Name: 維多利亞女王化妝教程｜歷史的靈感｜Feat.Amber Butchart和Rebecca Butterworth。琥珀布查特和麗貝卡巴特沃斯 (Queen Victoria Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth)
Uploaded: 2021-01-14T11:03:58.000Z
Duration: 17 min 3 s

Hi, I'm Fashion Historian Amber Butchart.

你好，我是時尚歷史學家Amber Butchart

I'm here at Osborne on the Isle of Wight to follow in the royal foosteps of Queen Victoria.

我來到懷特島的奧斯本 跟隨維多利亞女王的皇家隊伍

Osborne was the holiday home for the Queen and her family through much of the 19th century

在19世紀的大部分時間 奧斯本是女王和其皇室成員的度假屋

and today it's cared for by English Heritage.

Victoria retreated here away from the prying eyes of the public but today we have a special invitation

以前維多利亞會來到這裡避開民眾的窺探 但今天我們有一個特別的邀請

So join us as we recreate another history inspired look and find out more about

那麼跟隨我們去見證又一個受到歷史啟發的妝容

the Queen, her home and the country she ruled over.

和探索更多關於女王在這裡的生活和她在位時的英國

Good thanks. So today, Queen Victoria. Now she reigned from 1837 to 1901 and after Queen Elizabeth II

非常感謝。所以今天的主題：維多利亞女王

she's actually our longest reigning monarch to date.

自1837至1901年她是繼伊利沙伯二世之後 迄今為止在位最長的執政君主

We're here in the glorious surroundings of Osbourne her holiday home so Rebecca

這輝煌的奧斯本正是她的度假屋

what look are you going to do for us today?

那麼Rebecca妳今天有什麼計劃呢？

On our beautiful model, Hollie, I'm going to be creating a Queen Victoria inspired makeup look.

在我們漂亮的模特兒Hollie身上 我會塑造一個受維多利亞女王啟發的化妝妝容

You can see from Victoria's various portraits that her look was very much a fair but not excessively white,

你可以從維多利亞的各個肖像中看到 她的皮膚偏白但又不至於過份的雪白

skin a little flush of color in the cheeks and very neat well groomed hair

臉頰透出一些紅暈，頭髮又整齊地梳理

So it's kind of the, it's the ultimate no makeup makeup tutorial that we're going to do today

所以這次我們會做的是 有點像最近流行的偽素顏化妝教學

There's a quote going round that Victoria herself thought that makeup was vulgar

有一個圍繞維多利亞的摘引是 她認為化妝是庸俗的

Now while we don't know the while we don't know the source of that quote what we do know is

雖然我們無法查證這句話的來源

in the Victorian era makeup became much less obvious

但我們知道維多利亞時代傾向避免濃妝豔抹 化妝變得越來越隱晦

那麼妳要創造的妝容是她在哪個場合會用上？

And so where would she have worn a look like the one you're going to create?

好吧，讓我們想像一下Hollie正準備給畫師為她繪畫肖像

Well, let's imagine that Holly is going to be

getting ready to have her portrait painted so that she needs to look very elegant

那麼開始我們化妝教學的第一步： 皮膚護理和打底

So let's start with the first part of our makeup tutorial and we'll talk

在奧斯本如果你上樓上女王的更衣室

你可以看到她的敷料桌子和洗手台

Here at Osborne if you go upstairs to Queen Victoria's

我很好奇那些壺子裡面曾經盛載過什麼

Dressing Room you can see her dressing table and her wash stand and I'm so

雖然查探女王用過的護膚化妝物料很棘手

curious I really want to know what's in all those little pots. It's tricky to

幸好我們從她的梳妝侍女Frieda Arnold 得到一些很有參考價值的記錄

know what Victoria wore on her face, but we do have some really nice quotes

她寫道：女王喜歡晚上8點左右到敷料桌

from and Frieda Arnold who was one of her dresses at the time who said the

那時候侍女已經準備好接骨木花水給女王洗面和洗手

Queen liked to go to her dressing table around 8 o'clock in the evening when the

maids will have set out some elderflower water

那麼我們就先用些洋甘菊茶敷眼

for her to wash her face and hands and also some chamomile tea for her to bathe

her eyes. So let's start with some chamomile tea to bathe the eyes if you

哦...是不是很舒暢？感覺如何？

我相信維多利亞經歷一整天的國家事務、騎馬和散步

Chamomile is really known for being soothing and calming and

她會非常須要這個敷眼程序緩神

I'm sure Victoria would have appreciated this after a long day of

現在我們用一些接骨木花水洗臉

state affairs, horse riding and walking around Osborne

And now let's wash that face with some elderflower water

我們就繼續下一步 有點像今天的打粉底

After Victoria's had her skin prepped and cleansed

我們剛剛移動到戶外給Hollie打粉底

we'll then move on to the next step which is kind of a foundation base

因為在歷史建築內嚴禁使用任何粉塵

Now we just stepped outside to do Hollie's base because we can't use loose powder

我有一支完全乾淨的毛刷稍為作最後的修飾

in a historical building. I've got a brush with almost nothing on it just for

some touch-ups. And we've used zinc oxide now one of the strongest differences for

與上一代相比，維多利亞時代化妝的最大的進步是 不再以油性白色顏料厚塗皮膚

Victorian makeup is the move away from a really heavy white painted base and the

更重要的是停止使用以鉛為原料的白色顏料

move away from using white lead as that base.

它的優點是比較通透 又能夠滿足對淡白肌膚的渴求

white lead and it was great because it's sheer, it still gives you that slightly white finish

最重要的是與皮膚接觸都不會影響健康！

Most importantly it won't kill you - Yay! - when you wear it

We still use zinc oxide in makeup today. You'll see it most often in

我們當今的皮護產品依然有在使用氧化鋅

sunscreen products and you'll probably see that if you've ever put a high

你可以在防曬霜的成分欄找到它

factor sunscreen on your skin you can see that kind of white cast

特別是塗上防曬係數非常高的太陽油後 你可以看到那非常明顯的白塗層

Now if you could get your hands on zinc oxide brilliant if you can't get your hands on

那時候如果妳找得到氧化鋅的話就最理想

zinc oxide sometimes middle-class - working-class women might use things

當時後一些中產或勞動階層的女性買不到氧化鋅 為了漂白臉孔

like starch or maybe chalk dust to make their faces look lighter or they might

就會尋求一些替代品如澱粉或白堊粉末 （石灰，即粉筆原料）

resort to some recipes that they've seen in books or magazines.

甚至是當時書刊或雜誌上看到的偏方

We see a real rise in magazines in this period. The Industrial Revolution sees a huge

這一時代可以看到雜誌社的崛起 這是多得工業革命令許多人升格為中產

expansion of the middle-class and along with this a lot of journal sort of

這個階層養活了許多關於禮儀、美容和時裝的刊物

etiquette journals beauty fashion manuals to help people negotiate their

從這些媒體的資訊讓他們得以融入他們新的社會階層

new social position. And one of note in particular that comes from the period

其中一個那時候很值得關注的是1850年代發行的 《英格蘭女士的家政雜誌》

we're looking at - the 1850s - is the English Woman's Domestic magazine.

這雜誌由Samuel Beeton發行 他是Isabella Beeton的丈夫

This was published by Samuel Beaton who was the husband of Isabella Beaton who was

他們後來將發行過的雜誌的內容整合成 《Beeton夫人的家政全書》（聞名於剽竊他人食譜）

famous for her book of household management.

正是！所以這書的受眾完全就是中產讀者

Exactly! So this would cover it was aimed squarely at a middle class audience that

除了囊括之前提過的內容外 還會包含些政治社評、虛構小說等

would cover all of these areas and even some political commentary as well,

都是些中產維多利亞時代女士熱心的題材

and fiction, all kinds of things for middle-class Victorian women to read

但那時候不是每一個人都那麼富裕吧？

But not everyone was so prosperous at this time, were they?

伴隨工業革命而來的還有一些地區充斥的大量貧民 和惡劣衛生問題

The Industrial Revolution also caused huge amounts of poverty and squalor in some

那時結核病肆虐 維多利亞在位時每10年就有6至7萬人因此死亡

urban areas and also tuberculosis. This claimed sixty to seventy thousand lives

確實是維多利亞在位時一個很嚴重的流行病呢

但結核病卻衍生了一種美容潮流

It was a serious epidemic in Queen Victoria's reign, but also tuberculosis

發熱的紅腮、蒼白的皮膚 還有瞳孔擴張

People thought that the symptoms of tuberculosis were beautiful

這種歪曲的審美讓那時許多女性模仿這些症狀

The hectic flush cheek, a pale skin and also brightened eyes and because tuberculosis

所以她們會打上更厚的白色粉底 令自己看來更蒼白

was thought to be beautiful, women may have started to emulate some of the symptoms

而後打上更多胭脂去模仿那發燒時的腮紅

So they wore more white powder to give them that pale look, they

她們甚至會用顛茄（belladonna） 一種有毒的化學物令瞳孔擴張

might have added more rouge for the for the flush of a fever and they also might

瞳孔擴張可能是患病的徵兆 但又有人認為女人這樣看起來更有魅力

have used belladonna which is a chemical that makes your pupils dilate

我不打算用顛茄，所以你可以放心

Dilated pupils can be a sign of sickness and it also is believed to make women look

我準備用普通的滋潤眼藥水而已

所以把妳的頭稍稍往後挨 好讓我給妳滴些眼藥水

I'm not going to use belladonna, you'll be grateful to hear

I'm going to use just some good old eyedrops, so if you would pop your head

back for me let's pop some eyedrops in here and see if we can give you that

或可以說是如玻璃般剔透（笑）

這個時代的女人不會在眼睛一帶上太多化妝品

中東、北非和南亞流行的眼圈（kohl）被認為是庸俗的 而且也不值得大費那麼周章

所以傾向一些更簡單和更自然的眼睛化妝 例如在眼眉和睫毛塗上蓖麻油

Women didn't necessarily wear a lot of product around their eyes at this time

以此營造出光鮮和飽滿的視覺效果

Kohl was considered vulgar and also not worth the deception, so something simple and more

natural was often used maybe it might be castor oil on the eyebrows and the

eyelashes to give them a gloss and a shine and to help them grow longer and stronger

維多利亞女王化妝教程｜歷史的靈感｜Feat.Amber Butchart和Rebecca Butterworth。琥珀布查特和麗貝卡巴特沃斯 (Queen Victoria Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth)

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維多利亞女王化妝教程｜歷史的靈感｜Feat.Amber Butchart和Rebecca Butterworth。琥珀布查特和麗貝卡巴特沃斯 (Queen Victoria Makeup Tutorial | History Inspired | Feat. Amber Butchart and Rebecca Butterworth)

sort

subtle

apparently

period