We're back.

我們回來了

I'm Dr. Shah.

我是沙博士

Dr. Maxfield.

馬克斯菲爾德博士

Welcome back to our channel, Dr. Lee, where we talk about all things skincare and dermatology.

歡迎回到我們的 "李醫生 "頻道，在這裡我們將討論護膚和皮膚科的所有問題。

And today, I'll say it again, I've said it before, if there was ever to be a Nobel Prize for a skincare ingredient, it would be white petrolatum.

今天，我再說一遍，我以前也說過，如果要為一種護膚成分設立諾貝爾獎，那一定是白凡士林。

Yes, that sounds insane.

是的，這聽起來很瘋狂。

Petroleum jelly.

凡士林

Vaseline.

凡士林

The greatest skincare ingredient of all time.

最偉大的護膚成分

I truly believe it.

我真的相信。

And I know somebody's reading on the internet right now thinking, did they just say refined petroleum product could potentially be the greatest ingredient?

我知道現在有人在網上看書時會想，他們剛才是不是說精煉石油產品可能是最重要的成分？

Yes, I said it.

是的，我說了。

He said it.

他說了

He claimed it.

他說是他的。

He owned it.

他擁有它。

Make a poster of it.

製作一張海報。

But there is a good reason why this ingredient is one of the best.

但這種成分成為最佳成分之一是有充分理由的。

In fact, a hero ingredient.

事實上，這是一種英雄的成分。

And if you go to any dermatologist's house, you're like, hey, do you have Vaseline?

如果你去任何皮膚科醫生的家裡，你會問，嘿，你有凡士林嗎？

It's probably going to be a yes, because we use it all the time in and outside of the office.

可能是的，因為我們在辦公室內外一直使用它。

So Vaseline, petrolatum hacks, how can this save your skin?

那麼凡士林、凡士林小竅門，它們能拯救你的皮膚嗎？

Here we go.

開始了

All things petrolatum hacks.

所有關於凡士林的小竅門

Here we go.

開始了

Quick little background story here.

簡單介紹一下背景故事。

Robert Cheeseborough.

羅伯特-奇斯伯勒

Cheese bro.

奶酪兄弟

He's rolling around in the 1800s and he's refining kerosene.

他在 19 世紀輾轉反側，提煉煤油。

He's refining all kinds of things.

他在完善各種東西。

He says, I'm going to refine petroleum.

他說，我要提煉石油。

And he makes petrolatum.

他還製造凡士林油

He gets it patented.

他獲得了專利。

And he actually, he says, I've invented refined petroleum and I've decided to call it in New York in his factory, selling Vaseline to people for all kinds of things.

實際上，他說，我發明了精煉石油，我決定在紐約的工廠裡把它命名為凡士林，賣給人們做各種用途。

And then it actually became so popular.

後來，它居然變得如此受歡迎。

He would burn himself with acid and then he would put Vaseline on it.

他會用硫酸燒傷自己，然後塗上凡士林。

And as a demonstration, and he would tell people, don't do this at home, but you can look at all these other areas where I burned myself and how well they healed because I used my Vaseline on them.

作為示範，他會告訴人們，不要在家裡這樣做，但你可以看看我燙傷的其他地方，它們癒合得有多好，因為我在上面塗了凡士林。

They even used it in war afterwards for like, they would give it to soldiers to heal wounds and things like this.

戰爭結束後，他們甚至用它來給阿兵哥療傷，諸如此類。

Don't eat it.

別吃

Even though he ate it and lived to be 97 years old or something crazy like that.

儘管他吃了它之後活了 97 歲，還是活得很瘋狂。

I don't recommend eating it.

我不建議吃它。

A lot of people are worried about the hydrocarbons that come from refined petroleum, but this has been refined, refined again and refined again.

很多人擔心精煉石油中會產生碳氫化合物，但這是經過精煉、再精煉、再精煉的。

It's triple refined and not just that any reputable company is going to have a USP grade petrolatum and USP has specific pharmacy standards to show that it doesn't have impurities in it to show that it is safe.

它是經過三重提煉的，而不僅僅是任何一家有信譽的公司都會有 USP 級的凡士林油，USP 有特定的藥學標準來證明它沒有雜質，以證明它是安全的。

And not only is safe because of a lack of hydrocarbons or very minimal hydrocarbons or undetectable hydrocarbons, it's so safe for in terms of an allergen.

它不僅因為不含碳氫化合物或碳氫化合物極少或檢測不到而安全，就過敏原而言也是如此安全。

They did a patch testing on like 80,000 people and there were only like two reactions to white petrolatum.

他們對大約 8 萬人進行了貼片測試，結果只有兩個人對白色凡士林產生了反應。

One of which they said was angry back syndrome, which means that the whole back was inflamed from just anything that you put on it.

他們說其中一種是 "憤怒的背部綜合症"，意思是整個背部都會發炎，只要你把任何東西放在它上面就會發炎。

And the second one they thought was like clerical error.

第二個他們認為是筆誤。

That's how rare an allergy to petrolatum is, is that they question the study itself and not the petrolatum product.

這就是對凡士林過敏的罕見之處，他們質疑的是研究本身，而不是凡士林產品。

And so you could potentially be allergic to petrolatum, but it's very, very uncommon.

是以，你有可能對凡士林過敏，但這種情況非常非常少見。

It's pretty much inert and we use it as the control in most of our studies because it's what we expect to not react when everything else is reacting.

它幾乎是惰性的，我們在大多數研究中都用它作為對照，因為當其他東西都發生反應時，我們希望它不會發生反應。

Right.

對

This is like the poster child for physically inert ingredient, almost impossible to react to it.

這就像是物理惰性成分的海報，幾乎不可能對其產生反應。

So if we haven't sold you on the fact that it's safe to use and it can be used, if you're over your angst about this, you're probably worried about how we're saying the word because if it's not a comment about that, it's a comment about the other.

所以，如果我們還沒有讓你相信它可以安全使用，如果你已經擺脫了對這個問題的焦慮，那麼你可能會擔心我們是怎麼說這個詞的，因為如果不是對這個詞的評論，那就是對另一個詞的評論。

Look, look, I even took a look at Amazon today.

你看，你看，我今天還看了一眼亞馬遜。

It specifically says, and I don't know how else you would want us to say this, petroleum jelly, white petrolatum skin protectant.

上面特別註明，我不知道你還想讓我們怎麼說，凡士林，白色凡士林皮膚保護劑。

I know white petrolatum.

我知道白色凡士林油。

No, no, no, no.

不，不，不，不

For me, it's petrolatum till I die.

對我來說，到死都是凡士林。

Now we've gotten past the hurdles.

現在，我們已經跨過了這道坎。

What are some of the best ways to use this ingredient?

使用這種成分的最佳方法是什麼？

So many different ways to use it.

使用方法多種多樣。

So simply it is the best occlusive moisturizer.

所以說，它是最好的滲透保溼霜。

It's about 99% occlusive.

它的閉塞度約為 99%。

It prevents trans epidermal water loss.

它能防止跨表皮水分流失。

So it acts as a very, very effective moisturizer.

是以，它是一種非常非常有效的保溼劑。

No, it's not bringing lipids into the skin.

不，它不會把脂質帶入皮膚。

No, it's not bringing ceramides into the skin, but it's an effective occlusive.

不，它不能將神經酰胺帶入皮膚，但它是一種有效的閉塞劑。

And one of the reasons why our skin gets dry is because we lose moisture to the environment and how we measure the effectiveness of moisturizers is looking at trans epidermal water loss.

皮膚乾燥的原因之一是我們的水分流失，而我們衡量保溼劑效果的方法就是檢測表皮水分的流失。

And petrolatum is the most effective ingredient to do this.

而凡士林是最有效的成分。

So simply using it as a moisturizer, we oftentimes call this slugging where you use it as the last step in your skincare routine to really lock everything in.

是以，只需將其作為保溼霜使用，我們通常稱之為 "悶痘"，將其作為護膚程序的最後一步，以真正鎖住所有成分。

I truly believe it's incredibly effective for repairing a damaged skin barrier and being one of the most effective moisturizers on the market.

我真的相信它對修復受損的皮膚屏障非常有效，是市場上最有效的保溼產品之一。

And I think an interesting thing is when slugging came to be as a dermatologist, I thought twofold.

我覺得有趣的是，當我成為一名皮膚科醫生時，我有兩個想法。

One, I was like, oh, this is something we recommend in the office all the time.

其一，我想，哦，這是我們辦公室一直推薦的東西。

The hydration plus occlusion combination, this is just routine for dermatologists.

保溼加閉塞的組合，對皮膚科醫生來說只是家常便飯。

The second thing is why the heck are they using so much?

第二件事是，他們到底為什麼要使用這麼多？

It is not like this.

不是這樣的。

It's not like a handful of Vaseline on the face over, I mean, that's just a mess.

我的意思是，這不像是在臉上塗一把凡士林，那簡直是一團糟。

It's impractical, not necessary.

這不切實際，也沒有必要。

You just use a thin layer of serum, thin layer of moisturizer, thin layer of Vaseline, lock it all in.

你只需塗上薄薄一層精華液、薄薄一層潤膚霜和薄薄一層凡士林，然後把它們全部鎖住。

There you go.

這就對了。

That's how you slug.

這就是你的方式。

Definitely dermatologist approved.

皮膚科醫生絕對認可。

And it was before slugging was even a term.

那時候還沒有 "猛擊 "這個詞。

Hack number two, we can simply use it as a protectant, meaning that we can use it on areas where we don't want other things to get.

第二，我們可以簡單地把它用作保護劑，也就是說，我們可以把它用在我們不想讓其他東西進入的地方。

So if you're going to use a high strength chemical exfoliant, you could use it to protect the under eye area.

是以，如果你要使用高強度的化學去角質產品，可以用它來保護眼下部位。

So you apply Vaseline first and then you apply the chemical peel on the rest of the area to kind of protect it.

所以，你要先塗凡士林，然後在其他部位塗上化學換膚劑，以起到保護作用。

And then we see people do this.

然後我們看到人們這樣做。

For example, people who are getting their hair dyed, they can put Vaseline on their hairline so that the dye doesn't drip down and kind of stain the forehead.

例如，染髮的人可以在髮際線上塗凡士林，這樣染髮劑就不會滴下來弄髒前額。

You can use it on your cuticles to protect your cuticles in different scenarios.

您可以在不同情況下將它用於保護角質層。

It really can be used also as a protectant in many cases over sensitive areas before you exfoliate around the eyes, around the mouth.

在很多情況下，它還可以用作敏感部位的保護劑，然後再去掉眼周和嘴邊的角質。

Again, you use this barrier to your benefit.

同樣，你可以利用這一障礙為自己謀利。

Not only does it lock in hydration, but it keeps out other irritating things where you don't want them.

它不僅能鎖住水分，還能將其他刺激性物質阻擋在你不希望出現的地方。

And I guess that kind of can lead to the hack, which is again, using this occlusive barrier to your benefit.

我想，這就可以引出 "黑客技術 "了，也就是利用這種閉塞屏障為你帶來好處。

When you occlude ingredients, it can make them more effective.

遮蓋成分會讓它們更有效。

Now this comes with caution.

現在，我們必須謹慎行事。

You don't want to occlude your actives like retinoids or exfoliants.

你不想讓活性成分（如維甲酸或去角質劑）被遮蓋。

You don't want to do that on sensitive areas, especially like the face, neck.

敏感部位，尤其是臉部和頸部，最好不要使用。

However, there are times where you want to occlude even something like urea or perhaps even an exfoliating acid that's a little more gentle on thick resistant skin, like the feet.

不過，有時你甚至需要使用尿素或去角質酸等對腳部等耐受性較強的皮膚更溫和的去角質產品。

So you can take an ingredient, you can apply Vaseline and it will make it more effective.

是以，你可以使用一種成分，塗上凡士林，這樣就會更有效。

We do this all the time with prescription active ingredients.

對於處方活性成分，我們經常這樣做。

Even an ingredient in an ointment base where Vaseline is part of the formula can make it more effective.

即使是凡士林作為配方一部分的藥膏基質中的一種成分，也能使其更有效。

So ointments a lot of times will increase the penetration and that ointment base is the petrolatum that's pushing it kind of deeper into the skin because of the occlusion.

是以，軟膏在很多時候會增加滲透性，而軟膏的基質是凡士林，由於閉塞作用，軟膏會更深入皮膚。

So you could take your urea, you can then follow with Vaseline and then it will lock it in, penetrate it deeper into the skin.

是以，你可以在使用尿素後再塗抹凡士林，這樣就能鎖住尿素，使其更深入皮膚。

You can also do this for topical steroids.

外用類固醇也可以這樣做。

You can do this for topical vitamin D for people who have psoriasis and this combination makes it more effective through the occlusion.

您可以為銀屑病患者外用維生素 D，這種組合通過閉塞作用使其更有效。

The next hack is using it to make your perfume last longer.

下一個小竅門是用它來延長香水的使用時間。

We've seen this one online where basically you take some Vaseline, you put it onto the skin and then you apply your perfume or your cologne directly onto it.

我們在網上看到過這樣一種方法，基本上就是取一些凡士林塗在皮膚上，然後把香水或古龍水直接塗在上面。

This will make it kind of hold on to those oils and last longer, similar to how the perfume lasts longer than the toilet I suppose.

這將使油脂更持久，就像香水比馬桶更持久一樣。

The toilet is a type of, I feel like I'm saying, is the sort of water-based fragrances and then the eau de parfum is the more oil-based fragrances.

馬桶香水，我覺得是一種水基香水，淡香水則是油基香水。

Similarly this will kind of latch on there and hold it longer and maybe even protect your skin from the fragrance if you have sensitive skin.

同樣，這也會讓香味更持久，如果你是敏感性皮膚，還能保護你的皮膚不受香味的傷害。

Right and I just wanted to try this anyway.

沒錯，我就是想試試這個。

This is uh I don't know how you say this.

我不知道該怎麼說。

Acqua di Gio Profondo.

Acqua di Gio Profondo。

That smells nice.

好香啊

So yes, fragrance can be irritating.

所以，是的，香味會刺激人。

It is highly allergenic so any sort of barrier you can put in between this and your skin is acceptable by me.

它極易引起過敏，所以我可以接受在它和你的皮膚之間添加任何隔離物。

Vaseline or petrolatum can be that barrier.

凡士林或凡士林油可以作為屏障。

Top derm level hack is wound healing.

皮膚科最高級別的問題是傷口癒合。

There's all kinds of wound healing ointments, antibiotics, topical antibiotics that you can put on the skin.

有各種傷口癒合軟膏、抗生素、局部抗生素可以塗抹在皮膚上。

If you just had surgery or you have some kind of wound and you've cleaned it thoroughly, Vaseline is the best thing for wound healing.

如果您剛做完手術或有某種傷口，並已徹底清洗乾淨，凡士林是傷口癒合的最佳選擇。

Keeping your wound moist first of all is better than keeping it dry.

首先保持傷口溼潤比保持乾燥要好。

A lot of people let their wounds dry out.

很多人任由傷口乾涸。

They think it's going to heal better.

他們認為這樣傷口會癒合得更好。

Keep your wound moist and keep it moist with Vaseline.

保持傷口溼潤，用凡士林保持傷口溼潤。

A lot of people think it's not going to allow wounds to heal because it's not letting your skin quote-unquote breathe enough.

很多人認為這樣做無法讓傷口癒合，因為這樣做會讓皮膚呼吸不暢。

It's been shown in multiple studies to aid in wound healing and make your wounds heal better and heal faster.

多項研究表明，它有助於傷口癒合，使傷口癒合得更好、更快。

Yeah and I tell this to patients all the time.

是啊，我經常跟病人這麼說。

I do a lot of surgeries on skin cancers.

我做過很多皮膚癌手術。

You don't have to tell me if you kept it covered.

你不必告訴我你是否把它蓋住了。

You don't have to tell me if you used Vaseline or an ointment.

你不必告訴我你用的是凡士林還是藥膏。

I'll tell you it is the most dramatic difference even at one to two weeks.

我會告訴你，即使是一到兩週，這也是最顯著的變化。

The most dramatic healing difference is based off of whether or not you keep it covered and goopy.

最顯著的癒合差異取決於是否保持覆蓋和粘稠。

So it is tremendous in terms of healing and then also it helps prevent secondary infections.

是以，它對傷口癒合有極大的幫助，而且還有助於防止繼發感染。

It's been studied multiple times compared to topical antibiotics shown to be as equivalent or as beneficial at preventing infections as antibiotics.

經多次研究表明，它與外用抗生素相比，在預防感染方面具有同等或相同的功效。

So again definitely great for healing your wounds.

是以，它對傷口癒合也絕對有幫助。

So after any injury making sure you clean the wound or after any surgery applying Vaseline doing that for like two to three weeks gooped up and then afterwards during the wound healing process you can switch to something with silicone in it to really try to prevent scarring.

是以，受傷後要確保傷口清潔乾淨，或者手術後要塗抹凡士林，持續兩到三週，然後在傷口癒合的過程中，可以換成含硅膠的東西，以防止留下疤痕。

But in that immediate healing phase Vaseline is the number one thing you can do for any wound.

但在傷口剛剛癒合的階段，凡士林是你能為任何傷口做的第一件事。

And interestingly this also includes burns like not immediately after the burn where it still like feels warm even though it's not like super normal warmth.

有趣的是，這也包括燒傷，比如燒傷後不會馬上感覺到溫暖，即使不是超級正常的溫暖。

After the next day or so applying Vaseline based products to even a burn wound is the best way to heal it.

第二天左右，即使是燒傷的傷口，塗抹凡士林類產品也是最好的癒合方法。

It's how most wound healing ingredients are studied.

大多數傷口癒合成分都是這樣研究出來的。

They actually look at post burn skin and then see how well an ingredient works at healing it.

他們實際上是在觀察燒傷後的皮膚，然後看看某種成分的癒合效果如何。

Vaseline is no exception.

凡士林也不例外。

So when using Vaseline one of the most common concerns I'll hear especially on the face is that it's comedogenic.

是以，在使用凡士林時，我最常聽到的一個顧慮就是它會產生粉刺，尤其是在臉上。

There's been studies to show that it is not comedogenic.

有研究表明，它不會產生粉刺。

It is not poor clogging.

堵塞情況並不嚴重。

It's not likely to cause acne.

它不會引起痤瘡。

But like we said earlier anything you occlude underneath Vaseline can make it kind of hold deeper into the skin.

但就像我們之前說的，凡士林下面的任何東西都能讓它深入皮膚。

And so if you have not cleansed your face before applying Vaseline it could lock in your acne causing bacteria.

是以，如果在塗抹凡士林之前沒有清潔面部，就可能會鎖住導致痤瘡的細菌。

So that's just the one caveat.

所以，這只是一個注意事項。

If you are going to slug with Vaseline make sure you cleanse your face before and then use it.

如果要使用凡士林，請確保在使用前清潔面部，然後再使用。

But by itself is not poor clogging.

但就其本身而言，堵塞性並不差。

That's a practical concern and probably the only real concern with this ingredient.

這是一個實際問題，可能也是這種成分唯一真正需要考慮的問題。

It also may not sit well with your skin from an aesthetic standpoint.

從美學角度來看，它也可能與你的皮膚不協調。

You may hate the feel and that is fine.

你可能不喜歡這種感覺，沒關係。

But the benefits are undeniable.

但好處是不可否認的。

So hopefully this was helpful to you.

希望這對你有所幫助。

Hopefully now you can wait a minute.

希望你現在能稍等片刻。

One thing I wanted to say this product's price also hasn't been updated since its inception.

我想說的是，這款產品的價格自推出以來也沒有更新過。

I think unless I'm wrong it was like four dollars in 1872 and it is still four dollars.

我想，除非我弄錯了，1872 年好像是 4 美元，現在還是 4 美元。

So I mean you cannot beat the cost of this byproduct.

是以，我的意思是，這種副產品的成本是無可比擬的。

It is ridiculous.

這太荒謬了。

Inflation does not touch this.

通貨膨脹並不影響這一點。

So in summary a relatively safe effective affordable skincare product that should be in everyone's skincare armamentarium whether you keep it on top of the sink or underneath the sink.

總之，這是一款相對安全有效、價格適中的護膚產品，無論你把它放在水槽上方還是水槽下方，它都應該是每個人的護膚寶典。

It is a Derm favorite.

它是皮膚科醫生的最愛。

We love it and we agree that it's safe.

我們喜歡它，也同意它是安全的。

So hopefully you all found this helpful.

希望這對你們有所幫助。

Hopefully we can maybe dive into a little bit more of the I find the history of all of these things super fascinating.

希望我們能更深入地瞭解一下這些東西的歷史，我覺得它們都超級吸引人。

Okay so we shot the whole Vaseline hacks video and two of the most important tips fell off.

好了，我們拍攝了整個凡士林小竅門視頻，有兩個最重要的小竅門掉了下來。

Occasionally this happens.

這種情況偶爾會發生。

It actually doesn't happen to us that often but we could not let this video go live without these two hacks.

實際上，這種情況並不經常發生在我們身上，但如果沒有這兩個黑客工具，我們就不能讓這段視頻上線。

The first of which you do it without thinking maybe you do it with thinking but Vaseline as a lip balm.

首先，你會不假思索地去做，也許你會帶著思考去做，但凡士林是一種潤脣膏。

Not a chapstick as I've been corrected before in the past but a lip balm.

不是潤脣膏，因為我以前被糾正過，而是潤脣膏。

So chapstick is technically a trade or brand name so you know lip balm I guess is what the function is but you could take Vaseline and you could take your favorite moisturizer and you could put Vaseline over the top of that and you can really lock in those lipids or whatever you want to lock in there or you could just use Vaseline by itself because it really is such an incredible occlusive moisturizer.