tile floor. It's definitely one of the more advanced projects, but you can do it. In this

video we'll show you how to prep the floor. After you've prepped, watch How to Install

a Tile Floor at Lowes.com/HowTo.

Getting the subfloor ready is THE most important part of the job because if you don't do it

right the floor could crack. Now a tile floor can be installed several ways. Whatever you

do, just be sure to follow your local codes and your manufacturer's directions.

To give you an idea of our installation, here's what we'll do:

After we take out the old floor, we'll apply unmodified mortar to the existing concrete

mortar bed. Then we'll put down this Schluter DITRA uncoupling membrane; a layer of unmodified

thinset; our tile; grout; and sealer.

Now keep in mind that this install is not the same as tiling a shower or tub.

Before you get started, figure out how much new tile you'll need. Multiply the length

times the width and add 10% for extra. If you special order your tile, you can schedule

your project for when your tile order will be ready.

Now it's time to remove the old flooring. Start by taking out the toilet, vanity, and

any trim that might be in the way. Oh, and plug the sewer pipe with a rag to keep sewer

gas from leaking into the room.

If you're removing tile like we are, it's a really good idea to mask off the doorway

and open a window. I'm not going to lie—removing tile gets really dusty. Ok, take a hammer

and give the old tile a whack. After you've broken some up, use a hammer and chisel to

remove the tile.

Once the tile is gone, use a floor scraper to remove the old thinset.

As you can see, our bathroom has a mortar bed. This is common in homes built before

1950, like ours. You can repair minor cracks and tile over it like we are, but if it has

major damage you'll have to remove it. Your subfloor has to be in good condition, uniform,

proper thickness, dry, clear of any residue, and level. If it isn't level, just fill the

low spots with a leveling compound.

There's been a big change in this room. As you can see we're also working on replacing

our tile walls. You can find the video for this process at our website. All right, well

now it's time to put down the Schluter DITRA. This stuff is pretty cool. It's a flexible

membrane that allows for expansion under the tile, but it also gives us a strong foundation

and helps protect the subfloor underneath.

So to begin installing this membrane, start in a corner and roll it out across the floor.

Cut it at the wall and that's the first piece. Go ahead and cut all your pieces.

If you have to cut around pipes, just use a utility knife.

It's also a good idea to mark the edges of each run to know where to spread your thinset.

Once all the pieces are cut and in place, be sure to mark numbers on each piece as well

as corresponding numbers on the floor.

If you have doorjambs and doors, stack a floor tile on a piece of the membrane against the

trim. Use a jamb saw to cut it about 1/16 of an inch above the stack, and cut doors

about 1/8 of an inch above the stack.

Next, you'll need to mix unmodified thinset mortar. Mix it fairly loose, but not so thin

that the ridges fall down when it's applied with a trowel. Use a 14-in by 3/16-in V-notched

trowel. Apply a thin layer of mortar to the substrate with the flat side to produce solid

contact with the surface. Then comb the mortar using the notched side.

Roll the membrane over the floor, fleece side down, and solidly embed it in the mortar using

a wood float. Pull back a corner of the membrane to check that you're getting full coverage.

You should see half of the mortar on the floor and half on the fleece. Continue laying the

DITRA, keeping the pieces tight against each other.

To make the floor completely waterproof, install KERDI-BAND on the seams and corners. Use unmodified

thinset mortar with the same trowel, making sure there's at least a 2-in overlap at all

seams.

We're really making progress on this bathroom and we're almost done with prepping the floor.

We just need to make some reference lines for the new tile.

Mark the center of two opposite walls and snap a chalkline. Spraying hairspray works

well to hold the chalk on the membrane. Do the same on the other two walls to form a

cross, and check that it's square. Loose lay the tile along the lines, using the spacers

for accuracy. Leave about 1/4-in between the perimeter tiles and walls for expansion. If

the layout gives you thin cuts on the sides, adjust it to get a wider cut, and mark new

reference lines. Now you can pick up the tiles.

Well, our lines are set so now it's time to start laying some tile. Check out the rest

of this project at Lowes.com/HowTo.