蘇格蘭的島嶼和高地 (Scotland's Islands and Highlands)

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HI. I'M RICK STEVES, GLAD TO BE YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER AGAIN
AS WE ENJOY MORE OF THE BEST OF EUROPE.
THIS TIME, IT'S A WEE BIT OF WONDERFUL SCOTLAND.
WHERE LEGENDS OF BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE
SWIRL AROUND LONELY CASTLES.
WE'LL PONDER THE BIRTHPLACE OF CHRISTIANITY IN SCOTLAND,
TOSS A FEW CABERS,
AND WATCH TRADITIONAL DANCING AT HIGHLAND GAMES,
DISCOVER DARK SECRETS IN THE WEEPING GLEN...
THEY STARTED TO KILL THE MEN.
...SAMPLE SOME FINE SCOTCH,
AND ENDURE A LITTLE PIPING.
CROWNING BRITAIN IN THE NORTHWEST OF EUROPE,
SCOTLAND WELCOMES VISITORS.
FROM THE TOWN OF OBAN,
WE CRUISE TO THE ISLES OF MULL AND IONA,
THEN FOLLOW THE CALEDONIAN CANAL TO GLENCOE,
LOCH NESS,
AND ON TO CULLODEN.
OBAN, THE GATEWAY TO THE ISLES,
IS A BUSY LITTLE FERRY TERMINAL,
A CLASSIC SCOTTISH PORT TOWN,
JUST THE PLACE TO MUNCH FRESH SEAFOOD.
YOU WANT A WEE BIT OF THIS?
I'LL HAVE A CUP OF COCKLES, PLEASE.
CUP OF COCKLES?
THAT'S RIGHT.
THESE ARE COOKED WITHOUT SALT.
ALL RIGHT.
MIGHT WANT TO PUT A BIT OF SALT,
VINEGAR, BLACK PEPPER.
THE WIND, BOATS, GULLS, LAYERS OF ISLANDS
AND THE PROMISE OF A WIDE-OPEN ATLANTIC BEYOND
GIVE OBAN A SHIVER-AND-BUSTLE VITALITY.
THE COLISEUM OVERLOOKING OBAN WAS THE INSPIRATION
OF A LOCAL TYCOON IN 1900.
HE WANTED TO EMPLOY WORKERS
AND BUILD HIMSELF A FINE MEMORIAL.
A HIKE TO ITS PEACEFUL GARDEN IS REWARDED WITH A GRAND VIEW.
OBAN'S COMMERCIAL DISTRICT IS LITTLE MORE
THAN THE STREET ALONG THE HARBOR.
EAGER TO PLEASE ITS MANY VISITORS,
YOU'LL FIND LIVE FOLK DANCING NIGHTLY
AND WOOLENS AND TWEEDS PERPETUALLY ON SALE.
TOMORROW WE'RE SAILING TO THE ISLE OF MULL
AND HISTORIC IONA.
FOR TODAY, I'LL EXPLORE MY OPTIONS AT THE TOURIST OFFICE.
THERE'S PLENTY GOING ON.
THE "WHAT'S ON" BOARD LISTS PIPING ON THE HILLTOP,
FOLK DANCING,
AND LAWN BOWLING.
GOOD TRAVELERS MAKE A POINT TO GET OUT
OF THE "MUSEUM-AND-CASTLES" RUT AND INTO DAILY LIFE.
OH, LOVELY BALL!
THE OBAN LAWN BOWLING CLUB HAS WELCOMED VISITORS SINCE 1869.
ANYONE CAN WATCH, AND IF THERE'S NO MATCH,
YOU CAN RENT SHOES AND BALLS AND ACTUALLY PLAY.
THE PRESIDENT OF THE CLUB, MARGARET MacLAUCHLAN,
IS GIVING ME A LESSON IN THIS WONDERFULLY SCOTTISH PASTIME.
THE PURPOSE OF THE GAME IS THAT YOU ARE GOING TO
TRY TO GET YOUR BALL CLOSER TO THE JACK
THAN YOUR OPPONENT.
IT'S GOING TO BEND A LITTLE BIT THIS WAY.
THAT'S CORRECT.
OKAY, LET'S GIVE THAT A WHIRL.
WOW, YOU TOOK YOUR PORRIDGE THIS MORNING.
SEE, I'M THROWING IT TOO FAR
AND I FORGOT MY BIAS.
YOU FORGOT YOUR BIAS, YES.
TAKE THE BALL.
DO IT AGAIN?
YES.
REMEMBER YOUR BIAS THIS TIME.
OKAY.
NOT TOO HEAVY.
THAT'S NOT A BAD TRY.
NOT BAD.
HEY, THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE LESSON.
IT'S A PLEASURE.
NICE TO MEET YOU.
TO CELEBRATE OUR FIRST GAME OF LAWN BOWLING,
HOW ABOUT A LITTLE SCOTCH?
OBAN'S 200-YEAR-OLD WHISKEY DISTILLERY PRODUCES
NEARLY 15,000 BOTTLES A WEEK.
DON'T BREATHE IN TOO DEEPLY
BECAUSE SOMETIMES IT CAN TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY.
THEY OFFER FRAGRANT TOURS.
SO WE'LL HAVE A LOOK IN THIS ONE NOW.
NOW, THIS ONE'S FINISHED FERMENTING.
NOW, OBAN'S QUITE UNIQUE.
THE WASH STILL IS MUCH BIGGER THAN THE SPIRIT STILL.
NOW, EACH DISTILLERY WILL HAVE ITS OWN SHAPE OF STILL.
THAT'S TRADITION.
AND THE SHAPE OF THE STILL WILL INFLUENCE THE CHARACTER
OF THE WHISKEY.
SO THIS IS OBAN SINGLE MALT WHISKEY,
AND IT'S 14 YEARS OLD.
THE TOUR FINISHES WITH A SMOOTH SAMPLE
AND A TRADITIONAL TOAST.
IN MY BRITAIN GUIDEBOOK, I RECOMMEND SLEEPING
IN BED AND BREAKFASTS TO SAVE MONEY
AND GET TO KNOW THE LOCALS.
AND THESE DAYS, MANY B & Bs ARE SMOKE-FREE.
NONSMOKERS HAVE IT EASIER IN BRITAIN THAN ON THE CONTINENT
WHERE SMOKE-FREE ACCOMMODATIONS
ARE STILL PRETTY RARE.
SO, THIS IS MY HOME AWAY FROM HOME.
I'VE SET UP A WEE LITTLE PANTRY,
GOT MY SINK HERE,
TOILET AND SHOWER JUST ACROSS THE HALL,
AND I'VE GOT MY OWN TEMPORARY LOCAL MOTHER.
WELL, RICK, THIS IS THE TROLLEY WHERE WE HAVE
TEA AND COFFEE AND BISCUITS, AND YOU HELP YOURSELF.
AND YOU'RE MORE THAN WELCOME TO USE IT.
THIS IS THE LOUNGE.
AND THIS IS WHERE WE LIKE TO SIT ON AN EVENING,
HAVE A TALK TO OUR GUESTS.
SO YOU ACTUALLY GET THE GUESTS GATHERING IN HERE?
OH, WE DO, WE DO GET THEM GATHERING IN HERE.
WE HAVE A GOOD EVENING.
THEY WANT TO KNOW ABOUT OBAN,
AND I HELP THEM AS MUCH AS I CAN.
AND I ASK THEM WHERE THEY'VE BEEN, WHERE THEY'VE COME FROM,
AND I LIKE TO KNOW WHERE THEY ARE.
RENA, WE NEED ONE GREAT PLACE FOR A SCOTTISH DINNER.
OH, THE STUDIO, OF COURSE.
IT'S VERY NICE INDEED THERE.
THEY HAVE LOVELY MEALS IN THERE,
AND YOU CAN CHOOSE FROM THE MENU.
AND YOU CAN HAVE SCOTTISH FOOD AS WELL.
SALMON AND STEAKS,
AND REALLY NICE STEAKS THEY ARE IN THERE.
NOW, I KNOW IT'S A TOURISTY THING,
BUT I REALLY WHEN I'M IN SCOTLAND,
I LIKE TO HAVE SOME HAGGIS.
WILL THEY SERVE THE HAGGIS,
DO YOU THINK?
I THINK SO.
I'M NOT SURE ABOUT HAGGIS BECAUSE I'M NOT A HAGGIS EATER.
I THINK THEY SERVE IT TO ALL THE TOURISTS,
BUT YOU PROBABLY HAVEN'T HAD IT FOR A WHILE.
NO, AND I CAN DANCE IT.
I CAN SHOOT IT IF YOU LIKE.
[ LAUGHTER ]
THE STUDIO IS A FAVORITE FOR GOOD SCOTTISH COOKING.
HM.
THERE'S JUST NO HAGGIS ANYWHERE ON THIS MENU.
I GUESS SCOTTISH CUISINE HAS MOVED
BEYOND HAGGIS, NEEPS, AND TATTIES.
ACTUALLY, THAT'S A RELIEF.
ANGUS BEEF?
THAT'LL BE FOR ME.
WOULD YOU LIKE SOME
HORSERADISH SAUCE WITH THAT?
OH, YES, PLEASE.
BECAUSE IT LETS US ORDER THE LOCALLY CAUGHT
GRILLED SALMON AND THE HIGHLAND ANGUS BEEF.
EACH MORNING TRAVELERS PILE ONTO THE HUGE OBAN-MULL FERRY.
ALL ABOARD FOR IONA, RAIN OR SHINE.
REGARDLESS OF THE WEATHER, THE TOUR OF IONA AND MULL
OFFERS THE BEST ONE-DAY LOOK AT DRAMATIC AND HISTORIC
HEBRIDES ISLAND SCENERY.
PART TWO OF OUR TOUR:
AN ENTERTAINING BUS RIDE ACROSS THE ISLE OF MULL.
THE ISLAND OF MULL, IT'S A BIG ISLAND.
IT'S BIGGER THAN MOST FOLK REALIZE AT FIRST.
BIGGEST OF THE HEBRIDES.
345 SQUARE MILES.
INDEPENDENT AS I LIKE TO TRAVEL,
THERE ARE CASES WHEN CONNECTING HARD-TO-GET-TO
RURAL DESTINATIONS WITH AN ORGANIZED BUS TOUR
IS TIME AND MONEY WELL SPENT.
ALL THE VIKINGS THAT CAME HERE
CAME TO SETTLE AND FARM THE LAND.
THERE WAS ALSO VIKING RAIDERS.
THEY USED TO TIME THEIR RAIDS
TO OCCUR EVERY FIVE OR SIX YEARS.
THEY SEEMED TO RECKON THIS WAS LONG ENOUGH
FOR ANY COMMUNITY TO GATHER SOME RICHES
ABOUT THEM AND THEN THE VIKINGS WOULD
RETURN AND RELIEVE THEM OF IT.
AFTER BUSING ACROSS MULL,
IT'S A ONE-MILE FERRY RIDE TO THE SLEEPY ISLAND OF IONA.
IONA IS TINY:
JUST ONE VILLAGE, FIVE SQUARE MILES, ALMOST NO CARS.
IT'S FAMOUS FOR ITS ABBEY,
THE BIRTHPLACE OF CHRISTIANITY IN SCOTLAND.
THE YEAR WAS 563.
A MONK NAMED COLUMBA FOUGHT A BATTLE IN IRELAND.
HE WON, BUT SICKENED BY THE BLOODSHED,
HE LEFT HIS HOMELAND VOWING NEVER TO RETURN.
ACCORDING TO LEGEND, THE FIRST PIECE OF LAND
HE SAW OUT OF SIGHT OF IRELAND WAS IONA.
HE STOPPED HERE AND BUILT A MONASTERY.
IONA BECAME THE CENTER OF CELTIC CHRISTIANITY.
FROM HERE, ST. COLUMBA'S MONKS SPREAD THE GOSPEL
THROUGHOUT SCOTLAND.
THIS LITTLE ISLAND WAS A CENTER OF ART AND LEARNING
BACK WHEN MOST OF EUROPE WAS RUTTING IN THE DARK AGE MUD.
THE FAMOUS BOOK OF KELLS-- THIS IS A COPY--
PERHAPS THE FINEST PIECE OF ART FROM WHAT'S COMMONLY CALLED
EUROPE'S DARK AGES,
WAS STARTED HERE ON IONA IN THE 8th CENTURY.
THE ABBEY WAS THE BURIAL PLACE FOR CHIEFS AND KINGS.
DOZENS OF ANCIENT SCOTTISH AND EVEN SCANDINAVIAN KINGS
REST HERE, INCLUDING SHAKESPEARE'S MacBETH.
BY ABOUT THE YEAR 800, VIKINGS WERE RAIDING.
AFTER ONE MASSACRE,
68 MONKS WERE KILLED RIGHT HERE ON THE BEACH.
THE SURVIVORS PACKED UP THEIR TREASURES,
INCLUDING THE BOOK OF KELLS, AND RETURNED TO IRELAND.
AFTER CENTURIES OF PILLAGING,
LITTLE REMAINS OF THE ORIGINAL CHURCH.
BUT TODAY THE IONA COMMUNITY IS BRINGING NEW LIFE TO THE ABBEY
WITH A FOCUS ON PEACE, JUSTICE, AND RECONCILIATION.
A THOUGHTFUL CALM PERVADES SCOTLAND'S HOLY ISLE.
IT'S A GREAT PLACE FOR A BREAK FROM A BUSY ITINERARY.
AFTER A REST ON IONA, WE'RE DRIVING NORTH,
FARTHER INTO THE HIGHLANDS.
THE MILES ARE LONG, BUT THEY'RE SCENIC.
THE ROADS ARE GOOD AND THE TRAFFIC'S LIGHT.
OF COURSE, HERE IN BRITAIN YOU DRIVE ON THE LEFT-HAND SIDE
OF THE ROAD.
ORIGINALLY THAT WAS SO YOU COULD DRIVE DEFENSIVELY,
WITH YOUR SWORD HAND ON THE INSIDE TO DEFEND YOURSELF
AGAINST ONCOMING TRAFFIC.
YOU GET USED TO IT.
THE BEAUTY OF THE HIGHLANDS IS POWERFULLY FELT
IN THE VAST RANNOCH MOOR,
HUNDREDS OF DESOLATE SQUARE MILES,
MUCH ENJOYED BY HIKERS AND LOVERS OF NATURE.
[ BAGPIPES PLAYING ]
THE WINDY EXPANSE OF THE HIGHLANDS,
THIS IS WHERE PIPING FEELS RIGHT.
ROADSIDE PIPERS ENTERTAIN TRAVELERS FOR TIPS
ON THE ROAD INTO GLENCOE.
BOY, THAT'S GREAT.
THANK YOU.
CAN YOU GIVE ME A QUICK TOUR
OF YOUR GEAR AND EVERYTHING?
YEAH, SURE.
YOU'VE GOT YOUR BAG, HAND-SEWN.
OKAY.
HIDE BAG.
LOVELY, YEAH.
THEN YOU'VE GOT YOUR TWO BASS,
YOUR TENOR DRONE, THE BLOW PIPE.
TO FILL THE BAG WITH?
YEAH.
AND YOU'VE GOT YOUR STANDARD KEYBOARD.
IT'S WHERE YOUR MUSIC COMES FROM.
SO IF YOU CAN PLAY THE RECORDER, YOU CAN ACTUALLY--
YOU HAVE TO FILL THE BAG, BUT WE CAN PLAY--
CAN I GIVE IT A WHIRL?
YEAH.
OKAY.
SO YOU'RE GOING TO POWER THE ORGAN
AND THEN I WILL TRY TO COVER ALL THESE HOLES.
VERY GOOD.
MY FIRST LESSON!
THANKS.
YEAH.
THE VALLEY OF GLENCOE, OFTEN CALLED THE WEEPING GLEN,
HAS A SAD AND INTERESTING STORY.
GLENCOE VILLAGE IS JUST A LINE OF HOUSES.
ONE IS THE HUMBLE GLENCOE FOLK MUSEUM.
A PURELY HOME-GROWN EFFORT, IT'S FILLED WITH ARTIFACTS
GLEANED FROM THE TOWN'S OLD CLOSETS AND ATTICS.
THIS HOUSE WAS BUILT IN 1695.
VOLUNTEERS LIKE ARTHUR SMITH, WHO RUNS A B & B IN TOWN,
SHOW VISITORS AROUND.
RIGHT, RICK.
THIS IS A WEAPONS CASE.
DO YOU KNOW HOW THE HIGHLANDERS WERE ARMED IN THE OLD DAYS?
UH, NO.
WELL, THE REDCOATS WERE VERY FOND OF USING MUSKETS.
AND WE TENDED TO CARRY BROADSWORDS AND TARGES.
IT TOOK A REDCOAT ABOUT A MINUTE TO RELOAD A MUSKET.
SO WE WOULD STAND 30 YARDS AWAY FROM THEM, TWO LINES.
THEY WOULD FIRE.
WE WOULD FIRE.
THE REDCOATS WOULD THEN RELOAD.
AND IT TOOK ABOUT A MINUTE.
GET THE HAMMER IN, GET THE BALL IN.
AND WHILE THEY WERE DOING THAT, WE CHARGED.
OUR TARGES WERE USED FOR KNOCKING UP THE BAYONETS
AND THEN YOU SLASHED.
SO, IT WAS KNOCK AND SLASH.
KNOCK AND SLASH.
IT WAS A BIT GORY, BUT IT WORKED.
RIGHT.
UNFORTUNATELY, IT DIDN'T WORK THE LAST TIME.
AND AFTER THE LAST BATTLE, THE DISARMAMENT ACT CAME IN
AND WE HAD TO EITHER HAND IN OUR WEAPONS OR HIDE THEM.
AND THESE SWORDS HERE WERE HIDDEN IN THE THATCH.
AND THE HEATHER THATCH WAS A GREAT HIDING PLACE.
SO THIS SWORD WAS HIDING IN A THATCH
FOR 200 AND SOME ODD YEARS?
YES.
200 YEARS ISN'T A LOT IN THE GLEN.
PASSES QUITE QUICKLY.
THIS IS AMAZING.
MAKING FRIENDS WITH A LOCAL, LIKE ARTHUR,
FILLS THE HIGHLAND SCENERY WITH MEANING.
DO YOU SEE THIS ISLAND HERE, RICK?
YEAH.
THAT'S THE ISLAND OF DISCUSSION.
IN THE OLD DAYS,
IF THERE WAS ANY ARGUMENTS OR QUARRELS,
THE PARTIES WERE TAKEN OUT AND LEFT THERE
WITH CHEESE AND WHISKEY AND OATCAKES,
AND THEY WERE LEFT THERE UNTIL THEY SORTED OUT
THEIR ARGUMENT AND CAME TO A CONCLUSION.
AND THE RESULT OF THAT IS,
IN 1500 YEARS OF HISTORY,
WE'VE ONLY HAD ONE MURDER IN THIS PLACE.
EFFECTIVE.
VERY, VERY.
THE ISLAND OF DISCUSSION.
THE ISLAND OF DISCUSSION.
IT WORKS.
SO, ARTHUR, THIS IS THE SITE
OF THE MASSACRE UNDER TRUST?
YES, IT IS THE MASSACRE OF GLENCOE.
THERE WAS A NEW KING IN ENGLAND,
AND HE PUT OUT AN EDICT THAT
ALL THE HIGHLAND CHIEFS HAD TO TAKE
AN OATH OF ALLEGIANCE TO HIM
BY THE 1st OF JANUARY, 1692.
THE CHIEF HERE WAS LATE IN TAKING IT,
FOUR DAYS LATE.
AND THEY DECIDED THAT WAS ENOUGH
TO MAKE AN EXAMPLE OF HIM.
SO THERE WAS A PARTY OF REDCOATS CAME
FROM FT. WILLIAM,
WERE BILLETED TWO OR THREE IN EACH HOUSE
RIGHT THROUGHOUT THE GLEN.
AND THEN THE NIGHT OF THE 13th OF FEBRUARY,
THEY TURNED ON THEIR HOSTS.
THEY WERE BAYONETTED OR SHOT IN THEIR BEDS,
THE HOUSES SET ON FIRE.
AND AS THE SURVIVORS FLED,
THERE WAS OTHER PARTIES OF REDCOATS COMING DOWN
THROUGH THIS PASS AND THIS PASS AND THIS PASS HERE.
FORTUNATELY, THEY HADN'T GUARDED THIS PASS,
AND MY SIX-TIMES-REMOVED GREAT-GRANDMOTHER,
SHE FLED UP THROUGH THERE
TO THE CAMPBELLS IN THE NEXT GLEN
AND GOT SHELTER AND HELP THERE.
OF THE 400 PEOPLE WHO LIVED IN THE GLEN,
280 WERE KILLED.
THE CHIEF REALIZED HE COULD NO LONGER PROTECT
THE PEOPLE AND THE CHILDREN.
THE DRIVE FROM GLENCOE TO INVERNESS FOLLOWS
THE CALEDONIAN CANAL.
MADE UP OF THREE LAKES, OR LOCHS AS THEY'RE CALLED HERE,
AND OVER 20 MILES OF CANALS, IT SLICES SCOTLAND IN TWO.
BUILT IN THE EARLY 1800s
BY THE GREAT BRITISH ENGINEER THOMAS TELFORD,
THE CANAL PROVIDED A SHIPPING SHORTCUT
THROUGH RATHER THAN AROUND SCOTLAND.
THESE LOCHS WERE AN ENGINEERING MARVEL IN THEIR DAY.
THE MOST FAMOUS PART OF THE CALEDONIAN CANAL,
LOCH NESS.
THE LOCAL TOURIST INDUSTRY
THRIVES ON THE LEGEND OF THE MONSTER.
FOR A MONSTROUS DOSE OF NESSIE COMMERCIALISM,
DROP INTO ONE OF TWO LOCH NESS EXHIBITION CENTERS,
ONE CLAIMING TO BE THE ORIGINAL,
THE OTHER THE OFFICIAL.
BOTH SEEM TO DEVOTE MORE SQUARE FOOTAGE
TO THEIR SHOPS THAN TO THEIR EXHIBITS.
IT IS A THRILLING THOUGHT,
AND THERE HAVE BEEN SEVERAL SEEMINGLY RELIABLE SIGHTINGS
BY POLICE OFFICERS, MONKS, AND NOW SONAR IMAGES.
Tape recording: IT IS STILL FOR YOU TO JUDGE
WHETHER THE WATERS ARE A VEIL
WHICH MAY ONE DAY BE LIFTED,
OR A MIRROR TO OUR OWN IMAGINATION.
LONG AND SKINNY LOCH NESS
IS THE THIRD DEEPEST LAKE IN EUROPE.
IT'S DEEPEST NEAR THE URQUHART CASTLE.
THE CASTLE, WHILE AN EMPTY SHELL, IS GLORIOUSLY SITUATED
WITH A VIEW OF VIRTUALLY THE ENTIRE LAKE.
FOR ME, THE LOCH NESS MONSTER IS AS SCOTTISH
AS BIGFOOT IS AMERICAN.
I FEEL THE REAL SPIRIT OF SCOTLAND MOST DEEPLY
JUST BEYOND LOCH NESS AT THE BATTLEFIELD OF CULLODEN.
IN OUR GENERATION, SCOTLAND'S WINNING MORE AND MORE AUTONOMY
THE MODERN, PEACEFUL, AND DEMOCRATIC WAY.
BUT CENTURIES AGO,
IT WAS A BLOODY AND TERRIBLE STRUGGLE.
THE SCOTS WANTED RELIGIOUS FREEDOM
AND TO KEEP THEIR ANCIENT CLAN TRADITIONS.
THE LAST AND MOST ROMANTIC LEADER OF THIS CAUSE
WAS PRINCE CHARLES EDWARD STUART.
FOR YEARS BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE CONFOUNDED THE ENGLISH.
SLIPPING FROM VALLEY TO VALLEY,
HIDING BEHIND CLEVER DISGUISES AND IN SYMPATHETIC FARMHOUSES,
HE KEPT SCOTTISH DREAMS ALIVE.
THOSE DREAMS ENDED HERE AT THE BATTLE OF CULLODEN IN 1746.
THE SCOTTISH CLANS GATHERED EVERY POSSIBLE WARRIOR,
BUT THEY WERE OUTNUMBERED AND OUTGUNNED BY THE REDCOATS.
THE HOUR-LONG BATTLE WAS A CATASTROPHE
FOR THE HIGHLANDERS.
SO RIGHT HERE AT THE BATTLE OF CULLODEN,
THE ENGLISH FINALLY DECISIVELY BEAT THE SCOTS.
WHAT WAS THE RESULT OF THAT?
WELL, IT WAS A DISASTER
FOR THE HIGHLANDS AND FOR SCOTLAND.
THE GOVERNMENT COMMANDER, THE DUKE OF CUMBERLAND,
WANTED TO TRY AN 18th CENTURY FORM
OF ETHNIC CLEANSING BY SHIPPING OUT
THE REBELLIOUS HIGHLANDERS TO THE CAROLINAS
AND TO THE CARIBBEAN PLANTATIONS.
BUT THAT DIDN'T WORK.
SO THEY THOUGHT THAT THE ONLY WAY
THAT THEY WOULD STOP THE JACOBITES
RISING AGAIN IN THE HIGHLANDS
WAS TO DESTROY THEIR CULTURE.
THEY DID AWAY WITH THE LANGUAGE.
THEY DID AWAY
WITH TRADITIONAL HIGHLANDS DRESS.
WEAPONS HAD TO BE HANDED IN.
AND THE BAGPIPES WERE BANNED
AS A WEAPON OF WAR.
AND IF YOU'VE EVER STOOD CLOSE
TO A SET OF BAGPIPES BEING PLAYED,
YOU MAYBE UNDERSTAND WHY.
BUT IT WAS A DISASTER
FOR TRADITIONAL HIGHLAND AND SCOTTISH CULTURE.
WANDERING THE BATTLEFIELD,
YOU FEEL SOMETHING TERRIBLE HAPPENED HERE.
LOCALS STILL BRING FLOWERS
AND SPEAK OF '46 AS IF IT WERE THIS CENTURY.
A FUN WAY TO TRAVEL THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS
IS WITH THE POSTMAN.
HI.
CAN I RIDE WITH YOU?
YES, NO PROBLEM.
THANKS.
WITH THE SPARSE POPULATION OF THE HIGHLANDS,
IN LIEU OF A BUS SERVICE,
THE GOVERNMENT ALLOWS PEOPLE TO RIDE WITH THE POSTMAN.
LOCALS DO THIS TO GET SOMEWHERE.
TRAVELERS, WE DO IT FOR THE CHAT
AND TO GET OFF THE BEATEN PATH.
GENERALLY, WHO TAKES ADVANTAGE OF THIS
HOP-A-RIDE-ON-THE-POST-BUS SYSTEM?
I GET REALLY A LOT OF HILL WALKERS AND CLIMBERS,
AND IN THE SUMMERTIME I GET A LOT OF OLDER PEOPLE
WHO LIKE TO COME AROUND
WHO DON'T WANT TO DRIVE AROUND THEMSELVES.
IS THIS GOOD HIKING COUNTRY?
THIS IS GOOD HIKING COUNTRY, YES.
IT'S MY PRIVILEGE TO WELCOME YOU TO
KILMORE AND KILBRIDE HIGHLAND GAMES
ON THIS BRIGHT, SUNNY AFTERNOON.
AND I HOPE YOU ALL ENJOY YOURSELVES,
BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY,
THAT YOU LEARN SOMETHING OF OUR HIGHLAND CULTURE,
WHICH WE NATURALLY ARE VERY, VERY PROUD OF.
[ GUNSHOT ]
STUMBLING UPON A SMALL TOWN FESTIVAL, IT'S CLEAR:
SCOTTISH SPIRIT NOT ONLY SURVIVED CULLODEN, IT THRIVES.
WHILE SCOTLAND IS STILL A PART OF THE UNITED KINGDOM,
LOCAL GOVERNMENT AUTHORITY HAS COME HOME.
FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE 1707,
THE SCOTTISH PARLIAMENT IS NOW MEETING IN SCOTLAND.
IF BONNIE PRINCE CHARLIE AND HIS TROOPS WERE ALIVE TODAY,
THEY'D BE HERE CELEBRATING.
[ BAGPIPES PLAYING ]
THROUGHOUT SCOTLAND,
COMMUNITIES GATHER FOR TRADITIONAL GAMES,
MUSIC, AND DANCING COMPETITIONS.
HIGHLAND DANCING PREDATES BAGPIPES IN SCOTLAND.
THE ANCIENT STEPS HAVE BEEN HANDED DOWN
FROM GENERATION TO GENERATION.
[ APPLAUSE ]
PUT IT AGAINST YOUR NECK.
OH, YEAH!
HANDS TOGETHER, RIGHT?
RIGHT.
OKAY, NOW WHAT AM I
SUPPOSED TO DO WITH THIS THING?
THE HEAVY EVENTS ARE ALWAYS THE HIT OF THE GAMES.
BRAWNY LADS COMPETE FOR PRIZE MONEY
BY HEAVING ALL KINDS OF HEAVY THINGS.
WHILE THE SHOT PUT WENT INTERNATIONAL
ONLY ABOUT 100 YEARS AGO,
IT'S BEEN BIG IN SCOTLAND FOR CENTURIES.
I GOT IT.
ARE YOU OKAY?
YEAH, I'M FINE.
OKAY.
OOH!
AND SPEAKING OF HEAVY EVENTS, THIS GADGET WEIGHS 56 POUNDS.
NO HIGHLAND GAMES ARE COMPLETE WITHOUT TOSSING THE CABER.
THE OBJECT: FLIP THE TREE TRUNK,
ALL 20 FEET TALL AND 140 POUNDS OF IT,
END OVER END, KEEPING IT IN A STRAIGHT LINE.
WHATEVER IT TAKES TO CONNECT WITH THE CULTURE,
GOOD TRAVEL MEANS GIVE IT A GO.
I HOPE YOU ENJOYED OUR LOOK AT SCOTLAND.
JOIN US AGAIN FOR MORE TRAVEL FUN.
I'M RICK STEVES.
UNTIL NEXT TIME, KEEP ON TRAVELIN'.
OKAY.
SHORT SPRINT, STOP.
SHORT SPRINT, STOP.
GO!
GIVE ME FIVE!
THERE.
I SEE THE MEN RUNNING AFTER THEIR BALLS
WHEN THEY THROW, WHEN THEY PLAY A GAME, YOU KNOW.
WHY DO THEY DO THAT?
EXCITEMENT.
YEAH, BECAUSE THEY'RE
RUNNING DOWN THE THING, IT'S SO CUTE.
DO YOU EVER RUN AFTER YOUR BALLS WHEN YOU'RE DOING THIS?
NO, I DON'T.
AND YOU GOT...
THIS IS THE DIRK.
YOU GET A SMALL KNIFE AND FORK.
Steves: [ Laughing ] FOR SOME CLASSY EATING.
FOR CLASSY EATING WHEN YOU'RE IN BATTLE, YEAH.
IT'S VERY COMFORTABLE.
YOU FEEL REALLY GOOD AT A DANCE WHEN YOUR KILT'S SWINGING.
SEE YOU LATER.
BYE. DON'T FORGET NOW,
NEEPS AND TATTIES, TURNIP AND POTATOES.
BYE THEN.
BYE.