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  • At Kernal Brewery in London's Bermondsey, something unusual is brewing.

    在倫敦伯蒙奇的 Kernal 啤酒廠,正在醞釀著一件不同尋常的事情。

  • This grain left over from beer production is commonly used for animal feed or can even end up in landfill.

    啤酒生產中剩下的這些穀物通常被用作動物飼料,甚至最終被填埋。

  • But here, it's getting a new lease of life.

    但在這裡,它獲得了新生。

  • It's going to be transformed into a leather alternative known as New Grain.

    它將被改造成一種名為 New Grain 的皮革替代品。

  • No animals, no plastic.

    無動物,無塑膠。

  • And now it's time for all of this to head back to Arda Biomaterials' lab around the corner.

    現在,這一切都該回到街角的阿爾達生物材料實驗室了。

  • Once these sacks arrive at the lab, it's time for the process to begin.

    這些袋子運到實驗室後,就可以開始加工了。

  • First of all, it's emptied out into a container like this.

    首先,它被倒入這樣一個容器中。

  • And then an alkaline solution is added.

    然後加入鹼性溶液。

  • That's stirred for about an hour to extract the protein from the grain.

    攪拌大約一個小時,以提取穀物中的蛋白質。

  • Then the husk will be separated and the protein liquid will move along to the next stage where some natural ingredients will be added.

    然後,外皮將被分離,蛋白液將進入下一階段,在這一階段中,將添加一些天然成分。

  • This will be stirred for another couple of hours.

    再攪拌幾個小時。

  • And at this point, protein strings start to develop.

    此時,蛋白質串開始形成。

  • And that means that it's ready to be poured into the trays.

    這就意味著可以倒入托盤了。

  • Now, this tray here has got a pretty smooth finish.

    現在,這個托盤的表面非常光滑。

  • So that'll create something that looks like a lot of natural leathers.

    這樣就會產生一種看起來像很多天然皮革的東西。

  • If you want something even smoother than that, well, there's a tray for that too.

    如果你想要比這更平滑的,那麼也有一個托盤。

  • And for something that's a bit more of a crocodile look, well, you've even got a version like that.

    如果你想要更像鱷魚皮的外觀,你甚至可以選擇這樣的款式。

  • Varying the beer that the grain comes from by, say, using stout, will result in different final colours.

    使用不同的啤酒穀物,例如使用黑啤,會產生不同的最終顏色。

  • After the material's been sitting in the tray for a day, it's ready to peel off.

    材料在托盤中放置一天後,就可以剝離了。

  • That's so smooth. That's like PVC.

    太光滑了就像,PVC一樣。

  • Yeah, no, it's completely shiny because it's unbacked.

    是的,不,它完全是閃閃發光的,因為它沒有底座。

  • And now that just needs its sustainable backing added.

    現在只需要增加可持續支持。

  • One of the big environmental issues with leather production is actually the tanning process, though.

    不過,皮革生產的一大環境問題其實是鞣製過程。

  • And Arda is hoping for a solution.

    阿爾達希望找到解決辦法。

  • We are exploring using natural colouring agents.

    我們正在探索使用天然染色劑。

  • So there's actually a lot of deep tradition in old tanning before the advent of petrochemicals or chromium tanning.

    在石油化工產品或鉻鞣劑出現之前,古老的鞣革工藝其實就有很多深厚的傳統。

  • So we're exploring these old dyes that are naturally derived and work with the environment and biodegrade.

    我們正在探索這些天然提取、環保、可生物降解的古老染料。

  • And now for a look at some of the finished product.

    現在來看看部分成品。

  • We've got a whole roll of it here.

    我們這裡有一整卷。

  • It looks very much like leather. This one's quite soft.

    看起來很像皮革。這個相當柔軟。

  • We've got some here that have been dyed.

    我們這裡有一些是染色的。

  • It's external companies that do that because that's not actually done here.

    這都是外部公司在做,因為這裡實際上沒有這樣做。

  • But there are different textures.

    但也有不同的質地。

  • This is a bit harder, a bit more like a leather that maybe you'd have on a sofa.

    這種皮革比較硬,有點像沙發上的皮革。

  • Now, if I smell it, because I know that is the instinct with leather...

    現在,如果我聞到它的氣味,因為我知道這是皮革的本能......

  • ..it doesn't smell of much.

    ......沒什麼味道。

  • A bit like a new car, maybe, which I guess could be the smell of leather.

    有點像新車的味道,我猜可能是皮革的味道。

  • It's not quite the same.

    這不完全一樣。

  • But they are looking at being able to customise it to smell however somebody might want it to.

    不過,他們正在研究是否能夠定製它的氣味,以滿足人們的任何需求。

  • Or of nothing, possibly.

    也可能什麼都沒有。

  • These two are made from different types of beer, so the colour is authentic.

    這兩種啤酒由不同類型的啤酒製成,所以顏色是真實的。

  • They do feel less like leather to me, I think because they're harder and more solid.

    我覺得它們確實不像皮革,因為它們更硬更結實。

  • The more flexible ones that are used for something like a handbag feel more like leather and they've just got that movement to them.

    用於手提包等物品的柔韌性更強的材料手感更像皮革,而且具有動感。

  • On a big sheet here, this could make a bag that would actually fit my laptop, that feels a lot softer, it moves around more like leather does.

    在這一大張紙上,它可以做成一個能裝下我的筆電的包,而且手感更柔軟,活動起來更像皮革。

  • But I think the main point is there's a lot of flexibility as to how the finish is going to end up looking and what can be done to it afterwards.

    但我認為最重要的一點是,飾面的最終效果以及之後的處理方式都有很大的靈活性。

  • There's competition, though.

    不過也有競爭。

  • There are lots of other leather alternatives that are coming online and they each have different positives and negatives.

    網上出現了許多其他皮革替代品,它們各有利弊。

  • Our solution offers a way to scale.

    我們的解決方案提供了一種擴展方法。

  • Do you think it's going to be cheaper than leather?- Yes.

    你認為它會比皮革便宜嗎?- 是的

  • How much cheaper?

    便宜多少?

  • Well, currently, a lot of the breweries we work with at the moment give away their grain for free.

    目前,與我們合作的很多釀酒廠都免費贈送穀物。

  • So our feedstock is coming in at an extremely low value.

    所以我們的原料價格極低。

  • Some of the bigger breweries sell it, but it's quite low.

    一些較大的釀酒廠也出售這些穀物,但價格很低。

  • So at scale, we calculate that we can undercut leather and plastic leather.

    根據規模計算,我們可以壓低皮革和塑膠皮革的價格。

  • And when do you think I'm going to be able to go out and buy a handbag made out of this?

    你覺得我什麼時候才能買到一個用啤酒穀物做的手提包呢?

  • Hopefully this time next year.

    希望明年的這個時候。

  • And it's going to be a cheap handbag?

    會是一個便宜的手提包嗎?

  • It'll start as a small collection to certain clients and then into luxury, and then slowly moving down the luxury market into more commodity and high street.

    它將從面向特定客戶的小型系列開始,然後進入奢侈品市場,再慢慢從奢侈品市場轉向更多的商品和商業區。

  • And what's worth having if there isn't a queue or a waiting list?

    如果沒有排隊或候補名單,又有什麼值得擁有呢?

At Kernal Brewery in London's Bermondsey, something unusual is brewing.

在倫敦伯蒙奇的 Kernal 啤酒廠,正在醞釀著一件不同尋常的事情。

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