficult to find.

  • Those specialised in looking for them consider a good average to be ten a day.

  • They search the beach for them, and then file them very carefully,

  • drill a hole through the middle, and thread them on bamboo strings.

  • The measure used for each necklace is equivalent to the number of shells that fit in a small beer bottle.

  • Each necklace has around three hundred shells.

  • Each group of ten necklaces makes up a loloi,

  • which has the value of thirty kinas, the official currency of the country.

  • Though they are still used as money in the markets,

  • in general nowadays they are used for rituals at certain celebrations,

  • at which the necklaces are broken and the shells shared out.

  • Great rolls, which can contain up to 90,000 shells, are very rarely broken.

  • They are a symbol of high social status.

  • These islands are subject to a kind of traditional, magical law,

  • which regulates relations of exchange and is known by the name Kula Ring.

  • Objects made from Spondylus shells, called Soulava,

  • are passed round clockwise, and the Muali,

  • which are made from white, conical shells, are passed round anti-clockwise.

  • The Kula circle includes the islands of Trobriand, Muyua, Lousiade, Samari,

  • and theEntrecasteaux.

  • When the Soulava or the Muali leave a village,

  • it may be years before they return, and then just for a few days,

  • but the fact they have travelled round the entire circle gives them great value.

  • On board the canoes, decorated in all their finery,

  • the delegation of a village sets out with the Kula objects

  • to visit villages on other islands, and make ritual and commercial exchanges.

  • A new lasting relationship will be born among the different villages they visit.

  • Apart from trade dealings, the Kula Ring ensures good relations among the different tribes.

  • The Kula canoes have nothing to do with fishing.

  • They are large, and can carry up to 14 people.

  • They have both sails and oars, and the launch of one is a very special event in the village.

  • Before they set out to sea, different rituals are performed,

  • so that the canoes will be properly protected by the spirits.

  • The Kula also transmits the Mwasila,

  • which is an entire system of teaching on behaviour and ways of being and acting.

  • It is passed down from generation to generation.

  • Mwasila is the knowledge of magic which is essential if a village is to form part of the Kulan Ring.

  • Relations among the over 1,400 islands of Papua

  • has attracted the attention of experts of all times and from all disciplines.

  • Though they were traditionally considered ferocious, bloodthirsty peoples,

  • the island Papuans have always had institutions for establishing relations of fraternity among each other.

  • Ancestral laws and codes which conditioned their lives and made peace possible,

  • though they also had strict, implacable measures against foreigners

  • who dared set foot in their territories.

  • Today, the islands of Papua are one of the most beautiful natural settings in the world,

  • and as in so many other places, they are rapidly assimilating the dominant, western culture.

  • Their customs are abandoned, and their beliefs distorted

  • through the influence of the over 100 different churches which preach religious doctrines

  • from the other side of the world.

  • Little by little, the imported gods are taking the place of the gods

  • that were born of the mystic experiences of the people themselves.

  • One western expert who was drawn to these islands

  • was the British anthropologist of Polish origin,

  • Bronislaw Malinoswski, who, from 1914, spent four years in the Trobriand islands.

  • He studied the way of life of these people,

  • and especially the freedom in their sexual relations.

  • He published a number of studies on free love in the South Seas,

  • which scandalized traditional European society.

  • The Banin, from northern New Britain, put the spirits of the forest to the test of fire.

  • The initiated have spent almost the entire day hidden in the forest,

  • invoking the supernatural beings that live in the depths of the jungle.

  • Their wooden masks are like the face of a duck

  • that is the image they have of the spirits.

  • The group of musicians beat a wooden dais with long, hollow canes,

  • making a monotonous percussive rhythm.

  • It is they who direct the actions of the spirits,

  • which dance around a large fire made by the women in the centre of the square.

  • They give the orders, successively changing the beat of the rhythm.

  • The spirits obey their wishes.

  • The test that demonstrates this domination is to pass through the fire,

  • walking across the burning embers.

  • The preparation of the costumes of the initiated is a painstaking task requiring a great deal of time.

  • The branches and leaves, which must entirely conceal their bodies,

  • so they cannot be recognised, have to be cut that same day, so they are green and do not burn.

  • The paintings with which they decorate their bodies

  • are made from natural pigments collected in the jungle.

  • Each initiate dresses and paints himself in a particular way

  • to represent specific gods which everyone knows.

  • A circular piece of wood, placed in the navel,

  • ensures that the spirit that possesses the initiate cannot escape.

  • They believe that these creatures from the other world enter and leave though the navel.

  • The Banin are neighbours of the Tolai, who consider them to be an inferior group.

  • Their customs and habits are rapidly being wiped out by the Christian sects,

  • and possibly in just a few years time it will be difficult to witness this fire dance.

  • That is the fate of many of these peoples, who are irresistibly attracted by western technology.

  • But the price they pay is high.

  • Loss of roots and culture makes them unhappy,

  • but once that road has been taken there’s no turning back.

  • Perhaps the oldest members are the only ones who realise the social disaster

  • that forgetting your own culture represents.

  • Our world is increasingly smaller and more uniform,

  • and the only way of life seems to be that exported by the West.

  • But we mustn’t fall into the trap.

  • With the natural resources of our planet only the rich countries can live the way they do

  • there’s not enough for everyone.

  • And yet we continue to encourage distant peoples to aspires to a western style of living,

  • peoples who will probably never be able to live the way we do.

  • Perhaps, one day these customs, born from the land in which they live,

  • will be revived and again give meaning to their existence.

  • Meanwhile, we will continue to witness the systematic destruction of cultures

  • that could have taught us many things.

Papua over 1,400 islands, large and small, scattered between the Equator and north Australia.

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海上勇士|全紀錄片 - Planet Doc 全紀錄片 (Warriors of the Sea | Full Focumentary - Planet Doc Full Documentaries)

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    羅致 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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