I'm here at Osborne on the Isle of Wight to follow in the royal foosteps of Queen Victoria.

我來到懷特島的奧斯本 跟隨維多利亞女王的皇家隊伍

Osborne was the holiday home for the Queen and her family through much of the 19th century

在19世紀的大部分時間 奧斯本是女王和其皇室成員的度假屋

and today it's cared for by English Heritage.

而今天這裡由英格蘭遺產管理

Victoria retreated here away from the prying eyes of the public but today we have a special invitation

以前維多利亞會來到這裡避開民眾的窺探 但今天我們有一個特別的邀請

So join us as we recreate another history inspired look and find out more about

那麼跟隨我們去見證又一個受到歷史啟發的妝容

the Queen, her home and the country she ruled over.

和探索更多關於女王在這裡的生活和她在位時的英國

Hello!

你好！

Hey Amber, how's it going?

嗨Amber，最近如何？

Good thanks. So today, Queen Victoria. Now she reigned from 1837 to 1901 and after Queen Elizabeth II

非常感謝。所以今天的主題：維多利亞女王

she's actually our longest reigning monarch to date.

自1837至1901年她是繼伊利沙伯二世之後 迄今為止在位最長的執政君主

We're here in the glorious surroundings of Osbourne her holiday home so Rebecca

這輝煌的奧斯本正是她的度假屋

what look are you going to do for us today?

那麼Rebecca妳今天有什麼計劃呢？

On our beautiful model, Hollie, I'm going to be creating a Queen Victoria inspired makeup look.

在我們漂亮的模特兒Hollie身上 我會塑造一個受維多利亞女王啟發的化妝妝容

You can see from Victoria's various portraits that her look was very much a fair but not excessively white,

你可以從維多利亞的各個肖像中看到 她的皮膚偏白但又不至於過份的雪白

skin a little flush of color in the cheeks and very neat well groomed hair

臉頰透出一些紅暈，頭髮又整齊地梳理

So it's kind of the, it's the ultimate no makeup makeup tutorial that we're going to do today

所以這次我們會做的是 有點像最近流行的偽素顏化妝教學

Lovely!

太美了！

There's a quote going round that Victoria herself thought that makeup was vulgar

有一個圍繞維多利亞的摘引是 她認為化妝是庸俗的

Now while we don't know the while we don't know the source of that quote what we do know is

雖然我們無法查證這句話的來源

in the Victorian era makeup became much less obvious

但我們知道維多利亞時代傾向避免濃妝豔抹 化妝變得越來越隱晦

It became much more subtle

那麼妳要創造的妝容是她在哪個場合會用上？

And so where would she have worn a look like the one you're going to create?

好吧，讓我們想像一下Hollie正準備給畫師為她繪畫肖像

Well, let's imagine that Holly is going to be

所以她要打扮得好優雅

getting ready to have her portrait painted so that she needs to look very elegant

那麼開始我們化妝教學的第一步： 皮膚護理和打底

So let's start with the first part of our makeup tutorial and we'll talk

在奧斯本如果你上樓上女王的更衣室

skin care and skin prep.

你可以看到她的敷料桌子和洗手台

Here at Osborne if you go upstairs to Queen Victoria's

我很好奇那些壺子裡面曾經盛載過什麼

Dressing Room you can see her dressing table and her wash stand and I'm so

雖然查探女王用過的護膚化妝物料很棘手

curious I really want to know what's in all those little pots. It's tricky to

幸好我們從她的梳妝侍女Frieda Arnold 得到一些很有參考價值的記錄

know what Victoria wore on her face, but we do have some really nice quotes

她寫道：女王喜歡晚上8點左右到敷料桌

from and Frieda Arnold who was one of her dresses at the time who said the

那時候侍女已經準備好接骨木花水給女王洗面和洗手

Queen liked to go to her dressing table around 8 o'clock in the evening when the

還有就是些洋甘菊茶供她敷眼

maids will have set out some elderflower water

那麼我們就先用些洋甘菊茶敷眼

for her to wash her face and hands and also some chamomile tea for her to bathe

Hollie妳將雙眼緊閉

her eyes. So let's start with some chamomile tea to bathe the eyes if you

哦...是不是很舒暢？感覺如何？

keep your eyes closed for me Hollie.

是，很舒服

Is that soothing? How does it feel?

洋甘菊是以舒緩神經而聞名

Yeah, it's lovely.

我相信維多利亞經歷一整天的國家事務、騎馬和散步

Chamomile is really known for being soothing and calming and

她會非常須要這個敷眼程序緩神

I'm sure Victoria would have appreciated this after a long day of

現在我們用一些接骨木花水洗臉

state affairs, horse riding and walking around Osborne

當維多利亞完成這個潔面程序

And now let's wash that face with some elderflower water

我們就繼續下一步 有點像今天的打粉底

After Victoria's had her skin prepped and cleansed

我們剛剛移動到戶外給Hollie打粉底

we'll then move on to the next step which is kind of a foundation base

因為在歷史建築內嚴禁使用任何粉塵

Now we just stepped outside to do Hollie's base because we can't use loose powder

我有一支完全乾淨的毛刷稍為作最後的修飾

in a historical building. I've got a brush with almost nothing on it just for

我用的是氧化鋅

some touch-ups. And we've used zinc oxide now one of the strongest differences for

與上一代相比，維多利亞時代化妝的最大的進步是 不再以油性白色顏料厚塗皮膚

Victorian makeup is the move away from a really heavy white painted base and the

更重要的是停止使用以鉛為原料的白色顏料

move away from using white lead as that base.

這時起氧化鋅取代了鉛白

Zinc oxide came in and replaced

它的優點是比較通透 又能夠滿足對淡白肌膚的渴求

white lead and it was great because it's sheer, it still gives you that slightly white finish

最重要的是與皮膚接觸都不會影響健康！

Most importantly it won't kill you - Yay! - when you wear it

耶！

which is brilliant

很棒吧！

We still use zinc oxide in makeup today. You'll see it most often in

我們當今的皮護產品依然有在使用氧化鋅

sunscreen products and you'll probably see that if you've ever put a high

你可以在防曬霜的成分欄找到它

factor sunscreen on your skin you can see that kind of white cast

特別是塗上防曬係數非常高的太陽油後 你可以看到那非常明顯的白塗層

Oh that sort of chalky nature?

哦，像那種白堊性質？

Yeah.

對

Now if you could get your hands on zinc oxide brilliant if you can't get your hands on

那時候如果妳找得到氧化鋅的話就最理想

zinc oxide sometimes middle-class - working-class women might use things

當時後一些中產或勞動階層的女性買不到氧化鋅 為了漂白臉孔

like starch or maybe chalk dust to make their faces look lighter or they might

就會尋求一些替代品如澱粉或白堊粉末 （石灰，即粉筆原料）

resort to some recipes that they've seen in books or magazines.

甚至是當時書刊或雜誌上看到的偏方

We see a real rise in magazines in this period. The Industrial Revolution sees a huge

這一時代可以看到雜誌社的崛起 這是多得工業革命令許多人升格為中產

expansion of the middle-class and along with this a lot of journal sort of

這個階層養活了許多關於禮儀、美容和時裝的刊物

etiquette journals beauty fashion manuals to help people negotiate their

從這些媒體的資訊讓他們得以融入他們新的社會階層

new social position. And one of note in particular that comes from the period

其中一個那時候很值得關注的是1850年代發行的 《英格蘭女士的家政雜誌》

we're looking at - the 1850s - is the English Woman's Domestic magazine.

這雜誌由Samuel Beeton發行 他是Isabella Beeton的丈夫

This was published by Samuel Beaton who was the husband of Isabella Beaton who was

他們後來將發行過的雜誌的內容整合成 《Beeton夫人的家政全書》（聞名於剽竊他人食譜）

famous for her book of household management.

對呢！Beeton夫人！

Of course, Mrs Beeton!

正是！所以這書的受眾完全就是中產讀者

Exactly! So this would cover it was aimed squarely at a middle class audience that

除了囊括之前提過的內容外 還會包含些政治社評、虛構小說等

would cover all of these areas and even some political commentary as well,

都是些中產維多利亞時代女士熱心的題材

and fiction, all kinds of things for middle-class Victorian women to read

但那時候不是每一個人都那麼富裕吧？

But not everyone was so prosperous at this time, were they?

肯定不是

No definitely not

伴隨工業革命而來的還有一些地區充斥的大量貧民 和惡劣衛生問題

The Industrial Revolution also caused huge amounts of poverty and squalor in some

那時結核病肆虐 維多利亞在位時每10年就有6至7萬人因此死亡

urban areas and also tuberculosis. This claimed sixty to seventy thousand lives

確實是維多利亞在位時一個很嚴重的流行病呢

in each decade of Victoria's reign

但結核病卻衍生了一種美容潮流

It was a serious epidemic in Queen Victoria's reign, but also tuberculosis

許多人認為結核的病徵很美

formed kind of a beauty movement

發熱的紅腮、蒼白的皮膚 還有瞳孔擴張

People thought that the symptoms of tuberculosis were beautiful

這種歪曲的審美讓那時許多女性模仿這些症狀

The hectic flush cheek, a pale skin and also brightened eyes and because tuberculosis

所以她們會打上更厚的白色粉底 令自己看來更蒼白

was thought to be beautiful, women may have started to emulate some of the symptoms

而後打上更多胭脂去模仿那發燒時的腮紅

So they wore more white powder to give them that pale look, they

她們甚至會用顛茄（belladonna） 一種有毒的化學物令瞳孔擴張

might have added more rouge for the for the flush of a fever and they also might

瞳孔擴張可能是患病的徵兆 但又有人認為女人這樣看起來更有魅力

have used belladonna which is a chemical that makes your pupils dilate

我不打算用顛茄，所以你可以放心

Dilated pupils can be a sign of sickness and it also is believed to make women look

我準備用普通的滋潤眼藥水而已

more attractive

所以把妳的頭稍稍往後挨 好讓我給妳滴些眼藥水

I'm not going to use belladonna, you'll be grateful to hear

看看能否營造那像發病的美感

I'm going to use just some good old eyedrops, so if you would pop your head

差不多好了

back for me let's pop some eyedrops in here and see if we can give you that

真閃亮呢

consumptive chic

或可以說是如玻璃般剔透（笑）

There we go

這個時代的女人不會在眼睛一帶上太多化妝品

So shiny

中東、北非和南亞流行的眼圈（kohl）被認為是庸俗的 而且也不值得大費那麼周章

One might almost say glassy

所以傾向一些更簡單和更自然的眼睛化妝 例如在眼眉和睫毛塗上蓖麻油

Women didn't necessarily wear a lot of product around their eyes at this time

以此營造出光鮮和飽滿的視覺效果

Kohl was considered vulgar and also not worth the deception, so something simple and more

輪到顴骨腮紅

natural was often used maybe it might be castor oil on the eyebrows and the

我們會用到老朋友胭脂

eyelashes to give them a gloss and a shine and to help them grow longer and stronger

胭脂經歷過數百年的演變

We're now onto the cheeks stage of our makeup and I'm going to be using

而維多利亞時代的胭脂也有好幾過不同種類 雖然這時胭脂依然是打得比較隱晦

our good old friend rouge

而這次用到的是液態胭脂

Now rouge has been around in many forms for hundreds of years and in the Victorian era

而原料可以是蔬菜色素如紅彩頭

there were quite a few different forms of rouge even though it was very subtly used

又或者是將昆蟲屍體如紅色甲蟲研磨後混合酒精和水 得出所謂的「胭脂紅」（carmine）

The version that I'm going to use is a liquid rouge and this was often made using

而我看過一個資料建議以手帕上液態胭脂

either vegetable color maybe

我以前沒有這樣試過

beetroot or possibly carmine which is derived from cochineal beetles mixed with

所以這次就看看手拍上胭脂的效果

alcohol and water and I read one source that suggests that you apply the liquid rouge

看上來還不差！

with a hankerchief. I've never never done this before so let's see how

雖然我們無法得知維多利亞本人有沒有用過胭脂

hankerchief application works

但她有好幾次在日記中特地提及過 她看到其他人臉上上了點胭脂

It's not bad!

而她覺得這樣令他們面色更好看

Now while we don't know whether Victoria herself wore rouge, she does make a couple of mentions

所以可以合理推測她不太反對化妝

to it in her diary, specifically other people wearing it

口紅在這個時代也是塗得非常樸素

and mentioning that they look better for wearing a little bit of rouge

有些人說粉紅嘴唇是給 端莊地生活和出外活動的人的獎勵

So maybe she wasn't too against makeup

我們會用玫瑰粉紅的唇膏

Lips are really natural in this era. Some people said that rosy lips were the

我們可以找到許多自製唇膏的配方

reward of temperate living and exercise outdoors. We're gonna use a rose-tinted lip salve

但化妝品自這個時代起開始在工廠被大規模生產

There were loads of recipes for how to create your own lip salves

而第一個在零售市場發售的管型唇膏 就是19世界末出現的

but also this was the era where makeup started to be mass-produced and the

大規模生產線的確是影響了這個時代的時尚潮流呢

first commercially available lipstick in a tube was available towards the end of

1850年代以數個鋼環製成的鳥籠狀「裙襯」（crinoline）

the 19th century

正因為大規模生產方式 令鳥籠裙襯被稱為第一個被工業化的時裝

Mass-production was really impacting fashion at this time as well

有報導說1860年初每週有7分之1的 謝菲爾德鋼材都被拿來生產鳥籠裙襯

In the 1850s the cage crinoline is developed using rings of steel and this

所以可以想像鳥籠裙襯在當時是非常受歡迎

is called the first industrial fashion because of the way it was manufactured

維多利亞女王甚至僅僅一次破戒穿上了鳥籠裙襯

And it said that by the early 1860s apparently one seventh of the weekly output of

因為那天天氣真的太熱了 讓人無法忍受穿著由許多層襯裙（petticoat）重疊

steel in Sheffield actually went towards making these crinolines

所營造的淑女下半身輪廓

So it was a very you know huge fashion at this time. Queen Victoria apparently

現在既然已經完成了維多利亞女王面部的妝容

even succumbed to the cage crinoline just once when it was really, really hot

那麼下一步就是維多利亞女王一個很標誌性的外型 那就是她的髮型

too hot to wear her layers and layers and layers of petticoats that she

維多利亞在早上剛起床後 會由侍女簡單地將頭髮捲起紮好

otherwise would have warden to create the same silhouettes.

然後才由她專用的髮型師為她梳理她經典的髮型

Now we've got our Queen Victoria inspired face, let's move on to something that's very iconic for

她的僕從中有最多兩個髮型師每日隨時候命

Queen Victoria and that was her hair and her hairstyles. Now Victoria would have

而她那個整齊地編織的低髮髻髮型反應了 維多利亞時代人民對樸素和簡約的感性追求

her hair done by a maid in the morning just into a simple twist and then her

同時鬆散不經梳理的頭髮則寓意 對道德禮節不夠拘謹

iconic hairstyle was created by her hairdressers. She had up to two

對呢，維多利亞女王和艾伯特親王努力將自己塑造成 非常可敬的皇室夫妻

hairdressers on retainer any one time that would do her hair daily and her

所以維多利亞是絕不會在公開場合以鬆散頭髮示人

very neat, plaited, low bun style reflects that Victorian sensibility of modesty

但在這位處海邊的奧斯本都是個很重要的課題

and simplicity, but also that having loose hair meant

因為在海濱很自然地會以鬆散頭髮過活

that you might also have loose morals

同時這裡亦是一個放縱自我的地方

Ah yes Victoria and Albert styled

海濱生活甚至會影響你選擇的服裝

themselves as a very respectable couple so no loose hair to be seen on Victoria

你會專誠為了在海濱生活而帶上特定的服裝

But it is quite relevant for our beachside setting here at Osborne because the

這些都會比在城中心裡穿著的衣裳更光怪陸離

seaside was one of the places where you might actually come across loose hair

可能是條紋或海員的衣著風格

and some of ideas of loose morality that go alongside that.

就如你這裡所見 （指Amber她自己）

The seaside starts to impact your wardrobe as well

那麼當妳們繼續整理頭髮 我現在去探索一下關於維多利亞的統治

You would pack specific seaside dresses for your

稍後再見

trip and these would be a bit more outlandish than fashions that you might

稍後見

wear in the city centre so maybe striped or maybe with a sort of a nautical touch

米高這裡真的很有度假風情 你可以告訴我關於奧斯本的事蹟嗎？

as you can see here

奧斯本是維多利亞和奧伯特剛結婚後 修建的私人起居房子

Now while you work on the hair, I am going to go and find out much more about

所以這像許多新婚夫婦的夢想般

Victoria's reign, so I'll see you guys later

他們想有個真正屬於自己的天地 而不是國營住所

See you later

一個從倫敦和溫莎宮廷生活的壓力中 釋放自我的私人空間

Michael this is quite the holiday home what can you tell me about Osborne?

維多利亞是以非常嚴格的道德標準而聞名的君主

Well, Osborne was built by Victoria and Albert as a private family home they had recently

她的成長歷程是如何影響她的？

got married so like any newly married couple I guess

她的成長受到非常嚴厲的教養 她由親生母親培育長大

they wanted a place of their own not a state residence this was a private

而她的父親在她未足一歲就逝世

family home somewhere where they could escape to from the pressures of court

她的母親對前朝喬治王時代的鬆散道德觀非常反感

life in London and Windsor.

維多利亞女王記憶中的童年是非常憂鬱和孤獨

Victoria is known as a ruler who had a very strict moral code

所以她的成長一定影響了 她對待自己家族和孩子的方式吧

How did her upbringing impact that?

是的，我覺得因為她從來沒有在一個普通家庭中生活

She had quite a strict upbringing. She was brought up by her mother, her father had

她自己反過來反抗她的兒童時代

died when she was just you know not even a year old and her mother was really

當她和艾伯特結婚、生了孩子後 他們想創造一個田園般的愉快家庭

reacting I suppose against the loose morals of the previous Georgian period

這是維多利亞或艾伯特兒時所無法經歷的

and Queen Victoria remembered her childhood as a rather melancholy affair

眾所周知維多利亞統治的時期是個大變革時期

really, a rather lonely affair.

特別是工業革命 這個對全球有什麼影響呢？

And so that must have also influenced the way

我認為工業革命為技術帶來了巨大變革 那時誕生了新的前景

that she felt about family and children as well if she was brought up on her own?

那時大家可以往國外看到更多事物和對外溝通

Yes, I mean I think because she didn't really have much of a normal family life

亦因此在維多利亞在位時大英帝國的版圖亦擴張了

herself she in turn reacted against this and when she married Albert and they had

這亦讓我們可以站在這個印度風格裝橫的房間裡閒談

children of their own they wanted to create this sort of idyllic happy family

因為印度成為了維多利亞的帝國一個很重要的核心

life something that neither Victoria or Albert had really had themselves as children

因此她在1870年加冕為印度皇后

Victoria's reign is known as a huge period of change especially

維多利亞在奧斯本是穿著什麼服飾？

with the Industrial Revolution. What are the global ramifications of this?

她在這裡穿的都頗為輕便的

I think the technological changes were huge. There was an outlook, it was possible to

奧斯本作為一個私人起居所 所以沒有如其他地方要求的體制化衣著要求

look outward much more and communicate globally and of course this led to the

例如在這裡她不用戴皇冠和頭飾

building up of a huge empire during Victoria's reign and it's appropriate

所以都是些寬鬆的夏季裙子、薄紗和輕絲綢之類

that we're standing in this room talking at the moment, this fabulous Indian interior

你這裡有一些維多利亞穿著過的衣物吧

because India became a part of a very important central part of

你可以告訴我那些衣物的情況？

Victoria's Empire so much so that she became Empress of India in the 1870s

我們保有一件她著過的睡衣 押有她的字母「V R」和上面一個皇冠圖案

What kind clothes with Victoria have worn here at Osborne?

哇！我都想有個印有自己名字的睡衣

The kind of clothes she wore were comparatively relaxed, Osborne

妳該有！妳該有！

being a family home there wasn't this formality of dress here that there would

我們還有幾雙白色和黑色的長襪

have been elsewhere, no crowns and tiaras for instance. So floaty summer dresses,

它們上面同樣印有女王的名字首字母

muslins, light silks that sort of thing

黑色那雙我認為是維多利亞女王守寡時最常穿的

And you have some items of clothing here

非常感謝你米高 我要回去看看我們這邊的維多利亞是否已經準備好

that Victoria actually wore. What can you tell me about them?

那不送了

We've got a night dress that we know that she wore. It's monogrammed with her V R with a crown on the top

哇噢！Hollie妳看來太動人了！ Rebecca妳做得太棒了！

Wow! It's my dream to have monogrammed pyjamas

這轉變太驚人了 我愛死者造型了，太完美了

You must! You must!

這蕾絲真美，維多利亞本人就是喜愛蕾絲 她收集了許多古式蕾絲

We've also got a couple of pairs of stockings a white pair and a black pair

並訂造了德文生產的漢寧頓蕾絲用在她的婚紗上

both of which have got again the Queen's initials on the top. The black pair were

她在好幾次其他場合中再穿著這裙子

probably morning stockings I think I mean famously Queen Victoria spent most

她亦喜歡紫丁香 所以妳看來十足是個年輕時的維多利亞，太完美了

of her later years as a widow

這裙子真的很震撼吧

Thanks so much Michael I'm gonna go and see how

對極！還有這髮型也是美極了

our Victoria is coming together

這些花很可愛，它們是出自哪裡？

Pleasure

我也是愛死這些花朵