years alongside the various Avis Crocombes. I wore clothing just like that of Mrs Crocombe

多年來我在奧德莉莊園與許多扮演過 Avis Crocombe的古裝演員一齊共事

in the Victorian Way videos but that clothing was in itself modelled on the very clothing

在「維多利亞烹飪」的節目中 我和她們一樣穿著同款的服飾上鏡

that people at the time would have worn and that's what we're going to look at today.

為了讓觀眾投入到我們的演出中 那些服裝盡量忠於歷史以反映那個時代的人民衣著

Let's start with the basics: underwear. The first thing that Mrs Crocombe would have put

而這正是這次節目的主題

on in the morning were her drawers and then her stockings which were held up with garters.

讓我們從基本開始：內衣

Elastic of course hadn't yet been invented. Then Mrs Crocombe would have put her boots

Crocombe女士早上起床最先會穿上的是褌（長內褲）

on because it's very very hard to put your boots on after you've put your corset on,

接著是由吊襪帶固定的長襪 因為在那個時代橡筋還未面世

trust me! So here were have boots, and then this which is called a chemise. It essentially

然後Crocombe女士會穿上她的短靴 因為當穿上緊身胸衣後才穿鞋會很麻煩，我向你保證

is a sort of night shirt affair, made out of linen which was very very absorbent so

靴子穿好了，接著輪到這件內襯裙（chemise） 基本上就是長及大腿的內衣

that all the sweats and all of the various bodily fluids that were inevitably being pumped

它由亞麻布縫製因此非常能吸濕

out in the heat of the kitchen would be absorbed by the linen. It was washable, it would take

如此整天在熱廚房裡忙碌時排除的汗水和其他體液 都能被這布料迅速吸收

a lot of hard punishment as well. Then on top of the chemise, as you can see, Mrs Crocombe's

這內衣很耐洗而且非常耐用

corset, the fundamental foundation garment of the Victorian woman. The corset's construction

穿在內襯裙上面的就如你所見是這 緊身胸衣（corset）

for Mrs Crocombe is fairly simple. If Mrs Crocombe had been Lady Crocombe, or Lady Braybrooke

這是維多利亞時代女性最標誌的衣物

for example, her corset would have changed much much more throughout the decades of the

Crocombe女士的緊身胸衣的結構會頗為簡單 除非她是上流的「Crocombe夫人」或Braybrooke夫人

Victorian era, following fashion. Those people like Mrs Crocombe who were below stairs though

她的緊身胸衣就會追隨維多利亞時裝潮流 數十年間更換不同款式

tended not to shift their figure in line with prevailing fashion quite so much. Down here

但是像Crocombe女士般在大場面以下的地方工作的人

at the front you have a thing called a busk which tends to be of metal and is very very

不怎麼會追逐當前潮流改變衣著風格

tough. This gives you this nice smooth figure at the front, and then you've got whale bone

胸衣的前方正中間有一對鈕扣條（busk） 一般是金屬制所以非常堅固

all the way around the sides. You can buy plastic substitutes for whale bone, and that's

這樣才能維持女性優雅的正前曲線

what this one is constructed with. If we turn it round briefly you can see the way it works.

然後圍繞身軀排列的「鯨骨」 你可以買到塑膠替代品，現在展示這件就是用塑膠骨架

There is a set of laces up the back, these stay laced all the time. And then at the front

我們很快轉到背面看看它的構造

you've got these ties, these fasteners. The big advantage of an arrangement like this

這是一排繫帶，它們就這樣一直繫上不會再解開

is that a woman like Mrs Crocombe could have done up her own corset. Naturally Mrs Crocombe

然後繞到正面將繫帶綁好 這樣做的好處是

didn't have anyone to help her dress but she could have got into this very quickly and

像Crocombe女士這樣的勞動階層 都可以簡單地自己穿上胸衣

easily by herself. Next up we need to add some bulk. The Victorian figure in the 1880s

很明顯她不會有僕人協助她穿衣服 但這樣的設計讓她很快和方便地自行穿衣

was one which had quite a wide hemline, again with working class women the basic figure

下一步我們會處理下半身的輪廓

didn't change that much throughout a lot of the Victorian period. Crinolines for example

1880年代的維多利亞流行的 裙子底邊（hemline）是頗闊的

which came in for the upper classes in the 1850s which were big wire cages, were often

但如前所述勞動階層女性的基本服飾風格 沒有在維多利亞時代經歷太頻密的轉變

forbidden for use in the kitchens. Mistresses of grand houses didn't want their cooks looking

例如1850年代面世、上流用的鳥籠裙襯（crinoline） 幾乎都被禁止在廚房裡穿著

like they did. Some women wore many petticoats perhaps starched or with lots of pleats. This

大宅的夫人當然不喜歡自己的僕人穿成像自己的模樣

is a very practical alternative. Our Mrs Crocombe does have to operate in the modern world and

所以一些女士就會穿上許多層重疊的 襯裙（petticoat），可能用澱粉漿加工固定皺褶

get changed very quickly and do it all by herself often under stressful circumstances,

這是一個非常實在的衣著方式

so this is the kind of permissible cheat which women at the time possibly would have used

我們這裡的古裝演員要在短時間內獨個兒裝扮好 而且很多時都要面對一些突發的情況

and certainly is very very useful when you're interpreting history and food for the public.

所以某程度上這是一個可以接受的茅招 而那個時代的女性都很可能是這麼辦

You'll note that nearly everything ties up. It's a very practical solution. Buttons burst,

而對我們在遊客面前重演歷史生活的古裝演員來說 這襯裙都是幫上了大忙

hooks come undone, but a tie like that is very very secure, will stay done up and is

你大概注意到幾乎所有衣著都是用帶子繫好 這是一個非常有用的手段

very easy to do up as well. And more importantly perhaps, at the end of a 14 hour work day

鈕扣會爆開、鉤扣會鬆開 但這樣子的活結是非常紮實的，而且處理簡單

it's very easy to just let it all drop to the floor, spring open your corset and breathe

更重要的是例如一天工作了14小時後 你只要將活結拉開就能立刻鬆衣

a sigh of relief as you crawl into bed. Once this very simple petticoat is on it's time

讓衣物直接掉落地上，解開胸衣 然後爬上床鬆一口氣

to put the outer layer on: the gown. In houses like this there were not in the 1880s necessarily

當這簡單的襯裙綁好就可以穿上外層衣物：連身裙

uniforms for staff apart from those that appeared in front of guests: housemaids, butlers and

在這種1880年代的大宅不一定會有員工制服

livery for the footmen. Below stairs in areas like this though where servants were not seen

除非是在客人面前現身的女傭、管家和隨從

it was much more common to have something like a print that perhaps the lady of the

工作間的員工因為不會被客人看得見

house would give to her servants at Christmas as their Christmas gift to make into their

更傾向用同一式的布料 可能是夫人聖誕節時送給員工的禮物

gowns. We know that sometimes zones were colour-coded as well. The reason for this was not just

來自行縫製裙子

because it looked pretty, but also so that the senior servants, the butler, the housekeeper

我們知道有時不同部門的員工服裝會指定一個顏色 不單是這樣比較好看

or Mrs Crocombe the cook, could look out of their window and immediately identify any

這能方便上級員工，例如管家、女主管 和主廚Crocombe女士

member of staff who was where they shouldn't be. This gown does up with a mixture of the

只要往窗外一望就能發現是否有員工 去了不屬於自己部門的地方

Victorian favourite, the hook and eye, and buttons. Because Mrs Crocombe was the cook,

這裙子還原了維多利亞時代的名物 鉤扣和鈕扣

and therefore of rather higher status than her maids, it also has a level of detail that

因為Crocombe女士是主廚 而地位上比她的廚房女傭高

you might not find if you were to look at the maids' gowns. For example, she has this

所以這裙子有數個修飾 是不會出現在女傭的裙子上

rather sweet lace collar which could be removed and washed separately. Very very important

例如這個可愛的蕾絲領口

to always think about the practicality of washing. One of the biggest bugbears in women's

這是可以被拆下來獨立洗滌

fashion today is that things don't have pockets. Well, Mrs Crocombe being a woman of some means

洗滌是否方便也是一個非常重要的設計考慮

has put a pocket in her dress. She might use it for example to keep her spectacles in.

現代女性時裝的一個通病是缺乏有用的口袋

Finally of course Mrs Crocombe always wears a cap, as indeed did many other women. Certainly

Crocombe女士作為一個能幹的女人在裙子弄了個口袋

lower status women would always tie their hair up. Her hair which would have been relatively

她可以用這個來收起她的眼鏡

long would have been centre-parted, taken back behind her ears and then tied in a bun

最後Crocombe女士會像其他女人總是會戴上帽子

at the back of her head. That bun was very important as it meant that the cap would stay

非上流女性總是將頭髮束起

on with judicious use of a hairpin. Once more, the number of pleats on the cap reflects Mrs

她的頭髮應該是頗長、中間分界 捲到耳朵後再紮成一個髻

Crocombe's status as the cook. If you were to look at one of the lower maids, they probably

那個髮髻之所以重要是可以 配合髮簪來固定帽子

wouldn't have quite as many pleats, certainly not as carefully sewn and not as well starched.

另外帽子邊緣的皺褶數量反映了 Crocombe女士作為主廚的地位

The final thing Mrs Crocombe needs is something all cooks keep in their belts at all times

如果你將之與其他地位較低的女傭相比

in the kitchen: a handy cloth, again made of absorbent linen and again very washable.

她們的帽子大概沒有那麼多皺褶 肯定不會裁剪得太精細和沒有經過澱粉好好加工

It's absolutely vital in a 19th century kitchen like this because these cloths not only act

最後Crocombe女士像所有廚師都需要一件隨身工具 那就是一條抹布

as general wiper-uppers and hand towels, but also as oven gloves. It's doubly vital when

這條也是由非常吸濕的亞麻布製 也是非常耐洗

working as our Mrs Crocombe does in an environment which is conserved like this. Spills of red

在19世紀的廚房這是至關重要

wine on the floor or things that are inappropriate on surfaces need to be wiped up as quickly

因為這塊布不但可以用來抹污跡和抹手 也可以充當隔熱手套

as possible, so from a practical point of view a cloth like this is vital because it

而且我們現代的Crocombe女士在這文物古蹟中

means that smears of choc-ices on furniture and cherries up the wall can be removed as

當遇上例如灑到地上的紅酒或其他牆面上的污跡 都能即時處理掉

soon as possible so that we can continue to preserve this Victorian kitchen for future

所以從現實角度來看這抹布就是不可或缺

generations. Excellent. Mrs Crocombe is dressed and ready to go!

這樣甚至是家私上的朱古力和 牆上的車厘子都可以立馬處理