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  • I love fashion.

    譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Michelle Fan

  • I actually go to bed every night thinking about what I'm going to wear

    我愛時尚。

  • the next day.

    我每天晚上上床睡覺時 真的都會想著明天

  • Clothing transforms me,

    我要穿什麼。

  • defines me,

    衣服能改造我、

  • gives me confidence.

    定義我、

  • You may not feel the same way about fashion,

    給我信心。

  • but I bet you have a favorite T-shirt or a pair of jeans that transforms you --

    你對於時尚的感覺可能不同,

  • makes you feel good,

    但我打賭你一定有最愛的 T 恤或牛仔褲,它能夠改造你、

  • makes you feel confident,

    讓你感覺很好、

  • makes you feel like you.

    讓你覺得有自信、

  • When I was younger,

    讓你覺得你在做自己。

  • I wanted to be Betsey Johnson.

    我比較年輕時,

  • I thought we were kindred, crazy-hair spirits together.

    我想成為貝絲強生。 (註:時尚設計師)

  • I did go to fashion design,

    我以為我們都是志趣相投、 頭髮搞怪的人。

  • I worked in the industry for years

    我確實去做了時尚設計,

  • and loved it.

    我在那個產業工作了數年,

  • I married,

    我很喜歡它。

  • I had three kids.

    我結了婚,

  • But life can be heartbreakingly ironic.

    我生了三個孩子。

  • My middle child, Oliver, was born with a rare form of muscular dystrophy,

    但,人生有時諷刺得讓人心碎。

  • or MD.

    我的第二個孩子,奧利佛, 出生時就有一種罕見的肌肉萎縮症,

  • MD affects his muscle strength,

    簡稱 MD。

  • his pulmonary system,

    MD 影響他的肌力、

  • distorts his body

    他的呼吸系統,

  • and makes everyday life more challenging than most.

    扭曲他的身體,

  • From the time he could walk,

    讓他連過日常生活 都比大部分人更辛苦。

  • which wasn't until about two and a half,

    從他能夠走路開始,

  • he had to wear leg braces for stability.

    大約是他兩歲半時,

  • Because he wasn't growing appropriately,

    他得要穿上腿支架來協助穩定。

  • he had to wear a feeding tube that was placed on his face.

    因為他沒有妥善的成長,

  • He endured stares, and so did I.

    他得要戴著鼻餵管,裝在他的臉上。

  • But my husband Greg and I told him

    他要承受別人的目光,我也是。

  • that no matter what,

    但我和我先生葛雷告訴他,

  • he was just like everybody else.

    不論如何,

  • But everyday tasks for Oliver

    他都和其他人一樣。

  • that we all take for granted

    但,我們覺得理所當然的日常差事,

  • were incredibly challenging.

    對奧利佛而言,

  • That simple act of dressing yourself -- the very thing that I adore --

    卻是非常有挑戰性的。

  • was a nightmare for him.

    自己穿衣服,這麼簡單的動作 ——我很喜歡做的動作——

  • His form of MD does not affect his mind.

    卻是他的惡夢。

  • His brain is an A-plus,

    他得的那種 MD 不會影響他的心智。

  • which means he's acutely aware of his shortcomings.

    他的頭腦是 A+ 等級的,

  • This became very evident when he started school,

    那就表示,他能 很敏銳地察覺他的缺陷。

  • and that daily act of dressing yourself was a constant reminder

    當他開始上學時,這狀況就很明顯,

  • of what he could and could not do.

    每天幫自己穿衣服的時候,總會想起

  • So our solution was for Oliver to wear sweatpants every day:

    他能夠做什麼、不能夠做什麼。

  • to school,

    我們為奧利佛想的解決方案, 就是每天穿寬鬆長運動褲:

  • to parties,

    穿去上學、

  • on vacations --

    穿去派對、

  • his uniform.

    穿去渡假——

  • For special occasions, he would wear proper pants.

    那是他的制服。

  • But many times, because he couldn't manage the button and zipper,

    針對特殊的場合, 他會穿得宜的褲子。

  • I would have to take him to the men's room,

    但,好幾次,因為他無法 扣上釦子或拉上拉鏈,

  • which was incredibly embarrassing for him

    我得要帶他去男洗手間,

  • and the other men that were in there.

    這對他而言非常丟臉,

  • But them -- I said, "Oh, please. There's nothing I haven't seen before."

    且男洗手間還有其他男性在。

  • (Laughter)

    但他們——我說:「喔, 拜託。沒什麼我沒見過的。」

  • For years we muddled through.

    (笑聲)

  • But when Oliver was in third grade,

    我們就這樣胡亂應付了很多年。

  • I found out he was more like me than I ever imagined.

    但,當奧利佛上三年級時,

  • Oliver, too, cared about fashion.

    我發現,他比我想像的還要更像我。

  • He came home from school one day and said very definitively

    奧利佛也很關心時尚。

  • that he was going to wear jeans to school like everybody else gets to wear.

    有天,他從學校回來,非常肯定地說

  • Well, I certainly couldn't go to class with him

    他要穿牛仔褲去上學,和大家一樣。

  • and take him to the boys' room,

    嗯,我絕對不可能跟他去上課、

  • but there was no way I was telling my eight-year-old

    帶他去男洗手間,

  • that he couldn't wear what he wanted to wear.

    但我也不可能告訴我的八歲孩子

  • So that night,

    他不能穿他想要穿的。

  • I MacGyvered the hell out of his jeans.

    所以,那晚,

  • I remembered when I was pregnant

    我發揮馬蓋先精神 做出了他的牛仔褲。

  • and unwilling to stop wearing my own favorite pants,

    我記得,當我懷孕時,

  • even though I was busting out of them,

    我不願意放棄穿我最喜歡的褲子,

  • that rubber-band trick.

    雖然我根本無法把自己塞進去了,

  • You moms remember what I'm talking about?

    那橡皮筋絕招。

  • The rubber band through the buttonhole,

    在座的媽媽們知道我在說什麼嗎?

  • around the button and back?

    用橡皮筋穿過釦子洞,

  • Instant stretch.

    繞過釦子纏回來?

  • So I removed the zipper

    立即延伸。

  • so he could pull it up and down on his own.

    所以我把拉鏈移除,

  • I cut up the side seam of the bottom of his pants

    讓他能自己把褲子拉起來和脫下去。

  • to accommodate for his leg braces,

    我剪開褲子底部的側縫

  • applied Velcro --

    讓他的腿支架能放得進去,

  • hold your ears, everybody: peel and stick, mind you --

    加上魔鬼氈,

  • so that it would close around it.

    摀上耳朵,各位: 撕開和黏上,請注意——

  • When I showed Oliver my arts and crafts project,

    這樣就可以把隙縫黏起來。

  • he absolutely beamed.

    當我給奧利佛看我的藝術工藝作品,

  • He went into school with his head held so high.

    他完全是眉開眼笑了。

  • Those jeans transformed him.

    他頭抬得高高的走進學校。

  • He was able to get dressed on his own,

    那件牛仔褲改造了他。

  • he was able to go to the bathroom on his own;

    他能夠靠自己穿脫,

  • those jeans gave him confidence.

    他能夠自己去上廁所;

  • I didn't realize it at the time,

    那件牛仔褲給了他自信。

  • but this was my first foray into the world of adaptive clothing.

    我當時還不知道,

  • Adaptive clothing is defined as clothing designed for people with disabilities,

    但那就是我進入無障礙 衣服世界的初步嘗試。

  • the elderly

    無障礙衣服的定義是 設計的著衣對象是殘疾者、

  • and anyone who struggles with dressing themselves.

    老人,以及任何 自己穿衣服有困難的人。

  • Adaptive clothing did exist,

    無障礙衣服確實存在,

  • but it was missing that mainstream fashion component.

    但它們缺乏了主流時尚的元素。

  • It was very medicinal and very functional

    它們非常醫療取向、非常功能性,

  • but not stylish.

    卻不時髦。

  • And that's a huge problem,

    那是個很大的問題。

  • because what you wear matters.

    因為你的穿著是有重要性的。

  • Clothing can affect your mood,

    衣服能影響你的心情、

  • your health

    你的健康,

  • and your self-esteem.

    以及你的自尊。

  • Now, being a fashion lover, I've known this forever,

    身為時尚愛好者, 我一直都知道這一點,

  • but scientists actually have a name for it.

    但,實際上科學家給它取了名字。

  • It's called "Enclothed Cognition,"

    它叫做「穿衣認知」,

  • the co-occurrence of two factors:

    也就是這兩個因子同時發生:

  • the symbolic meaning of clothing

    衣服的象徵意義,

  • and the physical experience of wearing the clothing,

    以及穿著該衣服的實際體驗,

  • both of which have a direct correlation to how you feel about yourself.

    兩者都和你對自己的感受直接相關。

  • There's actually a professor in the UK by the name of Karen J. Pine.

    在英國,有一位教授 名叫凱倫 J. 佩因。

  • She wrote a book called "Mind What You Wear:

    她寫了一本書,書名是

  • The Psychology of Fashion."

    《留意你穿什麼:時尚心理學》。

  • She states in her book

    在她的書中,她寫到,

  • that when you put clothes on,

    當你穿上衣服時,

  • you adapt the characteristics of what you're wearing,

    你就會調整自己去配合 那件衣服的特徵,

  • whether you realize it or not.

    不論你自己是否有察覺。

  • That's why you feel like a rock star

    那就是為什麼當你 穿上完美合身的牛仔褲時,

  • when you put on those perfect-fitting jeans.

    你會覺得自己像個搖滾巨星。

  • That's why you feel invincible when you put on that power suit,

    那就是為什麼穿上動力服時 你會覺得自己所向無敵,

  • and that's why you feel beautiful

    那就是為什麼你穿著黑色小洋裝時,

  • in that little black dress.

    會覺得自己很美。

  • But that's exactly why Oliver felt so isolated

    但,那也正是為什麼奧利佛 無法穿他想要穿的衣著時,

  • when he couldn't wear what he wanted to wear.

    會如此感到被孤立。

  • He even said to me one time,

    有次,他甚至對我說:

  • "Mom, wearing sweatpants every day

    「媽,每天穿寬鬆長運動褲

  • makes me feel like I'm dressing disabled."

    讓我覺得穿著殘疾。」

  • There are one billion people on our planet

    在地球上有十億人

  • that experience some type of disability.

    有著某種類型的殘疾。

  • One billion.

    十億人。

  • If 10 percent of that billion experience clothing challenges,

    如果那十億人中有 10% 有穿衣服的困難,

  • that's an enormous amount of people that may not be as confident,

    那就表示有相當多人, 其實都沒有達到他們

  • as successful

    應該要能夠達到的

  • or even as happy as they could be.

    自信、成功,或甚至快樂。

  • The morning after Oliver left for school wearing those jeans,

    那個早晨,在奧利佛穿著 牛仔褲出發去學校之後,

  • I realized that I could do something about that.

    我發現,原來我可以 為這個狀況做點貢獻。

  • And so I did.

    於是,我就做了。

  • In 2013, I founded an organization called Runway of Dreams.

    2013 年,我成立了一個組織, 叫做「夢想的伸展台」。

  • The mission was to educate the fashion industry

    組織的使命是要教育時尚產業,

  • that modifications could be made to mainstream clothing

    可以針對主流衣服做些修改,

  • for this community that has never been served.

    來服務這個未曾被服務過的社群。

  • And it began with an entire year of research.

    一開始,我們做了一整年的研究。

  • I went to schools, I went to facilities, I went to hospitals.

    我去拜訪了學校、機構、醫院。

  • I literally chased down people on the street who were in wheelchairs

    我真的上街去尋找坐輪椅的人、

  • or if they had walkers

    用助行器的人,

  • or even if they had a slight limp.

    或甚至有一點跛腳的人。

  • (Laughter)

    (笑聲)

  • I know I must have looked insane,

    我知道我看起來一定像是瘋了,

  • but I knew that if I was really going to make a difference,

    但我知道,如果我 真的想要造成不同,

  • I had to truly understand the clothing challenges

    我就必須要真正了解穿衣服的困難,

  • of as many different people as I possibly could.

    能接觸越多不同的人越好。

  • I met a young man who was 18 who has cerebral palsy.

    我遇到了一個十八歲的 年輕男子,他有大腦性麻痺。

  • He was going to Harvard University.

    他要去唸哈佛大學。

  • He said to me, "Can you imagine?

    他對我說:「你能想像嗎?

  • I got myself into Harvard,

    我拼進了哈佛,

  • but my dream is to be able to wear jeans on campus,

    但我的夢想卻是能 在校園裡穿牛仔褲,

  • like the other freshmen will wear."

    和其他新鮮人一樣。」

  • I met a little girl named Gianna,

    我遇到了一個小女孩吉安娜,

  • who was missing her left forearm and her hand.

    她沒有左前臂和手掌。

  • Her mother told me

    她母親告訴我,

  • she could not bear to see her daughter's difference magnified

    她無法忍受看到懸在 半空的袖子將她女兒的

  • by a dangling sleeve,

    不同之處給放大,

  • so she had every single long-sleeve shirt professionally tailored.

    所以她把每一件長袖衣服 都讓專業的裁縫修改過。

  • Can you imagine the time and money she spent?

    你能想像她花的時間和金錢嗎?

  • I also had the great privilege of spending time with Eric LeGrand,

    我也很榮幸能和艾瑞克樂格德聚首,

  • former Rutgers football player who was paralyzed during a tackle in 2010.

    前羅格斯的美式足球員,2010 年 因為比賽中的擒抱摔倒而癱瘓。

  • I had, at this point, seen some unfathomable things,

    在這個時點,我已經看過 一些不可理解的事了,

  • but this, by far, was the most heart-stopping.

    但,他的情況, 是目前為止最驚心動魄的。

  • You see, Eric is a really big guy,

    艾瑞克是個高大的傢伙,

  • and it took two aides and a lifting machine

    要用到兩個助手和一台起重機

  • to get him dressed.

    才能幫他穿好衣服。

  • I sat and watched this process for over two hours.

    我坐著看這個過程看了超過兩小時。

  • When I expressed my shock to Eric,

    當我向艾瑞克表示我的震驚時,

  • he looked at me and said,

    他看著我,說:

  • "Mindy, this is every single day.

    「敏蒂,這是每天的日常。

  • What can I say?

    我能說什麼?

  • I like to look sharp."

    我想要看起來很時髦。」

  • Research done.

    研究完成。

  • I knew that if I was going to make a change in the industry,

    我知道,如果我想要 在這個產業中造成改變,

  • I had to use my background

    我得要用上我的背景,

  • and really figure out how to make these clothes modified.

    並真正去想個辦法來修改這些衣服。

  • So I took the information I gathered over that past year,

    所以,靠著過去一年收集到的資訊,

  • and I figured out that there were actually three categories

    我發現,全面來看,其實有三種類別

  • that were affected across the board.

    會受到影響。

  • The first were closures.

    第一類是闔起來。

  • Buttons, snaps, zippers, hook-and-eyes were a challenge for almost everybody.

    釦子、四合釦、拉鏈、鉤釦 對幾乎所有人來說都是很困難的。

  • So I replaced them with a more manageable technology:

    所以,我用更好處理的 技術來取代它們:

  • magnets.

    磁鐵。

  • Magnets made our Harvard freshman able to wear jeans on campus,

    磁鐵讓我們的哈佛新鮮人 能夠在校園裡穿著牛仔褲,

  • because he could dress himself.

    因為他自己就能穿上。

  • Second: adjustability.

    第二類:可調整性。

  • Pant lengths, sleeve lengths, waistbands

    褲長、袖長、腰帶

  • were a challenge for so many different-shaped bodies.

    對於這麼多種不同形狀的 身體而言是個挑戰。

  • So I added elastic,

    所以,我加上了鬆緊帶,

  • an internal hemming system.

    以及一個內部摺邊系統。

  • This way, Gianna could wear a shirt right off the rack

    用這種方式,吉安娜就 能夠穿現成的衣服了,

  • and just adjust the one sleeve.

    只要調整一隻袖子就好。

  • Last: alternate ways to get the clothing on and off the body,

    最後一類:穿脫衣服的替代方式,

  • outside the traditional way of over your head.

    不同於傳統從頭上穿脫的方式。

  • So I designed a way to go in arms first.

    所以我設計了一個方式, 從手臂先穿進去。

  • This, for somebody like Eric,

    對於像艾瑞克這樣的人,

  • could actually take five steps off his dressing process

    這設計就能讓他的穿衣 過程少掉五個步驟,

  • and give him back the gift of time.

    讓他省下寶貴的時間。

  • So I went out,

    所以,我出去買了現成的衣服,

  • I bought clothing right off the rack,

    坐在我家餐桌旁把這些衣服解體,

  • I sat at my kitchen table, ripped them apart,

    我做了一個又一個原型, 直到我覺得修改得夠棒為止。

  • did prototype after prototype, until I felt I had great modifications.

    接著,我準備好要進大聯盟了:

  • And then I was ready for the big leagues:

    時尚業。

  • the fashion industry.

    不是去設計我自己的系列作品,

  • Rather than designing my own collection,

    我知道如果真想造成不同,

  • I knew if I was really going to make a difference,

    我得要進入主流。

  • I had to go mainstream.

    我相信,我只需要讓這個產業知道

  • I believed that I just needed to educate the industry

    這類人口的數量有多巨大,

  • of the enormity of this population

    且這些人都是消費者,

  • and the fact that these were consumers

    沒有被考量到的消費者。

  • that simply weren't being considered.

    而我非常高興能夠告訴各位, 這個產業聽到了我的聲音。

  • And I am thrilled to say that the industry heard me.

    「夢想的伸展台」的合作夥伴

  • Runway of Dreams collaborated with the most amazing,

    是地球上最了不起、 最有前瞻性思維的品牌。

  • forward-thinking brand on our planet --

    (掌聲)

  • (Applause)

    他們把我的遠景帶到市場上,

  • who took my vision to market

    寫下了時尚的歷史新頁,

  • and made fashion history

    推出了第一個主流無障礙系列。

  • by launching the first mainstream adaptive collection.

    還有其他的在後頭呢。

  • And the rest is yet to come.

    (掌聲)

  • (Applause)

    所以,

  • So --

    (掌聲)

  • (Applause)

    時尚掌握著維生的生命線。

  • Fashion holds the key to a vital lifeline.

    衣服是有改造作用的。

  • Clothing can be transformative.

    衣服等同信心。

  • Clothing equals confidence.

    所以,明天,

  • So tomorrow,

    當你開始你的一天,

  • when you are starting your day

    你在想著你要穿什麼,

  • and you're thinking about what you're going to wear,

    我希望你能夠珍惜這個過程,

  • I hope you appreciate the process

    然後想想看,你選擇的穿著

  • and think about how what you chose

    讓你有什麼樣的感覺。

  • makes you feel.

    今天,奧利佛十三歲了。

  • Today, Oliver is 13.

    他穿著無障礙卡其褲、

  • He wears his adaptive khakis,

    前面有磁鐵釦的上衣-

  • his magnetic button-front shirt --

    覺得自己是附近最酷的孩子。

  • feels like the coolest kid around.

    我的孩子昂首闊步、神氣活現。

  • My boy has total swagger.

    (笑聲)

  • (Laughter)

    如我先前提到的,

  • As I mentioned,

    奧利佛的疾病是退化性的,

  • Oliver's disease is degenerative,

    也就是說,他的肌肉 會隨著時間越來越糟。

  • which means his muscles are going to break down over time.

    目前,這是最讓我悲痛的部分。

  • This, by far, is the most devastating part for me.

    我得要旁觀,

  • I have to sit on the sidelines

    看著我的孩子狀況惡化。

  • and watch my boy deteriorate.

    我什麼也做不了。

  • And there's nothing I can do about it.

    所以,我抬起頭向前看, 把焦點從我無法控制的事情上移開,

  • So I am looking up from the things that I cannot control

    看向我能控制的事情上,

  • to the things that I can,

    因為我沒有選擇。

  • because I have no option.

    所以,我向前看。

  • And so, I am looking up.

    我也請求時尚業一起向前看。

  • And I'm asking the fashion industry to look up.

    現在,我也請在座所有人,

  • And now, I'm asking all of you

    也一起向前看。

  • to look up, too.

    謝謝。

  • Thank you.

    (掌聲)

  • (Applause)

I love fashion.

譯者: Lilian Chiu 審譯者: Michelle Fan

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    Zenn 發佈於 2021 年 01 月 14 日
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