Myth.

神話。

"You have dandruff because your scalp is dry."

"你有頭皮屑是因為你的頭皮很乾燥。"

Dandruff isn't a dry-scalp problem,

頭皮屑不是一個乾性頭皮問題。

it's actually almost always oily.

實際上，它幾乎總是油膩的。

"Shampooing causes extra hair loss."

"洗髮導致額外的脫髮"。

Myth.

神話。

Hi, I'm Anabel Kingsley.

嗨，我是安娜貝爾-金斯利。

I'm consultant trichologist

我是毛髮學顧問

and brand president at Philip Kingsley,

和Philip Kingsley的品牌總裁。

and a trichologist is a scientist of the hair and scalp.

而毛髮學家是頭髮和頭皮的科學家。

Hi, I'm Dr. Howard.

你好，我是霍華德博士。

I'm a New York-based board-certified dermatologist

我是一名駐紐約的委員會認證的皮膚科醫生

and the founder of Girl+Hair.

和 "女孩+頭髮 "的創始人。

Dermatology is the study of the skin, scalp,

皮膚病學是對皮膚、頭皮的研究。

hair, and mucus membranes.

頭髮和粘膜。

And today we will be debunking myths about hair.

而今天我們將揭開關於頭髮的神話。

"Hair grows faster when you constantly cut it."

"當你不斷剪頭髮時，頭髮長得更快"。

Myth.

神話。

Kingsley: Hair grows around half an inch a month,

金斯利：頭髮每個月大約長半英寸。

and cutting it won't speed up that process.

削減它不會加快這一進程。

On average, we have around 120,000

平均而言，我們有大約12萬名

hair follicles on our scalp,

我們頭皮上的毛囊。

and they're all going through

而他們都在經歷

different phases of the hair-growth cycle.

頭髮生長週期的不同階段。

Correct, correct.

正確，正確。

Kingsley: So there's anagen,

金斯利：所以有anagen。

catagen, telogen, and exogen.

catagen, telogen, and exogen。

Howard-Verovic: And right now on your scalp ...

霍華德-維羅維奇：而現在在你的頭皮上......。

Kingsley: Generally up to 90% of hairs

金斯利：一般來說，高達90%的毛髮

will be in the growth phase.

將處於增長階段。

Howard-Verovic: And then the rest are waiting to fall out.

霍華德-維羅維奇：然後剩下的就等著掉出來。

Kingsley: And then some are shedding.

金斯利：然後有些是脫落的。

So hair is not going to grow faster if you cut it,

是以，如果你剪了頭髮，頭髮是不會長得更快的。

but it will look nice if you get your trims regularly.

但如果你定期進行修剪，它將看起來很好。

"You have dandruff because your scalp is dry."

"你有頭皮屑是因為你的頭皮很乾燥。"

Dandruff isn't a dry-scalp problem,

頭皮屑不是一個乾性頭皮問題。

it's actually almost always oily.

實際上，它幾乎總是油膩的。

Dandruff is also known as seborrheic dermatitis,

頭皮屑也被稱為脂溢性皮炎。

an overgrowth of naturally occurring yeast

自然發生的酵母菌的過度生長

on your scalp called the Malassezia yeast.

你的頭皮上有一種叫做馬拉色菌的酵母。

And they are lipophilic, which means they love oils.

而且它們是親脂性的，這意味著它們喜歡油。

Howard-Verovic: They love sebum.

霍華德-維羅維奇：他們喜歡皮脂。

Kingsley: Yes, they gobble it up.

金斯利：是的，他們狼吞虎嚥。

And the more oil is on your scalp ...

而且頭皮上的油越多...

Howard-Verovic: The happier they are.

霍華德-維羅維奇：他們越是高興。

Kingsley: Yes, the happier they are.

金斯利：是的，他們越是高興。

The more flakes you tend to see.

你往往看到的片狀物越多。

You might find it's behind your ears,

你可能會發現它在你的耳朵後面。

on the side of your nose, eyebrows.

在你的鼻子邊上，眉毛。

And it can be right here even.

而且它甚至可以在這裡。

Wherever the yeast likes the sebum.

酵母菌喜歡哪裡的皮脂就在哪裡。

Kingsley: Some things to treat dandruff

金斯利：治療頭皮屑的一些東西

are targeted shampoos, scalp toners,

是有針對性的洗髮水，頭皮爽膚水。

scalp masks, and also,

頭皮面具，也是如此。

look at what you're eating.

看看你在吃什麼。

"Washing your hair every day is bad for you."

"每天洗頭對你有害。"

It's a myth, but there is some fact in there.

這是一個神話，但也有一些事實在裡面。

You want to treat your scalp just as you treat your skin.

你要像對待皮膚一樣對待你的頭皮。

So you want to make sure it's properly cleansed.

所以你要確保它得到適當的清潔。

You want to make sure you have good hydration on the scalp.

你要確保你的頭皮有良好的水合作用。

If you are a very active person,

如果你是一個非常活躍的人。

maybe you want to cleanse some more.

也許你想再清洗一下。

Fine hair like mine, if I don't shampoo daily,

像我這樣的細發，如果我不每天洗髮的話。

my roots get very greasy and flat.

我的根部變得非常油膩和扁平。

And the reason for this is that

而其原因是

when you have fine hair,

當你有細小的頭髮時。

you have more hairs on your scalp,

你的頭皮上有更多的毛髮。

and therefore you have more oil glands on your scalp,

是以，你的頭皮上有更多的油腺。

because every hair is attached to an oil gland.

因為每根頭髮都與一個油腺相連。

Whereas coarser hair textures ...

而較粗的頭髮質地...

Howard-Verovic: Sometimes the sebum has a hard time

霍華德-維羅維奇：有時皮脂會有困難

leaving the scalp to the tip of the hair.

離開頭皮到頭髮的頂端。

And it's counterintuitive,

而這是反直覺的。

because you think that maybe coily hair or textured hair,

因為你認為可能是捲曲的頭髮或有紋理的頭髮。

you don't want to wash it a lot,

你不希望經常清洗它。

but actually the washing process

但實際上清洗過程中

is a part of the hydration process.

是水化過程的一部分。

So the more you wash, the more you hydrate.

是以，你洗得越多，你的水分就越多。

"Shaving causes hair to grow back thicker and darker."

"剃鬚會使毛髮重新長出，變得更粗更黑。"

Myth. So, hair naturally grows tapered.

神話。所以，頭髮自然會變細長。

So when you shave, you just make the ends blunt,

是以，當你刮鬍子時，你只是把兩端弄得很鈍。

and you're cutting the hair

而你卻在剪頭髮

at a thicker point along the hair shaft.

沿著頭髮軸的一個較厚的點。

So shaving may appear to make your hair

是以，剃鬚可能看起來會使你的頭髮

grow thicker and darker, but it actually doesn't.

越來越厚，越來越黑，但實際上並沒有。

Howard-Verovic: If you were to wax, you're taking the hair

霍華德-維羅維奇：如果你要打蠟，你就會把毛髮

out of the follicle. So it's still going to grow back.

從卵泡裡出來。所以它還是會再長出來。

Kingsley: Tapered.

金斯利：錐形的。

If shaving did make our hair grow back thicker,

如果剃鬚確實使我們的頭髮重新長粗。

I'd shave my hair.

我想剃掉我的頭髮。

"Air-drying your hair is better than blow-drying."

"風乾頭髮比吹乾頭髮更好。"

It depends on your method again.

這又取決於你的方法。

So if you are air-drying,

是以，如果你是風乾的。

but your method of air-drying

但你的風乾方法

is really scrunching or constantly tugging

是真正的撓癢癢或不斷拉扯

and, you know,

而且，你知道。

that's going to be more damaging.

這將是更大的破壞性。

Or, you know what, I know some people who "air-dry,"

或者，你知道嗎，我知道有些人是 "風乾 "的。

but they're, like, running out of the house,

但他們，就像，跑出了家門。

and they'll swoop their hair in a ponytail,

他們會把頭髮梳成馬尾辮。

but it's wet in the middle but dry on the outside.

但它中間是溼的，外面是乾的。

That could be a problem with that wet hair

這可能是一個溼發的問題

all the time in the middle

一直在中間

or at the base of your scalp.

或在你的頭皮底部。

So if you just brush your hair gently

是以，如果你只是輕輕地梳理你的頭髮

and let it dry without really touching it much,

並讓它在沒有真正接觸它的情況下乾燥。

without roughly towel-drying it, that's fine.

沒有用毛巾粗略地擦乾，那就可以了。

But equally, blow-drying doesn't have to be damaging

但同樣地，吹風也不一定會造成傷害

if you do it in the right way.

如果你以正確的方式去做。

Howard-Verovic: And using a heat-protectant spray.

霍華德-維羅維奇：並使用防熱噴霧。

You should hold it at least six inches away.

你應該至少在六英寸以外握住它。

Like, around this far away.

比如，在這麼遠的地方。

You can start on a medium heat setting,

你可以用中火設置開始。

and then reduce to low as you go.

然後邊走邊減到低。

You use the back of your hand as a reference.

你用你的手背作為參考。

If it feels too hot, it's too hot for your hair.

如果感覺太熱，對你的頭髮來說就是太熱了。

Howard-Verovic: Especially with curly or coily

霍華德-維羅維奇：尤其是捲髮或盤發的人。

or zigzag-pattern hair,

或人字形圖案的頭髮。

a hooded dryer may be a good choice

罩式烘乾機可能是一個不錯的選擇

if you like to wear wigs, weaves, box braids.

如果你喜歡戴假髮，編髮，箱形辮子。

And sometimes air-drying it might not be the best option,

而且有時風乾它可能不是最好的選擇。

because you can get mold and mildew within the braids

因為你可能會在辮子裡發黴和發臭

if it's not dried properly.

如果它沒有被適當地烘乾。

One isn't necessarily better than the other.

一個並不一定比另一個好。

All method dependent.

所有的方法都取決於。

"Shampooing causes extra hair loss."

"洗髮導致額外的脫髮"。

Myth. This is something that I hear all the time.

神話。這是我經常聽到的事情。

What shampooing does

洗髮的作用

is it simply dislodges hairs

它只是簡單地使毛髮脫落

that were sitting loosely in their hair follicle

在他們的毛囊中鬆散地坐著的那些人

and were ready to come out.

並準備出來了。

So you're not actually causing hair loss.

所以你實際上並沒有造成脫髮。

It's normal to lose up to 100 hairs a day.

每天損失多達100根頭髮是正常的。

But I really do encourage my clients

但我真的鼓勵我的客戶

who are experiencing excessive daily hair shedding

每天都有過度脫髮現象的人

to shampoo regularly, because it's really important

定期洗髮，因為這真的很重要。

in terms of keeping your scalp healthy.

在保持頭皮健康方面。

And the healthier your scalp is,

而且你的頭皮也越發健康。

the better able it is

越是能幹

to support new healthy hair growth.

以支持新的健康頭髮生長。

I 100% agree.

我100%同意。

Kingsley: Focus on your scalp when you shampoo,

金斯利。在洗髮時要關注你的頭皮。

and just the suds that run down

而只是流下的肥皂水

through the length of your hair

通過你的頭髮長度

will be enough to cleanse them.

將足以清洗它們。

"Only shaving causes ingrown hairs."

"只有剃鬚才會導致毛髮倒生。"

Myth.

神話。

Waxing can cause ingrown hairs.

打蠟可能導致毛髮倒生。

With any hair-removal method,

用任何脫毛的方法。

if you break the hair

如果你打破頭髮

instead of pulling it out from the root,

而不是從根部拔出。

you're more likely to get an ingrown hair,

你更有可能得到內生毛髮。

because the end will be blunt as opposed to tapered.

因為末端會是鈍的，而不是錐形的。

Howard-Verovic: It's all about, when you cut the hair,

霍華德-維羅維奇：這都是關於，你什麼時候剪的頭髮。

the angle at which you're cutting.

你要切割的角度。

It goes back into the skin.

它回到了皮膚中。

So you have a curling,

所以你有一個冰壺。

but what happens when that curling occurs?

但是，當這種捲曲發生時，會發生什麼？

There is an inflammatory response

有一個發炎反應

that happens with that curling.

這發生在捲曲的情況下。

So that's where you get the red bump,

是以，這就是你得到紅色凸起的地方。

and sometimes that red bump

有時那紅色的凸起

could become a pus-filled bump,

可能成為一個充滿膿液的凸起。

and you can have a real situation there.

而且你可以在那裡有一個真實的情況。

Perhaps shaving after shower.

也許洗澡後要刮鬍子。

Using a blade designated

使用指定的刀片

for sensitive skin could be helpful.

敏感皮膚的人可能會有幫助。

Kingsley: Or a fresh, sharp blade.

金斯利。或者是一把新鮮、鋒利的刀片。

Howard-Verovic: Yes.

霍華德-維羅維奇：是的。

Kingsley: And also exfoliation.

金斯利：還有去角質。

So gentle exfoliation maybe once or twice a week.

是以，溫和的去角質可能每週一次或兩次。

Howard-Verovic: Yes, absolutely.

霍華德-維羅維奇：是的，當然。

"Stress makes you have gray hair."

"壓力使你有白髮。"

Well, there are elements of truth and myth to this.

嗯，這裡面有真理和神話的成分。

So, when you go gray is largely dependent on genes.

是以，你什麼時候變白主要取決於基因。

So if your mother or your father went gray early,

是以，如果你的母親或你的父親早早地白了頭。

it does increase the chances that you will too.

它確實增加了你也會這樣做的機會。

But stress can certainly speed up the process.

但壓力肯定會加速這一過程。

Your hair's color is determined

你的頭髮的顏色是確定的

by something called melanin, which is pigment.

由一種叫做黑色素的東西，也就是色素。

And the color of your hair,

還有你頭髮的顏色。

ranging from blond hair,

從金黃色的頭髮不等。

which will have less melanin,

這將有較少的黑色素。

to darker hair, which will have a lot more melanin.

到深色的頭髮，這將有更多的黑色素。

When your hair bulb stops producing these pigment cells

當你的毛球停止生產這些色素細胞時

is when you start to turn gray.

是你開始變白的時候。

I think embracing the gray can look beautiful,

我認為擁抱灰色可以看起來很美。

or you can color over them. Whatever works for you.

或者你可以在它們上面著色。只要適合你就好。

"If you pluck a gray hair,

"如果你拔了一根白頭髮。

two more will grow in its place."

在它的位置上還會再長出兩個。"

Myth.

神話。

Kingsley: What I find happens

金斯利：我發現發生了什麼

is that when you notice one gray hair,

是，當你注意到一根白髮的時候。

you go searching for others.

你去尋找其他人。

Howard-Verovic: So maybe you're just looking more,

霍華德-維羅維奇：所以也許你只是看多了。

as you're saying.

正如你所說的。

Like a private eye.

像一個私人偵探。

And you find them everywhere.

而且你會發現它們無處不在。

A strand scrutinizer.

仔細檢查股的人。

She's saying it's all in your mind.

她說這都是你的想法。

There is no data that show that

沒有數據顯示

if you pluck a gray hair,

如果你拔了一根白頭髮。

you'll have two sprout up.

你會有兩個人發芽。

Kingsley: This myth is really common,

金斯利：這個神話真的很常見。

but I just think maybe it's a word of caution,

但我只是認為這也許是一個謹慎的說法。

because you shouldn't pluck gray hairs out.

因為你不應該把白頭髮拔掉。

Because over time,

因為隨著時間的推移。

if you continuously pull a hair out of its follicle,

如果你連續從毛囊中拔出一根頭髮。

you can damage the hair follicle.

你可能會損壞毛囊。

You don't want to damage your follicles.

你不希望損害你的毛囊。

We love them so much.

我們非常喜歡他們。

And you think, "Well,

而你認為，"好吧。

one isn't going to make a difference,"

一個人是不會有所作為的。"

but when one turns into 30

但當一個人變成30歲時

and you're constantly plucking 30 or more,

而你不斷地拔掉30個或更多。

then you can get patches of hair loss on your scalp.

那麼你的頭皮上就會出現成片的脫髮。

And that's never good.

而這絕不是好事。

"You can repair a split end."

"你可以修復分裂的末端。"

Myth. Once it's split, that's it.

神話。一旦分裂，就是這樣了。

It's split. Oh! Nice rhyme.

它是分裂的。哦！不錯的韻律。

Thanks.

謝謝。

Split ends happen because of general day-to-day weathering.

頭髮分叉是由於一般的日常風化而發生的。

So blow-drying, brushing,

所以吹風，刷牙。

towel-drying it roughly,

用毛巾粗略地擦乾它。

wind exposure, UV exposure.

風暴露，紫外線暴露。

Howard-Verovic: That cool wooly hat that you bought

霍華德-維羅維奇：你買的那頂很酷的毛線帽

that you think is so cool

你認為是如此的酷

that you want to wear all winter.

你想穿整個冬天的衣服。

Kingsley: So, hair doesn't regenerate itself.

金斯利：所以，頭髮不會自己再生。

Treat your hair like your favorite cashmere sweater.

像對待你最喜歡的羊絨衫一樣對待你的頭髮。

But if you want a true cure for a split end,

但如果你想真正治療分叉的問題。

you have to cut it off.

你必須把它切斷。

"Baldness is only passed down through your mother."

"禿頭只通過你的母親傳下來。"

Losing your hair has some genetic components,

脫髮有一些遺傳因素。

but it's not only 'cause mom lost her hair.

但這不僅僅是因為媽媽失去了她的頭髮。

The baldness gene could be passed from your mother's side,

禿頭的基因可能是從你母親那邊傳過來的。

could be passed from your father's side.

可能是從你父親那邊傳過來的。

It could even be inherited from a grandparent

它甚至可能是從祖父母那裡繼承來的

or a great-grandparent.

或曾祖父母。

There are many different types of hair loss.

有許多不同類型的脫髮。

So hereditary hair loss or "baldness,"

是以，遺傳性脫髮或 "禿頭 "的問題。

which, I don't really like that term.

其中，我不太喜歡這個詞。

I don't like that term either.

我也不喜歡這個詞。

It's called androgenic alopecia or reduced hair volume.

這被稱為雄激素性脫髮症或頭髮量減少。

So, androgenic alopecia is a genetic type of hair loss

所以，雄性激素脫髮是一種遺傳類型的脫髮

that can be inherited from either

可以繼承自

your mother or your father's side.