Name: ディズニー映畫「ムーラン」のファッションは中國の歴史に忠実？ (ディズニー映画「ムーラン」のファッションは中国の歴史に忠実？| VOGUE JAPAN)
Uploaded: 2021-10-12T20:10:47.000Z
Duration: 10 min 16 s

this is Milan, you know her from Disney's Mulan, you know this outfit and this one.

這是米蘭，你知道她來自迪斯尼的《花木蘭》，你知道這套衣服和這套衣服。

Hi, I'm beth charleston and I teach fashion history at Parsons.

你好，我是貝絲-查爾斯頓，我在帕森斯教時尚史。

To walk us through what the movie got right and what they got wrong about these looks first, let's establish the setting.

為了讓我們瞭解電影在這些造型上的正確性和錯誤性，首先讓我們建立一個背景。

Milan takes place in northern china somewhere between 4 25 89.

米蘭發生在中國北方的某處，時間為4-2589年。

我們又是如何知道這一點的呢？

We know this because of the ballot of family on the source for Disney's animated film, which is a short poem traced to surf up for 22 5 89 during the northern wei period of the northern and southern dynasties of china mullen present.

我們之所以知道這一點，是因為迪斯尼卡通片的來源上的家庭的選票，這是一首短詩追溯到中國南北朝時期的北魏時期的衝浪了22 5 89年的穆倫現。

The ballot was passed down verbally until it was recorded in writing in the 12th century.

選票以口頭形式流傳下來，直到12世紀才有文字記錄。

The mountainous scenes lead us to believe this could be the northern part of china.

多山的景象使我們相信這可能是中國的北部地區。

There's an even bigger hit here and here I will take the main troops up to the tongue shall pass and stop Shan you before he destroys this village.

這裡有一個更大的打擊，在這裡我將帶著主力部隊上到舌必通，在他摧毀這個村莊之前阻止山你。

This doll came from a village in the tung Shao pass.

這個娃娃來自東韶山口的一個村莊。

Let's get into the looks first up Mulan's everyday look, when the movie opens, we see Milan in her everyday clothes.

讓我們先來看看木蘭的日常造型，當電影開始時，我們看到米蘭穿著她的日常服裝。

The garment she would have when she's doing her chores or working around the house.

當她在做家務或在家裡工作時，她會有的服裝。

Let's draw Mulan's everyday wear from the undergarments.

讓我們從內衣中得出木蘭的日常穿著。

Oy punctual yeah, undergarments for women during Milan's time consisted of two layers, genii middle clothes and navy inter close.

Oy punctual yeah，在米蘭時代，女性的內衣包括兩層，玄色的中衣和海軍的間衣。

The first layer would consist of two parts a pamphlet and emotion.

第一層將由兩部分組成一個小冊子和情感。

The panel, it covered the body from waist to knees.

面板，它覆蓋了從腰部到膝蓋的身體。

Or longer it tied around the waist via attached ribbons.

或者通過附帶的絲帶在腰部繫上更長的時間。

The garment could be open, seemed at the crotch in order for a woman to relieve herself discreetly or it could be closed, seemed like modern undergarments and emotion covered the upper part of the torso, both the breast in the stomach and was open in the back.

這種衣服可以是敞開的，似乎是在襠部，以便婦女謹慎地解手；也可以是封閉的，似乎像現代的內衣和情感覆蓋了軀幹的上半部分，腹部的乳房和背部是開放的。

It was shaped in a triangle or a diamond and tied around the neck and back like a halter, decorative embroidery, applicator or patchwork could be added to personalize this intimate garment, Milan's plain looking Pantsil it in a subdued color, looks historically accurate though as an intimate piece of clothing more next to the skin and not meant for public viewing.

它的形狀是三角形或菱形，像吊帶一樣系在脖子上和背上，可以添加裝飾性的刺繡、塗抹或拼接，使這件私密的衣服個性化，米蘭的樸素的外觀Pantsil它的顏色很低調，雖然作為一件私密的衣服更貼近皮膚，不適合公開觀看，但看起來符合歷史。

She might have had more leeway to wear bright colors.

她可能有更多的餘地來穿鮮豔的顏色。

The second layer of clothing called genii or middle clothing would consist of an under jacket and possibly an under skirt.

第二層衣服被稱為玄衣或中衣，包括一件下衣和可能的下裙。

These were usually left playing and the collar and sleeves of the second layer of clothing would be visible, adding color and interest to the ensemble.

這些通常都是留著玩的，第二層衣服的領子和袖子會顯露出來，為這套衣服增添色彩和趣味。

The outer skirt might be shorter than the under skirt.

For the same reason the under jacket would have been a symmetrical closing left over, right with side tie closures or small buttons to secure it.

出於同樣的原因，下身的外套應該是一個對稱的收口，左邊是右面的領帶扣或小鈕釦來固定它。

The under skirt would tie around the waist, the way that Milan's upper chest is visible in this outfit would not be considered proper since it showed too much skin.

裙子下襬會系在腰間，米蘭的上胸在這套衣服中可見的方式不會被認為是合適的，因為它顯示了太多的皮膚。

Also, her under jacket cuffs are not visible.

另外，她的外套下面的袖口是看不到的。

Moving on to the third layer, ruth chin is an ensemble of traditional chinese attire once worn by both sexes, but by Milan's time was worn only by women.

接下來是第三層，魯迅是中國傳統服飾的一種組合，曾經男女都穿，但到了米蘭時代，只有女性才穿。

It consisted of a blouse rue and a wrap around skirt.

它由一件上衣蕓薹和一條環繞的裙子組成。

The chin on is shown wearing a wide sash and blue that covers the point where the blouses tucked into the waist of the skirt.

圖中的下巴戴著寬大的腰帶和藍色，覆蓋了上衣塞進裙子腰部的位置。

These are her everyday clothes and more clothes in which she needs to be able to move easily.

這些是她的日常服裝，更多的是她需要能夠輕鬆行動的衣服。

I'm here dyes used for coloring yarns and lengths of textile were derived from natural sources indigenous to the region and also available via silk road trade.

我這裡用於給紗線和長短織物著色的染料來自該地區的天然資源，也可以通過絲綢之路貿易獲得。

Various shades of brown and rust were common amongst laborers and farmers because they effectively hit dirt and wear color yellow derived from safflower would be reserved for the royal household in later years in china down to the shoes since she is doing chores such as walking outside to bring her father t and feeding the chickens.

各種棕色和鐵鏽色在工人和農民中很常見，因為他們有效地打到了泥土上，而從紅花中提取的黃色將被保留給皇家家庭，在後來的中國，因為她正在做雜事，如走到外面給她父親帶T和餵雞。

Hard shoes would have been somewhat rough.

Her everyday shoes would have leather soles and wool uppers for the harsh winters in northern china.

她的日常鞋子有皮鞋底和羊毛鞋面，以應對中國北方的嚴冬。

Shoes would be padded with additional layers of world that would be held in place by quilting quilting also provided minimal decoration.

鞋子會有額外的層墊，通過絎縫絎縫來固定的世界也提供了最小的裝飾。

Shoes would be symmetrical with now designated left or right side.

鞋子將是對稱的，現在指定了左邊或右邊。

Even today, when specific shoes for the left and right foot are the norm in china ethnic groups produce symmetrical shoes.

即使在今天，在中國，當特定的左腳和右腳的鞋子成為標準時，各民族也會生產對稱的鞋子。

This simplifies the shoemaking process and also reduces the difference in abrasion between the two sides.

這簡化了製鞋過程，也減少了兩邊的磨損差異。

Now the hair, a woman's hair was a point of pride for herself and her family, it was grown long and put up in a variety of styles.

現在，頭髮，一個女人的頭髮是她自己和她的家人的驕傲，它被留得很長，並以各種風格擺放。

Overall, Milan's everyday outfit is somewhat accurate.

總的來說，米蘭的日常裝束是有些準確的。

So here's what Milan's everyday where would have looked like compared to the movie, Let's move on to Milan's matchmaker outfit during this time period, it was very important for your family to marry.

是以，與電影相比，米蘭的日常是什麼樣子的呢？讓我們繼續說說米蘭的媒人裝，在這個時期，結婚對你的家庭來說是非常重要的。

Well, obedience work fast paced tiny you'll bring, which is why Milan's matchmaking outfit, which she also wears while singing, reflection is so elaborate.

好吧，服從工作快節奏的微小你會帶來，這就是為什麼米蘭的相親裝，她在唱歌時也會穿，反映是如此的精緻。

Let's take a look at this outfit from the undergarments.

讓我們從內衣的角度來看看這套衣服。

Again, her undergarments would have consisted of emotion and pamphlets perhaps made a finer material such as silk.

同樣，她的內衣會由情感和小冊子組成，也許是由絲綢等更精細的材料製成。

Now the middle close, here we see an image from a han era woman wearing a reg motion with the white collar of an under robe.

現在，中間關閉，在這裡我們看到的是一個漢代婦女的影像，她穿著雷鋒運動的白領下袍。

This outfit is a more elaborate version of Russian with trailing or broad sleeves that cover Milan's hands.

這套服裝是俄羅斯人的一個更精緻的版本，有拖曳或寬大的袖子，遮住了米蘭的雙手。

These are called Guang xu, the idea of wearing two pieces of clothing as opposed to one main garment like a robe appealed to the chinese idea of harmony and unity and is symbolic of the relationship of order between heaven and earth.

這些衣服被稱為 "光緒"，穿兩件衣服而不是像長袍那樣穿一件主要的衣服的想法吸引了中國人的和諧和統一的想法，並象徵著天與地之間的秩序關係。

Since it is a somewhat small piece of fabric, Mulan shaw might be silk.

由於它是一塊有點小的布料，木蘭蕭可能是絲綢。

The silk industry had grown far beyond household production to organize factories and subsidized mulberry farming silkworms, the source of all natural silk depend on mulberries for their diet.

絲綢業的發展已經遠遠超出了家庭生產的範圍，組織工廠和補貼種桑養蠶，所有天然絲綢的來源都依賴桑葚為食。

Next the shoes we do not see Milan shoes in this ensemble as Arnhem is so long, but if we did, they would be handmade.

接下來是鞋子，我們在這套組合中沒有看到米蘭鞋，因為阿納姆太長了，但如果我們看到了，它們就會是手工製作的。

The shoes of this outfit would have silk uppers instead of hemp or wool melon.

這套裝備的鞋子將採用絲綢鞋面，而不是麻或羊毛瓜子。

Might also wear a shoe called the Chouteau lou, which is more of a slipper type shoe with an upturned toe.

可能也會穿一種叫Chouteau lou的鞋子，這更像是一種拖鞋類型的鞋子，腳趾上翹。

Women wore these shoes with long gowns so that they would not trip over there hem or have to hold it.

婦女在穿長袍時穿這種鞋，這樣她們就不會被下襬絆倒或不得不扶著它。

In addition to jade being thought of as a symbol of beauty and chinese culture.

除了玉石被認為是美麗和中國文化的象徵之外。

It also signifies goodness preciousness and purity.

Milan's family would not have been able to afford this necklace, the matching size and color of the beads, indicative of copious amounts of stone editing and shaping would have made this necklace cost prohibitive for a farming family.

米蘭的家庭不可能買得起這條項鍊，珠子的大小和顏色的匹配，表明大量的石頭編輯和塑造，會使這條項鍊的成本對一個農業家庭來說過高。

The necklace seen here is from the tomb of far wrong.

這裡看到的項鍊是來自遠錯的墳墓。

A magistrate's wife from northern china who lived circa 500 a.

一個來自中國北方的地方官的妻子，大約生活在500年左右。

It consists of gold pieces crystals and 42 pearls, but the green beads are made from glass.

它由金片水晶和42顆珍珠組成，但綠色的珠子是由玻璃製成。

Next the hair, the hair ornament that Milan wears is also known as Zanna and would have been made of silk thread wire and copied from a style worn by women at court.

接下來是頭髮，米蘭佩戴的髮飾也被稱為Zanna，應該是用絲線絲線製成的，是仿照宮廷婦女佩戴的樣式。

It was made from silver or gilded metal with kingfisher feathers and a semiprecious stone in the middle.

它是用銀或鍍金的金屬製成的，中間有翠鳥的羽毛和一塊半寶石。

Milan's hair styled in a simple bun wrapped with fabric and accentuated with a comb.

米蘭的頭髮造型是一個簡單的髮髻，用織物包裹，並用梳子加以強調。

A more elaborate double bun worn side to side or front to back was also popular at the time when Nolan leaves the comb on her parents bed table before leaving for the army, it is slightly different from the one her mother fixes to her hair.

當時還流行一種更精緻的雙髻，從側面或從前到後戴著，諾蘭在去軍隊之前把梳子放在她父母的床頭，這與她母親給她的頭髮固定的梳子略有不同。

Lastly, the makeup powder used to whiten.

The complexion was made by grinding rice into a fine flour consistency.

膚色是通過將大米磨成細麵粉的方式製成的。

Rouge to color the lips is believed to have been made from the extracted juice of leaves from red and blue flowers.

胭脂水粉給嘴脣上色，據說是用紅色和藍色花朵的葉子提取的汁液製成的。

Animal fat was then added until the desired consistency was achieved, eyebrows which the chinese believed were linked to a woman's fate or a focal point of the face.

然後加入動物脂肪，直到達到所需的濃度。中國人認為，眉毛與女人的命運或臉部的一個焦點有關。

They were darkened or reshaped using soot from burnt willow branches.

它們被塗黑或用燒燬的柳樹枝的煙塵重新塑造。

For Milan's matchmaker outfit, the clothing is pretty accurate.

對於米蘭的媒人裝，服裝是相當準確的。

So here's what Mulan's matchmaker outfit would have looked like compared to the movie.

是以，這裡是花木蘭的媒人裝與電影相比會是什麼樣子。

The Disney took liberties with the accuracy of Milan's outfits.

迪斯尼對米蘭的服裝的準確性進行了自由發揮。

The theme of empowerment still rings true and here's what Mulan's outfits would have looked like if she had lived in history.

賦予權力的主題仍然是真實的，下面是花木蘭的服裝，如果她生活在歷史上，會是什麼樣子。