Name: 牛津鞋大解密！你知道不同的牛津鞋怎麼穿嗎？ (Oxford Shoes Guide - How To Wear, Buy & Combine Men's Oxfords)
Uploaded: 2017-10-19T04:00:00.000Z
Duration: 7 min 9 s

Welcome back to The Gentleman's Gazette! Today's video is all about oxfords,

歡迎回到 The Gentleman's Gazette 頻道！今天的影片要來聊聊牛津鞋

one of the most classic, timeless and versatile shoes a man can have.

是男人所能擁有最經典、永恆並且百搭的鞋款之一

情態副詞

Its history dates back centuries and if you want to learn all the details about it,

它的歷史可以追溯回幾個世紀前，如果你想了解所有細節

please check out our in-depth guide on our website, here.

First, it's defined by its quarters which are closed unlike a derby where they're open.

首先，他的鞋襟是封閉的，不像德比鞋是開放的

Then we have a vamp like here, the ankle is exposed.

接著這邊有個鞋面，踝部是開放的

Usually have a cap-toe and a center seam.

To learn more about the details of an oxford and how it differs from a derby or a blucher, please check out this video.

想知道更關於牛津與德比鞋和布呂歇爾鞋不同之處的細節，你可以看這部影片

As explained, the oxford is just defined by these few characteristics and as such,

正如我們所解釋，牛津鞋是被這些特徵定義的，而符合這些特徵的牛津鞋

there are many different kinds out there.

Let's do a run through so you know exactly what is what.

就讓我們簡單帶過一遍，讓你知道到底每種牛津鞋長什麼樣子

The first and most important oxford you should have is the so-called cap-toe oxford,

第一種，也是你最應該擁有的一種牛津鞋是所謂的趾帽牛津鞋

and it's called that way because it has the cap-toe.

Basically, what you're looking for is a shoe with a cap-toe,

基本上，你要找的，就是有趾帽

no broguing which means no hole perforations that's all black with neat lines and elegant last.

沒有雕花，意味著鞋面沒有任何穿孔，全黑並有著整潔的線條並發散出優雅

This is in fact, the very first black oxford I bought as a teenager

這實際上是，我十幾歲時買的第一雙黑色牛津鞋

and I still have it today simply because it's so timeless and versatile.

正因為它是如此的永恆、百搭，直到現在我仍保有著它

The second shoe you can have is the plain oxford. Basically, it's like a cap-toe oxford,

你可以擁有的第二雙鞋是素牛津，基本上，它就像趾帽牛津鞋

it just lacks the cap-toe and sometimes you can see a medallion on them but then it's not a plain oxford anymore.

只是它沒有趾帽，而你有時候可以在鞋身上看到一個圓形雕飾，但這樣一來它就不再是素牛津了

Usually, the plain oxford is favored in patent leather for evening shoes so you can wear it with a tuxedo.

通常來說，大家喜愛適合傍晚穿著的漆皮革製素牛津，你可以與無尾禮服搭配

So, how should you wear these oxfords? Like I said, first one should be in black.

所以，你該怎麼穿這些牛津鞋呢？就像我說的，你的第一雙應該是黑牛津

If you have another cap-toe oxford, you can go with a solid, dark brown one that's going to be versatile, or burgundy.

如果你有另一雙趾帽牛津，可以選擇穩重的、深褐色的牛津，它將會很百搭，或是棗紅色的

Plain oxfords are best in patent leathers for evening wear and nothing else.

素牛津最適合漆皮革製，最好就是搭配傍晚的服飾

The third oxford on our list is the so-called wingtip oxford or brogue.

我們清單上的第三雙就是所謂的翼尖牛津或雕花鞋

Basically, what that means, it has a wingtip in front that is like a W,

基本上，它的意思就是，它的前緣有 W 形翼尖

and we did an entire video just about this kind of style so, take a look at it, here.

而我們也做過一整部關於雕花風格的介紹影片，所以你可以點擊這裡觀看

The fourth kind of oxford is the so-called saddle oxford or saddle shoe.

第四雙牛津是所謂的鞍牛津或鞍鞋

It has the same closed lacing system but it has a middle strip of leather which is called a saddle.

它有著相同封閉式的花邊系統，但它有著一條中央皮革，稱為「鞍」

It's particularly popular in the US, and outside the US, it never really caught on.

它在美國特別流行，但一離開美國，就沒有人會欣賞它了

It's a more casual style, and I suggest you only wear it if you're big into Americana,

它的風格比較不正式，我建議你去到美國再穿

or you just want to create a preppy outfit. Otherwise, it looks out of place.

或是你只是想打造一種學院風格，不然的話，它看起來格格不入

The next oxford is the so-called kiltie oxford.

It's very rare and it actually has an additional tongue on the outside

它非常少見，外部有著一片附加的鞋舌

which looks a little bit like a kilt hence the name and it's sometimes seen on golf shoes.

看起來有一點點像蘇格蘭短裙因而得名，有時候可以在高爾夫球鞋上見到

Other than that, I really don't suggest you wear the kiltie unless you have a very specific look in mind

不過，我實在不太建議你穿流蘇牛津除非你心中有很明確的穿搭想法

but it looks very special and unique and people will definitely ask you about it.

它看起來非常的特別、獨特，而人們一定會詢問你的

A very elegant form of the oxford is the so-called whole cut.

另一種非常優雅的牛津鞋是全裁片牛津

It's called that way because it is cut from one whole piece of leather.

它因為由一整片的皮革去剪裁製做而得名

Generally, it has just one center seam in the back and it's very popular these days.

通常來說，它只有鞋跟中心的一條接合縫線，現在非常的流行

The only problem with the whole cut is that if it's made out of a ready to wear shoe oftentimes,

全裁片唯一的問題是，如果它時常被以成鞋的方式製造

it wrinkles more easily simply because it's one piece of leather that is shaped to your last

就更容易產生皺摺，因為這一片皮革到最後才被塑造成你的腳型

so keep that in mind when you invest in one.

所以下次你要投資一雙全裁片牛津時，可以稍微想一下

The next step up from the whole cut is the so-called seamless oxford,

全裁片的下一雙是所謂的無縫線牛津

and all that means is that there's actually not a single seam

意思就是它沒有任何一條縫合線

so you have to get a very good hide that adjusts to the entire last,

所以你必須在最後依據整體形狀非常巧妙地隱藏縫線

and that's why it's only something you often see in bespoke shoes.

而這就是為什麼你通常只能在預約鞋款中看到它

Seamless and whole cuts are very sleek and elegant shoes that sometimes,

無縫線和全裁片是非常圓滑、優雅的鞋子，因而有時候

they have a medallion on top and you can wear them with suits

它們鞋面上會有圓形雕飾，你可以搭配西裝穿著

but if you have them in brown and burgundy colors, also with sportcoat combinations.

不過如果你選擇褐色或棗紅色的牛津，也很適合搭配運動外套

Overall though, I'd say it's more in the formal end of things

然而整體來說，我會說它們是比較偏正式的配件

just because of the clean line and the lack of seams.

因為它們乾淨的線條和縫線的缺乏

Another type of Oxford is the so-called U tip and it's similar to a wing tip

另一種牛津是所謂的 U 型牛津，他與 W 型翼紋牛津非常相似

but it has that U shape when you look at it from the top.

但當你從上方看下去時，它是 U 型的

It often comes as a spectator, as you can see here, with two tones,

它通常是雙色滾邊鞋，就像你現在可以看到的，它有兩種色調

and basically, it's a very loud shoe, it's unusual shoe and therefore,

且基本上，它非常的花俏、獨特，也因此

it's only suggested if you want to create an outfit that is defined and that catches people's eyes.

只有在你想營造有吸引力的、引人注目的裝扮時我才會建議你穿

That being said, one of the ways to get really a lot out of your oxfords is to change the color of your shoelaces.

話雖如此，要讓你的牛津更有變化的其中一個方式是去更換鞋帶的顏色

While a pair of shoes can cost you $200, $300 or $2000,

當一雙牛津要價 200、300 甚至 2000 美金時

a pair of shoelaces cost about ten bucks and it can really change the entire look.

一對鞋帶只花費你 10 塊美金，並且可以完全地改變它的樣貌

This brown shoe here looks very different with yellow laces.

這邊這雙褐色鞋搭配黃色鞋帶看起來非常的不一樣

For example, you can add green or red or just brown laces and basically,

舉例來說，你可以添加綠色、紅色或褐色鞋帶，而基本上

with a simple twist, you get an entirely different shoe and it makes the shoe more casual.

透過小小的改變，你可以獲得一雙完全不同的鞋，並且讓它更加隨興一些

If you want to invest in some oxfords to start,

如果你想從入手一些牛津鞋開始

I suggest you get a black cap toe oxford with black shoelaces and then a few other colors

我建議你買黑色的趾帽牛津搭配黑色及其他顏色的鞋帶

such as red or yellow or burgundy, and even purple works.

比如說紅色、黃色、棗紅色，甚至紫色也行得通

As a second shoe, I suggest you get a half brogue or full brogue, mid brown oxford,

第二雙鞋我則推薦你買一雙半雕花或全雕花的中褐色牛津

and if you want to go a step further, you can get either a tan or a burgundy red one.

如果你想再進一步，你還可以再買一雙黃褐色或棗紅色的牛津

For example, these two would be good options for first two shoes.

舉例來說，這兩雙很適合做為你的前兩雙牛津

As you grow your shoe collection, you can expand in more unusual models

當你要增加你的收藏時，你可以擴張到更獨特的類型

such as this white, full brogue which is great in summer,

比如說這雙很適合夏天的白色全雕花牛津

or this spectator shoe which looks great with a plain, navy suit, or striped suit.

或是這雙非常適合素色、海軍藍色套裝或者條文套裝的雙色滾邊鞋

Of course, there are lots of other color combinations for oxfords,

當然，牛津鞋還有更多配色的可能

and since it's such a classic, versatile, and timeless last and style,

且因為它有如此經典、百搭和永恆的風格

you will find basically anything under the sun.

你可以在這普天之下找到任何的搭配可能

If you want to find out what brands we recommend, please check out our in-depth guide,

如果你想知道我們推薦什麼品牌，請參考我們的深度指南

and if you want to buy high-quality colorful shoelaces in round and flat and different shapes,

如果你想買各色的、圓形、扁型或其他形狀的高品質鞋帶

Make sure to check out the article because no matter your budget,

請一定要來看看我們的文章，因為不論你的預算在哪

we have an option for low, middle, and high-end.

我們提供低、中、高價位的選擇