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Hi, I'm Fashion Historian Amber Butchart
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Today we're here at Wroxeter Roman City, which is cared for by English Heritage
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During the third century when
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Britain was part of the once powerful Roman Empire, this was one of the largest
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cities in the country. From tradespeople to trendsetters, Wroxeter was a thriving
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metropolis of power, politics and pampering. Today we're going to be
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exploring the Roman beauty trends that quite literally changed the face of
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Britain. We're going to show you how you can recreate a Roman-inspired look at
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home, and we're going to be taking a look at some makeup artefacts found right
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here at Wroxeter.
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So what are we waiting for? Let's explore Roman Britain
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Rebecca, hello!
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Hi Amber, it's nice to see you again
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Nice to see you too. Now today is very exciting. Britain was a province of the
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Roman Empire for around 400 years from 43 AD. Today we're here at
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Wroxeter Roman City which was the fourth largest city in Roman Britain,
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comparable in size to Pompeii in Italy. So it was a really busy, bustling
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thriving place to live and work. Now what's especially exciting for us is
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that there have been a lot of cosmetic artefacts found here on the site as well
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so we'll be looking into those later. Now tell me about the Roman look that we're
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going to recreate today.
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Well we know the Roman Empire was big and it existed for a long time.
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So we decided to take a starting point and our starting point is
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a woman called Julia Domna. She was the wife of Emperor Septimius Severus in the
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3rd century AD and we're going to be creating a Roman style look on our
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beautiful model Sarah - hello - and let's get started
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Great
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Now many people in Roman Britain would have known about Julia Domna due to her
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status as the Empress, the Emperor's wife. So how are we going to bring this look to life?
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Well we're going to start at a point that I always think of when I think of
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the Romans and that is bathing and cleanliness
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The Romans were famous, I guess, for their bathing process and actually it's really
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interesting because if you've been to a spa or you've been to a hammam a lot of
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the processes you see in spas today are really, really similar to what
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the Romans were using. So you would have cold rooms, steam rooms, saunas, warm rooms
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and massages and maybe some beauty therapists
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Sounds lovely doesn't it?
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Yeah, I'm glad I came
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So we're going to start our
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first step in the Roman bathing ritual by massaging Sarah's arm with a little
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bit of oil. We're using just a cheap olive oil
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At this stage I would like your arm please, yes
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So oil is what helps to start the cleaning process. So we'll massage it in
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While I'm doing this I think it's really interesting to think about how
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important appearance was to Romans
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Well appearance, bathing, grooming all of these
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things are really important for Roman and Roman British identity and all
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aspects of the way you present yourself could sort of signal things like gender,
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maybe your rank if you were in the military, amulets might be worn for
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protection so a variety of different things
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Now also something that really shows the importance of grooming is toilette sets
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that have been found including things like tweezers and nail cleaners as well
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which people might wear on their person. So it just really shows the importance of
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keeping a clean body
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Yeah it's really interesting that tools for beauty seem
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to be really important part of the Roman process and there's one tool that I'm
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excited to be using
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On me?
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Yeah, on you!
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This is a strigil and this was used by slaves in the baths to clean the skin
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So once you've massage oil into the skin, maybe then you'd go off and do some more
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bathing or some exercise or some swimming, and then your slave would take
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the strigil and they run it down the skin and this removes the oil and the grease
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and the dirt. Oil is a really effective cleanser we still use it today
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and most modern skincare line-ups have an oil cleanser because oil is lipophilic
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and that means it attracts like, it attracts itself and it tracks dirt so
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it's super, super effective way of cleansing and also exfoliating the skin
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So in the age before YouTube and Instagram and magazines how did the
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Romans get their information about new trends and styles?
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Well luckily for us we do have quite a few images of Julia Domna
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One source in particular that
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we can draw on is coins. Now coins were a great way for the ruling family to
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disseminate their image, to show how they wanted to be presented to really relay
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their power. Women on coins tended to be either goddesses or empresses like Julia
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But what's particularly useful for us is that it also shows us what
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hairstyles were current as well
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Well, we'll do the next step in our Roman
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skincare regime and I'm going to moisturise your skin using something
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which we know as lanolin. Now lanolin is the grease from sheep's wool which
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sounds a bit disgusting, but it's an incredibly effective moisturiser it's
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really, really emollient and you can feel it's really quite heavy and sticky but
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it actually contains a lot of ingredients that in modern day skincare
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we really look out for. So it's got a AHAs and BHAs - alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids
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These are incredible for your skin, so your skin will feel
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fantastic. But it might be a little bit smelly
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A couple of writers in Rome complained about the smell of their wives and
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girlfriends using lanolin on their skin
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But you might be pleased to know that this
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is not the smelliest or weirdest ingredient that we could have used on
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you today. In some parts of the Roman Empire there was an ingredient
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called 'crocodilea' that was used. Reports vary as to whether that's the
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intestines of a crocodile
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or the dung of a crocodile - oh no! - that you would spread on your face
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I don't want to be a Roman
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But it would tighten and tone your skin, interested yet?
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No!
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Ok!
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Now one thing we should keep in mind is that as with today women in Roman Britain do not form
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a homogeneous group. The Roman Empire is huge geographically and there's a lot of
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movement within it as well. So we've got people coming here from the
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Mediterranean, from the Middle East like Julia Domna from Syria and from North Africa
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as well. And that's on top of the groups who are here already when
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the Romans arrived like the Cornovii tribe who were living around the area of Wroxeter
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The Roman Empire was really international wasn't it?
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It really was and we see that in some of the textile fragments that remain as well
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For example we see Chinese silks or silks made with Chinese yarns that have been
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found on sites in Colchester, just incredible. And it's thought that
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cosmetics could have been imported from as far away as Egypt which was also a
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Roman province at the time as well. So travel and trade was really, really
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extensive at this point
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It's incredible how far things could travel within the
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Empire. But there's something that we have that I think is really exciting that is
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we think exclusive to Britain. It's a Roman cosmetics grinder. This is a replica.
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It's so fascinating! So you would take your mortar and into your mortar
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you'd put a piece of charcoal or perhaps antimony or maybe even soot, which is
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what some Romans use to create an eyeliner or a kohl. And then you would
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take your pestle and you'd grind it up to make a powder,
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you'd perhaps put a drop of oil or fat into there, and then this grinder is so
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specially shaped that it fits on the eye so you can use this actually as your
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makeup applicator
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Now this look in particular that we associate with Julia Domna;
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the dark eyes, the dark brows, we see this in depictions of women in
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the later Roman era as well throughout the empire, so it was clearly very popular
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Well I'm going to leave you getting to grips with that, and I'm going
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to go and find out more about the cosmetic artefacts that have been found
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here at Wroxeter so I will see you later
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Have fun!
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Cameron tell me about your work as a Curator with English Heritage
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I'm the Curator of Collections for the West Midlands. I look after the things that
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are on display at the sites in the various site museums and for the large
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collection of material that is held in warehouses across the country
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Now you've done some work specifically looking at Roman cosmetics that have been found
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here at Wroxeter. Tell me how that came about
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The first proper excavations took place here in the 1910s and the 1920s, and that material hadn't really
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been re-examined for a long time. And when I recently came back to go
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through those collections, I found three items that had previously been described as 'lunate pendants',
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the kind of thing that would hang from a necklace
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And now we know that those are actually little cosmetic sets, grinding
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sets that were used for eye makeup in the Roman period
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Amazing and are they specific to Britain?
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They are specific to Britain, yes, and you start to see
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them in the 1st century AD and they do seem to be a response within this
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country to the import of cosmetics and ideas about personal beauty that
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coming here from the Mediterranean
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I'm really excited to see some of these
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objects, what have you brought with you today?
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Well here are two components of two different cosmetic grinder sets they
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come in little sets but you tend to find them individually because people take
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them apart from each other to use them
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What other cosmetic items do we have?
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We have a surprising number of cosmetic items. We have nail cleaners, a wide
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variety of nail cleaners; we have tweezers, depilation was a big thing
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hairlessness was was very attractive and one of my personal favourites is this
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little perfume bottle, we have loads of perfume bottles
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What else do these discoveries tell us about Roman life?
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I think they really tell us that Roman life was urban life
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and that when the Romans came they brought with them this
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whole range of new influences and new materials and new consumer goods that
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simply did not exist before in this country
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Cameron thank you so much
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We're midway through our transformation so I'm going go and see how they're getting on
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Thank you
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Bye
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Oh wow! Look at that, it's so bright
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I love it!
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We're finally using some colour, I'm very excited
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We've got some written evidence that suggests that Roman women would use
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ground-up precious stones or minerals to create eyeshadows,
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so maybe using lapis lazuli or malachite
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or azulite, sometimes even saffron as well, ground-up maybe with a touch of
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oil to create you know an eyeshadow
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Now I did do some grinding. I ground some lapis lazuli
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and this is what you get. It's a really, really beautiful color
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But I'm not actually using it on Sarah because I didn't actually want to put granules of rock on
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her eyes because my grinding skills are not the best, so I'm using a modern
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equivalent which is a brightly coloured pigment powder
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So gorgeous!
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And it looks amazing
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I'm applying it with my finger and I also mocked up a bit of speculation as to
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what a Roman eyeshadow blender might look like. This is bit of lamb's wool
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with some wool lashed onto a stick - lovely! - for blending out the edges
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Incredible! Well the Roman world would have been a really vibrant place. We tend to think of
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people as just wearing white at this time and I think there are a couple of
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reasons behind this. Firstly it's because of statues which now are white, but at
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the time would mostly have been painted in quite bright colors but this has kind
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of tainted our idea of what the ancient world looked like. In fact we have
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writing from Ovid in 'The Art of Love' and he talks about woolen clothes in a
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number of different colours; saffron, amethyst, green, sky blue, watercolor which
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sounds lovely, chestnut, almond - it really would have
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been a rainbow, bright, vibrant place to live
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Let's finish this look off with
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some lips and cheeks and I'm adding a small amount of colour
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This is modern, safe version of vermillion, mixed with goose fat and beeswax
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So hairstyles were a really important aspect of display in the Roman world
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What are you going to do to Sarah's hair today?
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We're going to be using a wig
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today and it's not necessarily the case that every single woman would have used
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a wig to get these elaborate styles, but wigs were used in the Roman Empire
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Well hairstyles were clearly very important in Roman Britain because hair pins are
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one of the most common sight finds that we find around the country and this
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actually started to die out towards the end of the 4th century and
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it's been suggested that that could be because it was at this period where
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Christianity began to become quite widespread so ideas around modesty and
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display change and it's thought that women maybe started covering their heads
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so there are fewer of these very elaborate hairstyles. While you work your
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magic I'm going to go and find out more about Wroxeter as a Roman city. See you later!
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Andrew, tell me about your work as an English Heritage Historian
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Well I'm a Properties Historian at English Heritage and I have a special interest in Roman sites
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which are spread across the country, and my job is to research the history of our
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sites and help present them to the public
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Now we're standing among these
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Roman ruins but it would have been a really bustling, thriving, busy place to
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live and work. Can you paint a picture of what it would have been like here in the 3rd century?
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Wroxeter was founded as an army fortress on land taken from
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the Cornovii tribe as part of the conquest of the North-West of Britain
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By the 3rd century it's developed into a thriving city and much like any other city in the
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Roman Empire you would have a whole range of different people from across
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the Roman world some would be of very high status so the rich men that served
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on city council, others might be craftspeople or traders, farmers and of
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course slaves they did a lot of the unseen hard work
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Where exactly are we right now?
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Right now we're standing in Wroxeter's famous
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public bathhouse. 1800 years ago you would be able to smell the fires burning in the furnaces
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that heated the baths, you'd be able to
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hear the chattering of the bathers and perhaps the cries of the vendors
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selling their wares in the marketplace next door
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So bathing was really important for the Romans, talk me through how these baths would have been used
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Well bathing was an essential part of Roman life. Every Roman citizen rich
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or poor; man, woman or child would expect to bathe as a daily part of their ritual
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And we're not talking about a quick wash, we're talking about a series of quite
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involved elaborate processes. So you'd start in the coldest room, the frigidarium, and
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then you moved to the tepidarium, which is a warmer room, before finally going to
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the caldarium, which was the hottest room where you'd be able to get a hot bath
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Once you'd had enough of the heat, you'd go back to the beginning and take a
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cold