from its curing process,

從它的固化過程。

which is like no other, using molasses,

這和其他的不一樣，使用糖蜜。

brown sugar, and a local black porter.

紅糖和當地的黑波特酒。

Soaking the ham in this sweet marinade

將火腿浸泡在這種甜美的醃製液中

doesn't just turn it black,

並不只是把它變成黑色。

it helps balance the flavor and break away

它有助於平衡味道和打破

from those more salty flavors of hams

從那些更鹹的火腿的味道

that are dry-cured only using salt.

只用鹽進行乾式醃製的產品。

The whole process takes 10 weeks,

整個過程需要10周。

in which the ham is first dry-cured,

火腿在其中首先被幹醃製。

then marinated, and then smoked.

然後進行醃製，再進行熏製。

But it's all worth it.

但這一切都值得。

And here, Suffolk, England,

而在這裡，英國的薩福克。

is where this has been happening for over 200 years.

這是200多年來一直在發生的事情。

How much beer is this?

這有多少啤酒？

Like, this is quite a huge barrel.

比如，這是一個相當大的桶。

Mark: This is 39.5 liters of black porter beer.

馬克：這是39.5升的黑波特啤酒。

Claudia: OK.

克勞迪婭：好的。

Mark: It's like a stout, it's like a Guinness,

馬克：這就像黑啤酒，就像吉尼斯啤酒。

and this is the basis for our black hams.

這就是我們的黑火腿的基礎。

Claudia: All right, and is this a local beer, right?

克勞迪婭：好的，這是在地啤酒，對嗎？

Mark: This is a local beer from Nethergate Brewery

馬克：這是尼德蓋特啤酒廠的在地啤酒。

in Clare, which is an hour and 20 minutes from here.

在克萊爾，離這裡有一個小時20分鐘。

Claudia: As Mark releases the pressure in the barrel,

克勞迪婭：當馬克釋放桶中的壓力時。

the porter drains out into a cooker.

將波特的水排到鍋裡。

Here is where we will make enough marinade

這裡是我們將製作足夠的醃製液的地方

to soak 40 hams.

浸泡40根火腿。

Mark: So you may want to dip your finger

馬克：所以你可能想用你的手指蘸一下

in there and try it.

在那裡嘗試。

Claudia: Can I go? Yeah?

我可以去嗎？是嗎？

Nice.

不錯。

Yeah, it's quite a good beer.

是的，這是很好的啤酒。

Can I have a glass?

我可以喝杯酒嗎？

Mark: The whole point of the marinade

馬克: 醃製的整個要點是

is that the marinade gets into the gammon.

醃製液會進入伽馬肉中。

It adds depth, adds flavor.

它增加了深度，增加了味道。

During the period of marination,

在醃製期間。

the muscles are softened by the beer.

肌肉被啤酒所軟化。

So if you sit in the bath for half an hour

是以，如果你在浴缸裡坐了半小時

and you look at your fingers,

和你看你的手指。

they sort of dry out and wrinkle.

他們有點乾枯和起皺。

Well, this is in a bath for six weeks.

好吧，這是在浴缸裡泡了六個星期。

Claudia: The beer first cooks on its own

克勞迪婭：啤酒首先要自己煮。

for three hours at 95 degrees Celsius.

在95攝氏度的溫度下放置三小時。

Then Mark adds sugar and molasses to the marinade.

然後馬克將糖和糖蜜加入到醃製液中。

Yeah, there's quite a lot of sugar.

是的，有相當多的糖。

This looks like we're making cake.

這看起來像我們在做蛋糕。

Mark: It smells just like it, yeah.

馬克：它聞起來就像它，是的。

Claudia: So why is this recipe so sweet?

克勞迪婭：那麼為什麼這個食譜這麼甜呢？

Mark: It goes back a long way.

馬克：這可以追溯到很久之前。

I think it's all part of adding flavor to meat

我認為這都是為肉類添加風味的一部分

when meat was very salty.

當肉是非常鹹的。

Because when you think about it, there was no

因為當你想一想，沒有

refrigeration back in the 1800s, 1900s, or very little,

早在19世紀、20世紀，製冷設備還是非常少。

and you wanted to preserve your meat.

而你想保存你的肉。

And the way to preserve it

以及保存它的方法

was with salt, but also the salt,

是用鹽的，但也是鹽。

it's not particularly pleasant to eat a lot of salt.

吃很多鹽不是特別愉快。

So this was a way of dispersing the salt.

所以這是一種分散鹽分的方法。

Claudia: Oh, sticky.

克勞迪婭：哦，粘粘的。

Mark: Pure-grade molasses.

標記：純正的糖蜜。

Much blacker than you --

比你黑得多 --

Claudia: Ooh!

克勞迪婭：哦!

Mark: As you can see, this is part of the

馬克：正如你所看到的，這是我的一部分。

ingredients for black ham.

黑火腿的配料。

Claudia: Dense!

克勞迪婭：密密麻麻的!

Mark: It also being sweet

馬克：這也是一種甜蜜

adds not overly sweetness to the ham.

為火腿添加不過分的甜味。

It's quite a strong flavor.

這是一種相當強烈的味道。

Claudia: It's giving me some Christmas vibes,

克勞迪婭：它給了我一些聖誕節的感覺。

sugar mixing.

拌糖。

Look at that.

看看這個。

It's a fountain.

這是個噴泉。

In total, each marinade contains

總的來說，每一種醃製材料都含有

almost 40 kilos of brown sugar and molasses.

近40公斤的紅糖和糖蜜。

Once the marinade is ready,

一旦醃製好了。

it is left to cool down for a day.

它被放置在那裡冷卻一天。

In the meantime, Mark strings the gammons,

在此期間，馬克給火腿腸上了弦。

which have already been cured with natural salt,

已經用天然鹽醃製過的。

black pepper, and fennel seed.

黑胡椒和茴香籽。

Mark: This is the leg of a free-range pig.

馬克：這是一隻放養的豬的腿。

This is around 11 kilos in weight.

這大約是11公斤的重量。

So this is just the rear leg of the pig, nothing else.

所以這只是豬的後腿，沒有別的。

This is ham, not sham.

這是火腿，不是假的。

Do you want to hold that?

你想拿著這個嗎？

Claudia: 11 kilos. OK, that's like a kettlebell.

克勞迪婭：11公斤。好的，這就像一個壺鈴。

Mark: It's quite heavy.

馬克：它相當重。

Here you have 20 gammons on the bone.

這裡有20個帶骨頭的甘蒙。

This has been in here for a week so far.

到目前為止，這個東西在這裡已經有一個星期了。

Claudia: It has lost a little bit in terms of size.

克勞迪婭：在規模上，它已經失去了一點。

Mark: As you can see, it is gaining color,

馬克：正如你所看到的，它正在獲得色彩。

taste, flavor straightaway.

味道，味道直接。

I turn them twice a week.

我每週翻動它們兩次。

I don't go to the gym. I lift ham and bacon.

我不去健身房。我舉起火腿和培根。

But by turning them, you get rid of the white patches

但通過轉動它們，你可以擺脫白色斑塊

and you get an even distribution of flavor

而且你可以得到均勻的味道分佈

throughout the ham. Because as you can see,

整個火腿。因為正如你所看到的。

it's quite dense meat,

它是相當密集的肉。

and where they sit on top of each other,

以及他們坐在彼此上面的地方。

they don't get that flavor.

他們沒有得到這種味道。

Claudia: So this is a very long marinating process.

克勞迪婭：所以這是一個非常漫長的醃製過程。

Much longer than other curing processes.

比其他固化過程長很多。

Mark: There's a nice color already there, you see?

馬克：那裡已經有一個漂亮的顏色了，你看到了嗎？

Claudia: Yeah, and the black starts to come out.

克勞迪婭：是的，黑色的東西開始出來了。

[Claudia laughs]

[克勞迪婭笑]

OK, I can't do it.

好吧，我不能這樣做。

The whole room smells quite strong.

整個房間的氣味相當強烈。

It's, like, a bit tangy, sweet.

這就像，有點羶味，有點甜味。

Mark: You're smelling the beer. It's yeasty.

馬克：你在聞啤酒的味道。它是酵母味的。

Claudia: Yeah, yeasty.

克勞迪婭：是的，酵母味。

The meat soaks in the marinade for six weeks.

肉在醃製液中浸泡了六個星期。

As the marinade penetrates the meat,

隨著醃製液滲透到肉中。

the skin gets darker.

皮膚變得更黑。

But for all flavors to really come together,

但是為了讓所有的味道真正地結合起來。

we need a final touch: smoking.

我們需要最後的潤色：吸菸。

At Emmett's, the hams are cold-smoked,

在埃米特家，火腿是冷薰的。

which means that the temperature of the smokehouse

這意味著，煙室的溫度

is no more than 48 degrees Celsius.

是不超過48攝氏度。

Hotter, and they will cook.

更熱的時候，它們會被煮熟。

Mark: This is our original smokehouse.

馬克：這是我們最初的煙囪。

We still have the original door.

我們仍然有原來的門。

Dates from around the 1820s, 200 years old.

日期約為19世紀20年代，有200年曆史。

Claudia: So, how long does the meat stay in there for?

克勞迪婭：那麼，肉在裡面停留多長時間？

Mark: Well, I hang it in there,

馬克：嗯，我把它掛在那裡。

and I let it drip initially

而我最初讓它滴水不漏

because obviously it's been in the marinade.

因為很明顯，它已經在醃製中了。

I then put on the floor, in the well,

然後我放在地板上，放在井裡。

the actual beech flour itself,

實際的櫸木麵粉本身。

and it'll burn anything up to two days.

而且它可以燒掉任何東西，最長可達2天。

The smoking is not part of the preservation,

吸菸並不是保存的一部分。

the smoking is part of the flavor.

吸菸是味道的一部分。

The smoke, like the cure, like the marinade,

煙霧，就像治癒，就像醃製。

penetrates the muscle of the meat.

滲透到肉的肌肉中。

This is not an injection of smoke,

這不是注射煙霧。

this is totally natural.

這是完全自然的。

So here, again, we have ham, not sham.

是以，在這裡，我們又有了火腿，而不是香腸。

Claudia: I really need to get this T-shirt.

克勞迪婭：我真的需要得到這件T恤。

Mark: So, this is one of our black hams.

馬克：所以，這是我們的一個黑火腿。

It's beautiful, look at it.

它很美，看看它。

Claudia: Mark also makes black off-the-bone ham and bacon.

克勞迪婭：馬克還做了黑色的脫骨火腿和培根。

Secret treasure chest.

祕密寶箱。

Mark: So, these have also been smoked.

馬克：所以，這些也已經被熏製。

Claudia: Ah. Smells good, this one, huh?

啊，聞起來不錯，這個人，嗯？

After the smoking, customers can choose

吸菸後，客戶可以選擇

to get a cooked or uncooked ham.

以獲得熟的或未熟的火腿。

The hams sold at the shop are boiled,

店裡出售的火腿是煮熟的。

but they can also be roasted in the oven.

但它們也可以在烤箱中烤制。

Oh, whoo!

哦，嗚嗚!

It has the same smell of the other room.

它具有與另一個房間相同的氣味。

Mark: As you can see, they're smaller now.

馬克：正如你所看到的，他們現在更小了。

When they're off the bone they lose,

當他們離開骨頭時，他們就會失去。

here again, about 2 to 3 kilos.

這裡也是，大約2至3公斤。

And so they cook down to around 5.7, 5.8, 6 kilos.

是以，他們被煮到了5.7、5.8、6公斤左右。

Claudia: So actually the black is only the skin,

克勞迪婭：所以實際上黑色只是皮膚。

the outside skin.

外面的皮膚。

Mark: Black is the skin, but as you can see,

馬克：黑色是皮膚，但如你所見。

the moisture gets into the meat,

水分進入肉中。

the flavor gets into meat,

味道進入肉中。

the color gets into the meat.

顏色會進入肉中。

It also becomes slightly fibrous,

它還會變得略帶纖維性。

and this is where there's immense flavor.

而這是有巨大味道的地方。

There are people who don't like crust on toast

有的人不喜歡吐司上的麵包皮

or crust on bread, but that's where the flavor is.

或麵包的表皮，但那是味道的所在。

Claudia: Black hams are a local favorite.

克勞迪婭：黑火腿是當地人的最愛。

Emmett's even held a royal warrant for 36 years.

埃米特的甚至持有36年的皇家授權書。

It means that the royal family had black ham

這意味著皇室有黑色火腿

on their menu for over three decades.

三十多年來，他們的菜單上一直都有 "小白菜"。

But, unfortunately, my humble opinion

但是，不幸的是，我的拙見是

is all you've got today.

是你今天所擁有的一切。

Ooh, wow. Nice.

哦，哇。不錯。

That's the flavor.

這就是味道。

It's so good. Yeah.

它是如此的好。是的。

It's very sweet and yeasty, you were saying.

你剛才說，它非常甜，有酵母味。

There's a good balance between sweet and salty.

甜味和鹹味之間有一個很好的平衡。

Mark: So you can see, it becomes fibrous.

馬克：所以你可以看到，它變成了纖維狀。

It's delicious there.

那裡的東西很好吃。

Claudia: There's still a little bit of jellies.

克勞迪婭：還是有一點兒果凍。

The sugar, right?

糖，對嗎？

Mark: This is the jelly. Claudia: This is the marinade.

馬克：這是果凍。克勞迪婭：這是醃製液。

Mark: There's a nice bit of jelly

馬克：有一個很好的果凍的位子

in the middle there where the bone was.

在中間有骨頭的地方。

But as you get more towards the back,

但當你越往後面走的時候。

you get more and more fat and even more flavor

你會得到越來越多的脂肪，甚至更多的味道

because of the skin area here.

因為這裡的皮膚面積。

Claudia: Yeah.

克勞迪婭：是的。

So, I have tried jellied eels, but this is jellied ham.

是以，我已經嘗試過鰻魚凍，但這是火腿凍。

Mark: It's unique to Emmett's.

馬克：這是埃米特的獨特之處。

As I've said before, it's ham, not sham.

正如我以前說過的，是火腿，而不是假的。

You'll have to open the door, 'cause it's very heavy.

你得把門打開，因為它很重。

Claudia: OK, yeah, I'll open the door for you.

克勞迪婭：好的，是的，我為你開門。

How's that?

怎麼說呢？

Mark: Yeah, the fan is on, so you have to pull it.

馬克：是的，風扇是開著的，所以你必須拉它。

Claudia: How?

克勞迪婭：如何？

Oh, OK.

哦，好的。

It's not a good start. [laughs]

這不是一個好的開始。[笑]

Mark: Well, I'll turn the fan off, and then it --

馬克：好吧，我把風扇關掉，然後它 --