字幕列表 影片播放 列印英文字幕 >> LAURENT: Hi. I'm Laurent. >> PHILIP: And I'm Philip. >> LAURENT: And we're going to try and show you how to do some homebrewing today! >> LAURENT (VO): We're going to start by steeping these specialty grains, which means they need to soak for about 10-15 minutes In water that's about 150 to 160 degrees So, we do this in the kitchen, with a smaller pot That allows us to get this started And start the rest of the water in a bigger pot, out in the garage >> LAURENT (VO): Time to fire up the beast! We do our boils in a 10-gallon pot We'll be boiling around 9 gallons, once it gets going And, especially at that volume, Having a propane burner is absolutely essential. >> LAURENT (VO): We are transferring the grains... What you want to do is you want to end up taking out all the solid grains that are left, that have been steeping for about half an hour and end up with what is really just an unbelievably delicious-smelling brown liquid It's really hard to describe just how _good_ this smells And that's one of the nice things about this. This is safe to do in your house, when you're brewing at home because this smells good You get in trouble sometimes with the hops... [laughter] The hops are the reason why it's good to do it outside, or in another building, if you can. But nobody's going to have a problem with this smell in the house because it smells really, really good. >> LAURENT (VO): At this point, having strained out most of the grains, we are now going to pour the steeping liquid through the filter. (You can see that there's still a good deal of grain, in there) >> LAURENT (VO): Now, what we're doing, is we're starting to top off the pot. We're generally going to have a boil of about 9 gallons in this pot, because it's a 10-gallon pot, but we need to leave a little bit of headroom at the top, to make sure that, as the boiling happens, and especially as you throw in the hops, you tend to get some foaming that happens We're adding a fair amount of water, because we know it needs to go in. Once we get this up to a boil, we'll be adding the malt extract We'll be toppiing _that_ up, once that's in, and we know exactly how much we've got. >> LAURENT (VO): Now that we're waiting for that water to come up to the boil, now is usually a good time to make sure that our buckets are clean and ready to go. We're going to do this in two stages: We're going to use a pretty powerful detergent, called "PBW" ("Powdered Brewers' Wash") that is designed to clean beer equipment; and then we will sanitize it, with a product called "Iodophor", which is a dilute iodine solution. You can pour it out, and you can let it air-dry, and that's all you need to do. >> LAURENT (VO): As you can see, the beginning of our "wort" (pronounced "wert") is coming close to a boil. So we're going to let it reach a full boil, and then once it does, we're going to cut off the flame. >> LAURENT (VO): What we've got here, is the malt extract, which is just the grains that have been converted in a factory, and it turns them into a thick syrup, that's a lot like molasses, or almost a honey. So we're going to pour it in, and you can see it's really thick. We've found that the easiest thing to do is actually to ladle some of the hot wort back into here, and rinse it out a couple of times, and that helps get it all out. It's a lot easier than digging it out with a spatula. This is all going to get boiled again for an hour, before it goes into the buckets, so it'll all be sterile by the time it's done. And, again, it's very, very important that we're doing this off the boil, because what you don't want to do is to have any of the malt settle to the bottom and burn, before it's thoroughly mixed in. And you want to be careful, because the hot water in here and the steam will tend to build up a little bit of pressure inside. And you can see the pressure building up... [small hiss from the opening lid] And there we go. A pretty much clean bucket. >> LAURENT (VO): Now that we've brought nine gallons, with all the extract, up to a full boil, it is time to put in the hops. Hops really have two ways that they contribute to the flavor of your beer: The first is that they have "alpha" acids in them, that contribute bitterness; and they have essential oils that contribute flavor and aroma. The hops we put in now are going to boil for an hour, which is going to drive off almost all of those oils, so these hops that we're putting in right now are really going to contribute to the bitterness of the beer. Later, towards the end of the boil, we're going to add a couple of different types of hops, at different times, and those will contribute less to the bitterness, and much more to the flavor and the aroma of the final beer. This is an ounce and a half of "Warrior" hops, that are going to go in and boil for an hour. And when you add in your hops, you'll see how that starts to boil up, a little bit, so you want to add them gradually, because if you add them all at once, especially when you've got a double batch going, like this, you can end up with a lot of foaming coming up, and over the sides of the pot. [shakes in some hops] And now is really when it starts to smell like beer. [background traffic noise] [Phiips stirs pot] [background traffic noise] [Phiips stirs pot] >> LAURENT (VO): So right now, what we are doing is we are sterilizing the wort chiller. The "wort chiller" is really nothing but about 60 feet of copper tubing, that's in a great big coil. That's half-inch copper tubing, and as you can see, it's got two plastic hoses coming out of it. One of them hooks up to a garden hose, and the other one is just an outlet hose. When it's time to cool the wort, we're actually going to be running water through that, and we're going to be dunking that directly into the wort, which is why we need to sterilize it right now. >> LAURENT (VO): Now we're going to gradually add in the second stage of hops. This is the "Amarillo", and because this is going to boil for three minutes before we cool it down, it's going to contribute some bitterness, but a fair amount of the oils are also going to remain. This is what you would call a "Flavoring Hop", since you'll be able to taste much more of the specific hops in the final product, than you'll be able to from the "Warrior" that we put in at the very beginning. [Timer alarm goes off] >> PHIL: Alright, it's "go time". [tosses in Citra hops] >> LAURENT (VO): Now, we've added the "Citra" hops, at the very end, and we are now killing the flame. Let's give it a good stir. [Philip stirs] These final hops, which are actually a very aromatic kind of hop, really are not going to contribute any bitterness at all, but they are going to bring a lot of flavor to the beer... a lot of aroma to the beer... The beer's going to smell like this. So now, we've got the wort chiller on. We've just got a garden hose hooked up to it, and it's pumping water through, and the difference right now, in the two handles, between the one that's coming in, which is pretty cold, and the one that's coming out, which is _really_ hot, is pretty striking. Moving around like this helps circulate it, and tends to help more heat go through. [laughter] Aaand we're down to, about, a hundred degrees, in not even five minutes. It's a little bit of an investment to either get or make a wort chiller like this, but it makes an enormous difference. >> PHILIP (pointing): That's huge. [laughter] >> LAURENT (pointing): It's our first time using an easy-to-read thermometer like this. [more laughter] >> PHILIP: Yeah...I think we're there. We're right at 75. >> LAURENT: Awesome. >> LAURENT: Here we have about 8 gallons of cooled wort that is ready to be transferred into a couple of buckets. Once it's in the buckets, we will pitch the yeast. One of the first tricks we learned a little while ago is to try and create a whirlpool, in the wort, before we siphon it. All of what's called the "trub" collects at the bottom, in the middle of your pot, and as you siphon, if you come down the side, you tend to pull out a lot less of what's basically spent hops, and just whatever else has been accumulating. >> LAURENT (VO): The whirlpool has slowed down, and it's time to do some siphoning! Now you're going to see why this is so handy. Rather than try and start a siphon with your mouth, which could introduce some "infection" into the beer, this pump system allows you to start it mechanically, and then we are just pouring it into the buckets. Here you can see the "trub" on the bottom of the bucket. We've tried to leave most of it -- as much as we can -- without leaving too much of the wort down there. Now we've got two buckets, each with about 3-1/2 gallons of wort in there, so there was about 7 gallons left in the bucket, by the time we were done with all the boiling. Now we're going to top them off, with water, to exactly 5 gallons. It's important to make sure to do this _before_ we check the gravity of the final wort, because this wort right here is much denser than we actually need it to be, because it's boiled down so much, and we need to re-dilute it to the correct concentration and then we can check the gravity of our wort. [Philip places lids onto buckets] >> LAURENT (VO): Now it's time to check the "Original" gravity of our mix. We're sanitizing a cup, in Iodophor. [Philip hands hydrometer to Laurent] [Philip pours wort sample into cylinder] [Laurent drops hydrometer into wort] >> LAURENT: Whoa-ho!! This is 1 point 0 ... 6 ... 2 ... 6 ... 4 ... which is very high. Not "out-of-the-park" high... >> PHILIP: It's not a "high-gravity" beer... [laughter] >> LAURENT: Other beers are higher, but that's about as high as we've made. >> LAURENT (VO): This tells us the density of the wort, at this point. This is actually a very important measurement to take, for two reasons: The first is that it's going to give you an idea of whether or not it turned out right, since any recipe is going to give you a "target" gravity that you should be at, for this point. And also, the difference between this "original" gravity, no matter what it is, and the "final" gravity, when you measure it after fermentation is done, is what's going to tell you how alcoholic the beer is. You really want to make sure you're measuring it at both times so what whether or not you've made exactly what the recipe expected, you'll at least have a rough idea of the alcohol content of your beer. >> LAURENT: Oh, that's good. >> PHILIP: Mmmm...that's really good. >> LAURENT: So this is your chance to taste it, what you pulled off to sample for the gravity. You do _not_ want to put this back into your wort, obviously. It's going to be very sweet, compared to where it's going to be, because these sugars haven't been "yeast-ified", and fermented, and turned to alchohol, yet, but you can start to get a sense of how it's going to end up, especially as you do this more and more. If you over-hopped it, or you made any mistakes, you'll probably be able to tell at this point. Basically, if it tastes good at this point (but a little bit sweet) then you're in good shape. This is what's called a "yeast starter", and it means rather than just pitching in the yeast, straight out of the vial, when you get it from the store, you build a simple wort and put the yeast into it ahead of time, and it means that not only are you pitching a lot more yeast, but your yeast is active, and ready to go as soon as you put it into the wort. It's pretty simple to do, and it's not too hard to find the instructions for how to do it, but it's not something you _need_ to do, especially when you're starting. >> LAURENT: Because we've got so much yeast starter, we're going to divide it into two Mason jars, just trying to get it relatively even. [Philip agitates and then pours starter] >> PHILIP: There it is. >> LAURENT: Go, little yeasties, go!! [bucket lids are sealed] >> LAURENT: Our airlocks have been soaking in Iodophor for a while, to make sure they're sanitized. To err on the side of caution, we usually top them off with a little bit of the Iodophor water. >> PHILIP: We may use vodka from now on... >> LAURENT: That's right...we've heard you can use vodka. >> LAURENT (VO): Here we have Phil's awesome fermentation closet that he's set up. This is something we've learned, which is that it's a lot easier to put the water in the airlocks _after_ you get them to where they need to be, instead of putting it in early, and trying to cart them around with water sloshing around. There we go! They're going to sit there for a week, at 68 degrees, then we will be transferring them to glass carboys.