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So I said in our 16 16 Auntie I video that this is like March Madness with deep you giveaways.

Jeannie sees right around the corner to so obviously more graphics cards.

Stuff is coming.

We know for a fact that's probably going to be a 16 50 t i or 16 50 or whatever making the lower range even Maur congested.

But every single time a new series of cards launch a new family.

Like in this case from the video, we got some newer stuff like Naveed coming from a m.

D.

Here.

In the near future, I get the same questions over and over.

How do you choose what's different between them?

Like, how do you determine which graphics card to buy?

So today we're gonna kind of talk tackle that we're gonna talk about what's different between the car design itself and not so much like a M D versus in video.

But this is more of the Nubes guide to trying to determine what kind of graphics card you want for your system.

So hopefully today we can answer most questions.

Now if you're in Advanced User, I know you already know this.

I know you're like J already know this stuff Well, why are you even watching this video?

The title says something along the lines of Nubes Guide to buying a Jeep You are you Nube!

Did you click it?

Well, that's on you now It's first important to understand that graphics cards have obviously changed over time.

So this right here is a GTX 99 80 or 98 99 80 GTX.

As you can see it, it's an aftermarket card from a B J.

But it has a blower style cooler, clearly not a reference style, because back then, they didn't really have referenced style cards that you could buy directly from video.

For a while there, you could buy a reference style card from, like, best Buy and stuff where video sold those cards.

But this was before the era of when in video started selling the Founders Edition card and was in the retail space itself, competing with its own board partners.

So this is what the card tend to look like.

A souse had its home custom designs like this is the D C U to which stands for direct copper, whatever.

And so it was touching a copper plate that was on the court.

Hey, look, chips on the back and everyone realize that this is the sixth.

This is Ah 6 60 t I.

But this was just a cooling upgrade.

What was still basically a 6 60 with a custom PCB and an upgraded cooler.

But things have changed.

You don't really see blower style coolers anymore, not at least not in 2019 in late 2018.

Because, as you could see, this is a founder's edition.

Um 10.

66 gig.

This is the Founders edition 2080.

Now they don't actually make a Founder's Edition 16 60 or 60 60 t.

I anymore.

They never did.

Actually, they let that to the board partner.

So no more Founders Edition 60 Serious card.

But on the 2070 2080 20 t I and the Titan egg or tighten our T X, they now went with a dual fan cooler like this.

And that's because one of the things that was always kind of the problem with the blower style core, which is where it cools the air in two, pushes the air out these vents in the back.

Not exhausting out the sides of the card was the fact that these cards were loud.

They were not efficient, and they just ran hotter than any other cooler on the market.

The problem was, if you didn't account for good case ventilation, then this card could get hot.

It could start throttling because of the fact that it's not having the hot air exhausted properly out of the case.

So what that means is, if we took a dual fan card like this guy or we could even use the reference cards an example, cause now this theory that I'm talking about is back in play.

If you've got this cooler that is pushing air down into the fins and then out the sides of the card on all four directions, the case is the only thing removing heat from the chassis.

Obviously, it's also the only thing removing the heat that's been exhausted by this card.

So, as you saw when we did our budget building, we only had one exhaust fan in one intake until we took the side panel off.

We were getting to our max temperatures with even our Rx 5 80 And so what that means is now this card heavily depends on you having the right cooling configuration.

In your case, what I used to always recommend for small form factor builds like when we did the ghost s one case or any sort of i t X case that had very little chassis ventilation.

I always recommended a blower style cooler because this is its own cooling environment as long as air could make it into here and the amount of CFM that the fan was trying to pull in through.

It's obviously turning of the blades.

As long as that wasn't impeded by the volume of air that was inside the chassis.

This card would run at whatever temperature you said it, too, as long as a fan curve could obviously get supplied the air that it needed.

But if you didn't have enough air coming into the chassis, then this would be spending but not getting there that it wants, which would affect the efficiency of this.

But at least the heat was exhausted out of these back vents, no longer dumping he into your case, with the exception of some of the radiating heat coming off the rear of the card.

And obviously the card's gonna warm up with the whole.

So there's some radiation to worry about there, but the majority of the heat is exhausting out the back of the card.

But since that's not the case anymore, you now need to be very mindful of your chassis, more so than probably even the cooler that you decide to go with on the market.

Now the thing that confuses a lot of people buying their first graphics card are even upgrading their graphics card.

But don't do this on a regular basis.

They go OK, what the heck.

We've got so many different designs here we've got, and this is a 2080 but it's basically the same style cooler that's on a 10 16 60 so we'll use this sort of as an example.

It's pretend these are 16 60 t eyes of those old guys that pretend these are 16 60 t eyes.

You will find the twin pros or seven like this.

On the other side card.

You'll find the Ace Use Card, which has three fans, and you'll find the E V.

A card has one fan, but all of this performed nearly identical, and the reason for that is it's about volume of the heat.

Think now.

Even Jay's decided instead of going with a longer card on the M S.

R.

P.

They do have a dual fan card, by the way, they just brought the fin stacked higher and made it a triple slot card with the single fan blowing down Maur on the just chunk of heat fins that that makes sense.

But if you look at the M S, I card the heat sink is clearly longer the night of the VJ card.

But the volume is gonna be about the same because it's spread out over a longer distance.

As the heat sink, it becomes longer.

One fan is gonna get the job done.

You're gonna hot spots where airflow is not adequately going over the fence.

So you and dedicating to fans on there to maximize the amount of downdraft you have going through those fins.

The same exact thing applies with the strict scarred.

Only this what happens to be a two and 1/2 and this is actually 2080.

That 16 60 is not a two and three or 2.75 slot card, but it's the same deal longer heat sink.

That's lower, more spread out more fans across it, and it's gonna be a longer card, Obviously, which means space is gonna be a concern.

But all of these cards in the 16 60 variant or the 16 60 t I variant performed very similar in terms of cooling.

Now, another thing that's different between the baby or the ad inboard partners is going to be their own software in their own bios.

And I'm gonna tell my m s afterburner and GPU tweak and all that sort of stuff.

I'm talking about the bios, the software that drives the cart.

Now India is gonna put out their reference which says, this is the base clock and this is the boost clock.

So base clock being, let's just say, 15 80 megahertz and then a boost clock of 17 80 that basically says that it can automatically over clock itself to 1780 megahertz Now.

What a lot of the board partners will do is they'll add a little bit, too, that if they're cooling, is good and they believe they have a good power delivery system.

Then they'll add more to that.

One might be 18 50 year, 18 20 or whatever.

And what you'll find is there's gonna be, like, 10 or $15 increments between the same model.

So you might find three different models tricks 16 60 T eyes or three different E v g A 16 60 t eyes.

They're gonna probably all have a different cooler design and a different bios allowing different boost ratings now.

What's gonna happen, though his GP boost is also going to come into effect where, if you have a beefed up cooler on there, the logic built into GP Boost, which is an in video technology aimed he has something very similar as well, says that if the power limit is not exceeded and the temperature limit limit is not exceeded and we have more voltage available than allow us to over clock the card automatically so you'll find a lot of these cars will automatically boost into the 1900 megahertz range is sometimes even the 2000 megahertz range because of the temperature, headroom and the things I just mentioned so well, kind of ignore the bios to begin with.

The way the bios ends up coming into play is if you end up exceeding the temperatures or exceeding power limit, then it's gonna go down to those factory boost numbers, which we just mentioned.

So what you're gonna find is reason why some of these cards will perform within a margin of error from each other.

Usually percent or two at the most is because you have different bios, so I sometimes hear people go.

Why does the m s I 16 60 t I get a score of X y z, but the PGA card, which is the same core, gets a different score.

Well, that's what because they have different bios, different boost curves, different p state values and all that sort of stuff.

So what My usual recommendation is is to buy, quite honestly, the cheapest card that you can in the segment with the best cooler that you can afford.

So let me kind of simplify that this is the M S r p E v g a 16 60 right here is the 16.

60 or T.

I don t i o k t eyes right there where I said he's in trouble.

He's in trouble.

We'll figure it out later.

So this right here eyes an M S r P card.

So what that means is, this is this is basically the cheapest one you're gonna find.

They're never gonna come out with a card that's less than M S.

R.

P.

Because there is some price control and stuff that obviously happens behind the scenes in terms of the video and all that stuff there's minimum advertised price would ever talk about retail.

That's that's a different topic.

So what this means is this school is pretty beefy, and what you could do is if you wanted to step this up like to the being the $219 card and you get like the $249 card you're gonna find, it's a longer PCB.

It's a thinner heat sake, just like the twin frozen card.

Here.

It's gonna be dual fans.

But what?

That's also gonna come a little bit more aggressive bios where it's gonna allow itself to over clock a little bit further.

But what you might find is it may be hitting the same exact boost.

Value is this card, because GP boost took over at that point.

So those air features that you may not be even leveraging unless you decide to go in there and manually over clock your card, even father.

But what we found was when we over clocked this card manually.

If you go back and watch our 16 60 t i over clocking guide, the basic card, which is this one right here, exceeded the much more expensive, strict scarred because then it fell down to Silicon Lottery because then we weren't exceeding the cooling.

We turned the fan curve up, and everything performed extremely well in terms of temperatures down into the sixties.

But the silicon lottery we won on the PGA card because it allowed us to push the clock even farther.

So it becomes that question of Am I gonna over clock or am I not?

If you could feel the kind of person that just says I don't want to over clock, that's gonna plug it in and go, then it might not make sense, quite honestly, for you to get the super high end custom cards and this and that because what you're gonna find is there gonna be a lot of features that these air designed for that you're not going to use, like sea over clocking features and the RGB lights and all that sort of stuff.

If you just want a game on a budget and trust me, gaming on a budget exists on the high end as well, because you can buy a $1200.28 e.

T.

I was 20.

You can also buy a $1500 28 e t.

So we're talking $300 difference for features you may not use That applies whether you're at $150 range or the $1500 range, the same concept I'm teaching you right now in terms of how to shop a plot.

The only other obvious thing that you really have to keep in mind is going to be the form factor, because this card in this card clearly are two very different sizes.

If you're running an I T.

X card that's like this, this would be considered 90 x card.

To me, it's a short PCB, but it's super thick.

This may not fit in an I T.

X case very well.

Depending on the thickness, you may only have two slots available to you, because if you're running, what tends to happen on I t.

X Cases is a note.

There's only one slot for PC.

There's one slot in an I T.

X card, so a triple slot may not fit because the case may only have two slots.

So that's something you need to think about so before you go on by like a card like this, that stubby and thick and as three slots.

If you're putting in I t x case, make sure it actually has three of those removable back plates by the PC I slot or you won't be able to fit this so that you may have to go with something like this Any time you go with any of the top end like districts or the for the win or the high end twin frozen like the trio and stuff, these cards obviously are not gonna fit in.