a lot of well-dressed people carrying iPhones.

有很多穿的很好看的人，手裡拿著iPhone。

Or, if you go to Osaka,

或者如果你到大阪，

you see people with their Louis Vuitton.

你可能會看到人們提著他們的LV。

Everything looks fine.

一切看起來還不錯，

And, of course, it is fine.

而且，當然，是真的都不錯。

Japan is a very wealthy country

日本是個富足的國家，

with one of the strongest economies in the world.

是世界上數一數二的經濟體；

But there is a problem, and it's called depopulation.

但是卻面臨著一個問題：人口過稀（Depopulation）。

If you travel a little bit outside of the cities,

如果你離開都市，去四處走走，

it'll look like this. This is what we call the shuttered towns.

你會看到這樣的景觀，我們稱之為歇閉鎮。

The farther you go into the country side,

而你越往郊外走，

the more severe it is because there is inequality.

這情形便越嚴重。

Japan is losing population, but not equally.

這是因為不平均現象的存在。

The big cities are actually thriving.

日本的人口正在流失，但並非平均的減少。

Small cities are in big trouble.

大城市越來越繁榮，

In fact, you see something like this,

而小村鎮則陷入困境。

houses broken down, streets with nobody walking on them.

事實上你會看到這樣的景象：

In the very little towns, it's quite severe.

崩塌的房屋、無人行走的街衢。

We did a styrofoam model

在很小的村落裡，這樣的情形挺嚴重的。

of this little fishing village in the Inland Sea.

我們用保麗龍做了

We painted the houses where people are living in red

一個在瀨戶內海旁的小漁村的模型。

where you can see that this town is about to die.

我們將有人居住的房屋塗成紅色，

The Japanese government has been aware of the problem,

這麼一來你可以看到，這個村子正逐步消亡。

but unfortunately the policy for 50 years was building things.

日本政府已經意識到這個問題，

"Let's cover the country in concrete.

然而不幸地，這五十年的政策旨在建造東西。

Let's do something about the rivers, build highways, dams

「讓我們用水泥覆蓋整個國家！」

turn even small streams into little shoots.

「讓我們處理一下這些河流，[br]建造高速公路和水壩，

Every year add another patch."

把本來就不大的河川變成涓涓細流，

Here, you can see what happened last year and what's going on this year.

每年都在修修補補。」

Huge highways that are built for no particular purpose.

你可以從這看到去年發生了些甚麼，[br]以及今年即將發生甚麼－－

You can see on this one, which cost billions of dollars, no traffic at all.

毫無目的地興建高速公路。

(Laughter)

這個建案花了幾十億元，[br]上頭卻空無一人。

It wasn't just civil engineering.

（笑聲）

It was also monument building.

不光是土木工程，

The idea was if you could cover the whole town in concrete,

也興建了紀念館。

that would somehow make it modern and it would thrive.

這種概念是，若能把整個城鎮都蓋滿水泥建築，

They built museums like this one

某方面來說就會讓它更加現代化而繁盛。

that drove this poor little town into bankruptcy.

他們因此建造了像這樣的博物館，

Or, the Gold Tower that nobody knows what to do with.

導致這窮困的小鎮破產。

(Laughter)

還有這座金塔，根本沒人知道要拿它做些甚麼。

And, I love this mosque-like... This isn't Iraq,

（笑聲）

this is Tsushima, a little town of 1,500 people

噢還有，我喜歡這個長得像清真寺的…[br]我們又不在伊拉克！

where they spent 20 million dollars to build something like this.

這是在對馬島，一個只有1,500人的小鎮，

And, what happened is, that in the meantime,

他們花了兩千萬元，[br]就為了蓋出一個像這樣的東西。

sadly, it didn't work.

然而同時，令人悲傷的是，

The people left the villages, agriculture collapsed,

這無濟於事。

forestry collapsed, and so then, they poured more concrete in.

人們離開村落，

Is there not another way?

農業瓦解、林業瓦解，

Here, I want to step back and become a little personal.

而他們只是倒入更多水泥。

I came to Japan as a little boy in 1964 with my family.

難道沒有別的辦法？

That's almost 50 years ago.

現在，我想退一步，談一些關於我的事情。

And, then later, when I was in college I hitchhiked all over Japan.

我和家人來到日本時還是個小男孩，[br]那是1964年的事了。

Like a lot of young people, I was looking for my Shangri-La.

如今都過了快五十年了。

And, I was really lucky because I found it.

之後，當我上了大學，我用搭便車跑遍全日本。

It's this magic place called Iya,

就像很多年輕人一樣，我在找尋我的香格里拉。

which is a very distant, remote part of Japan.

我真的很幸運，因為我找到了。

It's in the mountains of Shikoku.

它是祖谷溪（Iya），一個具有魔力的地方。

Shikoku to this day is the least visited

它位於日本很偏遠的地區，

of the big four islands of Japan.

在四國的群山之中。

Even within Shikoku, Iya is deep in the hills.

四國到今日都仍是日本四大島中

This is where the Heike warriors escaped in the 12th century.

最少人踏足的地方。

It was so remote.

縱使已經是在四國，[br]祖谷溪還位於群山深處。

Sometimes they call it Japan's Grand Canyon.

它是日本鎌倉時代[br]平氏戰士避難的地方，

I love this place and I noticed

它真的很偏遠；

back in the 70s that it was already depopulated.

有時人們稱它為日本的大峽谷。

There were abandoned houses all over the place.

我鍾愛此地，而且我發現

I thought, "Gosh, I'm a poor student, but I could maybe own one of these."

早在1970年代，這裡的人口便已日益減少，

So, I started looking around and I found this

到處都有無人居住的房子。

which I bought in 1973.

我心想：「天啊，雖然我只是個窮學生，[br]但說不定我可以擁有其中一間房子！」

We named the house Chiiori.

所以我開始四處尋找，然後發現這一間，

I talked to the villagers and they sold it to me for 1,500 dollars.

於是我在1973年買下它。

The land.

我們把它命名為箎庵（Chiiori）。

The house was junk, worthless.

當時我問了村民，然後他們以 1,500 元賣給我，

So I got the house for free.

僅僅只算土地的錢，

But actually this house is 300 years old.

因為房子太破舊了，不值錢。

And, it's more than 300 years old.

所以我算是免費得到這房子。

It's actually thousands of years old, the lifestyle here,

但事實上這房子已經 300 歲了，

it goes back before the Japan we think we know,

或也可以說遠超過 300 歲。

before tatami and before rice.

這樣的生活型態已經延續超過千年。

You see these wooden floors.

源頭遠在我們認知中的日本之前，

There's a floor hearths, the irori floor hearths,

在榻榻米之前、在米飯之前。

which is like having a camp fire in the middle of your living room.

看看這些木質地板，

(Laughter)

這裡有個地爐，一個庵爐[br]（囲炉裏；Irori floor hearths），

But smoke comes out of it and it turns everything black.

有點像是位在客廳正中央的營火。

So, even the ceiling is black.

（笑聲）

We re-thatched the house over the years,

但煙會竄出來，把所有東西都燻黑，

but originally I had no money, I couldn't even afford thatch.

連屋頂都是黑色的，

So we got old thatch from a house they were tearing down.

所以這幾年來我們經常要為屋頂換茅。

And, you can see, I look like I came out of...

但一開始我很窮，無法負擔茅的錢，

a sooty old thatch, coiming out of a coal mine

所以我們去拿正在被拆掉的[br]老房子的茅來用，

The thing about this house, though, is that's fast forward decades.

你看看，我看起來好像剛從......

We got tens of thousands of visitors.

扛著這些被煤煙燻過的茅，[br]我好像剛從礦坑出來一樣。

So much so that our prefecture, which is called Tokushima,

然而關於這房子的是，這數十年來，

looked at their statistics and they said,

我們迎接了上萬名旅客。

"There are all these foreigners coming to Tokushima. Why?

人數多到這裡的市政府，德島市政府，

Oh they're going to Iya, but why?

研究了一下他們的統計資料然後說，

They are going to this place called Chiiori. Where? What?"

「到底為什麼有這麼多的[br]外國人要來德島市呢？」

So, they called us up and they said, "Why?

「他們是為了來祖谷溪啊，但是為什麼呢？」

You don't have a big Gold Tower and you don't have a huge Kangei Hall.

「哦，他們是要去祖谷溪的箎庵。[br]什麼啊？在哪裡啊？」

You don't have a highway. You don't have all these great things.

所以他們把我們叫過去，然後問：「為什麼？」

What do they come for?"

「你們那裏又沒有金塔，也沒有氣派的迎賓廳，

And, I said, "Well, it's what I call

沒有高速公路，什麼都沒有，

the appeal of nothing special."

他們到底來幹嘛呢？」

That's actually pretty big.

我回答道：「嗯，這正是我所說的

Actually our slogan in Iya today is

『一無所有的魅力』。」

(Japanese): "There is nothing".

這種魅力其實很大！

What that means is, for example, if you're traveling to go to Paris,

事實上現在祖谷溪的宣傳標語是：

of course, you want to see Louvre and Notre Dame,

「（日文）這裡什麼都沒有！」

but once you've done that, the joy of Paris

它的意義是，舉例來說，如果你到巴黎旅行，

is walking in the little back streets, taking in the air.

你當然會去看看羅浮宮、看看聖母大教堂，

That's the true appeal of a place.

但當你結束這些行程後，享受巴黎的方式

And, of course, that's what people come to Iya for.

其實是在小後巷裡散步、呼吸那兒的空氣。

This is the magic.

這才是一個地方真正的吸引力。

I started thinking, "My God, this country is covered

當然，這也就是人們之所以來祖谷溪的原因。

with tens of thousands of abandoned houses.

這就是祖谷溪的魔力。

Thousands of them even better than Chiiori.

我開始想：「我的天啊，這個國家裡

Couldn't we do this in other places?"

充滿了數以萬計的空房子。

So, I started doing regional projects.

而其中大概有幾千棟都比箎庵來的好。

One of the first ones I did is in this little island called Ojika.

我們難道不能在其他地方也如法炮製嗎？」

Ojika is what I call the Iya on the sea

所以我開始以區域計畫著手。

because it's even harder to get to than Iya.

其中一個我最開始進行的，[br]是一個叫做小值賀町的島嶼。

It's way off the coast of Kyushu.

我稱小值賀町為海上的祖谷溪，

It's so hard to get to

因為它甚至比祖谷溪還要難以到達。

that this is where the Hidden Christians escaped.

它在離九州海邊很遠的地方，

When Christianity was banned they went on this island

非常難以到達。

and built their little church and hid there,

它是16、 17世紀，當基督教被禁止時，

practiced there for 300 years until the banners left it.

基督徒躲起來的地方。

But this town is in terrible shape, detoured, losing population.

他們在這裡建造了[br]這個小巧的教堂然後躲在這，

They've built museums and highways.

在這裡修道，直到三百年後禁令解除。

They did all that and it didn't work.

但這個小鎮如今陷入窘境：[br]沒有觀光客、人口流失。

So we got together with the town.

他們已經建造了博物館和高速公路，

We came up with a project

做了所有事情，卻於事無補。

to redo 7 old houses and one restaurant.

所以我們一起來到了這個小鎮，

Of course, when we find the houses, the floor is falling in,

然後想出了一個計劃，

the roof is leaking, they are a mess.

來改造七棟房屋和一間餐廳。

But it can indeed be fixed up,

當然，當我們找到這些房屋時，

as you can see from this, restored Japanese traditional zashiki.

地板塌陷、屋頂斜傾，就是一場大混亂。

But here is where I want to step back for a minute and just say

但它們的確可以被修復，

I'm not a curator,

如你所見，我們保存了傳統的日式客廳（zashiki）。

and I'm not a professor, and I'm not trying to say

但在這我想先退一步，簡短聲明一下，

"This is how it was in Edo. This is how it was in Meiji."

我並不是一個策劃經理人，

I am not interested in making a museum.

也不是教授。我也不是要告訴你們

You know, some kind of a show-piece.

「以前江戶長這樣、以前明治長這樣。」

What I want to do is bring these houses into the modern age

我並不是要建造博物館，

because that's the only way that they can live.

不是那種展示中心。

What you don't see in this photo is under that tatami is redone wiring,

我想做的是把這些房屋帶到現代來，

completely redone plumbing,

因為這才是它們得以生存下來的方式。

insulation, lighting, heating, cooling.

從這圖片你看不到的是，[br]在榻榻米以下的是重新接上的電纜、

All these things that make it possible for modern people to actually be there.

完全重新建造的排水管、

And, you have to do more than just this

絕緣系統、電燈、暖爐、冷氣，

because modern Japanese don't sit on the tatami anymore, right?

這些東西的存在[br]讓現代人真的可以住在這。

So how can you enjoy a beautiful house

當然，除此之外也有別的要著手，

in a way that fits your modern lifestyle?

因為現代的日本人[br]不再坐在榻榻米上了，對吧？

Well, next to that tatami room, we built this Western sunken living room.

所以我們該如何用現代人的生活方式

Which was maybe too successful because people just hang around here

在一間美麗的房子裡享樂呢？

and they never actually go into that beautiful zashiki.

在榻榻米房的隔壁，我們蓋了這間有沉降地板的西式房間。

And, the puzzles, always, with these houses are,

可能它設計得太好了，[br]導致人們就一直待在這，

I was told, "Alex, you can't build the table here

而不去那間漂亮的傳統日式客廳。

because there is this column."

而關於這些房子總是有些難題，

Well, we built it. (Laughter)

人們告訴我：「亞歷克斯，[br]你不能把桌子蓋在這裡，

The other thing I tried to do is what I call a modern intervention.

因為這裡有這根柱子。」

By that I mean valuing the traditional space,

嗯，我們還是蓋了。[br]（笑聲）

but let's do something that's completely new and modern about it

另一件我試圖要做的事情，[br]我稱之為現代干預。

and really make people feel

我的意思是，珍視傳統空間，

that they are in the now not just in the past.

但同時也做些全新的、現代化的東西，

So here was the long room that was going to become the restaurant.

好讓人們真的覺得

What we did was we bought this 7 meter-long table.

他們是活在現代而非古代。

We call it a long table, long table for a long room.

所以這就是要變成餐廳的[br]長型房間原本的模樣，

You can actually sit under there, you can put your legs down and sit.

我們所做的事情是[br]買了一個七公尺長的桌子。

And it turned this place -- although it's an old space -- into a very new space.

我們稱這個桌子為長桌，長型房間配長桌。

This is our restaurant in Ojika at night.

事實上你可以坐在它下面，[br]我是說把腳伸下去然後坐好。

Back in Iya, which has exactly the same problems,

而這把這個其實很古老的房間，[br]變得煥然一新。

we were doing a project with the town,

這是我們在小值賀町的餐廳晚上的模樣。

and we are doing 8 houses there.

回到也面臨相同問題的祖谷溪，

We started with a hamlet called Ochiai,

我們正致力於關於村鎮的計畫，

which is about a 20-minute drive from my place.

重建其中八間房子。

And it's way up, you can get vertigo just by standing there.

我們從落合村落（Ochiai）下手，

Our very first house was this one,

距離我家大約20分鐘。

which is "you take one look and want to give up really".

落合村落海拔超級高，[br]光是站在那你就可能頭暈。

(Laughter)

我們的第一個任務就是這間房子，

But it's 200 years old and has an incredible structure.

是那種看一眼就想直接放棄的類型。

So, what do you do?

（笑聲）

You had the leanings and they had to be straightened.

但是，它已經兩百歲了，[br]而且其建築構造令人驚豔。

You take it down to its original structure,

所以該怎麼做呢？

rebuild the roof and rethatch.

房子有許多傾斜之處，而它們勢必要被處理。

And here is another thing I want to say,

得將它們拆除到只剩最原始的構造，

people think restoring these houses

再重新建造屋頂、鋪上茅草。

is "miya daiku", traditional carpentry all the way.

我還要談另一件事，

But that's not my approach.

人們認為保存這些房屋[br]就和「宮大工（miya-daiku）」一樣，

We're using thatch because it's part of history and culture of Iya,

全都是利用傳統木工。

but we are also using water-retardant materials for the roof.

但這並非我的作法。

This is what it looks outside.

我們之所以使用茅草是因為[br]這是祖谷溪歷史與文化的一部分，

Here, you can see where the insulation is going on the inside.

但同時我們也用防水材質做屋頂。

When the house is done,

這是它的外觀。

you have this traditional Iya-type floor with the floor hearth.

你可以看到內部的隔離措施是怎麼做的。

You have the view, this incredible view over that valley,

當房子蓋好，

but right next to it you've got a place with a kitchen and a table and a chair.

它有傳統的祖谷溪式地板，以及地爐；

You can have your morning coffee.

也可以遠眺山谷絕美的景色。

You can be at home.

但就在這旁邊，也設有廚房及桌椅，

This is what we started with.

清晨時可以在這裡享用咖啡，

This is what we ended with.

你完全可以像待在家一樣。

You can see it's the same house. (Chuckles)

這是計畫開始前的房子，

(Applause)

而這是我們的成果。

It took it from being unlivable to being livable.

你看它的確是同一間房屋啊。[br]（輕笑聲）

In the meantime,

（掌聲）

I've done dozens of houses all over this country.

改造計畫讓這間原本[br]不能住人的房子變得適合居住。

And, the funny thing is that my own house was pretty much the last one.

同時，遍及日本，我改造了數十間房子。

We finally got around to it last year.

而有趣的是，我自己的房子[br]大概被排到最後一間。

So, this is Chiiori as it had been.

我們去年總算有時間改造它了。

We took off the roof.

這是以前的箎庵。

We rethatched.

我們把屋頂拆除、

We called in a thatcher.

重新鋪上茅草、

And here again, we went from this,

找來了專業的師傅，

to this.

然後，就像之前一樣，箎庵從這樣......

And, I love my beautiful new thatched roof,

變成這樣。

but I think what I love maybe more

我非常喜愛我這新的茅草屋頂，

are my beautiful, double-paned glass windows.

但我想我更喜歡的是

Because what that means is we can sit in this house

那些雙格玻璃窗。

and watch the snow coming down and be in comfort.

有了它們，下雪時[br]我就可以舒適地坐在家賞雪。

Here is the restored living room

這是翻修後的客廳，

which looks exactly like the old living room,

看起來就像原本的一模一樣。

but under those floors is under-floor heating.

但就在地板之下，設有地下暖爐。

We have a proper kitchen.

我們也建了一般的廚房、

We've put in proper toilets.

一般的廁所－－

This is maybe the most important photograph you'll see today.

這可能是你今天看到最重要的一張照片了。

(Laughter)

（笑聲）

And the bath.

也有浴室。

And, the thing about it is, why do all this?

重點是：為什麼要做這些事情？