I've been doing the man weaves for about three years now,

我做男士接髪大約有三年了。

and I've been cutting hair for a total of 10 years.

而我作為理髪師已有十年。

So, the first step that we're gonna do, all the time, is we're going to draw his hairline.

不管如何，第一步要做的都是畫髮際線。

This is the most important part, 'cause once you put the glue and the hair down, you really can't move it.

這是最重要的部分，因為一旦塗上膠水和接上頭髮，就不能調整了。

I'm just gonna go, and I'm gonna cut his hair down.

我會直接推掉他的頭髮。

We're going to give ourself a clean foundation.

得有一個乾淨的基礎。

We're going to clean the scalp with alcohol,

要用酒精先擦乾淨頭皮。

so that way when we go and we lay the glue down,

這樣，當我們塗上膠水時。

it's going down on a perfect surface where it's really going to last the longest.

就會是在一個平整的表面上，這樣接髮會維持得最久。

The scalp protectant goes on after that, and then I use my Ghost Bond lace wig adhesive.

之後再塗上頭皮保護劑，然後用 Ghost Bond 假髮膠水。

So, I use hair glue. I laid the wrap down, and I just blow-dried it.

用了假髮膠水後，把髮套戴上，然後吹乾。

There's really not any special tools.

我其實沒用什麼特殊工具。

Most of the stuff that we're using is stuff that's already being used in the barbershop,

我們使用的大部分工具，都是一般理髮店可以看到的。

when it comes to our clippers, our shears, things like that.

像理髮器、理髮剪，這種東西。

In the barbershop, you know,

在男仕理髮廳，

the things that we're really bringing in, that are new to us as barbers,

對理髮師來說是新體驗的東西

is the adhesives, the scalp protectants, the things like that. The hair that we're using.

是假髮膠水、頭皮保護劑之類的東西，還有我正在使用的這種頭髮。

You see that stuff a lot more in a salon than you would a barbershop.

與在男仕理髮廳相比，你可能比較常在沙龍看到這些東西。

Now I'm taking a stocking cap,

我現在拿著的是髮帽。

I'm putting it over that, and this is the final step of creating the base.

套上去，這是我們打基礎的最後一步。

It's going to help it last longer.

可以讓髮型撐久一點。

This is what they call sweat durable.

這就是大家說的抗汗步驟。

So it can really stand up to a lot more moisture than units that are glued straight to the base cap.

與直接把假髮黏在底蓋上，這能承受更多水份。

The units, they last anywhere from one week all the way up to two months.

這髮型能撐一星期至兩個月。

If you get somebody that really takes care of their unit,

如果客人好好維護髮型，

their unit's still going to look, I mean, pretty fresh.

他們回來找我時，髮型還是可以跟剛做好差不多。

You might have just some normal wear and tear, hair starting to peel away a little bit.

可能會有一些正常磨損，頭髮有點脫落，

They really just start to look like you need a haircut.

但只會看起來像是頭髮得剪了而已。

This is black electrical tape.

這是黑色電工膠帶。

And just to make sure I get a nice straight hairline, I'm going to lay that down as a guide,

為確保髮際線筆直，我會把它當作為基準線，

and I'm going to take my Ghost Bond adhesive, put it right over it,

接著把 Ghost Bond 假髮膠水塗在上方。

and then I peel the tape off and I have a perfect line.

最後把膠帶撕掉，完美髮線就誕生了。

The first step that I'm doing when it comes to laying the hair is I basically take the dreadlock,

關於放上假髮，要做的第一步基本上就是拿起髒辮，

I comb out the very bottom of it, just about maybe a half inch to three-quarters inch,

然後把尾端梳開，大概在半英寸到四分之三英寸左右的位置，

and then I'm just laying it right on his hairline.

接著把它放在髮際線上。

So basically this is just creating the hairline going all the way around,

基本上就是在創造一個延伸的髮際線，

and I'm laying them to where they fall out.

我會把它們鋪在會有點突出來的地方。

So then when I go and I cut them on the edge,

這樣，當我在邊緣修剪的時候，

it looks realistic because you can still kind of see his scalp through the dreadlocks.

頭髮就會看起來很真，因為還可以看到髒辮下的頭皮。

For the rest of the unit, now I'm going to use the black hair glue.

這個髮型的其餘部分，將使用到黑色假髮膠。

The black hair glue, it's a lot more durable glue.

這是一種更耐久的膠水。

These dreadlocks, they get heavy,

這些髒辮很重，

and so with this glue, when you lay it on there, it's going to hold on there tight.

但這種膠水可以讓髒辮緊緊固定住。

You're not going to have to worry about it coming off.

就不必擔心它們會脫落。

I'd say the hardest part of the process is sometimes working with the clients and giving them exactly what they want.

我覺得這整個過程中，最難的部分有時是與客戶溝通，並完成他們的期待。

A lot of people will come in with unrealistic expectations.

很多人都會來帶著不切實際的期望來店裡。

I try to be as transparent as I can with my clients and kind of go off their situation

我會儘量對客戶坦承，去了解他們的情況，

and give them something that's really going to fit them and is going to look the most realistic,

找出真正適合他們，看起來最自然的髮型。

so when they're out in public people aren't just staring at them and wondering what they got going on on their head.

所以當他們出門時，人們才不會盯著他們，想說他們的頭是怎麼了。

The black hair glue does not dry transparent, so that's why I don't use it on the outer ridge.

黑色假髮膠水乾的時候不會是透明，所以我不會在外圍使用。

Like I said, when I cut down that outer ridge, I want to be able to see his scalp.

就像剛才說的，當修剪好外圈時，我希望要能看到頭皮。

So now it looks more realistic.

現在看起來更真實了。

So I like to go through, and I might, like, pull some strands, make sure they're tight,

我喜歡全部檢查一遍，拉一拉這些髒辮，確保它們有固定好。

and just kind of compress everything.

有點像是把整個髮型壓緊。

After all the hair is installed,

在所有髒辮都裝好後，

now you're really just going through, you're going to do your haircut.

現在輪到修剪髮型的時間了。

Once you put all the hair on and you get to start cutting it,

一旦把所有頭髮接好，開始剪頭髮，

that's when it really just feels like you're just doing a normal haircut.

一切就像在做一般理髮了。

I'm just going through, I'm cutting down that excess hair on the front.

我會掃過一遍，修剪邊緣前面那些多餘的頭髮。

And that's when it really starts to look realistic, 'cause now you can start seeing his scalp.

這時，髮型才開始變自然，因為現在可以看到頭皮了。

You can start seeing the excess hair from the dreads starting to come off, and you don't see the glue,

可以開始看到辮子上多餘的頭髮落下，而不會看到膠水。

and then I can go off and create my outline around the dreads, and kind of create that separation.

然後就可以圍繞著髒辮修出髮際線。

When a unit starts to really look good is when you start to edge it up.

修剪髮線邊緣時，才是整個髮型開始變好看的時候。

So you really get all types of reactions from the client.

我從客戶那裡得到的反饋真的各式各樣都有。

You never know what you're going to get.

你永遠不會知道會得到什麼反應。

I've had people cry. I've had people get up, give me hugs, just really all types of things.

有人哭了、有人站起來，給我擁抱，真的各式各樣都有。

A lot of these people that come in haven't had hair in maybe 10 or 20 years,

很多進來的客人都 10 年或 20 年沒頭髮了。

and so you're really giving them their youth back.

而這就像是幫他們返老還童一樣。

You get a lot of people that come in,

很多人進來，

they get the hair done, they get up,

做完頭髮，起身，

and they're just amazed with how they look.

他們對自己的樣子感到驚艷。

And, you know, some people don't know how to act sometimes.

有人甚至會不知所措。

Here I'm using enhancements, just to kind of blend anything in that needs to be blended in,

這裡，我用了增色劑，為了融合頭髮，讓髮型更流暢。

if there's any seams or anything like that.

以防有任何接縫之類的。

I try not to use as much enhancement.

我儘量不使用那麼多增色劑。

If I can get away without using any enhancement on a unit, that's always my goal.

如果可以不使用最好，那是我的目標。

But, you know, depending on people's balding patterns, sometimes you may need some to make it look more realistic.

但這取決於人們禿頭的樣子，有時可能多少需要用一點，看起來比較自然。