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  • I'm Dr Annie Gray, I'm a food historian but I also worked here at Audley End for many

    我是飲食歷史學家Annie Gray博士

  • years alongside the various Avis Crocombes. I wore clothing just like that of Mrs Crocombe

    多年來我在奧德莉莊園與許多扮演過 Avis Crocombe的古裝演員一齊共事

  • in the Victorian Way videos but that clothing was in itself modelled on the very clothing

    在「維多利亞烹飪」的節目中 我和她們一樣穿著同款的服飾上鏡

  • that people at the time would have worn and that's what we're going to look at today.

    為了讓觀眾投入到我們的演出中 那些服裝盡量忠於歷史以反映那個時代的人民衣著

  • Let's start with the basics: underwear. The first thing that Mrs Crocombe would have put

    而這正是這次節目的主題

  • on in the morning were her drawers and then her stockings which were held up with garters.

    讓我們從基本開始:內衣

  • Elastic of course hadn't yet been invented. Then Mrs Crocombe would have put her boots

    Crocombe女士早上起床最先會穿上的是褌(長內褲)

  • on because it's very very hard to put your boots on after you've put your corset on,

    接著是由吊襪帶固定的長襪 因為在那個時代橡筋還未面世

  • trust me! So here were have boots, and then this which is called a chemise. It essentially

    然後Crocombe女士會穿上她的短靴 因為當穿上緊身胸衣後才穿鞋會很麻煩,我向你保證

  • is a sort of night shirt affair, made out of linen which was very very absorbent so

    靴子穿好了,接著輪到這件內襯裙(chemise) 基本上就是長及大腿的內衣

  • that all the sweats and all of the various bodily fluids that were inevitably being pumped

    它由亞麻布縫製因此非常能吸濕

  • out in the heat of the kitchen would be absorbed by the linen. It was washable, it would take

    如此整天在熱廚房裡忙碌時排除的汗水和其他體液 都能被這布料迅速吸收

  • a lot of hard punishment as well. Then on top of the chemise, as you can see, Mrs Crocombe's

    這內衣很耐洗而且非常耐用

  • corset, the fundamental foundation garment of the Victorian woman. The corset's construction

    穿在內襯裙上面的就如你所見是這 緊身胸衣(corset)

  • for Mrs Crocombe is fairly simple. If Mrs Crocombe had been Lady Crocombe, or Lady Braybrooke

    這是維多利亞時代女性最標誌的衣物

  • for example, her corset would have changed much much more throughout the decades of the

    Crocombe女士的緊身胸衣的結構會頗為簡單 除非她是上流的「Crocombe夫人」或Braybrooke夫人

  • Victorian era, following fashion. Those people like Mrs Crocombe who were below stairs though

    她的緊身胸衣就會追隨維多利亞時裝潮流 數十年間更換不同款式

  • tended not to shift their figure in line with prevailing fashion quite so much. Down here

    但是像Crocombe女士般在大場面以下的地方工作的人

  • at the front you have a thing called a busk which tends to be of metal and is very very

    不怎麼會追逐當前潮流改變衣著風格

  • tough. This gives you this nice smooth figure at the front, and then you've got whale bone

    胸衣的前方正中間有一對鈕扣條(busk) 一般是金屬制所以非常堅固

  • all the way around the sides. You can buy plastic substitutes for whale bone, and that's

    這樣才能維持女性優雅的正前曲線

  • what this one is constructed with. If we turn it round briefly you can see the way it works.

    然後圍繞身軀排列的「鯨骨」 你可以買到塑膠替代品,現在展示這件就是用塑膠骨架

  • There is a set of laces up the back, these stay laced all the time. And then at the front

    我們很快轉到背面看看它的構造

  • you've got these ties, these fasteners. The big advantage of an arrangement like this

    這是一排繫帶,它們就這樣一直繫上不會再解開

  • is that a woman like Mrs Crocombe could have done up her own corset. Naturally Mrs Crocombe

    然後繞到正面將繫帶綁好 這樣做的好處是

  • didn't have anyone to help her dress but she could have got into this very quickly and

    像Crocombe女士這樣的勞動階層 都可以簡單地自己穿上胸衣

  • easily by herself. Next up we need to add some bulk. The Victorian figure in the 1880s

    很明顯她不會有僕人協助她穿衣服 但這樣的設計讓她很快和方便地自行穿衣

  • was one which had quite a wide hemline, again with working class women the basic figure

    下一步我們會處理下半身的輪廓

  • didn't change that much throughout a lot of the Victorian period. Crinolines for example

    1880年代的維多利亞流行的 裙子底邊(hemline)是頗闊的

  • which came in for the upper classes in the 1850s which were big wire cages, were often

    但如前所述勞動階層女性的基本服飾風格 沒有在維多利亞時代經歷太頻密的轉變

  • forbidden for use in the kitchens. Mistresses of grand houses didn't want their cooks looking

    例如1850年代面世、上流用的鳥籠裙襯(crinoline) 幾乎都被禁止在廚房裡穿著

  • like they did. Some women wore many petticoats perhaps starched or with lots of pleats. This

    大宅的夫人當然不喜歡自己的僕人穿成像自己的模樣

  • is a very practical alternative. Our Mrs Crocombe does have to operate in the modern world and

    所以一些女士就會穿上許多層重疊的 襯裙(petticoat),可能用澱粉漿加工固定皺褶

  • get changed very quickly and do it all by herself often under stressful circumstances,

    這是一個非常實在的衣著方式

  • so this is the kind of permissible cheat which women at the time possibly would have used

    我們這裡的古裝演員要在短時間內獨個兒裝扮好 而且很多時都要面對一些突發的情況

  • and certainly is very very useful when you're interpreting history and food for the public.

    所以某程度上這是一個可以接受的茅招 而那個時代的女性都很可能是這麼辦

  • You'll note that nearly everything ties up. It's a very practical solution. Buttons burst,

    而對我們在遊客面前重演歷史生活的古裝演員來說 這襯裙都是幫上了大忙

  • hooks come undone, but a tie like that is very very secure, will stay done up and is

    你大概注意到幾乎所有衣著都是用帶子繫好 這是一個非常有用的手段

  • very easy to do up as well. And more importantly perhaps, at the end of a 14 hour work day

    鈕扣會爆開、鉤扣會鬆開 但這樣子的活結是非常紮實的,而且處理簡單

  • it's very easy to just let it all drop to the floor, spring open your corset and breathe

    更重要的是例如一天工作了14小時後 你只要將活結拉開就能立刻鬆衣

  • a sigh of relief as you crawl into bed. Once this very simple petticoat is on it's time

    讓衣物直接掉落地上,解開胸衣 然後爬上床鬆一口氣

  • to put the outer layer on: the gown. In houses like this there were not in the 1880s necessarily

    當這簡單的襯裙綁好就可以穿上外層衣物:連身裙

  • uniforms for staff apart from those that appeared in front of guests: housemaids, butlers and

    在這種1880年代的大宅不一定會有員工制服

  • livery for the footmen. Below stairs in areas like this though where servants were not seen

    除非是在客人面前現身的女傭、管家和隨從

  • it was much more common to have something like a print that perhaps the lady of the

    工作間的員工因為不會被客人看得見

  • house would give to her servants at Christmas as their Christmas gift to make into their

    更傾向用同一式的布料 可能是夫人聖誕節時送給員工的禮物

  • gowns. We know that sometimes zones were colour-coded as well. The reason for this was not just

    來自行縫製裙子

  • because it looked pretty, but also so that the senior servants, the butler, the housekeeper

    我們知道有時不同部門的員工服裝會指定一個顏色 不單是這樣比較好看

  • or Mrs Crocombe the cook, could look out of their window and immediately identify any

    這能方便上級員工,例如管家、女主管 和主廚Crocombe女士

  • member of staff who was where they shouldn't be. This gown does up with a mixture of the

    只要往窗外一望就能發現是否有員工 去了不屬於自己部門的地方

  • Victorian favourite, the hook and eye, and buttons. Because Mrs Crocombe was the cook,

    這裙子還原了維多利亞時代的名物 鉤扣和鈕扣

  • and therefore of rather higher status than her maids, it also has a level of detail that

    因為Crocombe女士是主廚 而地位上比她的廚房女傭高

  • you might not find if you were to look at the maids' gowns. For example, she has this

    所以這裙子有數個修飾 是不會出現在女傭的裙子上

  • rather sweet lace collar which could be removed and washed separately. Very very important

    例如這個可愛的蕾絲領口

  • to always think about the practicality of washing. One of the biggest bugbears in women's

    這是可以被拆下來獨立洗滌

  • fashion today is that things don't have pockets. Well, Mrs Crocombe being a woman of some means

    洗滌是否方便也是一個非常重要的設計考慮

  • has put a pocket in her dress. She might use it for example to keep her spectacles in.

    現代女性時裝的一個通病是缺乏有用的口袋

  • Finally of course Mrs Crocombe always wears a cap, as indeed did many other women. Certainly

    Crocombe女士作為一個能幹的女人在裙子弄了個口袋

  • lower status women would always tie their hair up. Her hair which would have been relatively

    她可以用這個來收起她的眼鏡

  • long would have been centre-parted, taken back behind her ears and then tied in a bun

    最後Crocombe女士會像其他女人總是會戴上帽子

  • at the back of her head. That bun was very important as it meant that the cap would stay

    非上流女性總是將頭髮束起

  • on with judicious use of a hairpin. Once more, the number of pleats on the cap reflects Mrs

    她的頭髮應該是頗長、中間分界 捲到耳朵後再紮成一個髻

  • Crocombe's status as the cook. If you were to look at one of the lower maids, they probably

    那個髮髻之所以重要是可以 配合髮簪來固定帽子

  • wouldn't have quite as many pleats, certainly not as carefully sewn and not as well starched.

    另外帽子邊緣的皺褶數量反映了 Crocombe女士作為主廚的地位

  • The final thing Mrs Crocombe needs is something all cooks keep in their belts at all times

    如果你將之與其他地位較低的女傭相比

  • in the kitchen: a handy cloth, again made of absorbent linen and again very washable.

    她們的帽子大概沒有那麼多皺褶 肯定不會裁剪得太精細和沒有經過澱粉好好加工

  • It's absolutely vital in a 19th century kitchen like this because these cloths not only act

    最後Crocombe女士像所有廚師都需要一件隨身工具 那就是一條抹布

  • as general wiper-uppers and hand towels, but also as oven gloves. It's doubly vital when

    這條也是由非常吸濕的亞麻布製 也是非常耐洗

  • working as our Mrs Crocombe does in an environment which is conserved like this. Spills of red

    在19世紀的廚房這是至關重要

  • wine on the floor or things that are inappropriate on surfaces need to be wiped up as quickly

    因為這塊布不但可以用來抹污跡和抹手 也可以充當隔熱手套

  • as possible, so from a practical point of view a cloth like this is vital because it

    而且我們現代的Crocombe女士在這文物古蹟中

  • means that smears of choc-ices on furniture and cherries up the wall can be removed as

    當遇上例如灑到地上的紅酒或其他牆面上的污跡 都能即時處理掉

  • soon as possible so that we can continue to preserve this Victorian kitchen for future

    所以從現實角度來看這抹布就是不可或缺

  • generations. Excellent. Mrs Crocombe is dressed and ready to go!

    這樣甚至是家私上的朱古力和 牆上的車厘子都可以立馬處理

I'm Dr Annie Gray, I'm a food historian but I also worked here at Audley End for many

我是飲食歷史學家Annie Gray博士

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