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  • All right, guys.

  • So the last work in progress video, like I mentioned in the previous one, I want this one to mostly focus on building these little resin figures to go along with your kids if you chose to do that like I'm going to do with mine.

  • But before I do that, actually, I wanted to do some weathering on is actually just a little bit just a little bit.

  • Not really a whole lot.

  • So just go over that quickly.

  • Just a couple things that I'm going to do.

  • Just add a little tiny bit of weathering to this on.

  • Then we'll focus on how to build your little resin figure.

  • They're so first thing I'm gonna do is use these, Mr Weathering Claris here, ground brown and grayish brown.

  • Here.

  • Make sure shake it up really well first.

  • And these do have, like, a little BB in there.

  • Ever.

  • That should help you to mix up the big men in there.

  • Really?

  • Well, unlike the accent color panel line washes.

  • These don't have a brush attached on the inside of their civil to use some other sort of brush.

  • Whatever you might want to use for that thing for this one.

  • I'm just gonna wanting to use, uh, SMS brushes a little bit smaller one just to, like, apply it where we want.

  • And then I'll use different one to do some kind of clean up on this.

  • So basically, just gonna be using this thio apply just some kind of like targeted filtering in some areas.

  • So not gonna like doing be doing the field during the lower like the whole thing.

  • Uh, but just in a few areas around here, and I'll just give it, uh, just kind of look of some dirt going on, I suppose.

  • And it's with a different brush.

  • This is just like a soft one.

  • I'll just have this wedded with some lighter fluid and just kind of, um, brush this in here just kind of loosely and once that's done, it should be very subtle.

  • At least that's what I'm going for.

  • And so, you see, just a very slight difference between something that's clean, not done yet and something that has just a little bit of just kind of that dirt filter kind of added to it.

  • All right, so it took a little while, but once all that filtering is done, then the other step that I want to do is just a little bit of dry brushing, no dry brushing the color you use for it.

  • People can use all sorts of different colors of grey, brown, black metallic colors you can use.

  • I'm just going to use black, just some to me, a flat black here just because, like I said, I'm trying to make it really super subtle.

  • So I just wanted to have just a little bit of roughness on some of the edges here with this flat black.

  • I don't think in a lot of people for like, chipping and stuff on the edges will use multiple tones.

  • I don't even think I'm gonna need to use multiple tones, but we'll see how it goes on my end of doing like a really super tiny bit in like a secondary town.

  • But, um, this one gonna use this Nazca for dry brush brush here.

  • See, as we know that Nasca is a no keys kind of particular line of pain product from Guy A.

  • But they also make some difference modeling tools as well, not a lot.

  • And there's the brushes and files a just few things.

  • I was actually even tried this brush yet, but it's a special brush particularly, I guess, for Dr Rushing.

  • So let's try it out now.

  • The keys drive rushing, like all weathering is to go out subtle as possible, as little as possible at first.

  • Unless you know I like you.

  • You know you're going for like, a super heavy look because you want to go settle, and you can always add Mauritz much easier to add more than it is to take away.

  • So in my case, I'm only wanting to do a little bit.

  • But if you wanted a little bit more weathered look, you know, just start a little bit, then you can always add more also for dry brushing.

  • You want a little paint on the brush as possible, so it's gonna get a little bit on there and just sort of dab it off on here.

  • Just kind of get a bunch off here on the paper towel so that there's gonna be kind of like almost nothing left on there.

  • Then we'll go to our part and just start brushing on it Here.

  • This won't take long sweeping wide strokes over the edges so that you're just barely catching a little bit of paint on there.

  • And that is yeah, like again all that.

  • You're gonna want to start off with them for me.

  • That's all I'm gonna wanna keep for mine.

  • So you can see on that edge of just got a little bit of a line going on that edge there.

  • That is exactly how I want that to be just really lightly, really subtle like that.

  • So that's cool.

  • Another way you can actually do this if you want to go.

  • Super subtle like that, actually, is just with just a regular pencil, the lead pencil.

  • It's kind of scratching on the edge, and that also works slightly different.

  • Look, But that will also be a really good technique if you just want some really subtle chipping, dry brushing, sort of.

  • Look, you get for that.

  • All right, So as for the resin figure that we're gonna be building with this it is, I believe, 1/20 scale or something like that.

  • Anyway, it's just a small scale figure here of that girl character atra and like, in sort of like coming out of like a space suit.

  • I'll put a picture of there on the screen so you guys can see so I'll just take a look at a couple of the parts here.

  • So I noticed a lot like Gumpel.

  • You have, like, tabs on here and these airport tabs from just the same as the way Gundam model parts are molded.

  • These air also molded in molds.

  • And so you have this thing parts where the resident is flowing into the part.

  • And so that's where you have these mold bits on there, which you need to remove on some of these parts on some, like, here's the face part.

  • It's just a little bit on there and this part, and this is an area that is going to be hidden by the hair.

  • Anyway, such is easy enough to just cut this off on some of these other parts here, Like this is the part here for the neck.

  • Uh, I just cut that part off.

  • I'm probably have to clean this up some more as well.

  • Is this the part for, like, the upper torso, the neck and the arms?

  • But this kid's eyes gonna be like at the base of the neck There it has the little tab.

  • And that is supposed to be where this is fitting up into the head there.

  • So this kid like the way this kid is made, it has, like, the's sort of peg's molded on their second, like here and here at the bottom of the leg.

  • There's tabs already molded together with that.

  • That's supposed to make it easy for you to just be able to tap the different parts.

  • I'm just plug the different parts in together.

  • Still like this is the part where the legs meant to plug down into their cities are meant to just line up.

  • But just for me, I'm just gonna just because I don't know, I think it's probably gonna be easier to just cut these off and just do it and serve my own normal way of how I do these.

  • But let me just see here, Yeah, I think it's gonna be easier to just cut off these entirely and just do the attaching the parts in the way that I would normally do it.

  • So I'll just show you guys how I would normally do it.

  • And that's probably gonna doing for this kid as well.

  • The other thing just to keep in mind, guys, is that I'm certainly no expert when it comes to resin figures and stuff.

  • So this is just gonna be a very simple way that I put mine together.

  • You guys can follow it if you want, but if you're really interested in getting into a resin, figures and stuff, especially like the larger, more typical once, you would normally see like in 1/8 216 scale around that your size range, that would actually recommend you guys check out Leona's Workshop.

  • It's a pretty good channel.

  • I think it's one that I usually look to for this sort of stuff.

  • All right, say, the first step that I wanna do is basically just getting rid of, like, the big Tabs.

  • And so I'm not gonna worry about cleaning everything up super well, because that's gonna come later.

  • So the first bit is just gonna be getting rid of these tabs as you'll see.

  • Basically, I use a combination of just like these old nippers for just cutting off big chunks, and then I'll just use my hobby knife basically as the same as I would with building.

  • Gumpawa has to clean them up just a little bit better.

  • And like I said, I'm not worried about getting them really perfect right now because nothing that these will have is against somewhere to regular Gumpel any plastic look it.

  • They'll have, like mold lines going along there, where the two halves the mold meet together.

  • And with these usually being in like white or off white, or like yellow color resin for most resin kits, it's kind of really hard to see the old lines s O.

  • I find it easier to just kind of remove as much as I can at first that I can very clearly see.

  • Then you need to wash the parts to get the mold release off of them is that they will take paint easier and then spray a coat of primer on them.

  • And then the coat of primer will make it a lot easier to see where I need to clean up some more parts and do a little more sanding things like that.

  • So I'm just want to first get the parts just like the major nubs on tabs caught off of here.

  • Now, probably end up using these a little bit more later.

  • But this is another really helpful tool that I found for doing this kind of thing.

  • These air from wave.

  • These are just chisels.

  • And I have three different sizes one millimeter, two millimeter and 3.5 millimeter.

  • But what these are in there really handy Just because just all one thing here you can screw off the big here, and this is where the actual chisel is, and then you just turn that around and it screws on back the other way to act as your grip.

  • So it's a cap to predict the chisel on a grip.

  • You don't have like a separate peace.

  • So I like that this is just all that kind of one thing getting together.

  • Or, I suppose, if you wanted, you can screw this onto the back end like that was.

  • That's more comfortable.

  • But whatever is more comfortable for you.

  • Allah, typically, just keep that at the end there.

  • So for getting into areas where it's kind of harder for the hub enough to reach, for example, the tab in here was located on this part.

  • We're sort of like a condom cave surface, so the knife being flat can't reach to there.

  • So it's easier to just dig that out a little bit here with this curved chisel.

  • Once all that main cleanup is done before we go and give these about, actually, what I want to do first is I will drill some of these parts.

  • I think someone like the pre molded pegs in the parts.

  • I think some of those I may use, like this one just going like connecting the two halves of the body together.

  • I'll try to maybe use that.

  • But some of the other ones I will need to pin I will just ops to pain rather than using the pre molded parts there.

  • So basically what you need is a set of drills.

  • It's like this part here.

  • We've got the pre molded hole there, but it doesn't quite fit quite right.

  • So what I'm just gonna do is try drilling that out a little bit, uh, on and see how this fits.

  • If it's not really, really wanted to fit really well, then I'll just pin this with a rod with just a brass round.

  • We'll take a look at the moment but just give us try first.

  • Uh, here we go on.

  • It's a pretty good fit.

  • I think so.

  • I think that'll probably work for now.

  • Maybe I'll end up maybe putting.

  • We'll see how it looks.

  • Once it's private.

  • I can get a kind of a better look if there's any kind of gap or anything in there, I may end up putting a little bit of putty in between.

  • This part's just to get rid of any gap, but it doesn't look like that's gonna be a problem with these two particular parts anyway, So let's move on to a part that I know I am going to wanna pin, and that is gonna be actually from the bottom of the leg.

  • Now from bottom of leg actually needs to go through this part and then into this part down here.

  • So I know I first need to just drill where, but that just put the drill down, drill a hole through here on that at the bottom of the leg there, where they're actually was in the head.

  • Peg and I cut it off.

  • I probably should have just left it on there, actually, but since I cut that off.

  • I'm gonna have to use a pin here instead.

  • So this one's going just some two millimeter a line?

  • Uh, only a little bit of this, Not a whole lot.

  • Let's cut a little bit more than what I'm expecting to need.

  • I know it's cut it down more later, but that will just fit up into there through that part there for the kind of part of clothes and then that needs to plug down into here servicing Thio.

  • Drill this.

  • Hold out little where this hole is already here from where the peg was molded.

  • But it's not really very deep Sauna soon make this a little bit deeper here because I can tell it's definitely going to be a lot longer than it needs to be.

  • So So go ahead and cut a little bit off of that and should fit pretty well here.

  • Thing is still gonna be a bit long, so I'm going to cut it again.

  • But yeah, a little bit more off that.

  • There we go.

  • Easy enough.

  • And once again here, the gap between the parts does look pretty fine.

  • Actually, this kid seems like molded actually pretty well just good.

  • So then, just like the whole body is gonna be something like that.

  • We do have this little piece here is actually this piece toe hold.

  • This thing goes something like that's meant to be, like pinned in the toe like that for holding us up because she's meant to be, like, sort of floating.

  • So we're about pinning that on me a little bit later.

  • These arm parts for, like, the suit will go on to the side here, so I'll worry about pinning those.

  • They just want to check out the head here as well, if you have ah, pre molded peg here for the head in for, like, the face into the back of the hair.

  • But I need to drill out this whole here for that.

  • See, somehow that hole got completely lost, and it also seems to be about bigger size.

  • The other pigs were two millimeter where this one's larger.

  • See if a 2.5 millimeters right there we go.

  • That's like seems right.

  • Anyway, if it's really tightly there for the head, then just the part for the front of the head, uh, just needs to sit on there like that.

  • And then this should just go right on top of here.

  • Pretty.

  • Simply think I need to drill out the partner in the base of the head a little bit as well, but you kind of get the idea anyway that it's not quite straight, Mom.

  • But it's gonna look something like that.

  • Pretty much so.

  • All right, All right.

  • So here is the dry fits.

  • Everything is pinned in place for the time being, except for the part for the front of the hair, which in the end, I'll just glue stick on their little drop superglue.

  • So don't worry about pinning that woman, but everything fits pretty good, actually.

  • Someone just now going to take her apart again go use some soapy water and old toothbrush and ask everything all nice and clean.

  • Get a coat of primer sprayed on here and they will come back and see where we need to do a little more sanding little bit more cleanup on this.

  • Okay, all primed.

  • Here is how she's gonna look.

  • Well, at least with the kind of thin coat of primer over.

  • And I have got it stuck down here with some tech because otherwise doesn't balance on its own.

  • I'll have to ultimately pin this to the base s so that it can actually stand.

  • Because although it's like, kind of meant to look balanced, it doesn't actually really balance wells on its own.

  • So now just a matter of going and you can see, like, this minor imperfections.

  • They're like, you know where the tab was on that.

  • And it's just gonna live like a rough edge around here.

  • Just standing that.

  • And I like to use these soft type sanding sticks that are kind of, like spongy so that they're not gonna create any, like, hard edges.

  • They're still kind of soft.

  • Uh, and as you're standing in a way, you can see where the where the dips, where there were the imperfections, where they'll stand out more just because they're the places that are still got some primary in there once that's end well enough, then we can move on to the next part.

  • In just a matter of making a way through the parts here, sometimes you will have a bubbles in your parts, and it looks like, unfortunately, got bubble on top of each shoulder here, so I will have to put a little bit of putty in there, probably will just use a little tiny bit of epoxy putty and just kind of stuff it in there.

  • And then I'll have to re send that down again.

  • So not the worst thing in the world.

  • Overall, Everything else doesn't look like there's any bubbles anywhere, which is good then, like on this part.

  • Here, for example, like on the side of the hip, the lion here between the skin and the pence is almost kind of lost, like here on the front.

  • It's fine.

  • There's, like a good definition, never here on the side.

  • There's hardly any definition there, so we'll just maybe just re scribe that edge a little bit.

  • And also on the clothes, like the spacesuit here.

  • There's a couple of areas where, like the lines like this line that's supposed to describe through there is a little bit lost.

  • Its a little bit fading away, little bit song to just kind of tried to re scribe that a little bit.

  • So it's just a matter of kind of cleaning up some of the details, and actually, the mold lines on this seem pretty good the mold lines aren't really two apparent, Really?

  • So just a little bit of standing on the old lines and fixing some of the details a little bit, and that's pretty much it.

  • Then it'll need to be washed again.

  • Now you can get into painting and prime it again.

  • So give that party plenty time to cure and went head in Santa, this side already.

  • So that is all done than this.

  • I just need to go into sand that down as well.

  • And then once that is all looks pretty good.

  • Anyway, we'll have to check it, will you?

  • I will give these parts another just kind of quick rinse off just to get the dust off them again.

  • And then I'll give them another light coat of primer just to check for anything else that still needs to be fixed up or not.

  • And if not, hopefully everything should be okay.

  • Then we can just move straight on into the painting.

  • Oh yeah, And I also had some leftover epoxy putty after filling those gaps.

  • So I just rolled this into basically just like a pipe and then just carved into this shape of like a water bottle and in stuck this on a little tiny 0.5 millimeter rod to be able to stick this on to like her soon.

  • So it's like floating in there because she's like a floating post.

  • It seems kind of weird, actually, that this is making the Barbados into, like a desert type, which is not in space.

  • And then the pilot figure is like floating, which looks like it's supposed to be like in space.

  • It's kind of realized that doesn't really quite match.

  • So it's also like a floating water bottle also adds to that kind of zero g look of the pilot figure.

  • But anyway, it's okay.

  • Are you're so with go to primary and then had a couple parts they needed to touch up just a little bit more.

  • Otherwise, most everything was pretty Okay, Now we can actually move on thio the colors.

  • I'm gonna paint the skin first, and in order to do that, we need to get those parts that are skin tone back to white, not grave for underneath the skin tone color.

  • So I'm going to give the parts that are skinned on her face, like the upper body parts and then, like the main body part, another coat of primer just with white primer that in this case, and then we can paint the skin tone on there.

  • All right, so we give that primer some time to cure a little bit.

  • In the meantime, we can go ahead and paint some of the other color.

  • So for the hair color, I'm going to use this number 3 21 light brown.

  • Should be.

  • Just write about a good color for her hair, I reckon.

  • Then, for the main color of the space suit, I'm going to use a little bit of a combination here.

  • This is number 25 Dark See gray, which is kind of dark starting.

  • Then maybe it'll be a little bit too dark.

  • I'm gonna lay that like, over the whole thing.

  • And then I'm gonna use number 3 15 gray F s 16440 as a kind of highlight color for the spacesuits.

  • So hopefully that'll work out.

  • Thanks.

  • All right, then, for the always tricky skin tone, I'm gonna use a dual tone attack here.

  • Although the kid is so tiny out enough is really gonna end up being all that noticeable.

  • But first I want to go with him or 52 which is notes flesh white for the base color of bass tone.

  • Just sort of like barely off white on and then do some of the shadowing here with number 54 notes, flesh, orange and just kind of basically do like you're sort of like appreciating like you would do with Gumpawa on.

  • Then go back over that with a thin coat of notes, flesh white again just to kind of blend the two.

  • So it's a little bit of a process.

  • And again, if you guys want some information while painting skin tone, I highly recommend you guys check out Leona's Workshop.

  • She did a couple of really great videos recently about doing skin counsel.

  • All right, guys.

  • So here it is.

  • I've got all the based painting done there are other than obviously, and then I've gone ahead and done just some panel lining.

  • There's some washing.

  • They're just kind of bring out the details on the space to especially and then also a little bit of detail painting, painting in some of those little bits on there as well.

  • I didn't go with the official be color scheme of the original kid here.

  • For this I changed.

  • The color's a little bit.

  • I'm a little bit sad that actually my like shading that I was doing with the skin tone.

  • It looked really good when I was doing it, but like now the shading kind of for the most part is kind of a lot of it's disappeared.

  • I know maybe when the Matt Cota sprayed on there that'll be a little bit more visible again.

  • Now that it may be, just goes, got the gloss coat on there?

  • No, it's not really all that visible, so I don't know.

  • Maybe that'll come back a little bit, but lessons learned.

  • Like I said, I was still not really good at painting skin tones.

  • Still kind of learning experience for me.

  • So, uh, it was looking good but kind of disappeared, so we'll see for the face.

  • I've gone ahead and painted in the mouth with a mix of what was that?

  • That was like a flesh color and a clear read.

  • It just makes a little of that to paint the mouth in there and then painted the whites of the eyes in this case.

  • This actually came with a set of waterside details for the eyes.

  • I'm not sure how they're gonna look if he's gonna look quite good or not.

  • I'm gonna try the details first.

  • The details don't really look good.

  • Then I'll have to try my hand at painting them.

  • But I'm gonna give these ago.

  • If you're wondering what that flower logo on the barbeque toast.

  • His shoulder actually came up for one of these.

  • Matt Kay got chin and decollete sheets.

  • That little flour on there now on a different sheet.

  • That was Dickel.

  • She e this article.

  • She f There is the same flower logo there without, like, the red kind of shield bit behind us.

  • So this one, I want to stick on her clothing.

  • Someone cut that out.

  • So she has a matching logo there.

  • Well, call it cheating.

  • And yes, shame on me, because I certainly need to practice my eye painting myself.

  • But I'd say that looks good enough.

  • It looks good to me.

  • All right.

All right, guys.

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A2 初級

MG高達 巴爾巴託斯 WIP:3 (MG Gundam Barbatos WIP:3)

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    林宜悉 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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