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Tel Aviv.
As Israel grows more nationalist,
Tel Aviv is the last stronghold
of our nation's liberals.
It is a supercool cosmopolitan city
and the place I call home.
In 2016, I decided to say goodbye to Tel Aviv
and spend the summer with the Israelis
that I disagree with the most: the settlers.
Since Israel's ongoing military occupation
of the West Bank that started in 1967,
Jewish settlers have moved to the Palestinian territories
into settlements that are illegal,
according to the international law.
As Israeli society polarizes around views
of the occupation, I found myself increasingly
curious about Israelis my age who
grew up in those settlements, who
were born into this reality.
I ended up in one of the oldest Israeli settlements,
called Tekoa, which was founded in 1977.
About an hour drive from Tel Aviv,
it is a world apart, isolated in the Judean hills
and surrounded by Palestinian villages.
I rented a small apartment on the corner of Hospitality
Road and Joy Street.
And I thought to myself, these are two things
I'll definitely need here.
After all, it's not every day that a liberal from Tel Aviv
moves to a settlement.
Once I settled in, to make myself feel more at home,
I set up a small cafe and waited for company.
Well, apparently coffee is not in demand in Tekoa,
as well as a liberal with three cameras.
For a while, it seemed like the only locals
who visited my table were flies, a cat, and my only
new friend in town, Matanya.
But being stubborn eventually paid off.
Unlike Tekoa, which is considered
a moderate settlement, the Jewish settlement
in the Palestinian city of Hebron
is the most extremist of all, where
extreme settlers live in the midst
of a large Palestinian city.
Moriya grew up there.
It seems like we grew up in totally different worlds.
While I knew Palestinians come in and out of the settlements
every day to work, building more of the buildings
that they will never be allowed to live in,
seeing them line up to enter settlements
that represent their oppression with my own eyes
was very unsettling.
Her uncensored lack of political correctness
definitely shocked me, but also
made me want to hear more.
Despite a peace and love and the hippie vibe of Tekoa,
sometimes the complexity of the tension
here slaps you in the face.
My next door neighbor's family was
attacked in the shooting ambush, killing her father,
and leaving her mother and two siblings wounded.
Her cry and weep across our shared wall
when she first got the message tore my heart apart.
In January 2016, a Palestinian teenager
stabbed Tekoa resident Michal Froman
at the local thrift shop.
She was four months pregnant at the time.
Most of the people my age I chatted with
were honest about the negative effect of the settlements
on Palestinians, who are repressed
as long as they are occupied.
I wondered how they still choose to live here.
On my last day in Tekoa, Matanya
stopped by for a farewell chat.
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