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  • When Doc Martens first appeared in the U.K., in 1960, they were working boots that would cost you under 3 a pair.

    馬丁靴最一開始在 1960 年出產於英國時,就只是價格低於 3 美元的工靴。

  • These days, a pair of Made in England boots could set you back 225 USD.

    而現在,一雙英國製的馬丁靴卻要價 225 美元。

  • So, what has changed?


  • And why are these shoes now so expensive?


  • Doc Martens are a style icon that has endured for over 50 years.

    馬丁靴是個屹立不搖超過 50 年的時尚指標。

  • They've been worn by everyone from Kanye West and Cardi B to the Dalai Lama and even Pope John Paul II, when the Vatican placed an order for the famous eight-eyelet boot in black, white, and navy leather.

    每一位名人都穿過,從饒舌歌手坎爺、卡蒂 B 到達賴喇嘛,甚至連梵蒂岡的教宗望保祿二世也曾下訂單購買黑色、白色及海軍藍的有名八孔皮靴。

  • While a pair of Docs may not be the most expensive boot out there, their price and use has gone through a pretty radical transformation.


  • And the company producing them has shifted dramatically too, from a family-owned local factory to an international fashion brand owned by a private-equity firm.


  • Since 2014, the price of boots has risen by almost 25 percent.

    馬丁靴的價格自從 2014 年起提高了幾乎 25%。

  • Sales have grown year and year, and profits were up 70 percent in 2018 to '19.

    銷售量年年增長,且 2018 年到 2019 年的收益上升了 70%。

  • So how did the company go from its humble beginnings to producing 7 million pairs of these shoes each year?


  • Before they got their punk image, Doc Martens weren't quite so cool.


  • The patented technology behind the boots, the air-cushioned sole, was invented in 1945 by Dr. Klaus Maertens.

    這種靴子背後的專利科技「氣墊鞋底」,是 Klaus Maertens 醫生在 1945 年發明的。

  • A German army doctor who injured his ankle in a skiing accident and was looking for a comfortable alternative to hard leather-sole boots.


  • The market for this new shoe technology wasn't the punks or skinheads you might associate with the history of these shoes, but older women in need of comfortable and practical footwear.


  • They were even advertised as perfect gardening shoes at one point.


  • It was when this technology was brought over to the U.K. in 1960 that the iconic shoe you might recognize was first made.

    現今常見的經典馬丁靴直到這項技術在 1960 年首次被引進英國時才首度被製造出來。

  • The air-cushioned sole was licensed to the Griggs company in Northampton, and the 1460 boot was created.

    北安普頓的 Griggs 公司得到了氣墊鞋底技術授權,接著 1460 號靴便問世了。

  • The iconic stitching and recognizable heel loop were added, and the boots were sold to factory workers across England.


  • At the time, these boots cost only 3 USD a pair.

    那時候,一雙那種靴子只要 3 美元。

  • Even with inflation, that's just over 50 USD.

    就算經過通貨膨脹,換算後也只是 50 美元。

  • They were cheap, hard-wearing, and perfect for postmen, policemen, and workers on their feet all day.


  • The boot was quickly adopted by any countercultural movement that appeared, and they became a mainstay in glam, punk, skinhead, ska, and goth style, among many others.


  • Doc Martens' fashion status wasn't always guaranteed, though.


  • After the boom in the 90s, the boots dipped out of fashion, and the company struggled, almost going bust in the early 2000s.

    九零年代的潮流過後,這種靴子退流行了,而當時公司經營困難,差點在 2000 年代初期倒閉。

  • As the industry shrank, the cost of manufacturing shoes in England also got more expensive.


  • And by 2002 it already cost around 87 USD for a pair of Doc Martens.

    到了 2002 年,一雙馬丁靴的價格已經漲到了大約 87 美元。

  • That's around 140 USD with inflation.

    換算通貨膨脹之後大約是現在的 140 美元。

  • Northamptonshire was once the home of shoemaking in England.


  • In the mid-19th century there were over 2,000 shoemakers working in the region.

    19 世紀中葉,那個地區大約有兩千家運行中的製鞋廠。

  • But as many of these shoemakers struggled, the majority went under or moved production abroad, and now there are just over 30 left.

    由於那裡許多製鞋廠都陷入困境,後來大部分都倒閉了或是將生產轉移至海外,現在大約只剩 30 多間鞋廠。

  • Doc Martens followed suit, moving their production to Asia.

    Doc Martens 也照著做,將生產基地移到亞洲。

  • The company still makes shoes in its Northamptonshire factory, but now this is only around 2 percent of its total production.

    他們在北安普頓的公司還是有生產鞋子,但是現在只佔了總產量的 2% 左右。

  • Doc Martens says this relocation hasn't changed the way its shoes are made at all.

    Doc Martens 表示,它們製作馬丁靴的方式並未因遷移工廠而有任何改變。

  • We wanted to see if there actually was a difference between the new Asian-made boots, the more expensive Made in England variety, or a vintage pair from before the move.


  • We spoke to someone who's torn down multiple pairs of these shoes to find out.


  • I'm Weston Kay, I'm a professional leatherworker, and I cut boots and shoes in half on YouTube.

    我是 Weston Kay,是名專業皮匠,我常在 YouTube 上把靴子和鞋子切半。

  • Yeah, I would say the production methods are really similar between the Asian-made boots and the Made in England boots.


  • A lot of the same features on the inside of how they stitch their boots are identical.


  • Their construction's really similar.


  • They still heat-sew the sole to the welt.


  • I think a lot of the big differences between the vintage boots and the newer ones...


  • It's stuff that you would only notice if you cut it in half, almost, or if you wore them for (a) long enough time.


  • The vintage Doc Martens had a way better midsole that adds a lot of comfort, they had a wooden shank, and the leather was just a lot better.


  • So they lasted longer, they're more comfortable, they have the support you need.


  • The newer ones just have worse versions of the old ones' materials.


  • I wouldn't describe them as a super-durable or long-lasting boot, but a lot of people are just buying these boots because they're Doc Martens anyway.


  • And they're gonna be comfortable, they're gonna last a decently long time, so most people are gonna be happy with them.


  • We contacted Doc Martens about these comments.

    我們向 Doc Martens 聯絡詢問這些評語。

  • And their spokesperson told us:


  • We have not altered any materials or manufacturing processes that would jeopardise the quality of our products.


  • And where specification changes have occurred they have been made to enhance our iconic products and to ensure we improve the wearers' experience.


  • We removed the shank in 2000 after realising it did not improve the structural integrity of our boots.

    我們發現木質腰鐵並無助於產品的完善性後,便在 2000 年將其移除了。

  • In 2005, our internal filler was changed from felt to a better-quality material.

    2005 年,我們將內部填料由毛氈換為品質更佳的材質。

  • The 90s boot being referenced along with our current Made In England range have a leather thickness of 1.8 millimetres, whereas our main range has a thickness of 1.6 mm.

    被提出比較的九零年代舊式靴子和現今英國製系列,皮革厚度都是 1.8 毫米,而我們主要生產的靴子皮革厚度則是 1.6 毫米。

  • Regardless of the materials, Doc Martens' style has endured.


  • And since 2002, the brand's popularity has skyrocketed.

    自從 2002 年起,這個品牌的人氣就一飛沖天。

  • The countercultural image that made it so famous is something that has stuck to this day, despite the expansion from small-town British-made boot to international icon.


  • And for fans of the boot, this can be an obsession.


  • Over the years, the company's evolved from producing one boot in 1960 to producing around 250 styles each year.

    許多年來,Doc Martens 從在 1960 年只製造一隻靴子,演變成每年生產超過 250 種類型的鞋子。

  • And as its popularity has grown, so has the competition.


  • Over recent years, Doc Martens has filed lawsuits against Urban Outfitters, Vans, Boohoo, and others in an attempt to protect its iconic boot design.

    近幾年間,Doc Martens 曾對 Urban Outfitters、Vans、Boohoo 和其他品牌提告,試著保護自己經典的靴子設計。

  • In 2014, the company was sold by the family and bought by private-equity firm Permira.

    2014 年,Doc Martens 公司被 Griggs 家族賣給了私募股權公司 Permira。

  • Since this takeover, the price of boots has risen by almost 25 percent, and profits were up 70 percent in 2018 to '19, in large part due to the newfound success of their vegan range.

    被收購之後,馬丁靴的價格上漲了快 25%,收益也在 2018 到 2019 年間成長了 70%,一大部分是因為它們新的純素皮革系列大獲成功。

  • And while the boots have transitioned from an English worker's boot into a global fashion icon, their style has endured, and their devoted fan following isn't going anywhere.


When Doc Martens first appeared in the U.K., in 1960, they were working boots that would cost you under 3 a pair.

馬丁靴最一開始在 1960 年出產於英國時,就只是價格低於 3 美元的工靴。

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